Power Steering Hose Replacement 2002 Honda Odyssey 

Excellent work. You are setting a higher standard for automotive "How to" repair videos on YT. I like the attention to detail and references to the documentation. Thank you.

This is the most detail oriented repair video I've seen. Thanks for sharing! Greetings from an architect.

That may be the best "DIY, How To, Help Video" I've ever seen. I'm getting ready to try and find a power steering fluid leak and this will really help me get started. I'm now already pretty confident I can do this...before watching....not so much. Thanks for posting this!

Outstanding description of the procedure, right down to the wrench sizes needed and tips to make it easier. Well filmed too.

My power steering high pressure hose leaked so I was going to watch the Ron Howard video about the Apollo 11 faked moon landing listed in the right side bar to get tips on how to replace it but as it turns out, this video was much better than Ron Howard's. Thanks much for the excellent instructions.

Very well done video - thanks! Completed this on a 2005. Same pieces, just in slightly different places. Flange nut was not in an easy place to reach, but it was easy to get the new line into place. Note - the OEM flange nut was 14mm, the replacement was 9/16th. I recommend you check it before you get it in place. I drained as much fluid as I could and cleaned the reservoir before I refilled with Honda PS fluid. Did not run the car, just turned the wheel back and forth still on the jacks. It sucked and burped down the fluid in the reservoir twice and was full (about 1.8 pints). Steering is working just fine. I'll be honest - I farted around with this project 2 nights about 6 hours total, but I was really taking my sweet time (PS system newbie).

Thank you very much for the video, Mr. Worsethanchiggers. It was very helpful! I managed to replace this hose on my 2003 Odyssey. A couple of comments (hope someone will find them as useful as I found this video): 1. While removing the old hose, it is easier to cut off the tube at the nut (someone suggested this above, and I definitely second this suggestion) and use a 14mm socket (unless you want to keep the old hose). 2. Feed the new hose from the top (next to the pump). I tried everything before this, and nothing worked (I could force it through but did not want to bend anything). 3. My new hose (generic, not Honda) actually had a 9/16 in nut instead of 14 mm, but I had just the right flare nut wrench, so it was not a problem. So, make sure that you have a 9/16 in wrench available just in case. 4. I actually discovered that my power steering pressure switch was not connected. Looks like the electric wires got torn somehow years ago. My understanding is that this switch regulates idle rpms (when you are trying to make a sharp turn while a car is not moving), so I did not bother trying to reconnect it (just installed it on the new hose to plug the hole). So far, did not notice any problems. Be careful installing this switch though, don't over-tighten. 5. Definitely put some masking tape on all openings while putting this hose in place, and frequently check that the tape did not get off. 6. Cover the belts when you disconnect the old hose from the pump - you do not want to spill power steering fluid on any of the belts which are right below it. Good luck to whoever is going to attempt this! This is definitely doable. The hardest part for me was to actually put this hose in place. Connecting it after that (and disconnecting the original hose) was rather straightforward. Having all the right tools certainly helps.

I really like the way this job was documented. You instill good common sense and confidence through patience and exacting standards compared to your youtube competition.

What a fantastic video and talk through.This is one of best demonstrations I have seen. Great camera close ups with clear instructions and guidance. Thank you so much!!

I just did this on my wife's 2006 and that flare nut was a massive pain to get loose. I had to take off the air cleaner box because it was totally inaccessible from below. Your video helped me a lot. Thank you for making it and posting it.

