😮i felt that i was watching a Discovery Channel Documentary😮. I don't even have interest in resin casting but I'm compelled to buy because of this video... Great job😂
Just a thought. You don't necessarily have to pull a full vacuum in order to get good results, thereby reducing the time you have the resin in the vacuum pot quite a bit. Second, once you remove the bubbles and pour, nothing says you cannot put the mold + resin back into the vacuum pot. Yes it would take a bit more time, but it won't foam the second time, while still removing the bubbles from the pour. Third, I say why not go with both--degas the resin in the vacuum pot, pour and throw in the pressure pot!
First - if you don't put full vacuum it will take far longer to get the air out of resin as there is less pressure. Second - it depends on the size and shape of the mold if it will fit in the pot, and the bubbles coming out will not cause any issues ie if you fill to the top it may overspill and give you poor results. Third - doing both is a waste of time and pointless, pressure pot will eliminate the airbubbles entirely. You need to consider curing time of resin as well, usually the resin with long open window will self degas if the right conditions are met. Fast curing resins can only be done in pressure pot as it works instantly.
@@CasualDIY Curing a resin in a vacuum chamber reduces its boiling point, for thin casting it will be alright but for resin above a certain thickness, heat produces in a vacuum chamber cant be transmitted out as there are not much air to move the heat, added with the reduced boiling point, there might be even more bubbles as the resin boils, so pulling full vacuum and cure the resin in it will certainly create bubbles in thicker cast. In short, curing resin in a vacuum will make it heat up to its reduced boiling point faster and stays at that temperature because excess heat becomes bubbles. (so it might be the best to vacuum the resin, and leave it outside so that heat can be transmitted away from the cast) On the other hand, pressure pot increases the boiling point of the resin, hence it will cure to a higher heat without boiling (which creates bubbles) on thicker cast (which can be seen in the video, the cup of the resin in the pressure pot had melted compared to the vacuum one). It creates no extra bubble as it does not boils even at higher heat, however, the downside will be that the lifespan of the silicon mold will greatly be reduced because the heat produced were not removed through boiling. By doing both, its not a waste of time because it appears to slightly increase the strength of the resin because compresses the air in it just creates a super tiny bubble that waits to expand into its original size, which is technically internal pressure point. It can also reduces the curing time on thicker cast (because increased boiling point = higher heat cap in the resin, more heat = faster cure) , but at the cost of the mold's lifespan. I am by no means any good in resins, just take what I said as a pinch of salt. its a really good and educational video by the way, Thank you so much! =D
@@ZiFengLearnstoMake It all depends on the resin you use, poly and epoxy, thin and thick, slow curing and long curing. Depending on what you use it will have it ups and downs. In general I recommend epoxy as its bit easier to work with and the heat seems not to be such an issue in pressure or vacuum pots. I think what you mentioned is more for the poly variants. This topic is vast and there is no one good answer in all cases. However the "DIY" resins usually are easier to work with and work well with pressure pots.
Most if not all my resins i use are fast room temperature cure resins like the polyurethanes i use you only have 3 plus minutes before cream times all up cure in about 6 to ten minutes no time for vacuum lol 😆 the slower resins I use like polyester and epoxy are bit slower like 30min so one has to be smart in the mixing an pure and mould design 😀 has any one every use ridged polyurethane foams hmmm lol you have to work fast using them and big pressure in the moulds i have made dental trays with polyurethane ridged foams in alloy moulds with a heated mould and you have to work fast total set up is like 6 minutes no time for vacuum but in this system we want a foaming resins obviously its a foaming reaction lol ok but the finished product is a hard polyurethane plastic most of my moulding are functional and load bearing but still have to have quality and look good 👍
I cast resin blanks for turning pens, and I use both units for different purposes. I use the pressure pot when I want to stabilize rotten wood. Yes, bubbles will be present, and the vacuum chamber doesn't work too well for stabilizing wood.
