personally i am a Chevy man, but that's just a matter of personal preference, worked on many explorers, that's manly due to fact there's so many of them out there, one of the best selling, so there must be a reason for that, they have there problems but all and all i say there pretty good. thanks for checking out my channel. hope that helped, will
Xcelent video. Like most I'm following your video to the tee and its helping much. The one thing you didn't mention or maybe your xplorer is config'd differently but in order for me to spin that rack to get the steering knuckle outside the front cross frame I had to disconnect the transmission cooling lines attached to radiator and get 'em the heck out the way. after that it went just like you showed. Thanx again.
Why didn't you keep saying what size all the bolts are?!? I'm doing this right NOW and don't know what size boots are holding the rack in place on top of the crossbar
With the 5.0L RWD, I took off the motor mounts and lifted the engine a bit. Gave me plenty of room to rotate it. I fought with it for a couple hours before that. I did not remove the inner tie rod
my power steering line is leaking and auto zone says they dont have that line but the kid seemed a little slow can i use brake line to replace it or what?
I’m working on a 2002 Ford Explorer 4 wheel drive. Everything’s loose. Looks like it should come out the drivers side. However, A arm is just in the way alittle. Im thinking of removing the front bolt, controlling the spring shock absorber with a floor jack. This would get the arm out of the way enough to pull the power steering unit out. Just a little leery of that front spring. Chilton manual says pull spring and shock absorber then drop control arm down out of the way. Any thoughts?
Will, something blew on the power steering of my '98 F-150, 5.4L, and all the fluid drained out. Thinking that it was the high pressure hose between the power steering pump and the gearbox (it was all corroded and nearly fell apart in my hand), I just replaced the high pressure hose. On refilling the reservoir and running the truck, it all leaked out again. It looks like it's coming from the gearbox itself, but I still haven't been able to pinpoint the leak. Would it make sense that it would be a seal on the rack and pinion?
I just replaced the steering rack on my 1997 ford explorer v6 sohc This video was a little misleading. The rack will not slip through by the cross member on the passenger side. It hit the lower crossarrm. To get the steeering rack out i had to disconnect the lower crossmember on the passenger side and also loosen the screw for the torsion bar so I could make enough space to slide the old steering rack through. Just a fyi!!!
I'm stuck trying to get the power steering line off in a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer.. What do you suggest? It seems to be in a tight spot, doesn't look as easy to do as in the video.. I even tried removing the top bolt.. Do I need a special socket or wrench to go over the line? Thanks in advance..
if you have a v8 explorer its ten times harder to replace rack lot of time lapse on this video even with 4.0 if you have a v8 let it leak this is not for the backyard
That's right. You have to edit out all the prying, hammering, swearing, twisting the rack this way and that way. I bet the V8 would be more difficult. This job is not for newbs.
You really saved me a big headache man I watched one video and the guy took the drivers side inner tie rod out! So I kept looking until I came across your video and taking that swaybar off was a whole bunch easier to get that rack out of their!! I have been a mechanic for over 60 plus years and somebody else sometimes has a better idea! I love Utube and it really helps me out especially when its a vehicle that Im not all that familiar with and lets face it theres a ton of them out there! Anyway Im now subscribed to your channel and I will more than likely be using you for something else in the future! Thanks!
I'm stuck trying to get the power steering line off in a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer.. What do you suggest? It seems to be in a tight spot, doesn't look as easy to do as yours.. I even tried removing the top bolt.. Do I need a special socket or wrench to go over the line? Thanks in advance..
I used an 18 mm 90 open end wrench. Then put an adjustable wrench on the end of it to turn it. It was very difficult and could only get about a half of a flat turned at a time.
@@Truthridersride My neighbor helped me using a crows foot.. We finally got the pan off by raising the engine, & dropping the oil pump. That was 2 days ago, it took us til 5 in the morning, mainly because he did more talkin than anything.. We are getting ready to put everything back together today.. Wish us luck.. I never want to do this again!!!
Thanks for being so detailed. Great diy video. When I need a mechanic, I look through videos to see if the work can be a diy job. I find the best video for my husband and I to use when we become a diy mechanic team to save money. Thanks for helping with the little details, sometimes, those are the most important.
Most these Sport Tracs require you to remove the outer tie rods ends. Then turn the steering shaft all the way right remove the rack on the driver side. Then turn the steering shaft all the way left and it comes out the rear. No need to remove the torsion bar.
SO I WAS DOING THIS TODAY.. N TOMORROSW, SAME VEHICLE JUST WITH V8. NOT SURE IF THE V8 OIL PAN HANGS LOWER OR WHAT, BUT I HAVE NO ROOM TO FLIP RACK WITHOUT IT CATCHING ON BOTTOM OF OIL PAN. SPENT 2 HOURS LITERALLY JUST TRYING TO FLIP AND OR FIGURE OUT HOW TO FLIP. HITS OIL PAN NO MATTER WHAT. SOLUTION BY CHANCE????
