Questions About This Product or the Repair Being Performed? Email Rich@agatools.com or call us at 760-738-4084 For more information, visit www.agatools.com
I'm just an average DIYer and do not own a Porsche. That said, I'm very impressed at how you repair this component so that it's better than original and much less expensive than replacing it.
I repair using the factory pipes. Heat up, remove, peg the pipe using stainless steel hex head bolts. Pipe is now secured with jb weld and a bolt. A lot of the Porsche club events won't allow the 911 turbos on the track unless they've been pegged because the coolant pipe can suddenly burst and throw coolant at the tires. Also need to replace the plastic coolant pipes with metal when you drop the engine for this repair.
IF I were in California, I sure would bring my cars there for repair. What a Professional person, clear and concise. Thanks for the great video. Too bad this is a 'know' issue and Porsche allows it to continue happening??????
Hi Martin, In regard to a 1999 996 M96 / 3.4 .Could you tell me how many coolant hoses this model actually has...??.2nd question.What is you opinion on changing the "important" hoses that come off the water pump that are routed to the block and heads in high quality silicone (Samco,etc).When I speak of "important"ones I'm referring to those hoses that experience the greatest pressure in the pump and housing area...! Thanks.....great video!
What a great video, excellent. Can you please tell me if you know of any shops that could do this repair in the Toronto Canada area. You are located a bit far from my local. Thanks for posting this.
Michael, we do not know of anyone else who does this repair. If you are interested, we do the repair ourselves here. Please give Richard a call at 760-738-4084 and he can go over the details of this.
nice repair. but I would drill an 1/8 inch hole through the housing and tube and fit a brass or alloy rivet just to be sure it didn't come out again.a new engine is £ 20,000 !!!! nothing beats a mechanical fixing.
I get that knurling the pipes and adding jb weld for adhesion is superior to the original Metzger design, but why not just tig weld? It doesn't make any sense to me. TIG weld it exactly as you would intercooler piping or an aluminum radiator, especially after going through all the trouble of dropping the entire engine. It's the most permanent and affordable solution by far.
I would prefer TIG welding as well... but the way they remove the pipes and add knurling to the pipes with the JB weld is superior to the Porsche original design.
Years ago I had an electric fan chew a hole in a brand new aluminum radiator. The aluminum was so thin it welding made it even worse. I pried the row open with a screwdriver, packed it full of JB weld and crimped it shut with a pair of channelocks. 21 years later and tens of thousands of miles, that radiator has never leaked once. If it works, it works. TIG welding this part in particular would be difficult, though doable, because of the dissimilar thickness of the parts being welded together. You'd need a lot of heat to penetrate the housing, which could blow right through the thin tube of the water neck. The epoxy repair, which also has a mechanical attachment component with the knurling, is a fool-proof repair.
The 997.2's don't have welded pipes - it looks like Porsche just improved the epoxy or the application method at the factory, as they are not affected by this issue (though I did read a comment somewhere about one of the .2 RS models having the problem). This is not a high pressure system, so what you're seeing in the video here is a process that is improved over the factory's epoxy-only method. IMO this repair is going to last the life of the engine. I've read there are risks with welding, particularly in possibly compromising the factory pipes during the welding process (not an expert here, just read this as a precaution on Rennlist etc).