Ive been doing mould making for yrs i mosly use polyurethane elastomer and to remove bupples i try not to mix any into my mix an a warm mould can gelp to burst those little surface bubbles on your parts ive been doing composite engineering for many yrs andi only use a vacuum or pressure pot for complexs moulds that have to be perfect same with carbon fibre bagging wet lay ups and forgings . Kind regards Jasmine the JDM girl 👧 from Sydney Australia 🇦🇺
Thank you for this! I've been using a vaccum chamber and always get bubbles when I pour with anything in the mix. Clear is fine but bubbles get stuck on glitter easily. I hope a pressure pot will fix things.
Great explanation and demonstration! I have them both - use the vacuum chamber for silicone and the pressure pot for resin. Can't imagine working without them - how bad the quality would be.
I have seen this video over and over from many different youtubers. I would like to see some experimentation done. You purposely mixed the air into the resin and for obvious resins to show the different between the 2 methods. I would like to see part A and part B vacuumed separately first and then genitally mixed and re vacuumed and see how much bubbles are produced. I suspect the amount of bubbling would be dramatically reduced. Most liquid holds as much air as empty space does, so vacuuming the A & B parts before mixing should extract the dissolved gasses out of the resin before they are mixed. They would not be curing so there would be no time crunch, you could leave the part A & B in there for hours if needed. I dont think there would be any sublimation between the 2 parts but if there was you could do part A and part B separately and then mix them. I was just curious and I hadn't seen anyone try this method before. Might be fun to watch.
Your predictions are most likely correct. It's just not a very time efficient way of doing this. It would take far longer than it needs to for not much improved in the finished product.
I use 48 hour long-pour low viscosity art resin. I mix it, degass it in a semi vacuum, pour it into my mold, put the mold into a semi vacuum. I'm not implying that is the best way. It's clunky and cumbersome, and doesn't work for medium or high viscosity resin. I'm making a pressure pot next month to use with thicker resin and faster curing resins.
What about degassing the resin inside the vacuum chamber then pouring this degassed resin inside a mould and degas it again slowly? Will this work or will it overflow as severe?
Wish I'd seen this 24 hours ago. Watching how to videos in reactive sense instead of proactive one never the best method. Nonetheless, your vid has answered my question as to the mess inside my diy vacuum chamber. Thanks, now I know.
The whole purpose of this video is to provide as much detail and information as possible. Unfortunately I can't cater everyone, some people like the information and got linger attention span others don't. This video is for people that want to learn something in a step by step process. The topic is vast and there is a lot of things I still did not say. However thank you for watching 👍
Great video but a little confused… when mixing you introduce bubbles got that, then you can use vacuum chamber or pressure pot got that but what if for my situation specifically if im just trying to get bubbles out before I poor on or over something can the pressure pot not do that in a timely manner? Im not worried about re introducing bubbles I can torch those but all the micro bubbles from mixing I want to deal with. I just got a vacuum chamber and it is not very fast and still figuring it out but pressure pot seems more promising but is it just for casting? Thanks
As I have mentioned in the video, the pressure pot does not remove air bubbles from resin. What it does, with great pressure it collapses the air bubbles to tiny particles that are not visible to human eye. And they stay that way as the resin cures. If you release the pressure before the resin cures they will give back to initial sizes. Hope this clears things out
@@CasualDIY Yes it does, I am new to it all and figuring things out, I asked because I had purchased a pressure pot and it came yesterday so was trying to figure out if I was going to send it back because I am not casting parts… I couldn’t help myself and opened it anyway and ran a couple quick tests…. After mixing some resin with a ton of bubbles both big and micro I put it in pot for 20 min and it came out clear and I poured it. Did have a few bubbles but i poured it sloppy but it did work better than the vacuum chamber which led me to believe If I want to use the vacuum chamber only then I need to find a much lower viscosity resin. Thanks for the reply appreciate it!
Great video, thanks. For vacuum chamber, is it possible to greatly reduce risk of foaming in mold, by first outgassing the air bubbles from the liquid resin in the chamber, then carefully pouring the resin into the mold (to avoid creating new bubbles), then placing the mold (with resin) into the vacuum chamber while it cures?
You can, however its not efficient you have to be there all the time during the whole process to control foaming. Plus you would have to use resin that has got a very long open window. For casting I mold it's far better to use pressure chamber.
