If you join the Patreon, you get access to our exclusive Discord server. But you knew that already...unless? www.patreon.com/modernrogue This week’s free giveaway is our most-jam packed puzzle box yet: Houdini’s Cell. Learn how to make (and break) locks, move objects invisibly, follow the history of Houdini himself and so much more in one devilish package. Includes a challenge coin, individually numbered lockpick jackknife, Theory11’s premium Hudson deck of cards and more. We’re giving away a misfit Houdini’s Cell to two random winners of this week’s free giveaway. To enter, just sign up at gimme.scamstuff.com (no purchase necessary, giveaway ends 02/13/2020). Misfit items may include small cosmetic blemishes, but are fully-functional. Congrats to the winners of last week's giveaways: RFID badge: Riley Ingram, Alberto Escamilla, Simon Atack, Blake Shockey, and Jaden Sprong ESPKeys: Thomas Defoe and Matthew Berger Miracle Fruit Tablets: Tyke Sykes, Christian Schmidt, and Cullen Chase
You posted this video 4 o'clock in the evening, And i am watching this at 9:51am in morning. And youtube says it was uploaded 7 hours ago. Answer which country I am from? Show me who's the real rogue. I would Love to hear answer from you Guys. i am at 28°North
Disclaimer: I know this is the modern rogue, and what I'm about to write is gonna be totally ignored. Professional forester here: While the principles are somewhat accurate, I would not advise the DIY people to try this. First off, with the tree being dead, the wood is way less bendy, and will crack before you even come close to being able to fell it. Secondly, while there were no branches on this one, when choosing the direction you wanna fell it, you wanna take both the lean of the tree, and the branches weight into account. Otherwise it might fall backwards. If you do wanna fell a tree with an axe, instead of doing this, start the wedge cut with a horizontal cut, and then chop out the wedge downwards. This will make it much easier to fell. The hingewood is just as an important factor in how the tree will fall, as the wedge cut out. Make sure you have an even hinge, and that the cut from behind, does not go past end end of the wedge. And if you do use a chainsaw, remember your safety gear. Should you cut yourself in the leg with a chainsaw, you'll be lucky if you only lose the leg. -Greetings from a danish forest worker,
ya, they should have roped it with tension in the direction they want it to fall, off another tree or an anchor in the ground so that it practically cant fall backwards.
@@MountainLich I mean, that is a valid tactic(though with larger trees or extremely one sided branching or lean I'd recommend a proper winch). It isn't always necessary though, which is why you should take a good look at the tree before felling it. Not to mention, be extra careful if it's windy.
This is peak Modern Rogue: The undercut halfheartedly nibbles into the tree instead of making a wedge, the sawing goes terrible (keep the saw straight, Murphy!), and in the end it just gets pushed over.
@Ryan Adkins I actually remember I was at a summer camp at the age of like 15 and a tree, maybe not that size but like half that size fell during a storm and I started carrying it around and using it a walking stick for the rest of the one week camp. It was funny.
I had a job felling a tree (as a volunteer) at a local wildlife preserve, so in order to not introduce noxious fumes and loud mechanical noises into the preserve, I chose to use an axe and hand tools to fell a leaning tree. What they didn't tell me was that the tree in question I needed to take down was ironwood. I was tired AF by the end of that day.
How to cut down a tree: - Find a rotten tree less than 6 inches in diameter - Spend 3 hours carefully setting up the felling strategy - Inadvertently uproot the tree
Unfortunately, I didn't film my attempt at the real way to not cut down a tree. For reference, it takes an insane amount of rifle damage to take down an 8" thick oak tree.
Valderhide I’m a professional tree climber so I cut down trees with a chainsaw but I’ve used an axe before and I was coming down here to say the same thing lol
Appreciate the Book mention brothers, you should come out to my school for a class on me and we will film some stuff while you are here, might be cool-
"If I had 4 hours to cut down a tree, I'd spend the first 3 hours just like, sort of chopping at the bottom of it and then realize I could just push it over by the roots. Then I would have an hour for free. What were we talking about?" - Abraham Lincoln
I chop trees a bit on my property so I know how tiring it can be, so I came expecting a laugh, but I never imaged they would try to cut flush with the ground lol.