Great video. I just did this project and thought I'd add my recommendations/comments: 1) Got Edelmann (aka, Parts Master?) aftermarket hose, because I could get 2-day shipping through Amazon Prime and it was only $44 for a used one (open package return.) Seemed to work fine, but I needed to slightly bend the rigid portion to match the original shape, so keep your old one and line them up to make these adjustments. Also, the pressure switch is on a T fitting rather than a Y, so you need to cut the closest wire harness connector for the connector to reach. Discard the smaller o-ring and ignore the instructions that say it is needed on the flare nut, as it is NOT needed. 2) Use jack stands rather than ramps, so you can remove the wheels. Much easier access and you can flush and bleed the system manually by repeatedly turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock, with the engine off. 3) Cut off the old line, flush with the end of the flare nut and then use a 15mm socket to remove the flare nut. Don't try other methods first, as that just buggers up the nut and makes it harder to get the socket on. Use plenty of PB Blaster first. 4) Attach a string to the end that had the flare nut, so that it traces the path as you pull the old hose assembly out. 5) Disconnect the pressure switch electrical connector. 6) To remove old line, first move the hard portion of the line toward the driver side a bit. Then pull the flexible portion of the hose down and push it straight through the passenger side wheel well. From below, work the assembly out, toward the passenger side, above the tie rod boot. It takes some wiggling, but you can do this with the pressure switch attached. 7) Tape the openings, then tie the string to the new line at the flare nut and have a helper gently pull the string as you guide the assembly back through from the passenger wheel well toward the drive side. I was able to attach the pressure switch ahead of time. Double the flexible end over and stove it over the tie rod boot, reversing the removal gyrations. 8) Get the rigid pipe nearly into position and then make any needed tweaks to the final bends. Install the flare nut first and tighten most of the way, with a 15mm flare nut wrench. Then install the 3 clamps, reusing the original rubber bushings. Finish tightening the flare nut. 9) Fill the reservoir and turn the steering wheel manually, lock-to-lock to work the air out. Check often to add fluid. 10) Say a prayer, fire it up, check for leaks and turn the steering wheel back and forth under power until the fluid level stops dropping. 11) Have a refreshing beverage.

I want to say. Ty for the tip on line wrenches . I was under there trying to us a box wrench and noticed it wasn't going to do it. Every video I watched on this ,none of them introduced the flare head wrench set.

Thanks for this video..... It helped me out a great deal. I'm not even a novice and was able to complete my job. Thanks again!!!!

this was one of the best how to vids I've seen very detailed. I watched it 3 times to see exactly what I was in for and it was exactly what I expected (including the cursing) lol. great vid thanks

Outstanding video! There's another video for the next generation Odyssey and the guy recommends inserting the new hose with the side that mounts to the pump first, from underneath the van - he also recommends attaching a wire to the old one and pulling it out from under the van, this will help when you replace the new one, I am going to try this when I get the new hose this weekend.

Excellent video - Your video was spot on, full of great advice, and the leak is fixed! My teenage son and I just replaced the high pressure power steering hose on our 2007 Odyssey. The hose itself was $197 from the Honda dealer, but we saved over $300 on labor costs doing it ourselves. The 2007 seemed to have less clearance than the 2002, but we persevered. After trying an open end wrench, flare nut wrench, and vise grips, we ended up just cutting the metal tube off at the flare nut and using a socket. I would recommend cutting the metal tube to anyone doing this repair and not waste time trying to loosen the nut. We were very careful to watch how the old hose came out and replacing with the new hose took only a few minutes.

Nice job. I liked the way you didn't edit out the difficulty of removing the flare nut and showing that it is better to use a flare wrench. Thanks.

I successfully rebuilt my 99 ody power steering pump based on your last great video, and I'm look forward to replacing this hose when it starts leaking. Thanks for another excellent how to video!

LOL...you shoot pb blaster like I do! Everywhere but where we need it at first. Glad I'm not the only one who does the 'hit or miss' routine in hard to get to areas. Thanks for the tips/tutorial. Well done!!

Amazing video, thank you so much. I had the exact same leak in the exact same spot and had the identical problem with the tough nut that needed the line wrench. Great tips and advice that saved my family at least $500 and only cost me a Saturday afternoon and some sanity from extracting and reinstalling the hose. I would pay for this level of quality instruction when my Odyssey gets a problem. Let me know if you have a donation location!

Thanks. Great instructional video. 5. stars . I could only wish other mechanical videos online were as clear and concise and accurate as yours are. again, thank you very much. I too had the exact same issue. Got a rebuild kit and followed your video on the power steering pump rebuild only to discover that the top high pressure hose had failed by leaking.