Exactly. I vacuum degas the resin components before careful mixing (if the mixed pot life is too short to degas mixed) in order to pull some of the dissolved gas out of solution. Normally the resin components have dissolved all the gas it can at room temp and pressure and are saturated. Placing them under vacuum not only causes bubbles to enlarge and rise, it also causes gas to come out of solution and bubble off. The components are now desaturated, holding less gas than they are capable of. This makes them able to dissolve gas even before pressure is applied, and dissolve even more gas when pressure is applied. Maybe it's overkill and the pressure pot is doing most of the work, but even with very rapidly curing resins, I have never seen even one bubble. Not even when inclusions like glitter are present that tend to promote bubble formation. And in those cases where the mold was not made under pressure and may have air bubbles that will deform under pressure and can't be used in the pot, it helps a lot to reduce bubbles even when there is not enough pot life to degas the mixed resin.
Will a pressure pot or vacuum chamber remove LARGE voids say 2mm or 5mm or larger. I have an electronics project that uses a quick setting epoxy for potting that starts setting up in 8 minutes. If you get it into the pressure pot or vacuum chamber in about 3 minutes will it remove the large voids? Small bubbles of 0.5mm is not a problem, but it cannot have large voids. Thank you for any suggestions/advice. Unfortunately changing the epoxy is not an option. The cavity filled with epoxy is Ø6mm x 35mm deep and filled with a syringe.
If the casting mold is not filled up correctly with resin ie you got large voids then it's the case of distributing the resin in the casting mold. Only then the pressure pot will remove small air bubbles. It may not help with distributing the resin in the mold.
The pressure pot pushes the air out of the resin, as the resin is heavier than air. It pushes the resin into the mold, forcing the air up and out. It doesn't just make the air so small you can't see it....
I haven't experienced that "pressure pot pushes the air out of resin" and I have made many tests over the years. Also using materials with cavities on many occasions it will not be 100% filled. That depends on resin viscosity, curing time and so on.
@@CasualDIY probably depends on the complexity of the mold and the type of resin and whether or not the resin has been vacuumed first (vac part a and b separately so less air is in when mixing slowly) the pressure pushes the resin into the tiny gaps that air likes to stick to, and the air doesn't have anywhere to go but up... But I'm also using wider shallower molds, which may explain my experiences vs average If you use wider base cups so the resin is less deep in the vac chamber btw it finishes faster as there is less vertical for the air to go through. (To an extent. More always still means longer like you said).
Sorry not sure what you are trying to ask? How to mix resin? If so then I got a whole video on that ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KhLKcJbldRQ.html
@@CasualDIY exactly that, you mentioned in the video that “I shouldn’t mix it in this way, and I’m unsure what part I should about , thank you I’ll check the video out 🌹
So my pressure pot removed the bubbles perfect, However whenever I use my pressure bot the top surface quality isn’t as good. I seem to get some weird waxy top surface on anything exposed yto air does anyone know why this would be ?
@@CasualDIY hey and thanks for the reply it’s seriously frustrating all this trial and error. However I don’t think I’m adding pressure to fast as I’m using a car tyre compressor and it takes roughly 5 mins to get ti 45 psi. I’ve read online that it looks like something called Amine blush which seems to be caused by moisture in the air but not sure how I can solve that
@@BigPappaP you need a filter between the pot and air compressor
2 года назад
Hello Thomas, I have tried epoxy resin project twice. I couldn't. the result was disappointing. Later I realized that this job has many details. And there are aspects that I need to learn. And I didn't have the courage to try again. but someday I will definitely use an epoxy resin for woodworking. Thank you for sharing this detailed and beautiful information about resin casting. all the best. See you.
Yes working with resin can be challenging and expensive. It's always worth to do as much research as possible before own experimentation. Got a whole playlist with some resin tutorials if you want to check them out👍
You mixed both resins at the same time, but the one you placed in the vacuum chamber sat out longer while you spent time placing the first one into the pressure pot. You should’ve mixed each one individually for a more accurate comparison.
This was great! I recently purchased a pressure pot and a vacuum chamber but was not sure how or when to use one unit over the other, now I know. I purchased a silicone handle mold and was going to put it in the vacuum chamber - boy what a mess that would have been. Thanks so much for doing this for all of us.
