Portable Power Repair Secrets - Schumacher™ XP2260W 

No, I don't, but you can easily replace it with a common AC socket like this: www.aliexpress.com/item/32804170262.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.153c5a14HQiniT&algo_pvid=9e846bdf-b19d-4beb-82b0-76cd5eaf92bc&algo_exp_id=9e846bdf-b19d-4beb-82b0-76cd5eaf92bc-22&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2264309682539%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B1.04%3B-1%3BUSD+0.97%40salePrice%3BUSD%3Bsearch-mainSearch Replacement is easy. Horizontally, the two sockets are about the same size. An oscillating tool fitted with a narrow blade makes short work of the plastic brackets (molded to the rear cover) that held the old socket. If you don't already have one, consider something like this: www.harborfreight.com/collections/christmas-savings/2-amp-variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-57808.html Vertically, the new socket is a little taller. Just enlarge the opening using a small file. Perhaps you have a broken CD/DVD player, VCR, computer power supply, etc. that you can rob a perfectly good socket from? If so, don't forget the power cord. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

@@LawrencePina Thank you for your help! I will do that

OK, give me a couple of days. I still have to go pick it up. Thanks, Lawrence. I'll let you know.

Read through the playlist comments. I've not had this problem but others reporting similar symptoms say that the air hose tends to fall off the barb inside the unit. To fix it, they just push the hose back on. As for part numbers, I'm pretty sure you'll find the URL of a Schumacher parts vendor in the one of the Portable Power Repair Secrets comments as well. I've not ordered anything from that vendor, so I don't remember it. You'll have to read through the comments. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

It's not uncommon for the display to stall at 95% or so while charging, then jump to 100% as soon as you unplug the AC charge cable. That just proves the battery maintainer (overcharge protection) circuit is working. Also, a when the main power/jump start/USB switch is turned on, a fully charged battery should indicate about 13 Volts. If you're getting much less than that, try charging it through one of the 12 Volt (cigarette lighter) sockets. Be careful, because there's no overcharge protection when you do it that way. If after 2 or 3 hours the percentage of charge doesn't indicate any higher than when you charged using an AC cable, then you've got a weak battery. If it does go higher, then you might have a broken / intermittent AC charge socket on the back of the unit. That's the usual problem with these Schumachers and it's easily fixed. Just replace it with any other style AC socket, used or new, whatever is going to fit. For the latest info on fixing trash piked portable power stations, please watch ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A2Cyh9zeK5E.html "Radio Repair Secrets - Harbor Freight 5-IN-1 Portable Power Station." Good luck with your Schumacher. Thanks for commenting!

The Schumacher xp2260W (at least the ones I've seen) takes a WP18-12SHR, 12V 18AH/20HR, Initial current less than 5.4A non-spillable, sealed, lead acid battery.

It can handle 1.7 amps maximum.

I have exact model of this. My unit won't work in AC mode. Can you tell me what I can do to fix it.

Check the 25 amp fuses on the inverter board. That's the board with the heat sink on the right-hand side when the back of the case is open.​@dido1803

Sounds like the battery is not just dead (as in partially discharged) but dead shorted (as in presenting zero ohms to the charger). Disconnect the battery. Take it out. Test it with a multimeter if you've got one. Otherwise, with no battery in the device, place the jumpers across a car battery and see if everything (compressor, light, inverter, USB) still works like Mustie1 shows how to do in his video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--VTElQ6URQ4.html. If everything still works, chances are that all you need is a new battery. Good luck. Thanks for asking. Please like and subscribe as it really helps the channel.

