Good stuff Ron. Will be ordering the equipment so I can start my operation on the homefront. I have mostly St. Augustine here in the Memphis area. Glad I came across your channel. God Speed
Now that I have excisting weeds and fall is around the corner. Can I apply a pre and post herbicide to cover what is already out and to prevent further weeds from appearing? I would also do the same in the spring.
@@RonHenry I live in St. Louis mo. today temperature high /low 70 °F/45 °F but i have a lot of grass weed already come up . can i still use prodiamine ? thank you
Great video, When you have chemicals left in the bottom of your backpack sprayer does that make a difference when you add more chemicals to finish off the rest of your property or with that small amount wouldn't matter Just say if you had maybe six to 10 oz left of chemical in your backpack sprayer? Thanks
Ron! It's early May, and I just started studying your videos and website. Hopefully, by next year, I'll be better at your schedule thats on your site. I have tall fescue and live in south western KY. I dethatched, aerated, overseeded, and and top dressed last week. 7 days after a monsoon came and washed my yard out🤦🏻♂️. I'll not be discouraged and stick to schedule and look forward to overseeding in September. That just means I can focus on everything else you've said to do. My question is this. What can I do for weed Control since I'm not attacking them in March like I should have but I didn't know anything until I found your videos in mid-April. Thank you for your time, and I'm sorry for the long post. I just wanted to give you as much data as possible so you can hit me with your best advice.
Hi Ted. Depends on the weeds you’re targeting. Tenacity and Sedgehammer take care of most weeds in cool season lawns. You might be able to get by with Triad but be careful of temps when you spray it. Cool Season Kit: golfcourselawn.store/products/tenacity-and-sedgehammer-herbicide-kit-with-surfactant-and-dye-cool-season-grass?ToPasteboard Triad: golfcourselawn.store/products/broadleaf-weed-control-triad-select-3-way-herbicide?ToPasteboard
@@RonHenry that’s ok bro. I’m try to purchase the smaller container of prodiamine but I’m not seeing it in your link. I’m in hall county just north of Gwinnett county. Do you think I’m too late to apply preemergent I’m already seeing weeds in my lawn.
@@obrianthinline8514 You can get it here: golfcourselawn.store/collections/frontpage/products/prodiamine-65-wdg-pre-emergent-herbicide It's not too late but you definitely want to get it done ASAP. If you order it today, you'll likely have it before the weekend in which case you can get it applied and take advantage of all the free rain coming our way. Let me know if can help with anything else.
I am putting down Prodiamine at the ending of Cotober depending on the weather. I did some reseeding in late August/ early Sept which means i have to wait. I am determined not to allow crab grass to take over my lawn like it did this season. I was away out of the country this early spring and by the time I came back it was too late to add Preemergent.
@@RonHenry but Ron I just did some seeding at the ending of August to early September. I read elswhere not to use any premergent for tat least 6 weeks. I added some mesotrione after about a week. The r emaining crassgrass is truning white but the seeds were not affected though. I dont want to do anything now to affect my ew seeds
Ron, discovered your channel looking for the best yard sprayer and came across your video on $15 nozzle replacement, which lead me to the "Don't buy this..." weed killer and so on, until I've seen about 5 in a row, many repeated. Wow! Question: I've got holes in my yard 2 fingers wide, by lizards, which I know I have but don't see in the yard or something else. Your advice on getting rid of them please!
Hi service2him. Are you sure they’re lizards and not moles? Either way, I’d take a multi-step approach to it. Eliminate their food source and apply something to repel them. To get rid of their food source and lawn damaging insects (grubs, and turf caterpillars), use Acelepryn G: golfcourselawn.store/products/acelepryn-g-insecticide-grub-and-armyworm-control To repel the lizards, try this product: ron-henry.com/lizardrepellant Hope this helps. Appreciate you watching the content. Thanks for the support. 🙏😎
Hey Ron, after watching this video, am I wasting money and product by applying Prodiamine at the same time as Celcius/Certainty? I've clearly missed my window for pre-emergent, but feel this should prevent any further seeds from germinating while the other products kill any already growing, correct? Or would I be better off just using post emergent until this fall? Thanks again.
