Good video and advice apart from one thing. With grease, the more the merrier is incorrect. I was informed years ago by a bearing manufacturer that over greasing was the most common reason for premature failure as it can lead to localised overheating. Other than that, good, to the point video.
@@idonotwantahandle2 I've also heard this from professional mechanics. The extra grease has nowhere to go and thus create unnecessary pressure and churning which could damage the seals. At some point the grease could prevent smooth rolling. I could not believe it at first but I checked out some old bearings and yes some of them are full of grease but the bearing is stuck or hardly rolls.
Thought it may be worth noting that my 30 year old DD still has all its original wheel bearings. 250k on original bearings suggests I am not doing something wrong.
Just finished a similar job on my Forester - I used the press kit you have & with the right size disc found it very good at pulling the seals into place without needing to hammer them home.
The details makes the difference between total failure or total success Thank you so very much for doing and going the extra mile instead half as like 95% of youtubers these days
I’m only halfway through this video and my mind is already made up. It’s absolutely Great. Your explanations and the filming are just brilliant. You explain the pros and cons. Just Amazing. You’ve got my subscription. Thank you for posting. Regards, Joe.
Nice, detailed video. I have done them on the vehicle and off... Personally, even if I need to get an alignment, I find it wayyyyy easier to do it off of the vehicle. Also, it's great that you show the different ways to remove the inner race from the hub, because sometimes there is no lip on the race to use the puller.
I liked the video. I just installed rear wheel bearings on my 84 Porsche, and When I checked the play I was horrified. I almost took them off thinking i damaged them installing them. THEN I remembered the hub nut gets tightened to 300 NM and after that it was rock solid no play!
Holy moly! You have made a difficult-looking task look MUCH easier to perform. The fact you convinced me to get the proper tools for the future, made me a subscriber! Thank you so much!
By far the most comprehensive and detailed instructions on RU-vid on installing this type of bearing. This is my reference go to video. I learnt heaps, thank you for doing this.
Thank you for this video I used it to learn how to use these tools and save me over 600 dollars on one job! The work was brutal but everything turned out so ty ty ty good sir!
This is how a video should be done, great work! Ive never done this before but now I have confidence to do it by watching your video. You were very thorough in your explanation, thanks.
1998 ford ka. my wheel almost fell off. lol... was after i did some work with replacing the springs and brake wires. you know.. this thing with working on old rust corpses. one project leads to 2 more - endless loop and really appreciate this vid showing the stuff i needed to know about wheel bearings
Really well done, I paused and replayed this one a few times. We don't see this kind of detail with sealed bearings, it was eye opening to see how these old style open bearings come apart. Good point about no grease on the outside of the races during installation. Although it might be tempting to use antiseize, you don't want that getting into the bearing surfaces. I understand your point, they are better left dry, they are supposed to seize a little on each side. I've heard remarks about taking care around speed sensors, when would you try to take the sensor out before doing the bearing?
Thanks! I really appreciate that. The speed sensor should always be removed before repair. The particular Subaru I was working on had a very short sensor that didn’t protrude enough to need removal. But if the sensor is there it’s always best to remove if you can to avoid damage while working in and around that hub area. I’m glad you like the detail of the video! A lot of effort went into making that video. It’s a hard video to capture and also a difficult job compared to a bolt in bearing. Totally doable. But with both videoing and working it was a lot or organization. Thanks for checking that one out! 😀
Thank you so much for this video! I just did this on both sides of my 2003 WRX and saw this was also a bugeye. Thankfully, this was how I did it (it was my first time pressing an unsealed bearing and I was nervous I should not have pressed on the inner bearing to install the hub but I didn't see any other way). All seems well and time will tell... 😂
I have a 30 gallon compressor which can put out only 12 CFM. I have Aircat guns mini a regular size. They will remove any fastener quickly, but my compressor can't supply enough sustained air. You need a compressor that puts out 25CFM inorder to do any sustained output.
This video came up automatically... I've done this several times, so I watched to see how you liked the tool. I like mine a lot as well. I have noticed that mine is a lot happier when I put a little wheel bearing grease on the threads of the tool. Great video!
Right on. I do that too from time to time. I should do it each time just to make everything nice and easy. I am glad you like your tool also. Its been a life saver for me 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun All four are press in 😒I own two Escapes, my Parents own two, and my Brother had one for a while. I've done seven or eight on Escapes now, and only one was not the front drivers side. That CV axle is on more of an extreme angle on that side, and I assume that's why it's more prone to going bad.
I have seen many RU-vid videos on front wheel bearing replacement and yours is the best so far as it covers the finer details to avoid a bad installation.