For clear resin casting, you need to degass the resin after mixing, pour the mold, then use a pressure pot to have the best chance of not having a bubble. You need both.
Depending what resin you are using. For that long of a process you would have to use a resin with very long open window and I mean long. Usually those types of resins are used for river tables etc and are self degassing - curing time several days. If you degass the resin then pour it into a mold then you will introduce air bubbles in the process. Pointless task if you have a pressure pot that will remove 99% of visible air bubbles.
In vacuum degas think like a fish. A larger surface area allows for faster degas. Also, heat and temperature make a difference. If possible magnetic stir.
That pump is severely underpowered. It looks like it's 3 CFM, max. You really want 5-6 CFM for this. That would account for the time it's taking. Ideally, vacuum your resin prepour, and pressurize it while it cures. The pressurization compresses any air bubbles that remain from vacuuming or trapped air from the pour and reduces their size.
That's true, I have 3CFM which is bit underpowered but it does what I need it to do. I don't see the point of two stages. Usually you will be using fast curing resin in the pressure pot as it would cure too fast for any other solution. Never had any issue when using just a pressure pot. Long open window resins that would be suitable for that long two stage process you suggested are in most cases self degassing so the need of that process is not relevant.
One pumps air out (hence vaccume chamber and you need a vaccume pump) and the other one pumps the air in ( hence pressure chamber and you need an air compressor) Two different tools.
I'm guessing you have not watched the video carefully. Pressure Pot does not remove air bubbles. It creates high pressure that squeezes the air bubbles to sizes that are not visible by human eye. You need to let the resin cure inside of the pot under pressure. Otherwise as you release the pressure before the resin sets the air bubbles will go back to original sizes. What you describe is suitable for the vacuum chamber however you would require resin with very long open work window as the process of removing air bubbles can take some time ( depending on thickness of your resin and amount of your resin ). You will still introduce some air bubbles during the process of pouring. So if your projects are large I would suggest investing into slow curing, self degassing resin.
Hi SIR.. THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY..MAY WE ASK A QUESTION AS WE HAVE THIS WEEK BOUGHT A VACUUM TANK....THE QUESTION IS HOW BIG A CONTAINER CAN YOU PUT INTO THE VACUUM AS THE BOOKLET WHICH WAS IN THE BOX SAID NO MORE THAN FOUR INCHES WIDE AND NO MORE THAN EIGHT INCHES HIGH...THIS IS A FIVE GALLON ONE SO THAT DOSE NOT SEEM TO MAKE SENSE AT ALL... SORRY TO BOTHER YOU BUT HOPE YOU MAY SOLVE THE WORRY....THANKING YOU...DAVID..AUSTRALIA...
Maybe I'm just slow, but are you saying a pressure pot is a bad choice when casting molds? I'm making dice and using silicon molds, and I want to make sure I buy the right thing. Thank you :)
I think to make molds it's better to invest in a vacuum chamber. Usually the material you use to make molds has got a long open window and it's easier to remove air from them with a vacuum chamber. A pressure pot does not remove air bubbles as per say, with the pressure it squeezes the air bubbles to sizes that are not visible to human eye and as the resin sets to a solid state they will remain in that size. However if you were to use silicon or something similar there is a good chance that the air bubbles will go back to their initial size as silicon is not hard and solid when cured. Hope this is clear.
Ideally, there would be a pressure canner that has an added attachment point (and sealable when used with heat) for a compressor so you can use it for preserving or curing. A vacuum chamber can also be used for vacuum sealing jars of dehydrated food.
I'm looking for budget setup for vacuum resin infusion, do you think your setup could be modified to make it possible? I'm thinking I could drill a hole in the acrylic lid and feed and seal a resin tube through (the tube that is connected to the mould and is sucking in the resin)... What do you think?
Many thanks, that's a brilliant video! Is a vacuum chamber applicable for sodium alginate to make impressions? I know how to make sodium alginate curing process longer (up to 20 min), but I don't know how sodium alginate will "behave" in a vacuum chamber, if it will raise 4x times or even more.
