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@@FastMonty i have a question man i had my motor rebuild and drop in my car but mi haven’t started it since rebuild it’s been sitting for about two years never been started since rebuild there’s no oil or anything in it. Should i do a thing specifically beside adding the oil and all? I’m also having triple installing the distributor any help would be great thanks i have the 326 also
@@josecollazos6 Good question... first and foremost, you need to see if rust has started to form inside the engine. I assume you have stock iron heads, so pull the valve covers and see if there's around the rockers, etc... if there isn't any, add oil to each head, covering all of the rockers. Then getting a priming rod, like I have for the "first Fire" episode. What issues are you having with the distributor?
@@FastMonty thank you for the reply . I’ll check for rust but I’m sure there isn’t any but if there is what can i do for the rust is there anything i can pour in it ? Also when i going to prime the engine so i just pour a qt of oil through where i normally pour the oil to fill it up ? I can’t get the distributor to go in lol or align been a pain in the butt
@@josecollazos6 Honestly, I'm not sure if there's a product out there to help with internal rust. The oil goes in through the hole in the valve cover. So, while you have them off, just pour a couple quarts over each head. OR, as many quarts as your engine needs. The distributor should just drop in. Make sure it's lining up with oil pump shaft, which you may need to rotate a bit with a screw driver. Here's my first fire video, where I install the distributor again... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WFv3ln8vgt8.html
Hello, I see you are using some kind of roller bearing and shim between the Distributor gear and shaft. Is this bearing necessary for the polymer gear and where would I find one? I am building my first roller cam engine with a Pertronix Dist. Could you elaborate a little more on this bearing and are any modifications needed, my Dist. only has a metal shim ( washer ) above the gear. Thank You, Great advice !
Hey Bryan, good question... that bearing and shim is a part of the DUI distributor design. Since you're going the Roller Cam route, the most important change is adding a bearing on the front of the cam. Check out this video, if you haven't already. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jKpk64KWqag.htmlsi=jHy9b9FGx-KguvjR Have fun!
Hey man I appreciate your video's but I have a question for you ok on the distributor I noticed that you placed the fireing order with #1 on the front side ok on my tempest dose that #1 stay on the front or back it's 72 Pontiac 350 I looked it up and it was on the back right side am I wrong with this placement.? I'm Paul and thanks in advance much appreciated and needed..
Good question Paul... it doesn't matter where it is. My issue was the wire length from Number 8, which dictated where #8 should go. Hence, that's where number 1 ended up. Hope that makes sense.
Monty, thank you for all this information you put on here. Ive been taking classes at the university of youtube for sometime and your in my top 5 instructors... do you have merch to sell?
Hey I noticed your dizzy has no vacuum, Ive beenoldI need a vacuum dizz, mine doesnt Im not going to race it but what was your reason not to have vacuum, Im in quandry now to change or not to change. My engine is like your bored 460 aluminum heads, Im ging with 3/2s carb which has turned into a project learning alot though. Thanks
Welp, the biggest reason is it won't fit with my new AN Rear Head Water hoses. But, that said, it's only used for emissions, at idle. So, it's not mandatory to use one. Hope that helps.
@@FastMonty Well yes it does I've had some GTO gurus stating vacuum is needed for a street driver you really dont need vacuum if your running WOT constantly you will get better MPG with vacuum and a few other pluses too. Just wanted your opinion I respect it and your running yours about the same as mine except Im going the tri power route. What a headache it is.
@@frekkledipped Yeah Maybe. Might depend on your cam too... as mine is fine driving around town. Eventually I'd like to switch to an electronic ignition system with timing control, which wouldn't need a vacuum advance. Maybe give that a shot, if you're in the point of your project. Yeah, Tri-Power... I've seen a couple FiTech Tri-Power set ups which look amazing. Good luck!
Hey quick question I'm having clearance issues with the heater hose fitting. How did you install that threaded 90⁰ fitting? Did you use a tap and diy set to thread that in? And where can I get that fitting as well.
Good question... One, the heads are from Edelbrock, which are already tapped with 3/4 NPT threads. If you have stock heads, I'd just use the standard heater hose nipple, with the built in restrictors. (My original AN hoses proved to have TOO much flow. I did a video on the heater hose myth, if you want to see it... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9ou2GKZFf3Q.html) Then T off with standard heater hose. If you have threaded holes, I took one of the 90's out, and replaced it with a straight AN fitting. Hope that helps.
Ha! Very funny, Ray... I don't recall showing that detail, but I did explain where Number 1 would be, based on the location of the rotor. The hardest part is organizing the wires, if your wires are already cut to length. For example, my number 8 wire is super short, so it has to be somewhat close to that side of the motor. That'll then determine where the other wires go. In my case number one is also on the passenger side. Where I see your point, In the video I just dropped the distributor in and the rotor was pointing towards the driver side. Thanks for the call out! see ya!
