Testing a way of re-powder coating a repaired steel bike frame. Top tube was replaced and frame needed to be painted common to repair area and some adjacent to repair area.
One advantage to paint is the base coat for the color of stencil graphics. When I saw you put stencils on a powdercoat, I went, 'Waaaah?' Then saw what you were trying to do. I took a chance powdercoating a Tom Teesdale Nivachrome frame (top tube was bent in half in a car crash, me still on the bike). While the frame was TIG welded, I suspected a couple parts were brazed. The heat may have opened up one weak/thin section of braze . . . still not sure. I just used black vinyl replications of the graphics, no different to adding decals . . . and will 2K clearcoat over them.
@@leonarddaneman810 thanks for the comment. I love playing around with build. In my case, the owner did not want to strip the whole frame and finding a match wet paint would have been hard. I've never liked decal on my finished product. Just my taste. During the powder wet out phase, I then remove frome oven and remove decal and then add clear coat powder. The heat the frame is subjected to is only 400°f and should have no effect unless the frame may have been under a preload when it was built. That could explain a crack. What part developed a crack? Best wishes.
@@BFD_Bike_Frames I guess I missed the Clear Coat Powder step. Would some form of plating or anodizing make a more elegant background behind the stencils? Imagine a home silver or gold plating setup . . . As for my powdercoated T.E.T., the small parts, like cable guides, are brazed. And there is only one lug, around the top of the seat tube. I just took a diamond file to the 'crack' and it just seems to be in the powdercoat finish, not the joint itself. The powdercoat company provided a perfectly matched touchup paint, which will clean up where I filed the finish away to inspect the joint. Will see if the paint cracks again.
@@leonarddaneman810 I've tried a few things while powdercoating and I sure there are talented people that could do what you suggested, but ive found that if I do more than 2 colors and keep the stenciling simple the outcome is good. When I try to get complex ideas things go south fast. Lol.
@@BFD_Bike_Frames How about instead of complex, nasty chemical plating take bronze or gold and simply 'burnish' or 'braze' it as a background for the stencil? That's how they make those smooth frame joints, burnishing the bronze brazing . . . torch a thin layer of bronze or gold where the stencils go, burnish smooth, and then apply the stencils. Then you can paint and remove the stencil. I don't know how you would 'stencil' a powdercoat.