Yes, you might be able to replace it, but usually the air hose just falls off the barb inside the unit. Read through the playlist comments. Others have had compressor problems and usually they just clamp the hose back on. As for part numbers, I'm pretty sure you'll find the URL of a parts vendor in the one of the Portable Power Repair Secrets comments as well. Not something I've ever used so I don't remember it. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

The 2 Volt LED next to the folding AC plug lights green whenever a live power cord is attached. If the internal battery is disconnected, then it blinks green. If the LED is not lighting at all, then either the AC cord is open or not plugged in to a live outlet, the folding AC plug is broken (a very common problem) or the LED is open. Are you sure the AC adapter board (to which the LED is connected) is charging? When NOT under charge, the battery should read 12+ Volts. When the battery IS under charge it should read 14+ Volts. Mine goes to 14.25 Volts or so when charging. So which is it? Remove the battery door and test for charge voltage. If you measure 14+ volts when the AC cord is plugged in to a live outlet then the 2 Volt LED is open. You can ignore it or replace it with a new LED. If you don't get charge voltage, then folding AC plug is broken, or there's a problem on the AC adapter board located directly behind the back cover. Good luck! Thanks for asking. Please like and subscribe as it really helps the channel.

@@LawrencePina Thanks for all the information. So I was lucky enough to charge it up recently which is why the battery LED indicator registers plenty of power and it jump started my car. But from what you just wrote, I'm pretty sure the folding AC plug is now broken as the light won't come on anymore. And I figured that might be the case. It does not charge anymore. I really appreciate the reply and the help!

@@BillyReichard I finally made a video showing how to replace that jack. If you still have the XP2260 and haven't fixed it yet, you may find this useful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OaDMhZrZlwE.html

@@LawrencePina YES! Thank you!! :) I still have it and now plan to fix it.

Most likely you have a bad battery, and/or corroded battery connections. Open the battery compartment and check the battery terminals. Disconnect the wires if necessary and clean off any corrosion you find with apple cider vinegar. When all connections are corrosion free, reconnect everything and with the charger disconnected (unit NOT plugged into AC) check the battery with a voltmeter. A good, fully charged battery should measure 12.8 - 13.2 volts. With the charger plugged in (unit connected to AC), you should measure just over 15 volts. The recharge threshold is somewhere between 9 and 10 volts. Once a battery falls below that threshold, the little charger built into the unit (or built into the AC adapter supplied with Shumacher/DieHard units) will NOT be able to recharge it. It's not very difficult to check and replace the battery on these Schumachers. Removable battery compartment door makes it very easy. For additional help please watch ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OaDMhZrZlwE.html titled Portable Power Repair Secrets - Schumacher™ XP2260 Not Charging? and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OsAhYTDgEr8.html Portable Power Repair Secrets - Schumacher™ XP2260 Not Charging? PART 2. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

Here's what's going on: Twelve volt car batteries have six, 2.1V cells. When new and fully charged they should measure 12.6V (6 x 2.1 = 12.6). When new and slightly overcharged, they might measure as high as 12.8V. So for the sake of discussion, we'll take 12.8V as 100% charged. Now most starter motors require a minimum of 12.0V (continuous power) to operate. When a car battery momentarily falls below 12.0V, it may still run the lights and the radio, but the starter motor just clicks. At some point, typically at or below 11.8V, the whole car goes dead. So for the sake of discussion, we'll take 11.8V as 0% charged and 12.8V as 100% charged. 12.8V minus 11.8V gives us a spread of 1.0V between 0% and 100% charged. Now your power pack is only 40% charged. 40% of 1.0 volt is 0.4V. Add 0.4V to 11.8V and we see that the 40% charged battery in your Schumacher is only up to about 12.2V. Now what happens when we connect a 12.2V power pack battery in parallel with an 11.8V car battery? (12.2 + 11.8 = 24 and 24/2 = 12) 12.0V is right at the threshold needed to operate the starter motor and that's why it's still clicking. To successfully jump start a car with a dead battery, you need a power pack with a good battery at or near 100% charge. (12.8 + 11.8 = 24.6 and 24.6/2 = 12.3V, more than enough to work the starter motor) 40% charge is just not going to do it. Hope this helps. Thanks for commenting and special thanks for asking a very good question.

