Hello everyone, Sorry for the long wait! Over the past few months, I had to re-design almost all everything to meet the cost, usability and performance constraints that I determined. This is because that due to all the positive feedback I received, I am attempting to commercialize and open source this printer in some way. Positron V1.0 was good but it is mostly a proof of concept, Positron 2.0 has improvements on almost every aspect and is far more polished; It has been printing for over 200hrs so far without any problems. If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to ask them in the comments. Thanks for your support!
Why did you decide to make it a bowden? Have you discarded direct-drive of V1 completely, or did you just decide that bowden would be a better starting point for commercialization?
I don't need a folding 3D printer, but I would buy this in a heartbeat just for the performance alone, and to support what is one of the most creative and innovative designs I have seen in a long time. This is nothing short of amazing. The story of how much work you put into this to get it to this point is inspiring.
Great Design and awesome footprint of the machine. Would love to have that in my laptop bag and be able to print anywhere! Also: in terms of speedboat race were kind of in the same category :D everyone else keeps pushing there vorons, were going different directions :)
This printer is just amazing. As a 3d printing fan that wouldn't give a lot of use to a 3d printer, this is the one I would buy, due to its low size and high printing volume, and its incredible performance!
Glad this project is still going. I remember seeing the first one. It really was a great compact printer. I haven't seen anything this small. This version looks even more polished and looks better.
I‘ve been wanting a 3d printer for over a year now but since I saw this one I want no other one anymore but this portable upsidedown printer! So stoked to see the next video and build one myself!
@@themanthemyththelegend1392 well unless you misconstrued what was said as "he's re-inventing 3D Printing as we know it", I can't help but point out, that, your comment makes me pretty annoyed. For starters, nothing is this small, with even half the build volume, Secondly, upside down printing has never really been refined as a concept. This is upside down printing, being refined as a concept, right before your eyes. Third, this would be a whole other world of "cheap and easy" to ship worldwide, compared to practically any other fdm printer out there. There's a lot more I could say, I'll leave it at that.
2 months later and this is still the coolest printer! Also, can you tell us when the next update video is coming out yet? I’m super excited for this and would love to buy one/parts whenever those become available
Could it take a Bondtech CHT nozzle? I would assume so if it's a V6 hotend. The CHT splits the filament for better melting performance, which would probably improve melting even more, even with partially melted filament.
I still love the concept, that sub 30 min benchy looked better than some 3 hour benchys I've seen. Awesome work and I'm happy to see that something this innovative will be reaching the fdm 3d printing space, since it's has been somewhat stagnant of late. Keep up the good work
I am very surprised we haven’t seen any consumer upside down printers released since your original video. it seems to be such an efficient design that someone would want to capitalise on it
I love seeing your solutions to every problem you encounter. I feel engineers who are able to innovate and bring creative solutions where others have overlooked are a rare breed. I can't wait to see your continued successes in your work going forward.
@@kruger12311 no, it's not a remake because it's upside down and corexy, everything else is different. Based on your logic, all cartesian printers are knockoffs and they are the same
As a possible alternative to the copper heating elements: I've seen heating elements made by hitting kapton tape with a laser making laser induced graphene. getting a kapton tape sheet that sticks to the back of the build plate and lasering your heating element pattern might be an interesting alternative. Obviously you don't have a completely clear build plate anymore, but still transparent. I saw this in "Kapton Tape Supercapacitor?" by Breaking Taps on youtube. The heating application is mentioned near the end of the video.
@@vampcaff gravity may work the same, but when the print head is passing over for the next layer it will push a slightly saggy bridge up/flat. That's going to make a difference.
I'd be interested in that too. I'm curious if there would be adhesion problems for dense or large prints without much contact area with the bed (well, ceiling lol).
How does the 90 degree nozzle design work with jams etc? At least a cold pull would probably snap in the corner and make more problems? This looks amazing and I want one as portable printer, but this has me a bit concerned. Hope you can show hotend maintenance in the full intro video!
I see that the bed shakes a ton when the print is printing. Does that affect the print in anyway? Do you have any upcoming solutions to minimize that shake. I love this idea. Can’t wait to see it grow.
@mmooosee The entire machine was shaking, meaning the nozzle shaking was in sync with the plate. Otherwise the quality would be much worse. the test in the video was pushing the machine to the limits. The machine doesn’t shake in normal speeds and accelerations.
Please upload the CAD-Files. I want to mill the parts :) I'm so excited about the printer. I'm waiting since the release for the correct files. Didn't build it because you said the second version will be much better.
Do you have documentation on the synchromesh cable? I couldnt find much online about it. While I did see people say it eliminated backlash, there was also a post or two that said it would do the opposite. What has been your experience?
This is so cool!! I didn't even know 90 degree hotend were a thing! Are there plans to commercialize this printer, or make a materials list/build guide?
I only just stumbled upon the V1 the other day, and with no idea how long until the V2 came out, I started looking into making a V1. I am very pleased with the V2 :) and I can't wait to build or buy my own!