Done bearing changes on last 2 vehicles this way, nice to avoid bench fee and delay waiting for a shop to use their press. I just factor new hub insert into my cost to avoid issue with removing outer race.
Thank you for this video. Have to do my front and rear soon. Was going to just buy a whole hub bearing kit, but this will be much more cost effective in the long run. Mk4 VW Golf.
No problem!! The concepts will work great on front and rear on your VW. The front especially. The rear bearing might be easier to buy the hub kit for you (and me). It's a unique design compared to anything else out there. I would also recommend buying the best bearings available so you don't have to do it twice. Let me know how your project goes! 😃🔧🔧
Awesome video. Very thorough and to the point. Others should take notes on how you stepped through the whole video and put confidence in others to follow your steps and attain success. A1 100% Absolutely well done through and through!
thank you very much. i was looking for a video for my 03 forester. i just clicked on the first video that i searched under “ wheel bearing press “ and i was soo happy i clicked on this video even more happy that it was another subaru car . so it was the exact same steps !!
SOLID! I’m doing a rear wheel bearing on an ls400 and there’s no videos on it however this press in style is the same so thank you for the informative tutorial! I appreciate this a million 😎🤙
@@EasyFixShaun it’s been a hassle, but mainly because I don’t have the inner & outer seal and I need to also order the deflector on the inside I destroyed mine, in the process of removing the old bearing casing
@@stairwaytotevin Sorry your project isn't going great. The sealed bearing styles are much easier generally. I like those better. The extra seal steps mess me up all the time too. I forget them and have to disassemble again to get them installed. Been there for sure! Stick with it. Hang in there. Think your way through and be as patient as you can be. "it's just nuts and bolts". 😃
I was here notating the Amazon tools then saw that you have the links, amazing! First time I heard crevice pronounced differently, lol, love it. Not steal the tools but borrow them, lol, such a polite threat.
Overall yeah, but that pneumatic wrench is overkill. In the end You'll se bearing rotates too hard... If You'll crack few last times by hand shall be flawless...
Everything in the video can be done by hand. Power tools make some processes easier and faster. By hand is always the best. One can get a better "feel" for the repair 😀🔧
I've got an old car (01 focus se) with the rear wheel bearing pressed into the brake drum (surprised me too) so in the past I've had to replace the whole drum with plenty of brake like in it because of the bearing. I'm fairly certain this video still applies, and so, my future wheel bearing job thanks you for possibly saving a set of brake drums (particularly cause replacing the drum means I have to do both sides, even if the other side is 'good'.
Very well presented and some top quality tips! I'm a novice mechanic and seeing someone do it differently is always good for opening the mind of other ways to do things. With these Subaru bearings I usually just pull the whole hub and slap it in the press, I can do both sides in 2hrs quite comfortably without rushing, I wonder how fast you smash it out this way? I feel like the press method is much simpler/easier assuming you have the tools on hand. We don't have to worry about rust where I live so that probably makes things much easier if you wanna remove multiple arms etc.
The tool works really fast for me. With no rust I could beat a traditional press time easily. Plus if the the cv axle can be removed with out removing any steering or suspension adjustment bolts, an alignment may not be needed. If the knuckle is removed an alignment is needed afterwards. I prefer the on car tool. I don't think I have used a traditional press for a wheel bearing replacement in at least a decade. The only exception that comes to mind would be like a Toyota Tundra front or rear wheel bearing at times. Especially the rear. There are always exceptions to the rule. I would say the on car press does 99% of press in bearings out there though. Super valuable tool to have and try. Make sure you get a kit with a fine thread bolt if you are going to use it a lot. Those last a decade or so vs corse thread 😃🔧
Great video. Thanks . Also I've had 2 inch wheel spacers on my F150 for 7 years without issue. Never cheap out when buying them and check the torque on them every time you have the wheel off. That's all.
Good tip! The car i fixed in the video is doing great with no issues on the bearing or spacers. So maybe I'm wrong here. I always default to "spacers are bad" from previous experiences. They do make the stance nice looking for sure 😀
@EasyFix. absolutely agree. They aren't ideal but I think if you buy good quality and pay attention by inspecting them on a regular basis and checking their torque you'll be okay. Loved your video tho. I replace my wheelbaring on my 2006 pontiac vibe using the guidance in your vid.. thanks again
Glad it helped you! The concepts are somewhat easy to understand after it is demonstrated a few times. It was extremely difficult to show on camera in tight spaces😃🔧
I didn't see you do it but it's a good idea to clean the wheel studs before reinstalling the wheel spacers AND also apply red lock tite to the wheel studs so when you torque down tje wheel spacers you have more.confidence that they won't back off. Then install.your wheel as you would. I like a dab of anti sieze on the spacer studs to make removal easier. Great video by the way.