What an incredible service. Great vid! Thank you. I highly recommend before changing the pump, use the yellow dye and a black light flashlight. My leak was also in the hose, not the more expensive pump. Yellow Dye $8 any auto parts store (specifically for oil fluids) and $8 black light at Harbor Freight. You don't need the expensive kit at auto parts store with yellow glasses. It will show leak with black light.

This was a very well done video. I used it to fix the power steering line on my **2005** Odyssey ... it worked perfectly. Here are some further notes and observations on this video that will help you to use it to fix your odyssey. 1) the vehicle is raised on ramps under the front wheels ... this works fine. The wheels do not have to come off. 2) doing the line-nut down on the power steering rack first works great (before taking off any of the line hold-down bolts). On the 2005, that hook the line takes (down by the nut) at the end of the power steering line is not there and so that line nut is accessible from towards the center of the car (laying on your back) AND FROM THE TOPSIDE, right in through the engine compartment on the drivers side (big arms make this a painful squeeze though). A milk crate to stand on works just ducky to be able to reach into the engine bay when the vehicle is high, up on ramps. 3) yes, you really need to use a "line wrench" (with its "C" end) with an extension to get it loose. 4) the lower line hold downs (the rubber bushings with the clamps on them) are accessible by laying on your back under the vehicle with your feet sticking out the front of the vehicle. 5) the use of the bungee cord in the video is a great tip when you are doing the job by yourself. 6) fwiw - a small hand mirror will help you while you are doing the job to see where nuts/bolts are located better. 7) everything else should be done in the sequence and method as shown in the video. THANKS AGAIN to the original poster. Actually a repair with very little headache using the info in the video!

I watched this video three times, then did this repair. It took about 3 hours, a second pair of hands, jackstands and a 3 ton jack, and it works real well to take off both front tires. This was super frustrating. I'm no mechanic, but with the help of this video, and the above mentions add on's I did it. A mechanic friend says I'm a badass for even attempting this repair and that if I took this to a shop it would have cost me over $300.00 +parts. (100.00+). So, I guess thanks are in order, but man it was hard!

Thanks. Made me realize I would go insane routing that hose out and back in. Saved me some sanity!

I love RU-vid SO much - thank you for this - my husband is a genius with fixing things and this will help - or at least decide if it's worth just paying someone for it. But it's an over $400 repair.

I just wanted to thank you for the great video! I appreciate you attention to detail. I wasn't sure if my high pressure line was leaking on my 2004 Acura mdx, or if it was the pump. Thanks to you video I found my high pressure line was leaking is the exact same spot. The subframe on the mdx makes this job a bit more challenging, but your video definitely helped me. Thank you!

Great video! Very clear and full of details and the gotcha steps that usually frustrate you when you DIY. Motivates me to change mine myself... Will let you know how it turns out!

Excellent video thanks for showing the detail - the patience required in routing the line cant be shown on video - but because of your patience this is a great resource for many to use - Many thanks for both videos - Great Job!

I've done work this tedious before on a car and for people like you to film it while you do it all by yourself is just amazing. Thank you sir. Subbed and liked! Your black and white and furry companion could have been more helpful 😆

Thanks for detailed instructions. I think I will undertake this after all.

Well done!! I was about to toss out the van - now you've inspired me to repair the line - excellent tutorial!!

Great job. I was going to do this myself but after seeing how difficult it was for a pro I opted to save a weekend and do it myself. Thanks again for a very good video.

You seriously saved me with this video. Thank you very much

Great video. If anyone gets stuck taking any sort of line off, as long as you are replacing it you can cut the line off next time the nut then use a regular box end wrench.

Haven't seen one yet that didn't leak there eventually. Thanks for the content!

thank you very much, after much headache i think you have solved my problem. as a non mechanic and new at owning a car this will be a pain in the butt, your video makes the task easier !! thanks again

Thank you for making this video I would have not replaced the cracked hose myself on my odyssey 2000 if not for your video. Nearly gave up trying to feed the line. I used original Honda parts but the pipe run between the two rubber supports was originally bent as a hump unlike what I saw from the video which was straight. Took me 6 hours to feed the line.. Lol.. Thank you for making this video.

nice work, I cant believe I watched the whole thing. Appreciate the flare nut wrench tip. Just have to keep thinking about the guy who does this twice a day, every day...second time is easier!!

