Robert-my guess is that you have a trapped air pocket in the cooling system. The bleeder screw on top of upper radiator hose inlet is the key-you squeeze the upper hose and burp the air out while running and bleeder screw open slightly. Raising the front end slightly also helps whereas the bleeder screw is the highest point of the cooling system. Hope that helps. Dp
It could just be a coolant system bleeding issue. If there is any air in the system, it will run hot. It took me 3-4 tries to get it straight. It helps to raise the front of the vehicle when opening the bleeder.
I'm dealing with same issue. Got all parts from ECS tuning but took it to the shop that was doing my clutch since they were already doing the work. Glad I took it to them because it's overheating. First thing they said was could be a faulty sensor. I'm going to attempt to bleed but they told me they power bled and tested. Maybe I just need a sensor
Quick update. Fans are kicking in now at the 3/4 mark on the gauge. Suspect it's a faulty temp gauge sensor and not actually overheating. Heat is also working now. Guess I just needed to take a for a drive. Will try to replace the sensor and keep everyone posted.
Mijo B. Thanks I’ve just changed the thermostat could it be the engine temperature sensor? Mine is kicking in just on the red. I’m not convinced it’s right as the engine doesn’t seem that hot. I’ve only one fan non AC car.
How did you deduce that the temperature sender is bad? I have the same problem and my IR thermometer is reading 200 degrees F at the location where the temperature sender is. The sender reads correctly when the car is running at highway speeds, though. I wonder if the temperature-resistance slope is correct at lower temps but incorrect at higher temps. I suppose I'll replace the temperature sender to see if anything changes.
This was your issue? Mines doing the same. I’m leaning to corroded ground or faulty sensor since the gauge jumps when I turn on headlights or kick hvac on high….
I have the same issue on mine. Replaced every piece of the cooling system. When I first got the car it had no thermostat and it ran cool. I live in colder climate so had to have thermostat. I've had mine worked on by the "experts" the guy wants me to bring it back. But the only thing he fixed was the lump in my back pocket. Maybe I'll try the Wahler ?
Kinda late, but if anyone else is here looking for a solution here’s mine. Bleeding these cars is a little more difficult than other cars, my car ran at 1/4 to 1/2 temp while driving and after a spirited session of driving my car for weeks would run constantly at 3/4, bled the cooling system and refreshed the thermostat as I’d never changed and back to normal.
@@RobertG993 oh yeah of course thermo ! This car has perfect paint and almost perfect engine just has a bunch of old old parts that have never been changed. Building a show car is my vibe
I had the same problem ended up having to fill the coolant through the top coolant hose I cut the old hose in half and started filling the engine from the top side and everything is working fine now
i live in Venezuela and had to eliminate the thermostat because of the same issue you have,but then you have to buy a gimmyck thats made by Vertex auto in Maimi phone 305-442-2727,wich plugs into the center hole of the water pump and your problem should be solved
yes, the car isn't actually overheating. The sensor for the temperature gauge is faulty. Fans kick in at perceived higher temp but the engine is actually not reaching as hot.
Gents, just a short input for my 944 Typ 1 (up to 1985 mid) a) the thermostat in the waterpump has to be a 83°C (Brand WAHLER) b) the thermo switch (which has 2 connections!) has 87°C / 92°C (Brand BEHR) c) the coolant liquid has to be a 40% coolant and 60% water mixture. This protects approx. winter freez of minus 20°C. A ready-2-use which is also available is approx. minus 37°C protection... in case you drive in winter... but I would not recommend a ready to uuuzse ready mixture, because the most important point to know is that water has a higher heat capacity as the coolant. Means if possible, 40/60 mixture is good. But I only speak for road purpose, not racing! If you can pay it, than change every year and avoid corrosion of coolant system. d) bleeding of coolant system is very important. e) if you have a look to the front of your car, the place where air has to be enter must be free and not covered partly by your front license plate. f) check the cap of the coolant reservoir, or just simply buy a new one which is the right one for your system... there are at least 2 different