@@EasyFixShaun I personally think they went out of the way to make things harder for the average mechanic to get things done , they need to go back to the original wheel bearings from the 60s and 70s ! Great video of doing this job !
this "way of doing it" works most of the time and is great for "driveway mechanics". Been a tech four decades, for the past three and half decades I have ALWAYS used a press (as an apprentice the shop I worked in had a setup similar to this tool). I have repaired SOOO many bearings that were just done using this tool, all because the bearing was NOT seated 100%. Then there is the stubborn wheel bearings. I have a 40 ton press and have seen some wheel bearings take all 40 tons to unseat... and yes it makes one hell of a BANG when they let go. This is not a criticism, just an FYI moment. Great job on the vid
Thanks for the tip! I have had no seating issues so far on all vehicle bearings with the tool including larger bearings like Toyota trucks. The clamping pressure of the tool is significant. The 3/4" bolt and torque of the fastener could be calculated, it would be pretty high. The feel of the bolt pressing in the bearing is very similar to a press. When the bearing stops- IT STOPS. Generally speaking interference parts like wheel bearings can be handled with a tool like this no problem. I was skeptical at first also. The press and this tool both press bearings together and are both useful. It is user preference. As far as bearings coming back for another repair, I only see that with mid grade and cheap bearings. High quality bearings have never been an issue for me 😃🔧
I've had a couple vehicles where bolts were seized into sleeves and removing the knuckle from the vehicle would incur extra expense that the customer wasn't ready for i.e. rear knuckle of an '08 Escape comes to mind. Several linkages that meant torch time and melting bushings. This type of on-vehicle press makes my life easier and saves the customer money. Agreed that there are some that require full shop press force and there's no avoiding the expense that's coming.
@@mikemonaco3547 Yup all of the tools and concepts apply to your vehicle. Your front bearings are press in sealed press in style. The rear bearing is a sealed style hybrid bearing. The rear bearing portion bolts in. The rear hub though, will need to be unpressed to save it, and pressed back into the new bearing. 😃🔧
Ah, the old bugeye captured wheel bearings. I remember doing these many years ago. I ended up taking the spindle off and pressing the hub out with a socket, as I did not have a hub puller. Luckily I had access to a press. You should consider including the name of the car in the title so more people can find this great helpful video.
Awesome video i really wish i could use this style press where i live, im from Atlantic Canada where everything is extremely seized you have to use a oxy acy torch on everything before it will budge. I have one of these presses it does work on the atv's around here because they see way less road salt. But my 20 ton press even struggles sometimes to break free bearings here even after heating the bearing/race red hot. Pressing in is easy but coming out its always a big bang with 20tons behind it lol.
I did inspect it. I live in the rust belt so we are used to everything being rusted. It's solid cast still and pretty strong. Superficial rust thankfully 😃
Great Question. If you are comfortable with repairs it is very doable. I haven't used this on car press in 10+ years except for some specialized rear Toyota truck bearings. Even those can be done without a press using some creativity. I love the on car press tool. If you can get the cv axle out, the tool will work. And if you can remove the axle with touching any alignment changing fasteners, no alignment changes will happen from getting the shaft out or back in 😃
@@EasyFixShaun I am comfortable with doing repairs, I have never done a press in bearing before. I am used to doing the bearing hub assembly which makes it a much easier process. I am certain I could get the cv axle out without messing with the alignment. I would be doing it on a 2004 Toyota Avalon on the passenger front.
I would have cleaned the surrounding area (knuckle, etc) before pressing in these open type bearings. Some rust or sand is bound to end up in that bearing upon installation. Otherwise great video!
Thanks for the tips! If that were to happen you would notice that the bearing didn't seat all the way and the retaining clip would not fit in its groove 😃🔧🔧
@@aliciaalbright8365 Looks like you have hub bearings and don't have press in bearings. The Hub Shocker might be useful to you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eKqYtMdlPYo.html
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for the response. The other versions have those bearings but the turbo has the oress bearings in the front. I thought the same at first until i looked unto it more
Thanks for the video. I liked your idea about keeping the strut bolts intact so we don’t need an alignment. Just finished a 2012 CRV front bearing by removing the 3 bolts holding the ball joint and was able to pop the drive axle out. Thanks!