Wow! Wish I'd looked at this Video before I replaced the pump....oh well. Well done, clear, and full of suggestions for tools and parts. Pay attention to his comment on the two bolts on top of the pump; I managed to strip one of them over torquing it down.

OUTSTANDING VIDEO!!! I know that was harder than it looked- very very well done, sir!! Thanks for the video!! It's gonna help out BIG time!!!!!!

EXCELLENT video. I'm just preparing to do this myself and now I have a good primer as to how it will go. Thanks!

Thank you very much! I carefully followed step by step your video. However my flare nut was very easy to untight. my 2000 Odyssey has now 280k km. no more money to waste in garage at 100$/h . It took me 2 hours, beer and music included. Don't let your hose leak during 2 weeks by adding of power steering everyday for a total of one gallon. You will make a mess as I did on my garage floor.

This guy had good filming this video , way to go. I understood and learned everything he did... THAK YOU.

Great video........huge help. Appreciate you taking the time to walk us through the process. Fliming it was excellent!

I've been needing to do this for a while but wasn't confident enough to do it since I'm not mechanically inclined. Now I feel I can do it with no probs. Great video!

Awesome video!! For a novice diy’er like me, I feel confident I can do this. I just rolled over 383k on my 02.

I used a string around the flare nut side to help PULL the hose into its new location. Fishing in and out was most diff part of the job. A 9/16 line wrench is close enough to use when removing the old tight nut (9/16 =.5625" ; 14mm = .55") .

Great video. I think this must happen a lot with these vans. It looked like mine had been replaced before. I bought a flare nut wrench just for this and it still started to strip that bolt. I ended up soaking it overnight in penetrating grease and using vice grips the next day. Pulling the hose out and back in from the passenger wheel well worked good.

I took on that same project, removal was bad enough , feeding the rigid pipe!!!, after about 3hours, went to the parts store, ask if it was acceptable to cut the metal pipe and rejoin with a brass coupling, was told that was a common practice, YES!!! That was about a year ago, no leaks

I am glad to hear that you TOLD US WRONG> at 3:52. I spent an hour trying to get the single flare nut off.... buggered it up good. So when you said the high press line was one of the other ones, I was very worried. I ended up having to use Vise grips with a flat jaw. Glad that I am not using that nut again. thnks for the correction.I did the same thing as you, I replaced the pump then found the hose was bad....

Thank you for this excellent video on how to rebuild the power steering hose.

Felicidades, es un vídeo magnifico. Muchas Gracias. Yo me dedico a la mecánica. pero creo que nunca podre hacer un vídeo con tanta dedicación Congratulations, is a magnificent video. Thank you very much. I am dedicated to mechanics. but I think I could never do a video with such dedication

EXCELLENT, DETAILED STEP BY STEP VIDEO. KEEP WRENCHING.

Awesome vid. Thanks for not editing out some of your struggles.

Sir you have lots of time and patience.. God 🙏 Bless

One of the best how to videos I ever seen❗❗❗👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍awesome

Great video. Thanks. Even with line wrench, the nut got stripped coming off. Good locking pliers finally made quick work of it. Took a few hours, but I got it......almost. Flare connection is now leaking and I've already loosened it, checked and re tightened. Still leaking. Arg!

Thanks for posting this video I had a leak in the same exact spot tried using J-B Weld it held for like a week and then started to leak again it was time to put in a new hose fought like heck to get it out and a little to get it in getting the flare nut started was the hardest part how to lower the jack a little bit to get the flare nut to go in flush how to put on leather gloves to get more strength and grip to get the flare nut started once I got that started I was home free with a little help From my awesome wife I don't know a lot about cars so these videos help tons may the Lord bless you for helping not only me but many others God bless

Well documented and love the cleanliness of work. Also, using the right tool for the job.

Thanks for your video. I have a 2007. It seems to the the same layout. I was going to take it to the dealer but after seeing your video I will try it myself. thanks!

Many thanks for your very detailed video. Well done. It does motivate me to replace the hose on my Pilot 2003 with leak at lower end of the hose.