Yea, I always cut my trees standing up. You don't want to be on your knees, especially if the tree starts falling. Its always way easier on your life (and your back) to cut the stump down after. Also, they needed a proper felling axe, it should take really good visible chunks out of the tree, and it should be easy to make nice straight lines with it (if you're accurate enough). The axe they were using was also def not sharp...
Mohammed Shaker Very much so - they're chopping so close to the ground that it's tough to do accurately and forcefully at the same time. They were neither. At least knee height lets you get some power into the swing and actually bite into the wood. Even a dead, dried, rock hard tree should chip under the force of an axe swung by a grown man. My 13 year old daughter was doing better when we were cutting firewood last fall, to be honest. We do almost all of it with chainsaws, but we still cut a few with axes to feel like manly men, or manly teenaged girls, as it were.
Coming from a family that's been in the sawmill/timber milling trade since the 1650s, I have to say that this is the most cringy video I've ever seen.👏👍🏻
About Brian’s “sting operation”. One of the first things credit card fraudsters see before cloning a card is the BIN (first digits of the number) and the associated information. This information would say “@privacy.com’s bank@ PREPAID” or similar.
Knowing when your tired is important, was doing some splitting work and missed the log, edge missed but felt the wide part brush leg, called it good for the day
*Browser Tab Title:* "Pretty Much How To Chop Down A Tree" *RU-vid Title:* "How to Fell a Tree" *In-video Title:* "How To Cut Down A Tree" *In-video Actions:* **accurate explanation of how to chop/saw a tree down** *In-video Results:* **one Chevy Chase'd tree**
I’m just glad they even uploaded this, most channels would just bin this video into trash and think of another. Props for them for going with the vid even tho it didn’t work out so much we enjoyed it.
These guys are some of the most uncoordinated people I ever seen have a RU-vid channel of this kind. They can't handle any tools or such yet so determined to learn.
You guys should totally build a guitar with someone like guns and guitars! That would so be the Modern Rogue! They’d have their own special guitar to woo the ladies with.
Ok, a dude that went to school to work with trees here, a few things that I want to point out. 1: Any tree taller than you, I'd use a helmet, things can fall and it's not good. Primarily branches but old dead trees could possibly snap from the vibration depending on how bad it is. 2: When deciding where to fell it, take into account if the tree is leaning and if the distribution of branches is lopsided. 3: Make sure to get the wedge properly made or the tree can fall unpredictably. 4: Make the felling cut in line with the bottom of the wedge but *NOT* lower. A small bit higher is better than lower. 5: The felling cut NEVER goes all the way through the tree, you leave a bit (depending on how tall the tree is, but an inch is good for medium trees in my mind) to act as a hinge to guide the tree down (if properly trained you can also leave the hinge uneven to make the tree kinda spin around and avoid another tree or other obstacle blocking the path in the direction where you want it). 6: Never cut down a tree if you are unsure about anything regarding the process, you could damage property, injur yourself or others or even die or kill someone else. Always seek out professional help or get proper training before going out to cut down any "taller" tree. Also, to measure out a tree to know where the top lands, take any straight item, like a stick, and make it as tall asfrom your hand (when holding the stick in hand) to your shoulder. Then you simply walk away and check when the bottom of the stick matches with the bottom of the tree and the top of the stick matches with the top of the tree. Where you stand is where the top of the tree lands (if you actually make it land over there). Or you can simply take a measurement from where you stand after following these steps to the tree and you have how tall the tree is and can measure it out in any direction. This can be used if you want the tree going in a certain direction that doesn't have a clear line of sight of the full tree but another direction does. So you just use the stick trick and then measure the distance to the tree and now you can check any direction. I probably could add more stuff, but this should be enough to cover the basics. Good luck and be careful.
@@joshuapollack2921 actually the sharper an axe is the easier it is to use as I can bit into the wood more cleanly also the axe they were using was dull as anything it made a very dull thud as they were chopping you should be able to hear it cutting the wood not bludgeoning it
@@Tater_Lord I agree, a good edge is important, in the end I suppose its up to preference. I would like a good middle ground where I can work easily without my edge folding or chipping
I love it when I try something for hours and hours, and the outcome end up being what I expected, but not because of anything I did and all those hours ended up being useless. It's like the universe is telling me, "Even when you get what you want, never forget, your efforts will always be futile."
what is funny is I JUST bought a hatchet with intent to make a new handle for it and sharpen the blade. Then I see this video in my feed. You guys did Damn Fine.
