For the people that already have the original - there is a stabilization block that you can get for about $10 and it goes under the blade clamp to prevent it from flexing while sharpening - which makes a huge difference because it drastically increases the precision. You can also get a larger sharpening block for around $10 that will allow you to clamp in a larger stone and sharpen faster. The pro will still be much better for sharpening larger blades because of the design.
Then why is it still called Precision Adjust? This means that it is only Adjust, NOT Precision Adjust, since the precision must be ensured by ourselves, with other components from other sources. If their system is as good as it is believed and as they present it, then Precision should be Precision, and this characteristic should be offered of them, NOT from us to improvise with all kinds of other components to obtain a precision. I've seen a lot of people doing all sorts of upgrades with all sorts of different adapters and clamps, because the default ones are horrible and flexing up all over the place. In this case, you better add that money to the price of this system and buy a TSprof or Hapstone, which are clearly superior to these messes
After giving it a lot of thought and pricing out the cost of the original with the upgrades I’d want, like the magnet block to sharpen my Swiss Army knives, I think I’m going to wait and save a bit longer and just get the pro. It’s a lot more money upfront overall I think it makes more sense cost wise
I had the older precision adjust and was happy with it. Larger knives a bit tougher to work with,. Finally got the new Pro or Elite and what a difference! Two things though....like others have said, how about 1200 grit? And, more "important" to me, when will you have a storage case system like the original Pro model? The box is nice, but a storage case would be a lot more useful to me for storage and moving to another location. Good Job!!
Very interesting and informative, thanks guys! I've got the Elite and it's everything I need, but I can see and appreciate what the Pro brings to the table.
@ Worksharp: I have three main knives to keep sharp: my EDC Buck 110, a Gerber Mk II, and a Puma White Hunter. The 110 is pretty straightforward, but the Gerber is a double edged 6.6-inch blade, and the Puma has a 6.1-inch blade with a pronounced curve at the belly and small serrations near the heel of the blade. Do you think that the standard PA can take care of these blades, or should I step up to the Pro PA? UPDATE: Just ordered the Pro PA.
... you're inviting that?! LOLz! They're going to do it anyways... Cool video, thanks guys. I wanted to know what the main differences were between the two. This helped!
Hi i got my worksharp pro couple of days ago and its amazing. I have just one question maybe others feel the same.. inside the knife clamp there is a rubber stopper and I have noticed that the knife only goes in about 5mm and its not rock solid a bit wobbly even after tightening it. is that normal or abnormal.
It is a pain to not be able to insert the knife in more. I know exactly what you’re talking about. They have that horrible clamp that does not take in too much knife. Wish they changed it too. Some knives are not possible to sharpen for this reason.
I've noticed this also with sharpening knives that have a spine under 2mm and weigh over 6 ounces. Basically your everyday kitchen chef knife. There is way too much play/wobbly in the clamp. I figured I wasn't the only one experiencing this problem.
I have also noticed that with the chef’s knives you need to adjust the angle every time you switch sides because of the wobble. The angle meter helps. Nonetheless its still a great sharpener.
I know the original (and elite by the same logic as it is the original with all attachments and a case) can, I recommend watching the procession adjust video for how to do recurve knives
Not surprising results. I wish you would've made the video 5 minutes longer and shown your methods of sharpening, like a minute of demonstrating how you removed material for reprofiling, a minute demonstrating each transition of removing scratches, honing and finishing. This could've been much more informative if you hadn't blasted through the entire process on ultra high speed.
Its not hard to make thin knives or kitchen knives extremely sharp i use f dick steel an its easily thst sharp instead of cutting paper fold zip lock bag or dont fold an if u can slice zip lock plastic or a paper towel then ur sharp u guys should demonstrate sharpening thicker blades any way i know u know your stuff so please dont take it wrong way i feel like blades like the gerber covert auto it kinda a pain or atcleast when i was learning i think its discontinued know but if u could do that style it would be kool thanks bro
Unfortunately for the consumer, Worksharp could release a secondvTri-stone with finishing grits but they will not because tgey want to sell the Elite rather than improve their initial product. To me, that is disappointing from a guy that doesn't make much more than middle class wages!
