Hey Clay, And everyone watching that needs to know to fix this same leak... On these older Chevys, The "Schroeder" Valve on the High side just has a Black Plastic spring loaded Ball to hold the pressure, and it's very common for them to leak. The round top parts unscrews to replace the valve, not the part that you were unsuccessfully trying to turn. You have to hold that HEX head stable and unscrew just the round top portion of the access port with the black ball inside and replace it with the new one. Just to let everyone know, K Great jokes, Thanks
I found this out for myself on my 98 before finding this video. I did the same thing as him at first, and then noticed the top screws off separately. $9.99 at NAPA. Now to try and get my compressor to engage so I can add refrigerant to my empty system. I'll probably just take it in.
In my defense I’ve been doing air conditioning for over 25 years and you were not able to remove them at one time. Also if you watch my channel you’ll find that my eyesight is terrible I am legally blind. I’m not trying to make excuses for myself and I greatly appreciate you pointing that out because you are correct.
Your local auto parts stores should have that schrader valve: www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-oe-solutions-3387/air-conditioning-16770/air-conditioning-valves-16795/a-c-schrader-valve-12469/154007952915/dorman-oe-solutions-a-c-service-valve/800955/4257654 www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-replacement-valve/santech-a-c-system-valve-core-mt0105/951974_0_0 shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-gm-air-conditioning-schrader-valve-m12-x-150-800-955/10462714-P
Hey, that high pressure Schrader valve is replaceable. You had your wrench too low. Only the upper part comes off. Mine was leaking same as yours on my 98 GMC. Unfortunately, it wasn't the only leak and I'll have to take mine in to the shop.
@@sharpcarco hey Clay. I have a 1998 chevy k1500 v8. AC CLUTCH Does not engage. Have replaced control module, ac relay twice, jumped hi and low pressure switches. Clutch activates with 12 volts applied to the compressor. I noticed on your video uou activated the relay socket at what point to activate the clutch? On the schematic it looks like #87 should activate the clutch if 12 volts is applied. Question is you looked like you were probing pin 30 if my socket layout pic is correct which is the ac compressor fuse side. Which which would not activate the clutch unless the relay was closed. Is it possible to plug the relay in backwards? I ask this because my socket 87 is hot always if my relay socket diagram is correct.. but if I turn it around,, the pin 30 is hot always which is normal.
Great video. My AC wasn't blowing cold. Lines were cold, fuses were good, compressor was turning on and new blend door was installed... After numerous debugging attempts... The fix was to disconnect the battery for 10 min to reset it. Bam... Cold AC blowing now.
Some people like them some people hate them. I personally think if you remember some of them it makes you very entertaining especially in a social situation where you don’t know many folks
Hey thank you for making this video, I had problem no one could help me with. Watched ur video, made ur air tool found problem in 3 minutes. Thanks again
Trying to recharge my ac and wouldn’t u know it I hear a it leaking out so I made your crafty lil tool found the leak and again BIG CLAY SAVES THE DAY EVERY TIME I GOT CAR PROBLEMS U ALWAYS SAVE THE DAY
They also make a brass threaded plug that screws into the valve to stop it from leaking if you have trouble replacing the Schrader valve itself. It replaces the stock plastic black cap.
I wish you would have done this with a 99 silverado. it has a different setup than that 97. I still need to figure out why mine blows cool and the compressor clutch cycles on enough from time to time. thanks for the video
The components may look a little bit different, but the system works identical not necessary to do it on a 99 because air conditioning works under physics. There are very sound principles that should allow you to work on any vehicle in this particular video that was the intention of the video it really does not matter what I’m working on it’s the philosophy I use when I’m working on it and when I’m trying to teach others how to work on there’s
I could be wrong but I think the Schrader valve can be unscrewed and just replaced the inside mechanism with the spring and the post. Like in a car tire. Now maybe today or in this vehicle you cannot do that I have a 2000 Chevy truck so this is why I was interested in this video as I am interested in all of your mechanical videos very informative . And I think it has to be a special kind of Schrader valve or at least the rubber is somehow a different composite than the type you would screw in your tire.🖖🏽 Once in a while mine or what I perceive is the compressor sounds like it’s just blowing off air like a truck like a big truck now mine has the compressor down below it’s the 4.8 L which I think was a dumb idea it’s down there closer to the water snow etc. it has a separate belt Which when I ordered a spare belt I was surprised it was such a small belt I thought it was all one big serpentine belt so I have a small spare belt for the air compressor now which I carry behind the seat the regular belt looks pretty good the big win I have added one can of Freon about two years ago and still doing quite well I’ve had the truck for about four years
Yeah this is not the first time I’ve ran into Schrader valves that were not removable on a Chevrolet sometimes they have them kind of lines on them and sometimes they don’t I don’t know why . But I can probably tell you the reason that yours blows off air sometimes is because it’s over pressurized I’m surprised you’ve never had to add more Freon since then but that’s awesome Your system is probably over pressurizing from lack of air movement so I highly recommend you just take a high-pressure power washer and spray out the front of the condenser right in front of the radiator this will probably alleviate that problem and you will never have an issue again.