Same here. I ended up taking the driver's side boot off and getting the inner tie rod off for more clearance. I was able to pull out the valve body side through the driver's side then slid it out.
This was a very helpful video. Exchanged the rack on my 98 Ranger over the weekend. The high pressure fitting at the rack is much easier to access when the rack is loosened from the cross member and can be shifted to the passenger side. An 18mm wrench worked for me. Also reinstalling the lines before returning the rack to the cross member gives plenty of room to access the fittings on the re-install. Also, Your video had nothing about the check valve that is to be removed from the old rack high pressure port and then installed in the new rack. I had a bear of a time removing it. It didn't just fall out as other directions seemed to imply. The other difference which you didn't have to deal with, the radiator hoses. I had to drain the radiator and remove the bottom hose in order to turn the ports so I could slide it through for removal. It was much tighter than it looked for you. I began to think I was going to have to remove the inner tie rod to get it out. But I was able to finally get it out in one piece. I did remove the outer tie rods before sliding it through. The new one went in a little tighter but after scraping some paint off the lines the goal was achieved. I reinstalled the outer tie rods after I had the new rack in. Thanks again for the visual aid. Hope the added issues helps someone on their ranger.
Bob, what was the exact wrench you used for the high pressure line? My Craftsman does not have the flats in the right spot even with rack loose. thanks.
around 9:15 in the video you can see i used an extension from the front side. not easy as you can tell from the comment i made after. on out i used a long chisel put it in the notch to open the gap with a couple taps it slid right off.
@MrRyderjeremy its a craftsman i love it, i cant think of the model off the top of my head, however if you have a chance swing over to my website toolsandtime. com join the free forum, i cover this in the tool thread. there's been allot of interest in it, thanks for the compliment
For those of you with the v8 model, this process will not work. You have to loosen engine mounting nuts and jack up the engine a little, then move the top of the rack towards the back of the vehicle. There is a brake line that will prevent you from doing that. There are two clips that hold it on, one the back of the crossmember and one on the side of the frame. If you take it loose from the clips then you can get the top of the rack past it towards the rear of the vehicle. Then you can slide the rack to the passenger side until your tie rod clears the crossmember. Push the tie rod to the back then slide the rack to the driver side and out towards the back of the truck. If you still can’t get it out, remove the driver side shock and spin the top of the rack down and around until it’s almost pointed towards the front of the truck then pull it out through the upper and lower control arms. I was able to get mine out that way without taking the tie rods off. It is impossible to get out out through the front on a v8 like this video shows and like the repair manuals say.
Very helpful video but exactly HOW did you get the rack rotated and out once everything was disconnected. I shifted it toward the passenger side and started rotating it forward but the stud that connects it to the steering column hits the underside of the oil filter bracket. I might have it to far to the passenger side but it seems to be the only way I can get the most forward rotation out of it. It also seems like the main body is hitting the underside of the oil pan. Any suggestions on technique, tools, etc. used to actually complete the removal process would be greatly appreciated.
@abbondanza23 it took me awhile to get the hang of the editing thing, its getting easier. with that i hope it gets better as well, im happy for you man, glad i could help out. the best part is you did it.
how did you get the pinch bolt from the steering column and T45 hex bolt and move the boot to get to it to allow to R&P to drop down so that it could be removed?
Great video, thanks for the info. on what size wrenches you were using or going to be using nice touch. I have a Ranger pretty much the same unit. Mine does not leak but seems harder to steer than my pre - 2001 Rangers. Any ideas if that is the Rack or the Pump?? No leaks or obvious wear. Thanks Steven
Thank you!!I I pulled the rack and pinion on my 02 Ranger. Almost exactly the same as the explore you have there!! I can tell you how helpful this video was. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
My group had to replace a rack-and-pinion on a 2003 Saturn Vue at our Vocation School. Wow... We had to remove the whole exhaust piping and Steering wheel before we could even reach it. Aside from all of the bs though, the toughest part definitely had to be accessibility. I think we spent 2 hours in all trying to put the power steering line back on, just because of the simple fact that it was blocked by the frame of the car. Whoever has to do this, good luck.
+Ryan CHRISTOPHER I never understood that Ford, GM deal,i love all kinds of and have owned all kinds of cars, they all have their pros and cons, do you really think GM cars never break down? i use to have a buddy that had a Camaro and another a silverado that were in the shop every month, Ive been driving a 5.0 mustang since 1991 (25 years) EVERY DAY, it takes me back and fort to work and it has had its share of replacement parts just like any other car, nothing out of the ordinary, the whole GM is better or FORD is better argument has always struck me as kinda childish, don't you think is kinda childish Ryan?
