Excellent equipment to buy for someone interested in car audio,especially those that want to turn things after you install it followed by dont touch or turn these settings. Glad to see it put those numbers out but such a small power input. Excellent review as always ty sir for sharing Hope you're having a wonderful Sunday 🤞
Wow now it's documented 1ohm stable (They always ran at 1ohm you just have to be careful).*The New 2500 you have has 50a fuses and the older one has 30a. The Razor is worth every Penny.Thanks for the upload.
Not a bad deal. When I got back into car audio 3 or 4 years ago, I would have been all over this. You could do some pretty wild budget builds with these
I have the older version of this amp at least 6 years old on two Polk mm 10s and it gets down. My starting ohm load is like 1.33 and it doesn’t bother the amp at all. My only problem with the amp was the 25 amp fuses were not enough and would blow 1 of hem all the time so I switched them to 30 maybe 40 amp fuses and never had an issue since then and I push it hard for hours on end. They are small little heavy bricks.
I've got the slightly older 2-ohm version 2500. The only thing that bugs me is the bass knob sensitivity. All the adjustment is from 9 o'clock to 11 o'clock. I swapped it out for an audio taper 2K and added a 20 ohm resistor so it doesn't completely turn off. That works pretty good, not perfect, but way better than the stock 20K.
Another issue I came across is that it can't really handle more than 6 volts RMS even on the high level input. My sub impedance only drops down to about 3.7 which is well within range. If I turn the volume up the louder bass notes would cut out. I noticed the protect light would come on for second then go out. Adjusting the gain had no effect so I knew it had to be the input. I checked the signal on an oscope to make sure it wasn't getting a clipped. It was fine. My high level output does 8.0 volts clean. It just doesn't like input voltages above 6. I swapped it over from high-level to a 2 volt low level RCA input and it's doing fine.
I have the older model, well had. Its been through three cars and is currently residing in my sons ride on a few old 8's. Id buy these amps 100x over most sub $100.00 amps. Not only are they decent for the price (regardless of the "max" rating/marketing), they take the abuse of NON-bassheads like no other. If you look at marketplace youll likely see these and Kicker subs all the time in ALL states of condition (mostly horrible). People hate on "Wal-Mart audio" brands, but they are perfect for a person that doesnt need 5,000 watts on every component in their system, and/or the casual bass-heads. The remote isnt great though like someone said in another comment. It being plastic doesnt matter, no matter how much big D or anyone else may complain, its just the pot/control is practically worthless until around 10/11 o'clock position. Also, if by chance you DO destroy it as a casual/unknowing bass enthusiast, Wal-Mart will take it back within reason and /warranty/replace it. Also, if i remember correctly, the "warranty void" sticker doesnt mean anything as of a few years ago. Happy Fathers Day, and keep up with the good dynos!
Back when I first started getting into car audio again I got a skar rp2000 and had to warranty it 3 times cuz they had a permanent protect issue back then. While I waited I got one of these from Walmart to use till I got my other one back. They were 2 ohm stable but I wired to 1 ohm and must have had enough rise cuz it would run non stop no prob. It would get a bit hot, but did the trick. I was pretty impressed! Still returned it tho 😂
How did they warranty it? Did they do repairs on the same amp each time and never fixed the issue? Or did they swap it out and that model amp just had a design flaw?
I have one of each, a 1ohm and a 2ohm. The difference is the two fuses on the one side of it. I think the 1ohm has duel 40amp fuses and the 2ohm has duel 25amp fuses. I run both at 1ohm and the 2 ohm stable amp get a lot hotter then the 1ohm version. I got 4 DVC 4ohm 12” sub running 2 on the 1ohm version and 2 subs on the 2ohm version and the 2 ohm amp get a lot hotter. I’m currently looking for another 1ohm version of the rzr2500 watt amp
@@JuniorRedd-yk1ob oh wow! You’ve got the most insight of anyone yet. I still have this one for sale. You’re not in North Alabama are you? I’ve got it on MP for $75 currently.
