PRM 150 D2 Strip down and repair. 

Really appreciate that. Thanks

The canal network is in desperate need of fresh faces. Trained fresh faces mind.

Can do. Its simple to mount to an engime.

Fabulous machines.

Might need to be opened to asses the clutch cone.

Yes the common issues will be the control valve O ring. Loosing oil will prevent the pump being able to collect oil from the sump and hence the clutches will not be engaged when you try. In my opinion once every say 6-10 years you should open the box and change the seals and gaskets. Inspect all the parts. Some oils cause the O rings to become brittle and loose there soft rubbery nature. This causes oil bypass. The newest hydraulic actuated boxes have a new oil control valve seal. The process to change them is a title more involved. But easy enough with the right know how.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Many thanks for the reply. The boat is in dry dock next week, and we'll be having a close look and hopefully fix the issue.

Hi James, I know this box was used on a widebeam narrow boat. And I think it was used to tow another narrow boat. A combination of age and abuse would do this extent of damage. I also think it's a good idea to flush these boxes after say 5 years use. Just the get rid of any fine particles of matter. I had a PRM260 to strip and asses. It was thought a clutch had failed when in fact a small piece of swarf got caught in the oil control rings which take the positive oil feed. This caused a major drop in oil pressure and hence a failure to drive ahead. Also to note if you have foul on the propeller this will of course stress the clutches. Using the wrong oil is also a bad use if these. The only other thing I can suggest is poor workmanship may cause a premature failure. Hope that helps

With a vacuum pump and a plastic pipe you can get most of it out. The only slight disadvantage is not being able to clean the magnet on the sump nut.

Please explain further. What bolts fell out, were from? The alignment will most likely need to be checked

There is no gasket for the casings it's normally a sealing compound. The case is a sofas precisely mills you shouldn't need much there. My usual preferences the use wellseal. I have used different types of compound for when I apply it on very very very staring I don't like to slap it on because it is all over the place and makes a mess you need to make sure the casing is flat and no dents or chips and just give it a life polish if need be.

I have a similar issue, but the casing seems super difficult to pull apart. Can I ask what tools your using in your video to pry other 2 sides apart?

Have you got the workshop manual? Its free from PRM. All the information is in that.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 hi ya, yes I have I believe, I downloaded it. I can’t work out or remember where that washer goes however

Looking at the kit it suggest to put the small plastic ring on the threaded bolt, the fiber washer goes on first with the steel washer after, this being held on by bolt. The plastic washer/sleeve is the seal the threads. If in doubt speak to PRM as they can better advise. ***Below is pulled from online*** "The oil filter fitted to early PRM gearboxes is now obsolete. Factory advice is to remove the old filter and fit this blanking kit instead. The original inclusion of a filter in the specification was soon deemed to be unnecessary, and from models 101 and 310, no oil filter was fitted. This kit will replace PRM oil filters MT279 and MT926 on PRM gearbox models: PRM 100, PRM 140, PRM 175, PRM 250 and PRM 265 gearboxes".

Thanks for the advice, JB @@dhcrouchmarineltd3049

Hi Andy, glad this was helpful. Is there oil in the box? Usually no ahead or astern means no oil. A failed clutch tend to work but slip. But check the oil level first.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 hello, thanks for reply……. Yes oil in the box, possibly wrong type draining fully today if I can 😬 then get a specialist to look …….. I appreciate you getting back

The workshop manual has all you need to know. They are fairly responsible boxes to work with. Provided you have a good workshop

Which model is yours? Common fault is the oil control ring inside the selection valve. Usually can be done is situ.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 I have a PRM 150D. I have identified the leak as coming from the input drive, the selector valve is all dry. Not sure which bolts to attack now. Beta’s manual is not helping me too much.

@@MrKyzla OK so, the input shaft is the shaft which sits into the drive plate inside the bell housing. The output shaft is the part which connects to the propeller shaft or flexible coupling. Feel free to send me a picture.

This suggest the astern clutch back is warped. If so it'll drag a bit. However some other things to consider, these boxes to have a free to spin output shaft. If this is a sail boat maybe the current is working the propeller. If it's a narrow boat maybe the clutch is just dragging due to the oil viscosity. Does the shaft turn powerfully or is this just a slight spin?

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Hi, thanks for your reply. Its a narrowboat, it hasn't done it before, just started. It's only slightly spinning, I can stop it with my foot. I did just take it out and maybe more serious, when I gave it a fair bit of revs in forward, it suddenly lost power. The gearbox was pretty hot, although I believe it's cooler is working fine..... I did just run it again, and it didn't lose power..... bit bizarre

@@thewigmaker how hot is hot? Did you use a thermometer?

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 It just felt very hot to the touch, I'm guessing it gets pretty hot, but no I didn't have a thermometer

@@thewigmaker it shouldn't get past the engines temperature as it should be part of the same circuit. Change the oil, check the content for any metallic particles and be aware of the color. I've had tiny particles stopping the oil control rings from directing oil to the clutch packs in bigger variants of these. Maybe a small particle is causing an issue.