Yes, Zenoah 50cc clones! I acquired 2 cylinders of 45mm bore, plus the one on my Alpina saw. Cyilinders have open single port on each side. I measured timing numbers for all of them. Thank you for your tutorial on using that digital angle meter! And now I'm scratching my head what to do with them. Numbers on one cylinder: EX: 105, TX:128, IN:72. Second cylinder: Ex:98, TX;124, IN:80. The one on the saw: EX:112, TX:132, IN:67. The saw doesn't rev high, but it does keep around 8 to 9k rpm in the cut with 18" bar. I don't need a longer bar, but I would like it get to the power a little higher in the rpm range. My first step with this saw will be to swap and try each of those cylinders, and see how the saw cuts with different port numbers.
Awesome work. I would love to see high contrast comparisons. Also would be really nice to see how you clean the cylinder and bottom end before reassembly!
Ive always wanted to see a video where you test a saw at all the stages of porting so people can see what each step gets for gains. Full Stock, stock + Muff mod; stock + muff mod + base gasket delete; muff mod + base delete + lower transfers opened; then a final test of muff mod + base delete + full port job
I agree.. And I think Joe should do a fully ported cyclinder and test longer vs short blow down...... Start at 25 degrees then 20 and 15 and dyno each step.....
That would be interesting to see just an exhaust mod, run on the dyno. Then add the intake mod and run on the dyno, and then a transfer mod, for a final dyno run to see the differences. Bit of an ask but would be cool to see
Nicely done video after my first time giving it a shot it seems like laying everything out is a big part of being successful. Your recent series on the process has been really helpful saving for my next attempt at porting.
Thanks Joe! I would really like a better understanding of how altering ports and durations tailors power characteristics for torque/RPM/narrow powerband/wide powerband/etc.
I know I might be late, but I would like to see simple man port bulid, so I think every one can grind on exhaust, intake, lower transfer, and probably find someone to cut the base(not likely a squishband), and see how the results goes. I gonna give a shoot these upper transfers one more time LoL I would love to see that grunt saw build, 50cc torque monster that would be so cool! As always, thanks for sharing tips and tricks :)
Nice video! I have to get one of those pen lights, a modified Christmas tree light has worked but one must be mindful of the wire :). A Stihl MS462 built for pulling a 28" & 32" in Hardwoods. Duel port vs. Larger single port comparison on a 461 & 462.
I cut some length off those long shaft burrs too… so you have some length but less chatter… those longer shaft burrs last pretty good for their price point… I like the little light through your plug hole idea there…👍😁
Great tutorial! Im just starting to play with porting, I'd like to see what a person can do with a cheap garage sale saw, like a 42cc craftsman or poulan... the 242xp and 42 special are little screamers, would be interesting to see what could be done with more readily available (and cheap!) saws.
I believe there is a lot of interest in the clone saws right now. Yes I know, the China thing. But people are snapping these things up by the handful and upgrading them with Hyway and Meteor top ends. I would love to see a few popular kit saws with baseline runs “as kitted” then runs with upgraded top ends then runs with upgraded top ends ported. With large cc saws running $1500-2200 these kits are popular.
THANKS, JOE. I WAS SURPRISED YOU DID NOT TOUCH THE INTAKE, BUT THE EPA 395 RAN LIKE MY OLD 394 WHEN YOU WERE DONE. YOUR OPINION CARRIES A LOT OF WEIGHT, AFTER ALL, "DYNO JOE" = "I CAN PROVE IT WORKS"... I'VE GOT A 58MM CHINESE-MADE 395 "BIG BORE" KIT, WHICH SHOULD TAKE MY WORK SAW FROM 94CC 100CC'S, BUT THE TRANSFERS ARE SO ANEMIC IT'S GOING TO TAKE A LOT OF WORK TO GET IT BREATHING. HAVE TO WAIT TILL AFTER XMAS...I'M THINKING ABOUT ROPE AND GRIT POWDER TO SHINE THE UPPERS USING A DRILL MOTOR WITH A SMALL PULLEY, BUT I'M CRAZY-IT'S JUST TOO MUCH FUN, AIN'T IT?
. More hobby/race stuff like putting a bigger carb on that g444 saw you built. Taking the cheaper stuff further out than you would do with a name brand saw to see where the limits are. I would like to see a dyno of the individual parts of a saw like dyno, remove air filter, dyno, shave carb blades, dyno, muffler mod , dyno , remove choke, dyno. The 372 would be a good saw for that demo:)
Joe it would be really cool to see a junk cylinder cut in half where it’s easier to see exactly what you are referring to as far as the angle of the transfers.
I would like to see hp difference from 16to1 to 32to1 to 50to1 I read some we're more oil will give more hp by filling all the Defects in cylinder to give u more compression
I did a 170. Very hard to port. Meaning very small. Also had to upgrade the carb to an adjustable one. But it did scream and run a lot stronger when I was done.
I understand taking material off the floor of the intake and the roof of the exhaust to change timing numbers. but what about the roof of the intake and floor of the exhaust how do you determine what to grind on them?
I don't normally mess with those . The exhaust floor dosent really do much at all. And some saws are really close to free port. Meaning the piston dosent seal off the exhaust port and the charge from the case can go right out. Intake roof adds more time area, but it can make a saw slow to respond. Or lazy.
Can you show how to port without having a timing wheel to mark the grinding sections on the cylinder wall? Hopefully it's not impossible and can be done with an acknowledgement of a considerable risk to engine performance but as you say if we're practicing on a cheap asian saw and not a genuine 3120XP the risk is somewhat considerably more acceptable * Good vid 👍
You really need to know/understand the port time/durations to decide where You are starting and where you want to go. If you know the stroke, rod length you can use some online calculator to determine port height. But a simple degree wheel and wire can be bought cheap. Or pint one off and glue it to a cd.
What's your take on the type of porting you would perform with 066 stihl combining the use of 3/8 10T and advancing the timing 8-10 degrees with a barkbox and improved air intake mod
Depending on bar size 10t may be a bit much. But short bar that could work, 8-10* seems like a lot of advance. It may want to kick back a bit and could even detonate.
Hello from Brazil my friend Can you try to help me, please? My chainsaw(chinese) has a problem with excessive compression. But when I remove the spark plug the piston rotates normally. Even placing your finger in thze spark plug opening causes the piston to become extremely compressed again. Yesterday I installed a completely new cylinder and piston, but the problem remains. I changed the spark plug, removed the carburetor and exhaust fan, and still the problem remains. Do you have any idea what it could be? Can I send you a video showing the problem? I have been seeking help with this mystery on various social media channels, Instagram, RU-vid, but no one has been able to guess what could be causing the problem.
What could I do to my 661 with out machine work? I’ve ported a few saws so I’m aware of port shape. Chamfer. And keeping aware of of where the ring pin is etc. I want to go in and get some gains. I am going to send out my 500i and get fully worked on. My 661 is my falling saw only running a 36”- 42” bars. Thanks. Anyone can chime in.
Hey guys. I'm a total newbie in saw porting and wanted to ask if somebody could explain to me what is the purpouse of "heart" shaped intakes? What effect does it give and in which situations shoud I use it?
@@dynojoemods2764 So more port area = more flow if I got it right. And I also think it's heart shaped with that thing sticking out in the middle so at BDC righs have support and they won't get hung up. Right?
