As a professional painter I appreciate the video. Good information. One thing I would add is always prime over previously painted surfaces if that surface was painted with an oil-based finish coat and you are planning on painting over it with a latex finish coat. This situation happens a lot with woodwork. The paint on my sister's woodwork was peeling off only a few months after she had her entire house painted. The people she hired painted over her woodwork with a water-based latex paint without checking to make sure the original finish was oil-based. Turns out it was. I went around and took several days to scrape off the latex finish, priming it, and then applying a latex finish coat. Luckily it was a one-floor home. Also, some people may ask why you would prime over a previously-painted wall area simply because it was a dark color. If you plan on changing the color to a lighter one, priming once (or even twice in some extreme circumstances such as going from a navy blue to an off-white) will likely save you money as most primers are relatively cheap compared to quality finish coats. So one coat of primer and two coats of finish paint will cost less than three coats of finish paint.
Thanks for the information. How do you know whether a wall had been painted using latex or oil? Is there a way to inspect it to make sure? And let's say you wanted to re-paint a light coloured wall with something light as well (say white ->beige), would you still have to go through the process of priming before painting?
@@Ahmad-Str You can take some rubbing alcohol and put some on a cotton ball. Rub a small area with the cotton ball. If some paint comes off on the cotton ball, it's latex. If no paint comes off on the cotton ball, it's oil. If the walls are latex AND you are going over a light color with another light color you can skip the priming if you want. Also, I would like to add that it is exceedingly rare to find walls previously painted with oil-based paint. In my eleven years I only ran into that one time. It was a historical home where the owner wanted to continue painting their walls with oil-based finish coat. Woodwork is much more likely to have been painted with oil. However, that is also becoming less common as the quality of water-based finishes for woodwork have increased dramatically over the last 20 years.
@@Babes710 You can use any type of multi-purpose primer. The multi-purpose primer by Sherwin Williams as shown in the video above is good. I personally like using the water-based KILZ 2. They sell KILZ 2 at any Home Depot or Lowes. It's easy to use and bonds nicely. Also, it wouldn't hurt to sand the surface you are priming with 220 grit sandpaper.
Thanks, I’m painting the bedrooms of 2 of my kids who are now grown up & gone. One bedroom is painted purple and black and the other bedroom is blue and pink. I’m going with a more traditional color. Very helpful.
Good luck with it! Remember, another coat of paint will change the color faster than a primer will. Try to pick a high-hide paint (usually a higher quality paint).
Thank you! I have old, original basement windows of my 70’s house (not egress!) and they allow plenty of light in and anyways I hate the idea of replacing them. I’ve tried primers from Home Depot and Menards cheaper exterior primers to zinzer and all primers have peeled off sometimes within months. So after having the siding replaced and new upstairs windows installed I decided to tackle this once again but doing it the right way with sanding or prepping first. I started on just one first to get familiar with the process and sanded one window removing all the original leftover paint which wasn’t much left and freshened the old wood which some was rotting. I used Bondo’s wood hardner/restorer next going with 4 coats in total applying every 2 min anywhere the wood was softer than other spots and that made a big difference and definitely worked to harden the wood again. This wood was really soft below the glass which makes sense but this product worked perfectly. Then I moved onto Bondo’s wood filler which dried almost immediately because of the heat but I eventually filled places where the wood had rotted away or there were holes, etc. and after waiting a few hrs I finally put on my first coat of SW’s exterior oil-based wood primer and it seemed to take better than zinzers primer. Probably sanding and removing dirty, rotting wood was the biggest help but I think I’ll add one more coat of this primer and I’ll top coat or paint with SW’s Direct to Metal exterior paint I had left over from painting the metal doors. Hopefully this will last and actually hold on for many years 🙏🏼
Very informative tutorial , I just brought a house and the kitchen is knotty pine so the oil base is what I should you , do I need to use a degreaser on them first?
We cleaned our walls in our new house before painting (gave it ample time to dry as well) we painted emerald interior paint from SW. It started bubbling and we could peel off of the still wet SW paint and the existing paint on the wall was coming up with it as well. Showing another paint layer behind all of that. We think the paint existing on the wall is a very cheap paint and or didn’t bond well to the paint before it. What SW primer would you recommend before we paint with their emerald paint? We have the extreme bond primer already that we used to prom our trim (a SW worker recommended it for the trim).
Hey Brianna! Sorry to hear your paint started bubbling :( that's got to be frustrating! You mentioned cleaning the walls in your new house before painting. What cleaner did you use? Also, did you rinse the cleaner off the walls afterwards with a clean damp rag? If no, then the cleaning agent could've left a residue that caused a chemical reaction to your paint. If you did rinse the walls then there's a possibility that whatever was previously painted on the walls was either oil based or glossy. I'd recommend an oil base primer if you think the paint is oil based. If it's latex/acrylic/water-based, then I'd go with the multi purpose primer. When it doubt, prime it out. Any surface you paint needs to be 3 things: -clean -dry -dull Good luck ♡ Emerald is an awesome paint!