2500 is made just for walmart its not even on PA website. its a budget banger though. i had the older 2ohm version of the 2500 and ran at 1ohm just fine.
As these eventually make their way to the used market, other than the 50 amp fuses how can someone tell the difference between the 1 ohm model and the older 30 amp model?
@@stereomojo chances are it’s deff a half bridge if it’s Korean made but they have made FB Amps but it’s rare and I think it’s been quite some time since they did
It’s the same amp. I seen some other channels that’s tested it before when it said 2ohm and they ran it at 1ohm on the dyno and it ran the test fine people said it was 1ohm stable they just weren’t selling it as so. I think it’s the same amp.
Quite a few good D class amplifiers are getting extremely efficient nowadays. The 10x fuse rating is getting to be a low baller estimate at dynamic levels. But there is skepticism about how accurate the DD1 is. Not questioning your results or integrity.See Parker the bass head latest video. AMM1 almost doubled the numbers at clipping, going by the other metering product. I am keeping my mind open about this.
I just wish you would run this amplifier to a lower ohm on your dyno test ? Several people has this amplifier right here and run it to a half a ohm !... I would like to know what can of power it puts out total ! ...
If those 2 thin aluminum based fuses can handle 100 amps of current being only about 16awg each then, 8awg copper is more than a sufficient input lead wire for this amp to perform at its rated potential.
All i see immediately is its 1 ohm stable,i use the previous one at 2 ohm on 2 r2d2 10in rockfords and its pretty decent for a total of 200 bucks worth of bass
I was thinking that the 5000w SoundXtreme amp was going to be small .... It takes up one side of a loveseat! It's gotta be 2.5 feet long.... The mail lady tried handing it to me out the window.... haha nah wasn't happening
The way i see it, youre showing us if the amp is legit. If it does what the box advertises, then more people will go to walmart and buy it. Youre giving the amp publicicity. No problem if you return it.
I don’t understand why monoblock dynos take up 90+% of the spaces’ videos. Ya gotta do what the majority approves of. Hit the like and subscribe button!
@@stereomojo I’d like to see more more of 6 channel amps. I may be different. I love to find ways to put lots of speakers in many places in to a vehicle. I’m also more SQ than SPL.
@@stereomojo there may be things I don’t understand. I was under the impression that resistors are added to the channels not being connected to the dyno. Giving a more realistic work on all channels.
@@stereomojo the only thing they changed was the name,fuses it comes with and the ability to be stable at 1 ohm. But like I said mine start at 1.33 or something like that below 2 and it works fine but with the 25 amp fuses I blew two of them both the same one in the amp in like 5 minutes for each one. I put two bigger ones in I had and it was fine and made me happier about the purchase knowing the old rule of fusing and power. I bought the amp on an emergency when the one I was using took a crap during a road-trip. Mine was really old and a friend gave it to me so this amp was an upgrade but the little Walmart I stopped at had only couple options and I literally chose this amp over the others because of price to weight of box ratio. At the time there was no info at all on the actual output and I knew it wasn’t 2500 but it was heavy. Let me tell you what when I opened the box and saw that little thing I was pissed like man I got screwed but I tried it anyways and it was hot out in the parking lot in Texas summer in a 68 Camaro with no a/c so I just wanted to get going so I put it in and glad I did.
Pre-2000's Power Acoustik Made their power. Same company that bought PPI bought Power Acoustik, Now only specific models of PPI makes rated Power and a tad more, the Black Ice amps are fair, and decent Power for the price.
@djkeys415s they really don't need to what? Make stated power? Sure they do CEA 2006 is a compliance act, if the box has that Label it must pass advertised numbers or what is stated in the manual. Manufacturers need to start being held accountable just as everyone else. If that label isn't on the box then it's just False advertisement.
Glad it makes "rated power", but naming it 1.2500 and saying on the box its 2500w is still misleading and shady. It shows their "quality" and target consumer. Pro tip: never buy a product that list "Max Power" on its packaging.