I am so excited that 2.0 is here! Your work is unique and delightfully innovative! Looking forward to following your instructions and learning to make one myself! Thank you for sharing your hard work! 🙌
Wow! Amazing accomplishment. Would love to build one in a suit case with Li batteries built in. Solar charging buffer and ability to be feed ground plastic and self extrude. So recycled bottles could be used for source material. Ok maybe 2 suit cases ;)
Like I said last video, I want one. Hell, I want 2 of them. I'm not sure what your price point will be, but if it's anywhere near $300, I'll buy two of them. If it's closer to $500 or $600, I'll buy one now and one later. Lol
Why did you decide to make it a bowden? Have you discarded direct-drive of V1 completely, or did you just decide that bowden would be a better starting point for commercialization? I understand that it allows for much greater speeds, especially since the rest of the gantry is so light, plus the tube is short and Klipper seems to deal with it well enough. But still, I feel like direct-drive can provide useful quality increase, especially for models where postprocessing would be hard. Maybe I just had some bad experience with bowdens.
I don't think that's a bowden tube. You can see the pinch roller on the direct drive extruder being squeezed open as the filament is inserted into the guide tube. I suspect the PTFE tube is merely to keep the filament from contacting other parts of the printer. EDIT: now determined to be an incorrect statement.
@@freddotu 1:11 till 1:16 : If you look carefully the pinch roller is mounted on the base, not on the head. At 1:14 the print head is in the lower left corner of the video.
@@JayOhm Yes, I see that I am incorrect. Thank you for the clarification. It is understandable that one would use a bowden tube for reduced weight and increased performance. Bowden tubes require greater retraction than direct drive systems, but I suspect retraction could be a minimum, as gravity provides an assist in this type of printer.
@@freddotu Seems I was wrong too, V1 is a bowden too. I was so sure it was a direct-drive, though… P.S. The main problem with bowden isn't retraction, it is filament compression and flex. "Pressure advance" helps to account for it, and if it is tuned perfectly almost no retraction should be necessary. But with longer tubes and more flexible filaments tuning it well becomes next to impossible.
@@JayOhm I have a bowden tube printer that can't be converted to direct drive, but I looked into the remote direct drive systems. My Sigma R16 uses 3.0/2.88 mm filament and none of the remote direct drive systems can be adapted. I suppose this wonderful bit of engineering may be more easily adapted to such a system.
seen that u have made a bunch of batter powerbanks how about making a battery jump box that is easy to carry with you and rechargeable anywhere like home or in the car
Awesome progress! Ever since I saw this printer and a printer with a scissor-lift for the Z I've been plotting to make my own mini printer that packs away into a featureless box after the print is finished. How hard is it to make the 90 degree heater block?
Hey man! I've had my eye on that PolyCharge power bank for a while! I want to purchase it or make it myself, whichever is available. Please, please, please, make it available.
Damn, I've been waiting for this! Should've waited longer, in fact…… I bought a printer 2 weeks ago……. oh well. This will be my second printer, when the time comes.
who knows how long you'd be waiting for this anyways. passion projects always take too long and are over engineered and over designed. but i appreciate this dudes efforts.
This is amazing but it looks like the bed needs to be stiffened. Just like a couple more metal pieces to stop that side to side motion when it changes direction and it should be good. Anyways great work!
the bed doesn't change directions, only on the z axis. but this things build plate does shake like crazy. however you can't just slap on some chunks of metal to fix the problem. this dude actually knows what he's doing. still appreciate a peanut gallery though.
@@vampcaff wdym? I said side to side as in the shaking it does and stiffening is stiffening no matter how he does it. He could use a linear rail on the opposites side, he could use some more supports snd structure back to the driven side of the bed, he could use pretty much anything as long as it strengthens the bed and stops the side to side movements (shaking)
My first thought was "But why?" Then I realised you've taken into account cost of materials vs rigidity and how making the build plate "the right way up" would require far more materials to gain the same stability as you have from this configuration Nice work! It's nice to see a change from the usual bed thrower design 👌
Please take my money! I would like to purchase when available. Very excited about this. Mostly impressed with your perseverance. It is my hope that you will be rewarded for your hard work. God bless!
I'll absolutely be building this, it's exactly what I've been looking for in a portable. Reading the comment section though I can see why you wouldn't want to do a speedboat challenge in a demo video, lots of people changing the colour of the logo so to speak.
Can you show us how well spheres print? Maker's Muse did a video where he just oriented a printer on it's side, and upside down, and it had little to no different how poorly the bottom of a sphere turned out
Any updates on when the release is coming? I can wait however much you need as long as it's still moving along, but I'm starting to save for a new printer and if it's going to be a long time I'll get a Voron 0.1 first and then get this one once it comes out.
Hello, what is the purpose of printing upside down? I heard, that it is to eliminate warping, but I think it won't help. I made a few experiments and it looks like warping is in most cases due to fast cooling in the middle and slower on base and it shrinks differently and then it bends. Or I'm wrong? Thank you.
I've been saving to build a Voron V0, but after seeing both the Positron V1 and now this for your V2, I think I might try to build one of these instead. Very excited to see the V2 release video!! What is the footprint of the printer when folded vs unfolded?
A downside I can see to an upside down printer is if your print has high infill and gets heavy, it could detach from the bed and fall onto the hotend. Is this sort of thing a worry?
Got a funky idea, why dont use a very big nozzle but not the diameter of the hole, would try standart like 0.4 mm and the nozzlehead is like 4 times bigger and almost flat. With a tini peak upwards to the "nozzlehole" Then use it in such a upside down printer and the nozzle than holds up the overhang material for just a small amount of time so it can cool down and get stiffer nozzle must be a material not sticking to fillament for example pla or pla+
Hi Kralyn3D - do you have a Patreon or Paypal donate? - I for one would be willing to assist you in these endeavors - I think you are doing such a great job.
