You can't charge group 31 batteries through their posts. The power is received and given up only by the base circle around the studs. Charging adapters are mandatory for both charging and load testing. There is nothing wrong with the battery. It's not being charged due to improper installation. Tight contact to the base circles is mandatory.
A silage harvest video would be great! As a kid loved running behind the trucks to unhook the chains in the silo. This would have been in the late 1970's and early 1980's.
Hey Nathan, I had a similar experience on one of our irrigation motors this summer. If you know which wire on the back of the alternator is the excitor wire, you could try jumping a wire from the positive on the battery to that connection and see if it starts charging. Once it is charging you can take the wire off, only takes a second. Thanks for the videos 👍
Thanks for the videos. Is there a separate voltage regulator or is it built into the alternator? If there is a separate regulator then it must be checked too. I know you already know this so is a reminder to always keep a voltmeter on hand and whenever there is an engine cranking issue check dc voltages with engine not running and engine running. With engine not running battery voltage should be around 12.4 vdc at battery + to battery - and 12.4 vdc at alternator output + terminal and 12.4 vdc at starter solenoid + terminal ( referenced to to battery - neg terminal, to alternator case ground and to engine ground). Check all associated positive and negative wire/cables terminals for corrosion and tight terminal connections. Wire/cable terminals may look good from the outside and may actually be corroded at the contact patches when looked at when disconnected. After jump starting an engine check voltages with engine running for 13.6 vdc (higher at cold temperatures) at alternator output terminal, at battery + terminal, and at starter solenoid + terminal. This will tell you if the alternator is putting out the correct voltage with engine running or if there is a wire/cable issue or an alternator/regulator issue. To repeat always check voltages at the battery and alternator and all associated wire cables ends to determine if the alternator/regulator, battery or wire/cables are causing a no crank or no (proper) charging voltage issue. Even if voltages measure good at all points on a cranking and charging system cables wire/cables must be in good shape to pass the required current needed for cranking and charging. Sorry for the long post. Let me know if you would like additional information and I could send you some published material. Measuring system voltages can save money in unnecessary alternator or battery purchases. And as a side note there are inexpensive battery condition meters on the market now that you can purchase and use to check the cold cranking performance of all suspect bad batteries.
Need to get a volt meter on there see if gauge is right. Then test off alternator. Could be a voltage regulator somewhere that's bad. Usually on the alternator tho. I've had new alternators with bad regulators from parts stores
You had over 13 volts in the battery without engine running that gage probably not working, try checking with volt meter you checked it with at shop. Is that the generator that had mice in it they could have chewed a wire!
Do you people ever run out of money. You sure spend alot of money trying to make things perfect looking. Esthetically pleasing for everybody. Everything that you have bought the last 5 years and having three kids to support. You people have got to be in debt up to your eyeballs.