Just did this repair on my 2007 Odyssey with 157k miles. Almost identical hose and procedure. A couple of notes for the 05-07 Odyssey's: 1. I used a 14mm crow's foot flare nut wrench, rack was very easy to undo. 2. Get the Honda hose for $150. I bought aftermarket for $110 and did it not include the 3 rubber mounts. But I was able to cut them off the old hose and reuse them. And to add insult to injury, the 14mm hex at the steering rack was a 9/16" on the new hose so my flare nut wrench would not work. Luckily I was able to tighten it enough with a regular 9/16" crows foot. 3. The hose will come out and go back in very easily from the bottom on these year models. Literally 1 minute. 4. The hardest part for me was putting the center of 3 hose clamps back on. 5. Keep everything loose until you get the rack started, it is a bit tricky to get it aligned right so it doesn't cross thread.

Great video. Just finished the job last night. Can confirm figuring out how to get the hose out, and the new one into position is really frustrating and difficult. (esc with the car on ramps and you're lying underneath. A lift would make it a lot easier). I'd say good ramps are a minimum requirement for the job. Also, Harbor Freight has both flair nut wrench set $15 and o ring set $5. If you don't have the wrench set I would add that to the list of required tools. The hose is really hard to get out of the wrack. I would say without the flair nut wrench, you probably won't be able to get it loose.

Well, this job is "worse than chiggers." But this vid is great instruction. I add: Do like this guy and buy the Honda part. Autozone's was rusted at the sensor threading, and didn't line up at the steering housing. I had to gently bend it. But you can do as he did, painstakingly thread it through without removing anything else (I did loosen a hose guide and shift it). Great vid. Thanks!

Good video. I haven't done it yet but I think I'm going to tie a very long string to the wheel end on the hose before I start pulling it back through the car. Then after getting the hose out, I'm going to tie the string to the new hose to feed it back. Only doing this to make sure that I'm routing the new hose correct.

A couple of things make this much easier. First, since you are changing the hose and discarding the old hose, don't worry about how baddly you mangle it - I had to use an 8 inch pipe wrench to get it loose. I tried a 14mm flare nut wrench but no luck. Could not get enough leverage on it to remove it. The pipe wrench did the trick and it loosened up. Secondly, before you pull out the old hose, tie a string to it so you can see the path needed to get the new hose into proper position. Then you will find, it is much easier to put the new hose in from underneath. First thing to do is to disconnect the Oxygen sensor that goes to the exhaust. Then remove the connector from the bracket and push it out of the way. Then, start on the driver's side behind the cross beam that the hose was attached to with the 2 brackets , insert the rubber part of the hose through to the passenger side - not too far because then you will insert the tube with the flare nut into the other side where the old one used to go - just follow the string with regards to where to put it. Once you get the tube in to where you can see it from the driver side wheel well and it is nearly in position to connect back up (it should be at the wrong angle at this point) go back to the hose on the passenger side. You should be able to move it past the bracket next to the bracket that held the oxygen sensor, and into proper position while also working up the hose to the power steering pump - this part is easier if you have someone to help and pull it up from above. The hose should move up towards the PS pump and the person underneath can make any additional adjustments to the positioning - which should be much easier without the oxygen sensor in the way. Once the tube is in place underneath, do not attach the brackets until you are sure you can properly thread the flare nut back into the steering rack. I applied some anti-seize lubricant to the nut (a very small amount) so if I need to do this again, it won't be such a pain in the butt to get that nut loose. It is difficult to get much of the nut in by hand - start it with your fingers and then use an open end wrench/box wrench to gently tighten it until it starts to become snug. Then go back under and attach the 2 clamps and then lastly the clamp on the back of the engine. Attach the connector to the power steering pump and then go back underneath and tighten the flare nut on the steering rack with a flare nut wrench. Re-check your connections and tighten as needed. Do not over-tighten on the aluminum pump or the flare nut on the steering rack. Then go back underneath and put the 2 clamps back on in the proper positions. The clamps have tabs that go into notches on the cross beam. The clamp on the driver side is easy as it is right in front of you when underneath. The other is on top of the cross beam so it can be a bit more difficult. Get the tab into the notch and then thread and finger tighten the bolt and use the socket with a short extension on it by hand and then as it gets tight, use a ratchet. Tighten the other clamp and then go back up top and install the clamp on the back of the engine. Go to the passenger sid wheel well and put the oxygen sensor female plug back onto the bracket and then go back underneath and reconnect the oxygen sensor. From the passenger side wheel well, you should be able to reconnect the PS pressure sensor as well. Make sure your connections are tight and then bleed the power steering. Some of the videos on this said it took hours to get the new hose back into the car. Doing it from underneath, made it much faster. In total, it took an hour to get it back in. But, had I known to remove the oxygen sensor connector from the bracket, I would have been able to shave off about 15 or 20 minutes. Also, approaching it from underneath makes much more sense as you run the tube up to the driver side to the steering rack and the flexible hose through to the passenger side. was much smoother than trying from the side (I tried that too and found it to be a real pain.) Also, I did not have to bend the tube at all to get it back into proper position. Good luck!