Regarding "front lights don't come on," do you mean the LED work light doesn't light up? Do you mean the LCD display doesn't light up? Or, do mean that neither the work light nor the display lights up? Neither lights up would be the most common problem, indicating that the battery is dead, and needs to be recharged or replaced. If it's just the work light that won't light up, then you most like have a bad ON/OFF switch. Please watch ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A2Cyh9zeK5E.html titled Radio Repair Secrets - Harbor Freight 5-IN-1 Portable Power Station for more info on that problem. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

In normal use, an alarm sounds when a module (usually air compressor, inverter, or USB device) is ON, and internal battery voltage has dropped (or is about to drop) below the minimum needed to sustain that module. The internal battery charger only supplies 14V, 500 mA, which is not much. If the module that drained the battery is still switched ON, then logically the alarm would continue to sound even when you connect AC power. If all modules are OFF, then you could also have wiring problem and/or a failed component causing excessive current to be drawn, when AC power is connected. Two videos that might help you to get to the bottom of it are ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g5ibI23UWCA.html "Portable Power Repair Secrets - DieHard 950 and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OaDMhZrZlwE.html "Portable Power Repair Secrets - Schumacher XP2260 Not Charging?" Hope they help. Thanks for commenting. It really helps the channel.

@@LawrencePina Thanks. I put the battery on a NOCO Genius direct through the 12v port to see if it could bring the battery back. No dice. New 22ah battery on the way. Fingers crossed it works...if not will have to build a custom box with my new battery, haha.

Most likely the air hose has cracked, detached or has a hole in it. If not, check for low voltage to the pump. If you can pry the ON/OFF switch forward, without taking the covers off, try shorting across the contacts. If the pump starts working normally again, a corroded, high resistance switch is the problem. Measure its length, width, and depth carefully with a caliper. Order a bag of ridiculously cheap replacements from AliExpress. Avoid Cainiao Shipping (even if it's free). Pay a dollar or two extra for AliExpress Standard shipping (as necessary), and new switches should arrive in 2 to 3 weeks. Good luck! Thanks for commenting. Please like and subscribe as it really helps the channel.

Sir, if my air hose is broken, can I replace it? Is there a video on this?

Not easily. Larger compressors used with air tools in garages and workshops have NPT (National Pipe Thread) fittings. To replace a hose on those compressors, grab two wrenches and simply unscrew it. But, small air pumps used in portable power stations tend to have crimped fittings, on both ends. To replace the hose you would need to uncrimp it from the pump. Certainly you would have to remove the pump to do that. Then, you would need a new hose assembly, a new crimp fitting, and an expensive crimp tool to attach it. Alternately, I guess you could try attaching the new hose with a tiny, stainless steel hose clamp. Then, there's the question of where you're going to get the new hose? I'm sure someone, somewhere has done it, but generally speaking, the hose is part of the air pump assembly and in the event of hose failure (unless it's something you can cut in half and possibly extend) you have to replace the whole thing. Lot's of online videos show how to repair a leaking air hose... Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

These symptoms are addressed in the official XP2260 owner's manual, PDF pages 8 and 9, which you can read and download here: www.manualsdir.com/manuals/138818/schumacher-xp2260.html?page=9 Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

The pdf file is no help. Same issue here. Everything else works have used it multiple times to boost vehicles

It's easy enough to find out. Just watch "Portable Power Repair Secrets - DieHard 950" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g5ibI23UWCA.html and/or "Portable Power Repair Secrets - Duralast BP DL750 Jump Starter" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rTAegAgd_HY.html for step-by-step instructions. If you confirm that the currently installed battery is stone dead, and that after connecting a known good battery (internally or externally) the unit still doesn't charge (charge voltage across the battery should be between 13 and 14 Volts), then you may have a broken flip-out AC power plug on the back of the unit. If that's the case (common problem) replace the flip out plug with a standard AC power socket. You can buy a new one online, or you can rob one from a discarded desktop computer, DVD player, stereo component, TV, VCR, etc. The replacement AC power socket in my XP2260 came from a discarded PC power supply and only required a little filing to make it fit. Hope this helps. Thanks for asking! Please like and subscribe as it really helps the channel.

