Good overview of the obvious differences between base and S model, but … There are some additional considerations that were not covered here: - the 3.2L engine has a history of more problems, incl. bore-scoring and IMS weakness - the 6 speed gearbox has more problems than 5-speed - cost to maintain S are higher - fuel consumption on S is higher - S attracts a different type of drivers/ previous owners Most important factor imho when buying a 986 is the state, maintenance records and history of the car. Much more than anything else this will determine your joy, upcoming bills for costly maintenance/repairs, and its resell value. ps: I enjoy my 986 2.5L since 1999 and it will continue to do so for many years to come ;-)
Bore scoring happens to literally every vehicle that uses multiple different materials when making the engine and components. A prime example; you have an iron block and heads but run alloy pistons, when people don't let their car warm up before driving the heat within the engine will cause the alloy pistons to expand well before the iron block and heads get a decent heat signature, and because those pistons have expanded and the block hasn't, the scoring starts there. Now that's when you take preventative measures like warming up the car. Now think about how much of the rich population with no mechanical knowledge doesn't do this while owning Porsches and other exotic cars
S, everything is beefier. Many just think engine, there's so much more in an S besides HP and TQ. Brakes, Drivetrain, bearings and bearing carriers, cooling size capacity, hose and junction diameter, additional center radiator, suspensions. larger brakes and rotors etc. By the dollar you'll get so much more for the S for performance. You can get the NON-S purely for driving if you don't plan to upgrade anything. If you ever plan to upgrade anything at all, the S is the way to go.
Also worth noting the base makes for a better daily and most who want to spent on performance might be more inclined to make the jump to a 996. But the base Better fuel economy, lighter, 5 speed box, cheaper maintenance, i.e. smaller brakes and generally cheaper parts where parts differ and the suspension is more suited for comfortable driving. I went from a 2004 986 2.7 to a 2004 996 C4S 3.6 and as much as I love the C4S, I'd take the 986 base any day if I had to daily it and there's a lot to be said for that.
Good video man and I enjoyed learning about the main differences between the base models and the S. I own the 2.7 base model and very happy with it. It seems to have ample power for me to put a smile on my face and a delightful little car all round. Finding an S for the right money and condition is no easy task, but I’m happy enough 😀 what a fantastic little sports car for the money!
Great overview, this video helped me a lot when I decided to my Boxster last year. THANK YOU BRIAN. These cars are going up in value like crazy. The S definitely goes up even faster and difference is now about 3-5K+ in price point between a base and an S, just in the last year alone, the prices have gone up at least 20%. Like always, what's better depends on what the owners want for their money. If you just like to just cruise around, bring every little issue to the mechanic or tinker just a little, have a nice affordable Porsche convertible that's dependable, yes a base model is for you. More performance minded, yet feel like getting their money's worth and if you like to tinker or actually a mechanic, a S is worth the difference in price. The bigger brakes, radiator, bigger engine, 6 speed is definitely worth it. With just minor bolt on upgrade costing less than 1500, the performance of an S is at the 996 level at around almost 300hp. I'm working on a turbo for the 3.2 to get it up to 911 turbo performance level and a widebody kit (yea nothings stays stock in my cars, and I've had 79 of them...LOL) These cars handle better than 911's. But I'm building this to be the keeper till I can't drive anymore and to pass on to my son(who also got the car bug) and one of a kind custom build.
It's hard because I hear these cars going for around 10k to 15k a year ago, now they are 15k to 25k, with 15k being 1997 and 25k being 2003 refresh. Anything cheaper has high millage and is not worth the repair costs given what can go wrong.
I love my 99 base 2.5L with 18" factory twist rims and tiptronic trany......I just do some spirited driving around town and it does exactly what I need it too do.
Just purchased a 2002 boxster s- looked at base models as well and ended up spending more on the s- had them replace the IMS and rear seal along with new tires. Took me 4 weeks to find one in great condition with low miles. I agree with everyone else, price difference was 6000 to 8000. Maybe a northeast thing
2.5 or 2.7 earlier models have the double row IMS bearings which have a lower failure rate compared to the S. Piece of mind...Unless you find an S that has been addressed with aftermarket IMS.
Well while that's true, early Boxster S models build in 2000 do have an double row ims bearing as well. While all Boxster models S or non S after 2001 got only the single row ims bearing equipped from the factory. The also use a different style of crankshaft and intermediate shaft. So the type of ims bearing has nothing to do with the engine size of the car, but much more with the year of manufacturing from the car. Of course I may be wrong for the cars imported to the US (specs for us cars where different in some aspects), but at least here in Germany that's the way the left the factory.
The base 2.5 is the best for many reasons.its got short close gears not tall far apart gears like all other boxters.also cable accellerator instead of electric much better feal.the difference is huge.the 2.5 is the most fun by far
My number one reason I went for the S model was the better brakes from the 996. You really feel the difference between the non S and S brakes. But I agree with you, that the 2.5L engine is the engine where you have to really work those gears. Such a raw and mechanical feel when you drive it!