The Clay Way Initially I thought it was the belt slipping it almost Sounded like the sound was coming from under the dash . But the more I heard it it did sound like it was coming from the outside the cabin and toward the front I’ve never had the hood up and it happen it seems to be only under vehicle movement.it only happens very sporadically but I don’t drive the truck Much either Again thank you for the great videos 🖖🏽✌🏽
You don't have to replace the whole line. The top half of the high side line valve can be replace. The top half will come off with special socket or I take a niddel knose vice grip and loosen the top half of the valve . Make shure you grab it as close to where the valve looks like where it comes apart. You get a new valve at a parts house pretty cheap.
I haven’t had ac in my truck since I bought it from someone else. I thought the compressor didn’t work but that wasn’t the case. It did leak from there so I may try to replace all that. Let’s see if it works
Some people were commenting that you can just buy the fitting so make sure you check into that before you replace the whole line…. Back when I started working on ACs you could not replace them components but I was mistaken and apparently you can now
I had my home guy do my ac refill with vac and guages. Worked great till next morning all freon was lost. Now mechs are useing shop air to fill lines and watch the guages. Ya. im useing the sealer this time with a dye. I heard good about Red angel sealer.
I have a 96 c1500 so I took the truck to a mechanic since the ac wouldnt work he said all it needed was a recharge drove back home that day and the air was blowing cold after that day I turned on the ac again and it blows the air hot do you know what that could be?
Good video but I have a question. When you mention to check the compressor clutch and you ask "is our compressor turning and is there any resistance to it " and they you say " it does". My question is , are you answering "it does" to the fact that it is turning or to the fact that you feel some resistance ? Or both ? I know this may sound like a silly question , but I am going to follow your video to check mine out. Thanks and have a great day.
If you turn the compressor by hand there should be a limited amount of resistance When the vehicle is running the compressor should not be turning unless it’s turned on It’s an electromagnetic clutch so you should hear it in gauge by turning it on and off if it is working correctly
Help please.. we have a 2013 silverado. The air conditioner squeaks when we accelerate, noise goes away when we back off, or shut down the air. Before we start pulling belts, thinking it could be the fan?
Sounds like you probably have a bearing on one of the boys that are going bad. If you’re the mechanical type you can just remove the belt and then spin the pulley by hand. And you should be able to tell which one it is but if it’s not very squeaky you could also just spray some oil on it while it’s running and the squeak should go away if it comes back then it’s time to replace the bearing I hope that makes sense , also most of the pullies with the exception of the components themselves are generally only held down by one bolt so it should be fairly simple to change.
Yeah, several people have told me that the problem was that when I tried to loosen it, it was seized to the aluminum so it would’ve destroyed the line anyway also it doesn’t help that I’m blind, but I still make my way somehow
Hey Clay I have a 98 GMC Sierra 1500 4.3, My AC works perfectly fine very cold but the AC starts turning off and on, Sometimes works for 30 minutes and stops blowing air on the vents no cold no hot after some time starts working again, There is No blowing air cold or hot, I changed the controls switch inside, and The pressure switch low pressure, The blower motor resistor, Is charged with enough refrigerant, I tested the blower motor works fine, Please can you help me Thanks
Well there’s a whole bunch of technical advice I could give you that You may, or may not understand..... nevertheless to keep things simple and because this is a free advice., Do a really deep vacuum of about an hour or so with the vacuum pump. Use in our 134a . retrofit kit And if your system is working fill like I show you in the video. Because of the likelihood of existing microbes from the R 12 system at some point you’re going to experience a leak doing it the way that I’m describing but it will last quite a while maybe even a couple of years. Before you experience that it’s been a very very long time since I switched from our 12 to our134A and I honestly don’t remember how long it took before the system had a leak. But it took quite a while
@The Clay Way, great Video, I have an 07, just bought it, and the caps are off and the Schraeder valve on the high side is missing altogether, and jammed with mud, I like you are testing with air! good on you, do you think this is a common theme on GM trucks? bad valves? I need to start somewhere because the previous owner did not tell me anything as to why the plastic caps are gone!
