If the water is getting all the way through the 6 inches of concrete and you just fill the surface crack, doesn’t that mean that water is still permeating nearly 6 inches of concrete and then sitting there? Seems like the only solution is to create a seal on the exterior of the wall. If the sealant is thin enough to go all the way through the concrete, won’t it just ooze into the dirt and use up your tube? Im thinking about digging around my foundation. My crack is leaking behind a newly installed shower in the basement. I have muddy water oozing out the shower seems.
If the fracture is wide enough to accept material the injection will travel all the way through the wall. If there’s no void on the other side of the wall the soil will stop the material. However, the most effective waterproof repair is to excavate and seal from the outside. Injection is an easier less invasive option. If you’re willing to dig, we’d absolutely recommend that.
It will be up to your personal preference. It's common to leave the paste and ports in place (when selling the house, it's good evidence the wall was repaired). But after material is fully cured (wait 48 hours just to be safe), the paste and ports serve no further purpose. The paste can be chipped off and ports fully removed. Or you can saw off the port barrels flush with the wall and leave the paste (if you're putting up drywall for example).
You can absolutely use soapy water to achieve a similar result. Just make sure to clean and dry the surface after everything is cured to avoid a little mildew/mold. Surface slick is a chemical agent that eliminates that issue. There's neither soap nor water in it.
So, I got estimates to have this done on my basement wall. The last guy said he would drill hoke to place metal parts & screw them in. Another company mentioned the same procedure you described w/no drilling. Why such a difference in technique for a hairline crack? The guy who said he would use metal ports said he would do it off to the side of the crack. Is drilling holes for the ports a bad idea? He also said no epoxy would be needed on the crack.
Both contractors are suggesting an effective repair. Drilling in order to intersect the crack in the middle of the wall is common if the contractor has invested in the equipment required for high-pressure injection. The material pumped in will flow toward the soil and toward the inside of the basement simultaneously. Overflow foam will be scraped off on the interior wall surface. Low pressure injection with surface mount ports and surface seal epoxy paste is just as effective as long as the contractor is using a thin enough material to penetrate the wall all the way out to the soil. For example, our #900 is too thick in viscosity to penetrate a fracture less than 1/16". A hairline crack will require a much thinner material like our #700. Also, the term hairline can be misleading - about 1/64" is the tightest crack an extra low viscosity resin can penetrate. I would suggest you go with the contractor that offers a reasonable price and also enjoys a reputation for quality work.
@@cprproductsinc Thank you for your excellent explanation. I guess my concern w/the drilling is that I will have to repair the holes left after the ports are removed, w/some sort of paintable vinyl caulk. Either way, I will have to paint over the repair. I have a poured walls that look like brick painted in an off white color. The crack is pretty thin, but exact measurement I am not sure of. Both repair guys said the filler will go all the way to the outside wall. First estimate w/the plastic ports & epoxy was $600. The drilled ports was $750 for one wall or $1000 for 2 walls, one of which does not leak. Both are reputable from what I have researched as least for repairs like this. As a single woman, I have to do my homework.
@@barbs1298 Glad to help. The stamped concrete may complicate the job for either approach, but those prices sound fair, and either contractor should be able to give you a permanent repair with a warranty. Drilled holes should be quick for the contractor to patch upon finishing. Conversely, a surface seal epoxy paste should be non-structural; curing fast but brittle. It should be easy to chip off (don't grind it off - nasty particles) You should wait 24 to 48 to remove the paste and ports, then paint.