Mr Porsche, I’ve been seeing your comments all around Boxster videos and they are the main reason I am now favoring a 2.5L vs the S models in my search. I wanted to ask some more details about this. Have you driven the S, and does the 6th gear make up for the tall gears in all other versions? I wish there was a good comparison between the 2.5L and all other versions on YT. The visceral feel of mechanical engineering is not something anyone talks about and I want to learn more. What kind of difference does a cable accelerator make vs an electric one? I know it’s probably hard to describe but I would appreciate it anything else you can tell me. Thank you for spreading the good word out there on YT!
Unless you specifically want the 'original' Boxster, the 2.5, the purchase cost difference between a 2.5/2.7 or the S is negligible in my opinion as its the running costs that will be the biggest factor in ownership cost in the long run unless you're lucky. Im happy with my 2.5, it's fast enough for me and with a few suspension tweaks handles well, and a big strongpoint for me is the double row IMS bearing that's far less likely to fail (touch wood!).
Double race IMS bearing stresses the timing chain, this is why they didn’t revert to it once the single race bearing. The single race takes torque away from the chain and adds it to the bearing. The bearing is a relatively simple long term replacement part, change with clutch. The double race bearing timing chain replacement is an engine out strip down replacement. Far more expensive due to the extra labour cost. Timing chain tension should be evident from a rattle on start up, not the standard 2 second rattle but a constant rattle which quietens when the engine is warmed up. The timing chains should be changed around every 80,000 miles. Engine out and strip down vs clutch out and IMS out. The single race bearings get the flak but the dual race bearings are uneconomical long term. A slack timing chain will firstly potentially jump, latterly it will result in a similar engine failure to the single race bearing hence a number of dual race IMS bearing failures are reported. Generally it’s not an IMS failure but a timing chain failure.
@@eddherring4972 I just bought a 2001 986 2.7 litre boxster, it has 81k miles. do you know when i'd need an engine rebuild and would you suggest taking it to a workshop and getting a better IMS bearing? i didnt do my homework lol
Kay K first, don’t panic if you don’t have a timing chain rattle your fine. Boxsters always have a little rattle for about 2 seconds just on start up so take that into consideration. The timing chain rattle is continuous and constant and you would recognise it for sure, (it sounds like a chain rattling continuously,) not like a lazy tappet where that happens on the beat of the engine. At 80,000 miles you are around the area you should start to think about getting it done. Do check through all of your service history and additional receipts, you never know it may already have been done. Worst case scenario is you know why the vehicle was sold. Unless the car has got timing chain rattle you should drive it and enjoy it. Talk to a Porsche specialist, they are human, not just money grabbing robots. If you do need the timing chains doing then unfortunately it’s an engine strip down to get to them, chances are that your twin race bearing is fine. The thing that really costs is the labour so if you have the capability of doing anything yourself then you can reduce that. Even using a friend’s lift to remove the engine will reduce the cost. Actions: 1) Listen for the constant scraping/rattling of the timing chains (ignore first couple of seconds) 2) Speak to your Porsche specialist and have them do a health check on the vehicle, that would be your best advice. 3) check the service history and date check stamps and invoices. Understand the history, service intervals, work that was done, when it was done and why it was done. Also check the MOT history vs receipts especially failures (if any), check for any lapses in MOT and reasons for lapses, look for receipts which explain how the vehicle passed its MOT after a lapsed period. Check the mileage between MOTs to see what the history is like, has the vehicle had regular use or has it been standing for a long time? (A daily driver will be better than a garage queen). 4) Take it from there but above all unless you know there is something wrong drive and enjoy the Boxster experience. Don’t just have it sitting that’s not good for it.
I had a 1999 2.5 and a 987 2005 S boxster. The 2-5 is too slow. The 3.2 had an engine problem, Pistons. Porsche don‘t sell 3.2 Engines. I used a 2.7 Motor, 240 Hp, 6 Speed. Great! This engine is reliable and the car is fast.
I live in the Mid Atlantic area, Shenandoah Valley and Skyline Drive. Think two hours west of D.C. The S model price commands close to 50% more than the 2.7L. I have a 2000 2.7L and a 2003 3.2L. The differences discussed in this video ad up to a big improvement in driving experience. For me, I would rate my sporty cars from lesser to better driving enjoyment on two lane twisty mountain area roads: 00 Z3 2.5 auto, 95 MX5 1.8 manual, 98 Z3 2.8 manual, 00 986 2.7 manual, 01 Z3 3.0 auto, 01 Z3 3.0 manual, 03 986 3.2 manual. It's quite a jump from the 2.7 to 3.2 986. Of special note is my RX-8 which is my favorite ride, for exceptional handling experience. Clarkson called it the best handling car he'd driven that year, but was forced to back off and said it wasn't that good because of the tires it came with, after having a blast using those same tires. The show had to avoid losing the high end sponsors. Of all the above, the 986 3.2 would win on a track, and come in second to an SLK AMG55. I keep meaning to get one of those, but I gotta sell most of the herd.
Oh yes since I made that video back in 2019 lots has changed for sure in the used car market, plus each part of the country will have a different market price. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment, enjoy those Porsches Papatorr!