Hi Sarath. Nope it's not too late. I would get it down right away though. You may not get as full benefit but it will be better than if you don't apply anything. Thanks so much for subscribing. I really appreciate the support.
Thanks Michael. Yeah I figured you guys didn't want to just watch me spray the product so I figured, I'd share a few tips while I was at it. Thanks for watching. I appreciate the support. 👍😎
i live in the midwest and it's almost the end of March and soil temp. is 41F. It's been raining a lot and not sure if i can spray or will it wash off because the soil is very moist. Thanks
Hi Hai D. I would apply your pre-emergent when soil temps are averaging in the high 40s. You want it in the soil prior to mid 50 soil temps. A bit early is better than late. It will not wash out from rainfall.
Depends on the weeds you're targeting Ariel but Celsius is my goto for warm season grass. It's safe for use on St. Augustine. If you want the best result, combine it with Certainty for excellent sedge control too. Can get both here: golfcourselawn.store/collections/weed-killer There's a video in the description showing how I use it.
It's pretty awesome man. I have a link in the description for it if you decide to pull the trigger. It's a major time saver with how quickly you can apply products.
Glad you found it useful Uber WebD. Let me me know if you have any questions or if I can help with anything else. Also feel free to share the video with anyone you think would benefit. Thanks for watching. I appreciate the support.
It's going to be epic in a few months. Confidence is high. Confidence is very high. I know the guy that mows it. To say he's committed is an understatement. 😎
Great video Ron. The only suggestion that I have is that I measure the amount of prodiamine in a still space like a garage. I put the product in a zip lock bag, as I need 3 doses of the product. Nothing worse than having the product blow all over the patio.
That’s a great suggestion John. It wasn’t a windy day today but I totally see what you’re getting at. Makes a lot of sense to prevent the product from ending up all over the place. Great tip. Thanks for watching man. 👍😎
You can James but it's not ideal. Really you should apply Tenacity separately from your pre-emergent to get the best result. It really needs MSO or another surfactant to really work well.
Hi Angelo. You can apply prodiamine. It comes in both liquid and granular form with granular being easier for most people. Granular: golfcourselawn.store/products/yard-mastery-0-0-7-prodiamine-38-45lb Liquid: golfcourselawn.store/products/prodiamine-65-wdg-pre-emergent-herbicide Hope this helps.
Hey Ron.... Prodiamine does not protect against Poa Annua. Best Pre-emergent during Fall and Winter is Dithiopyr 40 WSB. Prodiamine is good to use during Spring and Summer.
Hi gnamakoudji. If applied in the fall it should provide protection against poa annua germination. I agree that dithiopyr or Specticle Flo are great options for the fall. That's why in the video, I stated that in the fall dithiopyr or something else is what we'd be using. I fixed the link for the sprayer in the description btw. amzn.to/39sUrVE Thanks for watching the content and chiming in. Appreciate the support.
This was a great video, Ron. Most people prolly won't appreciate how much prep work happened before you even began filming. You had to memorize application rates, times and methods, etc. Plus, you managed to convey all of that information to us viewers... unscripted and on camera. Oh, did I mention that you did all of that while spraying pre-emergent while walking at a quick pace. All in a single take! I don't know how you manage to walk and chew gum at the same time...but wow, impressive. A++👍
Really appreciate it LG. I had it all scripted and then reviewed a bunch of times before filming. Still it’s not easy to do when there are all kinds of application rates and other numbers to keep track of. I’m glad that it came out ok. Appreciate you watching and the support man. 👍😎
So Ron , just did prodiamine today down in south of Houston. Might b a little early but a local dude on radio said he said go for it so I did. So does 2.7 pound per 1000 really gonna do the job. Sure seem like not to much. My yard looks horrible with brown patch and hibernation I wonder if I should hit milo now too?