@@nachomax1639 I've read the same... funny thing is, no one says why. But, in my latest "First Fire" video, that's exactly where I ended up. Purely because of my plug wire set, it's the only way I could arrange the wires so they'd all comfortably fit. Thanks for the comment!
I hear you on the plug arrangement. Also if running HEI with vacuum advance, you might be limited on the rotation for advance/retard if the advance canister is set on the driver's side. Keep up the great videos. Very informative.
I'm bought the version with Vacuum advance (517211BK) But, I recently removed the vacuum advance... so the mechanical only would work too. Hope that helps!
@@sobrooklyn-do5gs Awesome! Thanks for your service! If you have time, I should be at the Quarantine Cruise in Huntington Beach, next Sunday. If I don't make it, there are a ton of inspirational rides there... I did a video on the cruise a couple months ago. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uJfv1ZaH6As.html
Greetings from Russia, Monty! I need such quality hei distributor for my 78 TRANS AM, but actually can’t find it in eBay or American stores in google. Can you help me? I found only China hei for 80-150$! Thank you!
Wow, welcome to the channel! I agree, I wouldn't trust the cheap ones either. Not sure I can help, but try searching for the major brands, Pertronix, MSD, and Performance Distributors (aka Davis Unified Ignition) Good luck!
Thanks, brother. Great question. Two reasons for going with a Composite Distributor gear. One, it'll work with any type of camshaft, which makes it dummy proof. Two, it'll last longer than a Bronze gear. That said, if you're going with a bronze gear, because they do cost less, you have to verify it's compatible with your Cam Material. If it's used on the wrong material, the bronze gear won't last long. Thanks again for the comment!
@@FastMonty i'm still on flat tappet and looking at a roller update, been busy pricing it all up, not just cam & lifter, but all the other associated bits as well, no cheap lol
I have a 400 ram air IV. i just ordered the same distributor you have just waiting for it to ship.. what else do i need. Car has stock wiring so 7 volts... will i need a 12 volt wire convertion kit to make it work? Im such noob sorry for all the questions.
Nice... you'll need a 12V supply, and update that wire to 10 gauge. It's been a while for me, so let me know if you need help after you get it, I'll have to dig into my archives... ha, ha...
Always love your videos, Monty! Quick question, is the distributor clamp bolt hole blind or is it a through bolt? I've been dealing with this very irritating oil seepage in the distributor area. It's nothing severe, just dampens the porous area a bit but it's annoying. I can draw my finger along the entire ridge and along the edge of the valley pan and my finger tip remains dry so I don't think it's coming from the valley pan. I also noticed every time I've ever pulled my distributor, the clamp bolt's threads are wet with oil, which is why I'm asking if that hole is blind or if it leads inside the motor where it's exposed to oil. I guess it could just be because the leak itself is wicking down into the bolt threads but I'm not sure. Just want to know because then the solution is that I just need thread sealant. I have my distributor double gasketed with Butler Performance gaskets and have it clamped down pretty damn tight and I'm still getting this seepage. Could it be the oil valley plug next to the distributor? Really drawing a blank here.
@@FastMonty Video works now! It was extremely helpful. Okay, I'll try to switch to one gasket. I know it's not because I'm bottomed out on the oil pump drive, that rarely happens with Ponchos plus I have positive up and down play indicating clearance. I was afraid of it being the valley pan because I already labored pulling it last November to replace the gasket for the heck of it (even tore it apart at the welds to clean it the RIGHT way)... don't want to have to go through that again. So I can actually just clean it back there and the slather some RTV along the edge with my finger? Didn't know that was an option. Makes sense, it's a low pressure area. And ill definitely make sure to check the valve covers. I went through hell recently trying to get them to seal, and had the most trouble COINCIDENTALLY in the same area of the valve cover you mentioned. I ended up straightening out the dimpled areas from years of overtightening, AND am utilizing load spreaders... I assumed they weren't leaking anymore since I haven't seen any outward signs of leaks since then, but maybe I need to pay attention to that same spot that was leaking before to see if it's still giving me flack. Thanks for the video! It was very helpful.
@@robertspadaro4329 No worries... first time I've answered a question with a video. :) A couple things.. . One, are you saying your distributor is bottomed out AND you have clearance? I'm a little confused with that statement. IF you truly have no clearance, you need to use a Shim and a gasket. Not two gaskets. Yes, to the RTV with your finger. But, I'm now leaning towards your valve cover, since you say that's a trouble spot. That could be it. Good luck, and let me know how it goes!
Good question Daniel... I made it. Here's the video all about it. Let me know if you have any questions. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DWvVkrGQDsw.html
They're actually from BOP Engineering. Same price. A bargain, considering the damage prevented by using a steel gear. Again, this is only to be used with a new Forged Cam. Stock cams do not need this gear.