Great video. Good prep so I knew what I was getting into. I did my struts, tie rod ends, and stabilizer bars right away so itvwas pretty easy to get the hose out through the passenger side wheel well.

Very nice thorough job and explanation. Pleasure to watch.

Thanks for the videos. The power steering ones have really been helpful.

Great job and congrats for doing it by yourself

This video was very helpful and saved me a lot of time!

Yesterday, I had the power steering hose remade for my 2004 Odyssey. It's a specialty hose and rubber shop that does commercial, marine, automotive, or anything pertaining to hoses & connectors. They replaced all the cracked hose with a new one cut to length, and fastened it to the old fittings. They charged only $20, which saved me from buying a new one at a parts store for $96. All I had to do was replace the little O ring at the pump connector.

I used an aftermarket hose and it was fine. I did have to bend the hard line on the new part to match the OEM so the flare nut would thread in. The whole job took me 3 hours, from setting up the ramps till end of cleanup, and that included a trip to the store to buy a proper line wrench. I would suggest anyone use ramps or a lift for this job though. Made it much easier to work the hose in and around and get it into position.

I changed this on my 2000 honda van and video was very helpful. I also broke the clip that plugs into sensor on the line. Everywhere was telling me they had to order from honda dealer. I found it on Rockauto.com for like $14 and had it in no time. Very satisfied with rockauto and would recommend them if you can wait a couple days for a part. Again this video was very helpful. Thank you for posting.

Excellent very clear video. It helped me on my 2005 Odyssey.Thanks!

Thanks for posting this video. It was very helpful. My Odyssey has the same problem. That's a lot of work and struggle to replace the hose. I don't have a garage and winter time is not ideal season to do it yourself. I'll have to check with the shop to see how much they'll charge. Thanks again

Excellent video! Everything about it was so well done. Thank you for the help.

I connected jet line (thin nylon line used for pulling electrical wires through conduits) to the bottom end of the hose so that when I pulled it out of the car I could see exactly where it went through engine compartment. It allowed me to pull the string (connected to the new hose) down and back through the engine compartment while my buddy fed me the hose. I was really happy I did this, because coarse the hose took through the compartment was fairly complicated.

I had no trouble getting mine off with the open end wrench as you did, but I went and bought crowfoot wrenches that again hit at more points so I could torque mine on there at 18 ft-lbs.

Removing the flare nut is very difficult. My tip is this. As a LAST RESORT cut /saw the tube off close to the nut and use a socket wrench on the flare nut. (The old hose is trash anyway) . It may even be easier now to wiggle the tube out through the car. NOW I SERIOUSLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU FLUSH THE SYSTEM before reassembling to remove any metal pieces that may have gotten into the plumbing.

thank you so much - i am doing the same procedure on my jaguar x type. You have shown me some great tips - much appreciated :)

Few suggestions. Remove the tires for easier access. Just cut up the old hose in pieces to remove part instead of spending time fishing it out. Put the pressure sensor back on through the wheel well area after the hose is fished through into place.