I think you're fine James. Depending on which product you applied, 2.7 lbs per 1000 square feet is on the lower end, but should still work. For example this product: golfcourselawn.store/products/yard-mastery-0-0-7-prodiamine-38-45lb has a minimum app rate of 2lbs per 1000 square feet. I wouldn't apply milo for brown patch. The product I'd use for brown patch and other lawn fungus is Headway G. It's not cheap, but it's an excellent fungicide. ron-henry.com/headwayg I'd wait until next month to apply Milo.
Ron, I have a very small lawn 2000sq ft. If I used .40oz of Prodiamine to do a split application for the spring/fall. Would I measure out .80oz in 2 gallons of water? Also, since it is my first time ever applying pre-emergent can I dilute .80oz in 3 gallons of water just to make sure I applied it evenly?
Hi Jordan. Yep. That's correct. If you're doing a split app, you can go half rate now and the other half in April. .40 per gallon of water for warm season grass. You can definitely do .80 in 3 gallons of water but then you need to be applying 1.5 gallons per 1000 square feet. That should work out just fine. The extra water isn't going to hurt anything.
@@JordanRN77 as long as it's not too windy you can apply it Jordan. Just make sure there's no slipping hazard if you're out working on a wet lawn. Wear your PPE. :-)
Great video! If the schedule to follow was once in spring and once in fall we would use .4 ounce per 1000 sq.ft rule correct? Assume applying in March, that would get me to September?
Hi Never Stop Cruising. You'd only apply .40 in the fall if you applied .40 this spring. Your total allotment is .83 per 1000 square feet for the year. This is assuming you're dealing with warm season grass. If you apply in March that should take care of the spring into early summer. Pre-emergent is going to substantially reduce the number of weeds you'll have to deal with. Let me know if I can help with anything else.
Hi Ron, I’ve always used granules, but am trying to go less. I am very impressed by all the products that you have introduced! I’ve put forward my plan to you for this season but really am interested in going liquid form. I’m in cool season grass and am wondering if you’d have a liquid base plan for my grass? It’s Jonathan green ultra mixed in with their blue panther Kentucky, this is my first season as I just planted it last fall. Thanks much
I sure do Lucas. It’s detailed in my Golf Course Lawn Academy course. I’ll give you the highlights though. I spray a liquid fertilizer TurfPlex twice per month at a low rate. I use Humic Max as my granular fertilizer. You can get both at: golfcourselawn.store
Great job Ron! Wish you had spiked some image, monument or negate in with that Prodiamine. Alex has a poa infestation by the patio thats gonna look really unsightly come March/April. Also an alternative strategy that will yield better results is to do 2 or 3 split apps between the fall and spring say 0.3Oz/1000 in October and another 0.3Oz/1000 in Mid Feb and March.
Oh don’t you worry. That poa is about to be dealt with. I just didn’t want to make things too complicated for someone wanting to spray pre M for the first time. A lot of people are intimidated by mixing products so tried to keep it as simple as possible. Will probably hit the poa with image later this week. 👍😎 Thanks for watching man. I’m ready for spring to get here.
Hey Mr Ron, John Gotch again! If I continue continue cutting my lawn at 3 ( rotary mower), will my Bermuda green up and get thick like when I was cutting at 5 ( rotary mower)? Thanks again sir! Keep your videos coming, I watch all your videos as much as I listen to Dave Ramsey on podcast! Thanks again sir
Hi John. How tall is your grass when you set your mower to height 3? Bermuda thrives at 1.5" and lower. If you're using a rotary mower, I would aim for a height of cut between 2" - 1.5" to prevent issues with scalping. Keep in mind that the lower you go, the more often you'll have to mow. Let me know if I can help with anything else.
Yeah man. You need to be ready to move if you're running the Flowzone at the 115psi rate. It's a great bit of kit. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it. 👍😎
Ron has anyone asked or noticed the Poa next to the concrete patio if that’s what it is. Have Alex get on that ASAP or his yard will be all green like mine was last year. I don’t wish that on anyone. It hard and expensive to get rid of and prodiamine didn’t help.