Thank you very much for the kind words Randy First off the cabs are there just to keep stuff out of the Schrader valves themselves they’re not technically necessary because the engine usually doesn’t get more up underneath it It is extremely common for Hi side Schrader valve to leak you should be able to clean out the hole and then use the vacuum pump to suck the dirt and debris out of the system replace the Schrader valve and more than likely it will be just fine. I hope it works out for you have a great day
@@sharpcarco ahh thanks! so no water or solvents to clean it out, it is packed with mud, the high side. I just wonder why would they leave the shraeder valve out, and then let it get muddy~?
More than likely it started leaking and they removed it and didn’t put the cover back on it they probably couldn’t find one about the only way to get one that is the proper size for that particular one you would have to get from the junkyard generally the best place to get them from is the junkyards that let you pull them yourself use a regular Schrader valve remover
As long as you’re going to vacuum out the AC system after you get done replacing the Schrader valve you can use a solvent but you have to vacuum it down to at least -26HG And in order to be able to vacuum it down that much she will need at least a 3CFM pump
Hi, I have a question, this particular clutch on these 5.7l does it need a special tool to remove? I looked inside but instead of 10mm ...it doesn't look like a regular nut, please help.
You remove that night but generally you have to have a pool or kind of like one that you would pull the fly wheel off of a dirtbike or four wheeler I make special AC compressor clutch removal tools
What if you have replaced the a/c compressor and dryer, and the system has been filled with freon, and it still doesn't work? My 92 Silverado 4.3 has been in the shop last year at least 4 times for the same thing, and its still not working. So frustrated!!
That leaking Schrader valve you almost broke the line on is a ball valve that comes right off. And screws right back on but you unscrew the top of it not the bottom. The bottom is a hard line and the top is the valve. I guess anyone can make a repair video even if you don’t know what your doing 😳
No that means that the clutch is bad but you have to have special tools to remove it and replace it on most models so most people replace the whole Compressor
Well sorry I don’t have a video on that but I can tell you that most of the time the lines are rather simple to replace sometimes getting to the nuts on them can be difficult but not often usually even for a novice amateur mechanic most lines can be replaced within an hour or two all you have to do is take a quick look at them and see how they’re routed and usually it will be very self-explanatory but I will keep your recommendation in mind for future videos. Thank you very much have a great day
I have a 1985 Chevy C10. I built a carbureted "race" 350 with vortec heads. Im using accessories from a 97 Tahoe. Pretty much everything works with the c10 electrical and hoses. I had to convert the alternator to a 1 wire setup and the AC compressor to 1 wire setup as there is just 1 pressure switch on the c10 accumulator. In other words there is no low and high pressure switch provisions on the C10 AC system. The only thing that won't work is the fast idle solenoid as I am trying to keep the electrical simple. Seems like my AC setup is going to work. Great thing about pre 90s Chevy is they hardly change anything up
More than likely it’s low on Freon, something simple you can check is make sure that your condenser that’s right by the radiator is clean you can use a pressure washer and blow out all the dirt and debris that is collected in there before checking the other things that I mention. or your expansion valve/or orifice tube could have debris in it or is defective.
I have the same truck and when I first got it the HVAC worked randomly when I turned it on, sometimes it would work sometimes not. Any idea what could cause that?
It should still blow colder than that. Depends on if you’re moving or sitting still. I’d recommend cleaning your condenser making sure your fans are working correctly . Because that does not sound common.
i have a strange situation. 2000 suburban. all my pressure gauges look good. 100 deg temps outside, low side is 55, high around 315. the high pressure side hose is hot, then after the orifice tube the low pressure side is cold (not super cold) and my air is still blowing about 70 deg out the vents. I also manually put the cool/hot blend door in the cold position just to make sure the actuator isnt stuck. any idea what to check next? i dont wanna throw parts at it, and im pretty good at diagnosing. also the rear ac (separate controls) only blows hot but that symptom is almost alway a clogged expansion valve. ( front system uses orifice tube, rear uses expansion valve)
Look me up on clays AC and auto repair it’s easier for me to answer these questions, My first question is does your compressor engage? I’m assuming by the readings that you’re giving me that it is not turning on
did you use compressed air to leak check, nitrogen should be used. Sounds like you may have contaminated system, NON CONDENSABLE SUCH AS AIR OR restriction, possibly plugged txv screen.