@@LawrencePina I bought a new battery that came 90% charged but when I plug in the cord to the A/C inlet to charge it , it still will not charge and the charge light won't turn on. Looks like that A/C inlet part has been discontinued.

Replace it with a common AC socket like this: www.aliexpress.com/item/32804170262.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.153c5a14HQiniT&algo_pvid=9e846bdf-b19d-4beb-82b0-76cd5eaf92bc&algo_exp_id=9e846bdf-b19d-4beb-82b0-76cd5eaf92bc-22&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2264309682539%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B1.04%3B-1%3BUSD+0.97%40salePrice%3BUSD%3Bsearch-mainSearch Replacement is easy. Horizontally, the two sockets are about the same size. An oscillating tool fitted with a blade designed for cutting wood and plastic (not one made for cutting metal) makes short work of the plastic brackets (molded to the rear cover) that held the old socket. If you don't already have one, consider something like this: www.harborfreight.com/16-amp-single-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-62866.html Vertically, the new socket is a little taller. Just enlarge the opening using a small file. Perhaps you have a broken CD/DVD player, VCR, computer power supply, etc. that you can rob a perfectly good socket from? If so, don't forget the power cord. Good luck! Thanks again for commenting.

Schumacher model XP2260W has AC input which is internally converted to 12-15V DC, 1A charging power. DieHard brand (Schumacher) models with DC input use external 15V DC 1A AC adapters. Polarity is positive to the tip, negative to the ring. Hope this helps. Thanks for asking! Please like and subscribe as it really helps the channel.

What about the battery terminals? Have you looked at them? Are they corroded? When the AC charge cable is disconnected, and you turn on main power, what voltage does the display indicate? A fully charged, properly connected battery should read about 13V. If you can't tell because the display does not light up (not clear from your description of the problem), grab a multimeter and measure battery voltage across the red and black jumper cables. If it reads 12.5V to 13V (main power switch on) your battery is charged. If it reads much less than that, put a battery charger across across the jumper cables and retest after a couple of hours. If the battery charges that way, then there is a problem in the unit. If it doesn't charge that way, if you can't even charge the battery after removing it from the unit, then you've got a bad battery. And remember, the usual problem with these units is a broken / intermittent charge socket. Are you sure that it's intact? If not, easy fix. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

@@LawrencePina OK I charged the unit for 12 hours... no juice. when the unit was plugged in to the electric the light would come on. When I unplugged the unit the light goes out. Maybe it's time to replace the battery????

@@LawrencePina Probable made in china

@@stableboynmilkmaid Take out the battery and test it with a voltmeter!

@@LawrencePina How do you fix the intermittent charge socket? Mine won't charge at all.

You almost certainly have a dead battery www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-Replaces-Schumacher/dp/B00UOPPJJ8. Mustie1 shows how to test and replace a typical power pack here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--VTElQ6URQ4.html but note that replacement is much easier on the XP2260W because you don't have to take the whole unit apart. All you have to do is unscrew the battery compartment door. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

@@LawrencePina hey can these be jumped like car batteries?

Yes. That's exactly what Mustie1 does in his video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--VTElQ6URQ4.html

Unless it's been under water, badly corroded, or something like that, I'm sure the board is fixable. Did they tell you which board (power supply, inverter, or digital display) has failed and why they felt it was unfixable? Alternately, what are the symptoms?

@LawrencePina It was Interstate battery. They did not tell me which one only it was a bad board. Symptoms are negative terminal arching when installing new battery. The reason for the new battery was a parasitic draw caused the old one to go bad. I have no idea where it was coming from.