An idea I had - relevant for fast curing resins Can you degas the resin and the hardener *before* mixing, and then mix them under vacuum using some device? (Something like the magnetic stirrer that chemists use inside beakers) Then theoretically the mixing won’t introduce any air bubbles - and your resin will be ready for casting immediately after mixing
20:59 i thought I saw something in the pressure pot casting, but I couldn't tell if it was simply part of the shape of the bottom of the cup, or air bubbles. If you pause the video at the point above, then zoom in on the left side of the screen, you can see one oblong shape and one circular shape. These certainly LOOK like air bubbles 🤔 Am I mistaken?
What a great informative video, thank you. I'm thinking about doing more with resin and trying to decide which one to get 1st. As a bonus tip for you and/or your followers, if you work on cars, that vacuum pump is essential in doing AC repairs and fill ups, so it is useful for at least one other thing I can think of. 😏 Thanks for the video!
Hi, I have a question. I am making a large resin cuboid with over 8 litres of resin. I don't think it's going to fit in a pressure chamber and I can't have any bubbles in it. I am also scared of my resin cracking when I pour (as it happened on my first attempt). My question is: what do you suggest I do for a larger resin quantitity? Many thanks!
I would do it stages if possible, maybe 2l at a time? Not sure if that would be possible in your project. Plus you may get visible layers if you do that. Try to find a Resin with very long open window that's designed for deep castings. These type of resins are self degassing mainly used for river tables.
Great video! In an ideal world I think I'd use a pressure pot for my pieces, but in the real world, where budget is the most important thing, I'll try a vacuum chamber first.
You mentioned that the pump with the vacuum chamber was a dedicated use item as opposed to the air compressor. I've been wondering if there is another use. Is a vacuum chamber's pump suitable to use with a vacuum bag?
You can use it to vacuum seal dry foods (beans, rice, pasta) in canning jars. As for sealing bags, it can't be done without introducing air into the chamber.
I want to fill resin in gemstone so which is best vaccum chember or pressure pot,or best clearance after vaccum put resin in pressure pot please guide me
@@sonuverma2796 40 - 60 PSI depending on your pressure pot as it will have some set max you should never exceed, the PSI will be the same for any resin project, it makes no difference what it is.
What would the results be if your vacuumed the two resin components in separate cups. That would remove any trapped air that was intruduced during shippng. Then blend them GENTLY before pouring in the mold outside of the vacuum chamber? Seems like that give much more working time before the short working time of some resisns starts to set.
Hello Thomas, i was looking for those, but dont really know the difference. Thanks for this video, because of you i know... Take care and thanks again.
They will come back, pressure pot does not remove the air bubbles per say. It squeezes them to microscopic sizes that wont be visible to human eye. As resin sets it closes the air bubbles in that state. If you release the pressure before resin is set the air bubbles will come back to original size,
So if I mixed up 1500ml of epoxy in the vacuum that would be a problem if it takes 25 min to be bubbleless as my resin gets hot after about that time and would start smoking up ,its catch 22 really .i do need one as I just had a load of micro bubbles get trapped in my big epoxy dining table and now I got to go back and router it all out as it’s clear resin .I’m not a happy bunny today and now i thinking about buying one as I can’t have this again ,and the weather has changed now so if you doing these in a shed like me then you need to keep it warm in there as I been getting like this cracking of the resin after it has cured and it’s a right pain in the arse .good vid and demo tho mate that helped me out nice one I’m subbing you for that .would of been great if you would of done a litre of epoxy in a small bucket to see how that would go as not everyone casts in a mould ,I just do tables and don’t really pour less than 500 grams a time unless I’m doing seal coats that is but none the less thank you 🙏
If you are making tables with resin and large pours and you are in need of a solution to degass your resin then you got a wrong resin my friend. Vacuum will not work for those quantities. You need a slow setting self degassing resin for tables. 24h cure time self degassing for deep pours.