I am from Toronto Canada and hv KBG. I cut at maximum height. Is it necessary to cut the cool season grass shorter for the pre-emergent to be effective?
Awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Great presentation and content. One quick question -- what do you use if you're early in the season and you see some weeds coming up. I am planning on using a tenacity/surfactant/lazer mixture to knock out what is already up, but I don't know how to stage the timing with using a pre-emergent. For reference, I am around the mason dixon line, and I have 100% Kentucky bluegrass.
Hi Patrick. Tenacity is a good choice for KBG. If you haven't applied your pre-emergent as yet, I'd do that. It's important for keeping spring and summer weeds away. The timing with pre-emergent doesn't really matter. Pre-emergent is really for future weed control while tenacity is for targeting current weeds. You could apply both on the same day if you wanted. Different goals.. 😎
Mr. Ron, I scalped my lawn yesterday with a rotary mower an I collected at least 2 full bags of dead grass. Although I don’t own a reel mower yet, I love the height of the Bermuda and I have a little life of it coming out of dormancy! My question is, will my lawn green up at this height if I continue to cut it this low? During the spring I usually have my mower height at 5 ( rotary mower), cause it is so green and thick! Your advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again sir
Hi John. Once temps get consistently higher, the Bermuda will come out of dormancy and green up. While scalping isn't strictly necessary you tend to get green up 2 - 3 weeks sooner than if you had not scalped. If the lawn is getting nice and green with the mower height set to 5 I'd leave it there if you're happy with how it looks. Let me know if I can help with anything else.
Great Information.... Short, Detail and Precise.... Thank you!!! I have a cool season grass and since an year got into maintaining grass myself and got good results last year. This year wanted to start off with preemergent when soil temps are about 50F, quick question, I wanted to detach and aerate would this disrupt the pre-emergent barrier, if so would you please provide tips how to accomplish?
Hi Aswartha. aerating and dethatching will disturb the barrier which will reduce the effectiveness of the pre-emergent. It's still very much worth doing though you'll likely see a few weeds here and there. What I'd recommend is going ahead with your pre-emergent and do a good job watering it in after application. Ideally at least .5" of water. Worst case you can always follow up with a post-emergent if you start getting too much weed pressure. Let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks for watching. Appreciate the support. 👍😎
Not too late at all Tara. You might not get 100% effectiveness but it will DEFINITELY be better than had you not applied anything. If you're looking to go liquid then this video is a great guide. An easier method is to put down granular pre-emergent. Since you already have a spreader, this is what I would go with. golfcourselawn.store/products/yard-mastery-0-0-7-prodiamine-38-45lb Here's a video of how to apply it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W5eWT26mLN4.html Thanks so much for watching the content. Let me know if I can help with anything else.
So good! Love to continue to watch your videos and impressed by the growth of knowledge you provide. Thanks for putting your heart into it and I am looking forward to this season!
Hi Ron, Just found your channel and like the content. I’m in upstate NY. Last spring I had a pretty bad crabgrass issue on one side of my yard. I have liquid Prodiamine 65WG and granular Anderson Barricade. I plan on doing a split application once our soil temps hit 50-55. I’ve never used a liquid PE and not that comfortable applying it but want to give it a shot. Your content is very helpful- thank you! Do you suggest the first application to be liquid or granular? I do have irrigation so can water in. And, if I decide not to do the liquid app, would I still get the same results with two applications of the granular Barricade?
Hi VR. You can get great results with granular and liquid. If applied properly, liquid likely has more even coverage than granular. It's tough to beat the ease of application that comes with a granular though. :-) I'm glad the video is helpful with you applying liquid prodiamine. It's really not that difficult if you measure accurately and ensure you're applying the product at a rate of 1 gallon per 1000 square feet. Thanks for watching. Let me know if I can help with anything else.