I own an Australian early 06 model Impreza 2.0L R manual Non turbo has 4 wheel disc brakes and it's so bloody confusing when it comes to researching repairs on these, as there's a few variations on models even in the same year. Mine has the same one piece hub like here and others have a removable bearing assembly. This TUT has been *easy* enough to follow fortunately. I find myself watching over and over tho just to be clear :)
There was a lot of change over around the 03-06 model years on brake and bearing parts. I have been burned on parts like you also. Happens sometimes in the parts catalogs and it sucks. If you have the press in bearings this should be the video you need. Its a weird concept, once you do them a few times it is easy to understand. That is why there are not a lot of great videos on it. I tried hard to include as much information as I could so you could grasp concepts in the video. I also tried to give optional ideas of how some of the process could be done so that you could get a better idea. It may have made the video to complex. But, I wanted to show concepts of how press in bearings work and there is no absolute way to do them so that you can work through whatever small design differences you may have on your particular make year and model. Press in bearings are all basically the same. 😃🔧🔧 I have a second video on press in bearings (press in 1.0) also that could be helpful.
instead of mashing the brand new seal from the inside, why not use a adapter the fits the outside of the seal and install. Alot easier and you are not going to mash the seal mating surface
Great explainer video with a couple of concerns. 1: Hammering that inner lip style seal in will damage it and/or reduce lifespan at very least so find a suitable seal driver instead. That's best practice for the outer as well although that style is more forgiving. 2: Reusing that bearing after it hit the ground is not okay as the cage is guaranteed bent and likely roller damage. With 10's of thousands of hours in the trade I've dropped a couple of bearings before and I now handle them in a way that ensures they never fall.
Thanks for the tips! The seal and bearing are still good. The seal wasn't installed perfectly but is sealing perfectly. I did inspect the seal and it is still good years later with no leak signs so far.. The bearing is still good but can not be inspected. I did inspect and clean it and grease it again before install. I have complete confidence it was good. If either item was questionable I would have replaced them with new again on the spot. The seal was not the best install and a spacer is always best here. You are correct. There are other ways to install though and that's what I went with. Not ideal. But still good 😃😃
Excellent! Buy all the tools, makes life easy. Especially the 12lb slide hammer and kit to go with it. If you have a stubborn hub to depress it saves your elbow and makes short work of it. I don't even use attempt my 5lb in the kit anymore 😃🔧
I love mine also. Easier than a traditional press. Plus if the alignment was good before if will be good after, as long as the cv-axle can be removed without disturbing any adjustable bolts used for alignment 😃🔧
I've done similar work on my cars before. I can definitely appreciate the presentation , details and tips shared on here. Good camera work too. Subbed.
I remember doing wheel bearings on a friends Datsun around 1980. He told me he had tools, he didn't. I had my own tools for majority of work (I was motorcycle mechanic working at Suzuki dealers) but used a small hatchet instead of hammernand chisel as I was doing the work at his home (local trailer park) It looked really brutal but actually worked OK removing inner race and I managed not to damage anything. It's the first and last set of press in bearings I ever did A proper bearing tool would have made life so much easier
Wow thats a great story! 😀😂. Don't you wish you had invented this tool at the time. i feel that way sometimes. I don't know who did invent this simple tool but i guarantee it was a regular person like us and some corp took all the patent credit 😂😀
Thanks for the video. I do not own a Subaru but I have a 98 ford Contour SVT. It uses the one piece bearing. Sure borrow my tools just make sure you bring them back cleaned. :)
Currently doing the left rear wheel bearing on a 2001 Jaguar XJR. Prior owner (or owner's mechanic) didn't tighten the axle nut anywhere near the requisite torque spec and as a result it's been slowly working its way out as I've been driving it. Hub fought me a bit but it popped out after a bit of pressure from the puller and taps with a hammer on the rim. Bearing basically fell out once the hub was out, only things that are still in there are the inner and outer races. Going to see if the parts store has the bearing kit back in stock yet and hope it has a disc the right size to pull my races out.
Nice Mark! I have had excellent luck with mine also. I haven't pressed a wheel bearing in a decade the traditional way. So much easier. And no alignment needed in most cases. 😃🔧
No problem! You will have minor differences in parts and sizes. Your wheel bearing should be the press in sealed type. All concepts and tools should work great 😀🔧
. Great video very thorough and detailed without a lot of unnecessary information. Going to be replacing the bearing on a 2006 Hyundai Elantra. first time doing it, but after watching your video I'm confident it'll work out okay
Really helpful video, although I already replaced my bearings I always wanted to see how does a Subaru is, and yes it’s different than most FWD car that requires to remove the hub outboard and the bearings inboard. Pretty nice job buddy.
