What is PHANEK : The dress of the women (Manipuri) when of good quality is picturesque and pleasing. During the hot weather it consists of a piece of cloth open except at the bottom, where it is stitched together by the edges for a few inches; this is folded round the body, under the arm-pits and over the breast, and tucked in by the hand at the side of the body. In length it reaches the ground, but as this would be inconvenient in walking, it is hitched up about halfway to the knee, and tucked in again at the waist. This piece of cloth, called a ‘fanek’ is only wide enough to go one and a half times round the body; this gives enough room, however, for the legs in walking. The fanek is made in cotton and silk, and the only patterns are stripes of various colours and widths running across the material, the groundwork being of different colours. The commoner patterns are red with green stripes, green and black, blue with black and white stripes, yellow and brown, dark blue with green and white stripes, etc. At the top and bottom of the garment is a broad margin, on which geometrical figures or patterns of various kinds are sewn by hand with floss silk in various colours. Over the fanek is worn a in-na-phi which is folded in the usual native manner, the face, however, being left uncovered. In the cold season a short jacket with long sleeves is worn; this reaches below the bust over the fanek, and is worn tight-fitting. The material is usually velvet or satin, black, blue, or green being the favourite colours. The great drawback to this dress in a European’s eyes is its tendency to spoil the figure: the whole weight of the fanek resting on the bust soon ruins the shape. Female children, until puberty, or near it, wear the fanek round the waist, the upper part of the body being bare.”
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