No it was just bits and parts that I made I’ve had that thing for over 10 years. It doesn’t have to be identical to mine just make something that allows you to do it
I tryed filling my lines for 10 minutes today. Engine on and ac on high. Waved the can 12 to 3. Guess i had the wrong filler connector without the puncher stem. So stupid. I hate ac.
@F ALI Is that when it’s running or not running? If it’s in the red while it’s running more than likely the fan is not working properly or the condenser has a bunch of bugs dirt and Ect. in front of it you can blow it out with air or at the power washer Or your orifice tube is plugged.. Nine out of 10 times The reason it will run in the red is because the fan is not working I mentioned that inside the video that is extremely crucial to air-conditioning working properly sorry about the slow response
Need some info. For a 98 gmc k1500 5.0L v8 1/2 pickup so whats the difference of a non automatic adjusting orifice tube vs an adjustable orifice tube. Which is better cool and performance ?
Buy the one that came with it factory adjustable orifice tube’s and non-adjustable tubes are a way to get you to spend money that’s unnecessary like buying Bosch platinum +four Spark plugs because they’re supposed to be better...... they’re not. Air conditioning systems work under pressure and physics it’s not complicated or rocket science just buy what is supposed to go in the vehicle from the factory it probably already lasted like 15 or 20 years before you had a problem adding extra aftermarket components to a system is unnecessary and generally a waste of money . Sorry that’s just my opinion I hope you get her all fixed up
I have a question. What can cause the air not to come through the vents. I've had so many different people telling me different things. How can I stop getting screwed by mechanics that believe just because I'm a woman I don't know squat. Now, due to that issue I've taken it upon myself to learn how to do some repairs on my own. With that being said, I have no clue what to look into or troubleshoot on my 1997 Chevy Tahoe anymore. I can't afford to keep having different people continue to screw my vehicle up. I checked the fuses and the relay like you mentioned here. The compressor was replaced but still the main thing is that I need to know what is it that opens those vents up. Is the fact that the actuator not even installed any longer causing it to not work? I could use some guidance because too many people have disconnected and reconnected and so forth, and due to the fact that so many things that I don't know about the AC unit could be the problem, how do I get a diagram of what's connected to what.. Man, I know I'm rambling but I'm so tired and with my asthma I have to get air. But again, I don't know where to start. And then there's three electrical crap that it's might be.. Help!
My system will not accept freon change the valve stem I checked it on another car and the freon goes in with no problem I tried hot wiring still will not accept freon I took the air compressor off check the lines everything look fine put it back on will not accept freon
@@sharpcarco yes but. Now it has stopped but I hot-wired it and it comes straight on but from the main harness clip it will not come on and I had a c on Max and Max fan
Hey I have a 2009 chevy tahoe and the ac compressor is kicking on and off like it's supposed to and the unit is charged like it's supposed to be and all 4 actuator doors are working but the inside air is not blowing cold. What could my problem be? My heat works just fine but when I turn the temperature to AC it does not get cold
@@itswilly1482 I actually replace the orifice tube which was still clean so that wasn't the problem and then my compressor just stopped kicking on so I went and bought a used compressor installed it recharge the system in the AC works fine now
I thought in the video I mentioned why that was a waste of money....... But I would assume that you have too much Freon inside the system now do you need to evacuate the system and refill it properly
@@sharpcarco thanks, I tried that. I think i hear the clutch engaging a few seconds+ then turning off. The pressure will go up then down as I hear it engaging?
That is what it supposed to do.... in most situations that is working properly but using the gauges will tell you if the needle drops below 25 when it shuts off on the blue side low side then you do not have enough Freon in it If the red side goes higher than 350 you either have a restriction or too much Freon inside the system and that’s shutting it off I suppose the best way to explain it to you is evacuate all the Freon out of it and refill it slowly until the inside of the automobile is always blowing cold at an idol if you do not know how to read the gauges properly I would turn the low side on for about 2 to 3 seconds at a time until it feels very cold on the inside at an idol
@@sharpcarco I don't know. Some things are best left to the pros. Blowing up your system with compressed air will saturate the dessicant in the dryer I would think.
I thought process behind that is that you’ve got a vehicle that’s 15 or 20 years old and chances are pretty good that the dryer is not in the best of condition to begin with this video is intended for people to do things at home to make the system work the integrity of the system is already depleted if it is empty of Freon anyways and not working properly so I don’t see how you could be taking too much life away from a system that’s already had so much life taken from it. Just my opinion
@@sharpcarco I guess you have nothing to lose in that case. I have used those cans of refrigerant in junkers. I took my newer vehicle to a pro that has the proper machine. I see your point.