Mmm. In that case, let's wait till the fall Chimeng. If the plan is to top dress the lawn this summer, we'd want the root system to be strong. You'll have to deal with a few more weeds, but we can always spray a post-emergent herbicide if they start getting out of hand.
Hey Ron, if you're only overseeding thin areas of the lawn would you advise putting down Pre-Emergent in the other areas...Basically overseeding side yard is it ok to pre-emergent the front?
Hi rvnot1one1. You can see the current price here: amzn.to/31eSw2x The price varies but usually around $305 shipped. Let me know if I can help with anything else. 😎👍
You usually can. Would have to do a jar test to be 100% certain. You definitely don’t want to mix an entire tank of the blend only to find out it clogs up the sprayer. I’ve not mixed CarbonPro with pre-emergent. I know it plays nice with fertilizer and PGR.
Excess Prodiamine will stunt root growth. Bermuda is pretty hardy so it’ll likely be fine. I wouldn’t overapply though. There are regulations on how much can be applied bee year. Just switch to dythiopyr in the fall is what I’d recommend.
@@blackhornet25 This is a good option in a granular. Normally it's more pricey than this. The nice thing about dithiopyr is you get both a pre and post emergent in one product. You pay for it though: amzn.to/3oirpMO Let me know if I can help with anything else.
It's pretty awesome. The Chapin is still my baby but it's hard to argue with the flow rate and build of the Flowzone. It's built like a tank. I on'y really like the Typhoon 2 though. The Cyclone was worse than my Chapin imo. It needs a stronger pump.
Hey Ron, i have 2 spots at my backyard, that doesn’t have much sunlight during the day, my house shade. I dont have trees around but those areas its always high moisture. And im having moss issues that lime its not solving, any advices?
Hi Eudes. Hmmm.. With the area not getting a lot of sunlight and retaining moisture, it's going to be tough to keep the moss away. Assuming the soil pH isn't way out of line we can try this product from Scotts: amzn.to/3qPGO8R If you prefer the hose end version, there's this one: amzn.to/3a2eLMN Does it get better once there's more heat in spring and summer months?
@@RonHenry it gets a little better at summer. not moss, but its my “ bare” spots, it doesn’t grow much grass, looks like “ weak” grass 😕. I will try that scoot product. Thank you 😁
@@RonHenry i did receive my soil test package already, but i was waiting until early spring to do it. 😅 but i did put lime on it, heavy. It control some, but they insist in coming back
🌞Great video! Can't believe we hit 70 today already in January. Does your FlowZone come with a droplet style tip? In the past, I've always liked the fan style Teejet to get a fuller coverage since it gets watered in anyway. That 25 degree tip you were using looked like it gave good coverage.
Heya Sunny. Hopefully the 70 degree weather is a sign of things to come! 😎Nope. No droplet style tip. You can certain get one but it's not included. I think the droplet tip matters more when you're not heavily watering in the product. If I showed you a pic of Alex's lawn now, you'd have a hard time knowing that anything was applied to it. The product has been washed down. The 25 degree tip did a good job. It's a good balance in my opinion. Thanks for watching man.
I subscribe to fall and spring pre-emergent apps. Had no crab grass! Good to see the Flowzone in action, that may be the ticket. I do a split prodiamine app in the spring but may run it as granular and then liquid this year, if I have the sprayer. Too early here in NJ still but spring is coming. I’m jonesing to start my spring videos!
Very cool Lawn Journeys. I'll likely go with Dimension on Alex and my lawn this fall. I was really on the fence with showing how to to split applications but didn't want to make the video too long or complicated for beginners. It's hard enough getting your typical homeowner to mix products as it is. :-) Maybe a split application video on Tony's lawn. 😎👍
You're right Lawn 2 Learn. I get hateful comments when I do that. Plus not everyone can pick up and easily shake a backpack sprayer, That's why the drill came out today. :-) Thanks for watching!
@@joshhabeeb6926 yep! Just a paint and mortar drill attachment. I can add a link to the description but I figured that most people probably already have one.
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