Well seasoned dry cedar like that is a very hard wood and particularly difficult to chop, that's why its used in construction and furniture making, green or still living wood is much easier to chop. If you're cutting firewood for the winter its best to fell trees in the late summer/ early fall, and cut them into roughly the size you need for your fireplace or furnace, then stack them to dry for a few weeks. Green wood is easier to chop, seasoned wood is easier to split with a log splitting wedge, the more you know.
My husband has taken over the TV so all I watch now is y’all. Pretty good except sometimes I need a break, then I’m good for another marathon. Today I just had to say; come on guys - the tree - held up by rocks and no roots🤣 and cutting it down - big swings only 2 hitting points. You have grown on me. “Is it time to reset the safety meter?”
After scrolling through the comments I have three things I'd like to contribute, one which I also saw someone else already commented but I thought I might clarify. 1. Clean of the bark from where you're gonna be working as it may have tiny rocks or other debree that will dull your tools quickly. 2. When the tree falls remember that the low end might kick up a bit so don't stand right next to it. 3. When chopping the wedge, alternate horizontal and angled cuts. The horizontal ones to cut the fibers and define the bottom of the wedge and angled cuts to chop out the wedge along the top of the wedge down to your horizontal cut.
i laughed the entire time! great content! i 100% knew why you were struggling, spongy chop, no choppy choppy. had me actually rolling. Y'all are the best.
When, after all Jason's efforts with the saw, Brian just pushes the tree over I was just inordinately pleased. Thanks team for bringing joy to an otherwise miserable, 'flu-filled day!
For sizing a tree, get a strait stick off the ground (or cut one) get back far enough so the stick matches the tree size. then lay it over where you want to drop the tree to see how much room you need for it to land. Maybe, not the best explanation, but if you try it you should be able to see what a keyboard doesn't relate well.
One tip to keep your tools protected from debris and stay sharper longer, you can remove the bark around the area you're going to cut first. Bark can contain foreign objects like stones or even nails when they are around houses.
All this leadup just to something Bryan said right at the beginning of the video. This, for some reason, is way more satisfying than you actualy chopping the tree down.
My friends used to hang in the woods near our house and we used to cut down trees. The cypress trees in the forest were diseased so alot of them were so dead and rotten you could push them and knock them down. The oak trees were pretty hard to remove. We made what was effectively a little stoner haven. :)
First of all, I absolutely love you guys. If I could afford a patreon subscription, I'd do it in a heartbeat. Secondly, if you were to stand up straight, hold the axe out with both arms fully extended and on the bottom 6 inches of the shaft 😉, and then align your feet so the axe touches the tree, you could swing with full force and still maintain a decent accuracy with your swings. Not a professional, but I did chop down trees for fun growing up.
When using an axe, you want to make your strokes hit the tree at an angle from your last cut. Instead of making cuts at 90 degrees from the axis of the tree, try making your first cut to be about 45 degrees. The next cut should be at 45 degrees but at the opposite direction. You could also alternated between 90 and 45 degree cuts. Axes work better when you are using them to break big chunks of wood out of the cut. Brian had the right idea when you were sawing the opposite side. Opening the cut will help to prevent the saw from getting pinched. When cutting big trees, they pound wedges into the cut to help keep it open and encourage the tree in the right direction. This tree wasn't really an issue, but when you start cutting big tall dead pole-like trees, you can run the risk of them breaking off towards the top. These trees can sometimes be referred to as widow-makers. If the tree is tall enough, shaking it or striking it at the ground can cause it to shake quite a lot at the top, this has resulted in a 10' (or whatever length) piece at the top of say a 70-100' tall tree to break lose and come plummeting down on top of the cutter. Often killing them, hence the name. If you are trying to get into some more "bush-crafty" type stuff, you could consider doing some sort of collab with a RU-vidr who does modern homesteading. I'm sure there are plenty of options out there, but I know Wranglerstar does all sorts of videos on tree cutting and could make for interesting content. Aside from his RU-vid channel he is a wildland firefighter. He will go aid forest fires in his areas.