@@CasualDIY yeah deep cast resin but I have had clear results using warm water to warm it up before hand . I’m getting like snake skin effects after curing some times . You don’t know what causes it do you ?? I sand and polish mine but some times when I’ve polished it it looks really good untill you put a light right close to it and then can see the snake skin hologram. Even though I sanded it the right way thru the grits to 3000 grit some times I get that. I buy my resin from Germany . I’m in the uk . And am paying about 8-£10 per kilo which is the cheapest I’ve found for the results I get with it . I put some of mine work on RU-vid . I would be interested to know what you think of what I’ve done . I’ve been doing it for 3 years now and I had no wood work experience so I’m self taught through RU-vid vids like your selfs and others . Thanks for replying mate . Top man 👍
@@roxoriginal732 Well first of all the resin may be the problem. I use resin from Resin Pro for deep pours. They got 5cm deep and 10cm deep, and they work great. Now apart from resin itself there may be a lot of issues, like temperature in your workshop, humidity, not mixed correctly etc. I'll have a look at your videos and see if I can find something.
At 5"15 you explain that the black valve on the pressure pot is to modify the desired pressure. At 10"10, you explain that you're adding the air pressure slowly and you appear to be controlling that rate with the inlet valve. At about 10"40, when you have achieved your desired pressure you switch off the inlet valve. Is it not the case that the black valve is in fact a flow rate valve, which you can turn down to reduce the amount of splatter inside the pot? Whereas the desired pressure is set by the user at the inlet valve?
@@CasualDIY I know, so I don't understand why you're using the inlet valve so cautiously instead of the black flow valve. (Which you may have inaccurately described as a pressure valve.) Maximum respect to your videos. Hope my input is useful.
@@rodrigopadilla832 if the specs are similar to mine then it should be ok. Each pressure pot will have some specifications and requirements so that will tell you exactly what you need
Hi Tomasz great video and easy to follow tutorial as always from you. Would you recommend any specific manufacturers of pressure pots that you see on Polish market? Unfortunately, link to UK website doesn’t work properly. And purchase from Amazon US is not a viable option due to high transport and duty costs
I bought mine years ago and to my knowledge they don't sell them anymore. It's a hard to come by product. Have a look at House of Resin store, they used to have it
By putting more pressure into the resin will it get hazy? Because I think by adding more pressure it will add more moist into the chamber and the resin will absorb it? Just a thought
You should have a filter between the compressor and the pot. Makes no difference how much pressure you add, if you don't have a filter then moisture will get in regardless
Hello and thanks for the video. I have purchased a similar vacuum pump+chamber, although my model is Mophorn RS-1. I have tried it and the bubbles start to come out, as in the video. But they never finish, and the needle never reaches -30, it always stays at -28. I have checked the connections, but in my opinion they are tight and should not leak. Do you know what can happen? How should I proceed to remove as many bubbles as possible, should I open the outside air valve when it is "boiling", i.e. with a majority of bubbles on the surface? Repeat the process several times? Thanks in advance.
If the bubbles are coming out from resin you hold it under vacuum until it stops - be mindful of the foaming if it will overspill then slightly and slowly release the vacuum. Depending on quantity it may take a long time for all the air bubbles to escape. Hence this is only suitable for resin with very long open window. We are talking about 30 - 40 minutes - depending on quantity, the more resin the longer it may take.
Vacuum is measured in inches of mercury. The altitude you live at has a MAJOR impact on the inches of mercury that a vacuum pump can produce. For each 1,000 ft of elevation, you get 1" less of vacuum. In the mile high city of Denver, you won't get much above 25". And that is also why water boils at a lower temperature at higher elevations.
Great video , i have a question when you say i took 20 minute for the vaccum chamber . You made it run for 20 minute or you did it for 5 min and let the resin inside for the 15 minute left ?
What about a mixed workflow - put component parts separately into the vacuum chamber, then mix carefully, then pour and put into pressure chamber for curing.
If you got a pressure chamber there is no need for anything else. As I showed in the video I introduced as much air bubbles as I could in the resin and straight it went to the pressure chamber. And as you seen it came out crystal clear. No need for anything else👍
@@CasualDIY Depends if you have working time though to do that, if you wanted to use a faster setting or different resin or a resin where the pressure method does not work as well may still be fallback?
@@Festoolification I think you confused it Vacuum Chamber. Pressure Chamber is perfect for fast setting resin. You just put your mold with resin to the Pressure Pot, lock it and add air. That's it. Then you just wait for the resin to set👍
@Casual DIY no I won't lie I open it to check it time to time. And I just realized that I was losing pressure but I fixed it. The gage was loose so I put that white tape on and tighten it