Hi good video. All fair comments bar one. Certainly in the UK the base 2.5 was always available with bigger wheels if the original purchaser choose to select them as an option. 17s were included in the mo30 sports suspension pack and 18s were available from 1998 if you had deep enough pockets!
Thanks for great videos👍👍👍😊😊 Diff between base and S here were I live is abt 8 or 9k(!)... so I dd not buy a S when I bought my 98 base tiptronic for abt 12k (114k miles ... cheapes around). I sand blasted and painted all callipers red and got stickers on 😊 and mounted gas shocks (huge diff)...have 17 inch wheels...think it is a good compromise. A lot of speed bumps here so my car is low enough... A few HPs more would have been fine but not really needed on narrow curvy mountains roads in Norway😀😀
First of all. The Ss third cooler is not keeping it colder. Its there because on the 2.5 ( smaller engine) the temps would be around 200-220 before the fans kick on and people relized that having the engine so hot isnt that great so people would manually turn on fans earlier either through an aftermarket switch or turning the AC. The bigger engine would obviously make it even hotter so the thrid cooler is a must.
No mention of the facelifted (2003 - 04) 2.7 that had an extra ~10bhp. That's what I have. Came with 17" wheels standard but currently has 18" Turbo Twists. I might go back to the 17s as it rides a little better on those. I would prefer a 6 speed, though.
I must admit I looked at about 4 x 3.2s and they were crap, I viewed a beautiful 2.7 and went for that 1 previous owner fsh from new hardtop plenty enough power speed limit in the uk is 70 mph so how much faster do you actually need. Power is more than enough in the 2.7L.
Hi Brian! For Automatic Transmission (Tiptronic) 2,7 or 3,2 only. "Small" 2,5 engine is too weak. Is just my opinion (we have no speed limit). Greetings from Germany.
I would not recommend the tiptronic transmission at all. The transmission itself is build by zf and was also used in the Mercedes E-Class and the Jaguar XJ / S - Type at the time. While the transmission was ok for an automatic transmission in a sedan it is far to slow for a sporty car / sports car. Unless you absolutely hate to drive a manual I would recommend the manual transmission 11 out of 10 times! Greetings from Germany as well.
@@ArrowheadGarage these cars don’t have oil pressure problems like the 2.0t VW/Audi motors do they? I don’t think I can handle that problem again right now. I’m still fuming.
why 2,5L is better than a 3,2L is SOUND. Incomparably raw, loud, powerful exhaust that unfortunately post-1999 cars lost forever. And an analog gas pedal.
@@ArrowheadGarage 2,5L has a lot more of a gokart/motorcycle feel, and that smaller engine is always at higher stress, which results in very intense distinct tone that's just not there in larger, "more relaxed" motors. Hard to believe unil you hear them side by side. As to power and speed, any of those engines can get you enough fun to get you in trouble.
Weight alone doesn't determine cornering ability. Suspension geometry plays a bigger part than weight ever will. Look at pikes peak trucks, or any full size truck like unimogs and tatras doing hillclimbs.
@@joshthomas2536 If you change the suspension, then for sure. But as long as you compare stock to stock suspension of s and non s, the lighter one has an advantage.
Im 14 years old and my dream car Is Porsche boxster s, here in Europe you can buy it for 10 000 euros, but is it good first car or not? I know, it is potencionally really dangerous becose of high performance engine and rear wheels drive. But, then it is i think really practic car for young petrolheads, what do you think?
@@ArrowheadGarage thank you so much for reply ! I have two last questions :DDD First one is, what do you think about that known IMS problem, is it as bad as everyone says or not ? And second one is about boxsters price, is it real to buy boxster after like 10 years or the price will be rising ? I know, it is really hard to say, but what do you think ??
I recently bought 2000 2.7L Boxster and looked at a lot of them looking for an S, I could not find 1 S that wasn't almost double the cost of what I got. Not sure where you got one for $1000.00 more, in my case that would be $8800.00, with 54,000 miles on it?
I have had several people tell me that Base vs S in their areas are WAY more expensive... Out here is the Southwest of the States they seem to be cheaper for some reason.
In maual the 2.5 is the most fun because it has close ratio gearbox a cable accelerator for instant throttle responce and a non electric steering for much better feel.the others are laggy and the gears are too far apart.drive both and see the difference is very noticeable
am i the only one that has never been burned or heart broken by a woman lol because.... i cant tell!!! meaning i hope u guys dont pick your women like u pick your cars. i mean its the same thing! being sexy is meaning less if your ugly on the inside!!! same thing with a boxster 2.7 or the S model no difference ...well not really. when u compare the two the price point vs the better performance, its sooo small its not even worth the extra money!! meaning if i had a choice to buy a 2.7 or the S model the 2.7 is a better value with almost the same performance but for way less money! same as saying if i had a chance to buy the 986 over the 987 it would be the 986 every time hands down the 986 had a better formula even tho they are almost the same car!! just the 987 had a few newer updates styling now the S model is faster but not buy much!!! the 2.7 is slower but still a beast with less problems as well. and the S model cost more to maintain than the 2.7 as i said the S model is faster but i just can justify spending a extra 6k for only a half a car length in the quarter mile.