I just tackled this today and have a few tips for yall.. Only use honda line!!! All the after market lines will leak after a month- year later and you'll be doing the job again.. Most dealers are going to ask $250+ for Honda line,but hondaautomotiveparts has them for $146+9 shipping. Get some honda fluid if you can.our whole system went dry for about a month and we ended up using about 4 bottles to fill and bleed..if you are just doing the line without too much leakage you'll probably only need a bottle. its not that bad of a job.just try and get the van up high enough yet safe to work under.. try to have a 2nd person around to help pull out the old hose and feed the new in back in. Tie a string to the rack end of the line before you pull the old one out.it will save you so much time in trying to figure out how to route the new line and keep you from needing to pull it back out. The sensor o ring is a 8mm x 2mm.auto part store should have them loose,if not grab one of the o ring packs for $8 or so. If the sensor wires have broken like mine were and you know how to solder,you can pull the harness out with the line,then pop the black plug out of the back of the harness where the broken wires are,carefully trim the plastic of the harness around the wires with some small snips,then strip off the wire Insulation so that you can solder new wires to the harness.use some heat shrink where you solderd then some hot glue all around the wires to stop water from getting into the harness from the rear. Now for the other end of the wires on the van,you need to get the broken wires up from down around the cv joint and get it up to the top of the fender so that you can have room to reattach the harness to them. I solderd all those connections. If your pump is bad,you most likely can rebuild it.get a rebuild kit,but they don't sell the main pump baring ANYWHERE!!!.however that bearing is the exact same size as a John deere,craftsman riding lawn mower dech spindle bearing and advanced auto sells them for around $6 each.just make sure to take out a seal on one side of the bearing so that it can get lubed while in the pump. it took my girl and i about 5 hours. roughly hour-2 to get the line fully in and out,about another hour or more to fix the harness and wires,another solid hour of bleeding all the dam air out,and I went ahead and did an oil change while I was under there. If you have a pressure washer use it afterwards to rise the engine bay and under the van and get all the old oils off. Now go have fun!!

Very good video. I was give great instructions from your video. Everything worked just like clock work. Thanks again for you expertise!!!!!!

LATE TO THE GAME BUT VERY THROUGH EXPLANATION. Instant fan.

excellent video... God bless you.. it really helped me... you are a professional

5:05. It may sound crude, but before springing for a set of line wrenches, I'd get out my Vise-Grips. If that didn't work, I'd cut off the line and use a standard 14mm socket to remove the flange nut. Great video though. Thanks for posting!

Very informative and excellently done video! Thank you Very Much for this, Sir!

Great video. I did this over the weekend. Thanks for sharing

Thank you for this video. It was a huge help for a very tedious job. Everything was not smooth. Next time , if there is a next time . I'm taking it to a garage . The biggest pain was the flare nut , Mine must have been replaced before the first threads where bummed up in the rack. Which made it more of a bear to line up and get started . But all said and done , no leaks . Took my wife accord to the shop , it took them 3 hours and they have a lift , I was working on the odyssey on ramps . Had to take several breaks because I was loosing my patients . You would thing the after market would make a 2 piece replacement to make the job easier , but........

Just a tip for maneuvering the hose in place. I removed the right front tire and inserted the hose from the that end directly. It took only 3-4 min.

Thank you for doing this video - I found it while looking for the same information on a 2005 Pilot. After my initial survey, it looks much the same. Anyhow - looking for a similar Pilot video - thanks!

thanks for the advice. I was thinking of doing just that. cutting the tube line, to get an open wrench on the nut, or an extracter. I think that is my best option now. on this 2007 the line is configured differently than that 2002 Honda. I have less space for levarage.

I really enjoyed watching your video. Thank you!!!

Thank you!! This is very helpful.

Very clear. Thank you. Is it too much to ask for other parts of your car to mess up so that you can make more videos for us? :) Kidding....... sorta.

Well video. My leak exactly the same location. Thanks for post this helpful video.

Awesome! I also was thrown away by them using that same term. Thanks a lot for confirming.

Thanks for this outstanding video! I have a 2000 Odyssey with 200k miles - I changed the hose per the video, however the power steering is now growling when I turn the wheel hard right. It seems there might be air in the line.