Try disconnecting the inverter to battery negative cable as shown at 1:40 in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OsAhYTDgEr8.html If the parasitic drain goes away, everything else should still work fine, meaning you'll still have a jump starter, a USB charger, a DC power source (very handy for DC lighting, DC refrigerators, etc.), still have an air compressor, and still have a work light. Trying this won't cost any money and even though it's not the perfect solution, it makes a lot more sense than throwing the whole unit away. Especially, when you can replace that 400W inverter with an external plug in unit from Harbor Freight that's frequently on sale for just $15 or so. Give it (disconnecting the inverter negative cable) a try. Let me know how you make out. If you still get sparks it means the problem is NOT in the inverter and we'll take it from there...

It's generally accepted that rechargeable batteries should NOT be discharged beyond 50% capacity. That warning even applies to the most expensive, deep cycle, storage batteries. The low voltage warning on a portable power pack (with rechargeable, storage battery) sounds off at about that level. If you continue using any function after the alarm sounds, the battery may suffer irreparable damage. It might never charge back to 100% capacity. Even when the display indicates 100%, it won't last very long. Other times, after having been discharged below 50% capacity, it might not take a charge at all. So, the low voltage warning is a safety device. If it's sounding after just a few minutes of use, you need to replace the battery. Power pack will be good as new. Otherwise, if you want to prove that the advice about NOT discharging below 50% is valid, without having to suffer through the alarm noise, I guess you could always disconnect the noise maker. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

@@LawrencePina my beep doesn't stop. I charge for 12 hours and it beeped the whole time. Not sure if it will ever stopped. I finally ran compressor for the day just to kill battery. Plus it doesn't beep in compressor mode. Do you have any additional info. Do I just need to charge for a couple days or 24 hrs

Here's an easy way to determine whether it's the battery or the low voltage warning circuit: 1. Open the battery door, disconnect the negative side of the battery, or disconnect both sides of the battery and remove it altogether. You'll need a #2 Phillips screwdriver and two 8mm (aka 5/16 in.) wrenches to accomplish that. 2. Connect any other known good 12V battery to the jumper cables. You can use a car battery, a lawn mower battery, a lawn tractor battery, a portable generator battery, a motorcycle battery, whatever you've got. 3. Turn on main power and see what happens. Is the unit still beeping? Assuming you connected a fully charged battery, then the problem is in the power pack. If the beeping has stopped, then the problem is in the battery that you removed. 4. It might not be a bad idea to check both batteries with a volt meter as well. That way, you'll be sure that at least one of them is fully charged (12.5 - 13V).

:) lovely ! but the charger is not going to treat the batterie well ! Do not do it :)

Not easily. Even if someone assembled a Li-ion battery pack small enough to fit the space provided and powerful enough to run all XP-2260 functions, you would still have to redesign and replace the built-in SLA battery charger PCB. The charge characteristics of Li-ion and SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries are very different. Redesigning and fabricating the new charger PCB would be a lot of work. While I'm sure there's an engineer somewhere who could do it, it's just not worth it, in my opinion. Almost every portable power pack that comes my way has malfunctioned due to an undercharged, or never-been charged, nearly dead 18Ah OEM battery. Just replace the bad battery with a more powerful, MigtyMax 22Ah SLA. The power pack works better than ever and I've not had a single complaint!

You know, I thought that, too. Maybe someone tried to jump a shorted battery? But the 12V internal battery in the XP2260W had NOT been damaged. Both the jumper cables and the 12V to 5V USB adapter are directly connected to it through the rotary switch. And, why would trying to jump a shorted battery have blown up the 5V adapter? The USB connector is mounted just below the LCD, on the front of the display panel PCB. Quite a bit of work to get to it. There's a 2W current sense resistor connected to the 5V USB power pin, a 5V regulator and associated components just behind that. But, since the jumper cables were not melted and the battery was not damaged, I thinking it was more likely a USB problem. I guess we'll never know, but if I ever see that problem again, I'm pulling the display panel PCB, and testing it, before I put everything back together. Thanks for the helpful comment. Please like and subscribe as it really helps the channel.