If I have Oil paint already on a Wooden door frame exterior which primer would be great for me to use to apply to it so that I can do it in a new color after?
I have a very light pink latex paint that I want to cover with Conservative Gray by Sherwin Williams. Do you think I need to prime over the pink before I paint over it with the gray color?
When I first moved into my house over 20 years ago I did not know better and I painted my living room and dinning room with oil based paint. By the second time I painted with regular paint I noticed that in some areas the paint peeled. Now I know why, the second time I painted it was not with oil based paint but if you touch my walls it seems like I never painted with a different paint because you can feel how slippery the wall is. I need to paint again and I want to know what kind of primer should I use. I think something to cover the oil base paint because it feels like it is still on the walls.
Good video. I think this videos needs to be on the top of the list for priming questions here on youtube. Anyhow, I do have a question. Can the HIGH BUILD PRIMER be used on skimmed walls?
Very very good and strategic vid for newbies or refresher. The shalac being its own entity. How is it cleaned? Mineral spirits or hopefully water is enough.
Great video. I accidently used non-paintable white silicone around my door trim that I need paint. Sherwin recommended extreme bond primer to use over the silicone. Do you agree? Thank you for the help.
YES .... I know .... too late .... but yes , silicone does not like paint , you'll have to seriously prime it first .... never use silicone on anything you want to paint .... you can use "siliconized" caulking (DAP ALEX PLUS) but not pure silicone per se .... paint beads up on silicone
What SW latex primer would you use for remodel where there is a combination of existing painted drywall, drywall patching and new drywall? The multipurpose? PVA? Or a combination of both (or maybe the PVA on all the new drywall and patches and then the multipurpose over everything once the PVA dries? Thanks.
I would use Sherwin’s High Build Primer. This will fill the pores in the new drywall and provide a thick coverage over the patches on existing. More importantly, use 2 finish coats to ensure an even finish.
If you have drywall that was last painted ten years ago, and is showing its age but you don’t want to skim coat it, would using the high-hide primer help?
I painted wood and the paint did not stick after 1 month of curing. Everyone seems to talk about hiding the woodgrain, but I want the woodgrain. After 3 coats of paint, I still had the wood grain look, but the peeling killed my project. I feel I need a primer, but not to hide wood grain. Is this possible?
When they talk about hiding the wood grain, they are probably meaning the differentiating colors. Unless you sand the wood completely smooth, you will see the texture of the wood grain no matter what primer/paint you use. What type of wood is it? Indoor/Outdoor? Pressure treated wood for example needs to weather for a few months prior to coating it or the chemicals will leach out and peel your paint. Same thing will happen if the moisture of the wood is too high when painting.
Is it necessary to prime a baseboard bofore painting. Actually I'm making a breakfast nook from white mdf and it needs baseboards on the corner. Just wondering if only paint would work. I don't mind oil or water based. Please let me know what you suggest.
We recommend priming base board to get the best final appearance. You should prime the baseboard, then caulk, then apply your finish coat. Caulking sticks best to the primer. You could also use a "paint and primer in one" but make sure you understand, the first coat is your primer coat, then it will require at least one more top coat for a consistent look.
Just about every water based primer will not adhere and seal away the oil based enamel. The only exception may Urethane modified acrylic primer like extreme bond. It's a Urethane like oil but it can be cleaned up with water.
I have to paint my front interior door again. It's already store bought white so this is the first time I would do it. Would I need to sand it all first? And would I need primer or a top coat if I'm just painting it white again?
If the door came "prefinished" and is glossy, it needs to be scuff sanded. Simply take a "fine" sanding block and go over the door. It would not need a primer with a high-quality topcoat, but if it were us, we would use the Extreme Bonding Primer from SW just to play it safe.
I bought unprimed 1 x 8 Poplar that I want to use for window stools. What would be the best primer to use before painting? This is interior window trim. Thanks much for your pro opinion!
You could use a multi-purpose latex on poplar if you have any other painting projects. If you wanted something specific, you could get a quart of Premium Wall and Wood Primer.