I grew up in a logging town in Idaho, literally my earliest memory was trying to chop down a tree with my first pocketknife (4 yrs old or so). My dad and I would harvest firewood for the winter all summer long.... Watching how many chops they took and how hard they made it for themselves was both painful and hilarious
If anyone cares you had the right info, but there were just a couple things off. You want to aim for an angle of attack that is roughly waist level or a bit lower, and then bring the axe in at a flat angle to start. The helps forming your wedge and makes it a bit easier to actually swing. As for the back cut you can find plastic wedges that are perfect for this, you slide them a quarter inch in then beat on them with a mallet until it sheers properly.
I have helped with cutting trees in the past. Every time we ended up using a car and a rope to guide the tree. It is a pain, like a few hours with a chainsaw just to fell it, then weeks of on and off choping to cut the logs into manageable size and piling them up. That said I have only really worked with fairly massive trees.
It helps to start the top of the wedge cut first. Hit the tree in a downward motion to create the angle cut. Then once that is done, hit the tree straight on a few inches down. Once you’re through you’ll have a wedge... instead of a bunch of chunks taken out.
To measure how far the tree will fall, get a branch (or axe handle) the length of your arm. Hold your arm straight out, and branch straight up. Walk out until the top of the branch visually lines up with the top of the tree, and hand visually lines up with shoulder height on the tree. The tree will roughly reach where you stand. This is basically making two right angle triangles with 45 degree corners. One from your eyes to hand to branch tip. And the other from your eyes to tree base to tree top. It does require level ground.
Another thing and this is about sharpening ur axe one side of the double bit should have a more obtuse angle and that is the side u want to use when chopping near the ground. The other side should be a more acute angle so it bites into the wood more and that is the side u will be using when ur not near the ground. And u should chop at a higher level u can always come out and saw the stump down or u could use a truck and pull it out or something
If you create that first V-notch, you better cut 45 degrees downwards, and only hit square on to clear out the produced chips (except you use a stone axe). - Some trees lean to one direction, and the bigger they are, the more likely they are to fall in this direction. To determine that, you can hold your axe in front of you with the bit down, creating an improvised plumb line. If possible, allow the tree to fall in that direction. Also, if you got a double bitted axe, it should have two different grinds - one bigger angle for hard wood, one smaller angle for soft wood, allowing for more precision and less fatigue in your felling jobs. Lastly, if ever in doubt if the tree falls where it should,get a rope and pull in that direction, best by slightly tensioning the line between an anchor and the tree before you even make the first cut, so you don't have to stand there.
A couple of tips for next time. 1. Cut higher as this will keep your back from carrying your weight and the axes. 2. Use a saw to make the first face cut. It will give you a point of reference and will allow you to just swing down into the face cut
This is crazy. Just a few days ago, out of rage, I grabbed the first good ax I could find, went into the woods, and spent a little over an hour chopping down a tree (completely legally; it was on property I own).
Love you guys, Love your channel... but.... You're sooo urban (chuckle) It makes my rural roots giggle when I watch you fellas struggle with this stuff. Everybody starts somewhere for sure! I just find myself yelling at the TV trying to help, but truly enjoying you both learn as you go. It reminds me of watching my teenager figure stuff out when we're working on his dirt bike. Thanks for such great content, don't stop! I do learn a lot from you guys as well, it's not all just sillyness. :)
I was once working as a volunteer, maintaining hiking trails in Michigan. The large depression forest pines are very tall, say 40-60'. We were looking for dead standing trees to eliminate, "widow makers", I was right next to one considering how to deal with it, and another volunteer came up and gave it a sharp push. This 8-10" thick tree snapped midway up and came down directly at me, I dodged it. Be careful around dead trees, if I wasn't looking right at it I wouldn't have reacted in time.
I know this is the Modern Rogue and not a lumberjack channel but, you might want to aim higher up in the future. This allows for an easier cut, allows more strength in the swing, safer for you as less chance of a miss-swing and less back strain having to bend down to cut. If you want to save as much timber as possible, use a saw whether that's a good ol' chainsaw or a cross saw.