What do I need to prime my existing walls with for touchup holes and repairs? And do I need to plant the complete walls and ceiling with the primer or just the patch areas?
primer is not NECESSARY on walls at all , it's just overkill , and you do not want to prime "just certain spots" because paint can look different over primed vs non-primed areas , so you want to use the SAME process for an entire wall ..... any wall paint will stick to "repairs" that use the proper materials (sheetrock mud compound etc) .... primers SEAL sheetrock , paints "breathe" and soak in (some paints also seal if you use top quality paints and primer types of paint) , but regardless of what you do , try to perform the SAME application on an entire wall so it doesn't get "shiny spots" .... I always thin my wall paint just a tad so it soaks in and apply a second coat , both coats thinned a wee bit , flows well , soaks in well , bonds well .... some paints will cover in one coat , but I usually find two coats better anyway , so I thin them down just a wee bit so it flows really well and gets in all the pores and pinholes
I am changing the paint color on my interior walls. They were tan. I'm changing them to white. Should I prime them then paint Or could I use a primer included latex paint?
How do I get rid of oil based primer SMELL? It's killing me. I have 6 fans blowing it out and it's still ridiculously strong, even after 2 days! I haven't painted the color yet because I'm waiting for the smell to go away. What do I do about this strong smell. It's Kilz Original (Red Can). OMG!
Don't wait for the smell to go away, paint over top of it, assuming it is dry. Normally it should not smell that long though after though. You could get some charcoal and/or baking soda to help soak up some of the smell, but it's marginal at best.
SW Exterior Primer is necessary as the first coat . Don't believe those House Paint Top coats that say 'Primer+Paint' . Wash, sand, Prime , then 2 coats of exterior Top Coats. I use Duration . JMO
Sounds like it just needs remixed. If you can secure the lid well enough, some paint stores will re-shake it for you. I would recommend a paddle-mixer on a drill though.
only time you really need to prime is for fresh drywall. if painting over paint, you can literally just paint over it. if you are worried about moisture/mold because you are painting in your bathroom, use a Kilz primer. It's a stain blocker and provides a mildew resistant coating
I would not recommend this and here's why. Primer does not have any mildewcides in it and around a bathtub is a high moisture area. Priming it will help with warping, and if you make sure all nail holes and edges are caulked, you may be ok, but I would throw a quick coat of any type of paint on it to help with the moisture.
@2:45 "use this primer , otherwise you'll be using 4 or 5 coats of paint" ????? c'mon man !!!! not true ..... you should prime raw wood so the paint sticks to the wood , NOT so you don't have to paint it 4 or 5 times .... I could put 2 coats of paint on raw wood and it will cover .... but it won't STICK !!!!! Raw wood gets primed so the paint will stick , and I have used Behr Ultra on raw wood (Ultra is "paint and primer") and it worked well , it acted like a solid color stain on first coat , 2nd coat covered just fine ..... Having said that , not ALL paints that say "Paint and primer" work like that , so I pretty much always prime raw wood generally speaking
I'm moving into a new home. One bedroom has dark maroon walls. I THINK they are painted wood panels. What type of primer would I use so I can paint a light color over it? I am also confused as to what type of paint BASE I need to use. Thank you!
The base is relational to the color. Deep bases for dark colors, light bases for lighter colors. A latex white primer would be fine since you are going to top coat with a light color.
Thanks @ajsbrushworksllc. If they are painted wood panels, a latex would be fine. If they're unpainted, I would recommend the Extreme Bond Primer. There are two types of "bases" in paint. You can have water-based (latex) vs oil-based (alkyd); or you can have "white-based" "deep-based" etc. These refer to the color it is being mixed to. You don't need to worry about the second type, that's up to the store employee to decide.
And on top of that the stupid people that I paint for refuse to spend any more money on paint and then this necessary, so always using the cheapest paints and it’s the worst thing you can ever do to paint with, but they don’t seem to get it through their head if they spent 20 more dollars on a gallon of paint, it would take literally an hour or two less of me, trying to put it down the damn walls
Primer is a waste of time and money. If The primer dries in on naval lead, and your topcoats will dry in on evenly. It makes no sense unless you’re gonna put a second go to primer on now you’re at four coats of paint by your paint put it on the walls make it two coats possibly three and it’ll all be even it’s still amount of time, putting one to two coats of primer or one or two coats of paint. It may even save you time and money. It’s a joke primer is a joke never use it never had a problem.
primer and paint in one is garbage no matter what it goes on. I used it on about 5/6 jobs under the "advice" of customers. They were not happy when I charged them again for repainting. More so the 3 days to get all the old shit off. I used Bher shit on all exceot one. I think the other was beutitone. Now I refuse to use it and turn down jobs when the customers are hell bent on using it.
solid color stain better for decks and treated landscape stuff ... make sure treated wood is cured out and dry , never paint it when it's still sort of "wet" to the touch , let that stuff dry ..... Behr makes a pretty good exterior solid color stain , the 10 year stuff , the expensive stuff , water based , i THINK the bucket has a green label I THINK , can't remember , been a while since I used it
So I have new drywall in a kitchen that needs primed and painted. What type of primer should I use for it. Ive see and read that you should use a pva type primer. Can you help please.
