PRO climbers CAN'T flash this V3 boulder problem | A week in Fontainebleau 

thanks for spreading :))

😮🎉

🤘🤘🤘🤘

insane, thanks for sharing!

agreed. id like to make one additional point: rock quality/age/total ascents of the problem. This is a big factor in font, even more when it comes to this "legendary" boulders. These are just polished af. Some of them, especially the technical ones (and evrything rather old is quite technical there), just got way harder over time after thousands of ascents. This is a big problem in font when comparing the initial grades to modern times or the actual grade now. You can see this problem pop up in other areas too, Albarracin develops these issues too at the moment f.e.

@@Noneymar1 very interesting, never knew polishing was such a big factor!

Congrats on this video, it is very inspiring to go climb outdoors. Though it is really lacking some educational information about the basic rules to make it sustainable : always wipe the sand of your shoes before climbing, never climb on humid rock, don't overuse chalk, dont camp, dont make fire, take your trash with you etc. Worldclass boulderer are not sliping of because its so hard but because feet are slippery as glass. And it is so polished because of the entire crowd of "consumers" coming without any care about anyone coming next.

7a+ on the kilterboard is like 6b boulder outside

@@staticoverplastic7456 it obv depends. But i climbed boulders in Europes SandstoneAreas which had holds feeling like an indoor dualtex (the no texture of course) quite often these holds are the crux holds , just cause they got touched more often (naturally more people have to work on the crux sequence in iso). And yes, if thats the case the boulder is harder than it once was.

You ever thought about coming out to Colorado for some bouldering? HIGHLY recommend!

Thanks man, I really appreciate it. I have thought about it yes, maybe one day!

@@RoadtoV11 my Friends and I would show you Telluride.

Thanks!!

Glad you enjoyed it Carlos!

Thanks a lot!!

Thanks!!

Thanks! The trip wouldn’t had been possible without it!!

Thanks a lot!

Muchas gracias Mario!!

Thanks George!

Thanks Miguel!!

Thanks Michael!

Thanks!!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks man!

Thanks man!

It's just surprising as hell how easy it is to slip off that freaking problem, it's every bit as tricky (and polished) as people say it is, I couldn't get through the crux to save my life over 2 days spent trying, the slopers feel terrible lol.

@@Nightwishmaster I can only imagine! I will try it one day for sure! At the same time it's also hard to imagine because the only times I climbed on sandstone, it was impossible to find any polished holds. From what I was told, the grains of sandstone I was on are much thicker, so instead of getting polished, a thin layer just comme out as you try the problem!

@@raphaelmardinli9921 Fortunately it's not like that there, people have climbed on the boulders so many times for so long there wouldn't be much left if it wore away like that lmao..

Thanks Hannah!

Thanks Garineh!

Thanks 🙏

Thanks a lot!

Thanks! Yeah Font climbing is so intricate, we also find some other problems that we could barely start…!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks man, definitely, you won’t regret it💪🙌

Thanks!!

Thanks!!

Cheers Harry!

Thanks!!

Thanks!

Thanks!!

Thanks!

Thank you 🙏

Thanks!!

Thanks!

Good luck!

Thanks!!

Thanks man!

Thanks!!

Yep same question that looks superb!

Thanks a lot! I can’t remember the name of that boulder, but it is in Franchard Cuisiniere and it was 6A or 6A+ if I remember well…!

that's La Superbe at Cuisiniere

Oligocene sea sand bed... Add silica, quartz and water (pressure) e voilà - some 25 mil. years later, the magical forêt :)

That’s an amazing and solid one to get as a first 6a, congrats! 🎉

@@RoadtoV11 😁

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!!

It’s all in the first half really, the top out although slopey isn’t hard at all🙌

Top out after the 2 wide slopers is easy, but these 2 slopers are so polished and rounded. push your belly out and lay your hands on sidways - thats about good as it gets, maybe a 5-10° degree angle with your hands. Add some supee slippery 2mm footholds and you got a image of the crux

@@ilikebananasFPV thanks for the detailed description!

While I‘m not sure wether Marie Rose should be considered 6C, I can‘t agree your argument against it. That there are a couple of harder 6A could simply show that those are even more sandbagged. If you compare it the majority of 6A in Bleau or elsewhere, La Marie Rose surely is one of the hardest. Maybe it was a perfect fit for the grade in 1946, but it is just not the same climb anymore. The polished stone forces you to be way more precise and keep a lot of tension, while you move. Just imagine the first foothold would not be a piece of glass. That alone would make a huge difference.

@@GrundkursBouldern Nope bro, improve your technique and you'll realize that Marie Rose is a perfect 6A. I've even done it barefoot. And I stand by my argument - it being one of the 1st 6As in the world, it should be considered a benchmark. No more grade inflation by spoiled gym rats please. Next time, try dyno-ing from starting holds to the top out slopers... that is 6C variant more or less (rather 6B+ but i am being generous here). Also, not sure what are you referring to with the first foothold which is not a hold per se, but rather a sloping ramp allowing for a perfect feet placement suiting your own body type. Of course if you are gonna be stretching yourself to max in order to reach highest side pull you'll see from the start, the foot will pop. That is the nature of smearing. Maybe engage in this conversation with some true bleausards, you'll probably be laughed at and humiliated by 80yr old 'grandpa' showing you how real feet technique looks like..

@@GrundkursBouldern I personally am always going for left sidepull, than right foot higher on a razor edged (and polished ;) ) crimp and up slapping the right sloper. Feet do pop a move or even two before going for the right sloper. As for the dyno, I never seen a video of it, only live, having fun in the foret, I haven't seen it on bleauinfo either, not worth publishing honestly. Once you stand in front of it having dyno in mind, you'll figure the jump, I am sure :) Also, really simple compared to e.g. Windmill, or even Smash, Air Sweden etc (if you are not 2 meters tall :D) It is one of the classic 'jeux' meaning games/eliminates. As for the argument: soooo you guys upgrade routes in Jura once they are polished? Did Underground or any other often climbed route in Arco got upgraded just because it is (highly subjectively!) polished? The answer is no... Also, do take time and observe the 'old' Bleausards and how they use their feet, it makes a ton of difference in Font. As I am sure you are well aware - in some problems, raw power won't take you anywhere. Partenaire particulier or even L'angle a Jean-luc comes to my mind as an example. Even Carnage is campus-able but it has no point (and would be one of those jeaux i mentioned earlier). Boulders are graded by the easiest beta, not the hardest... Out of some 830 ratings, ~93% agree on 6A(+) for Marie Rose on bleauinfo currently. That is a pretty solid merit in my eyes. And of course, guys crushing 7Bs shitrless impressing girls in their local gyms not climbing outdoors comming for the first time to Font will be really dissapointed by not being able to climb 6As ;) seen shoes being thrown in anger many times ;)

@@miroz5824 I think, we are doing pretty much the same, except that I reach for the right sloper, still standing on the second sloping ramp, before putting my foot up on that edge. Like I said, I always had trouble holding that right sloper. A friend did use it just as an intermediate, going for the left one first, then to the right and up into the jug. But you need a pretty wide wing span to do that. Jumping Marie Rose is on the list now. Propably a multi year project for me. 😅 To me, it doesn‘t matter much, if anyone calls it 6A or not. It is a historic 6A, that will always be the first one. Maybe that is enough to never upgrade it officially. My point is: Does it get harder, when it is polished compared to the time it was put up - I‘d say yes. Denying that would be like denying, that it is harder to climb on wet holds than on dry ones. (Not that you should do that, but you get the point.) And of course we would not grade a climb differently, when it is wet, although it is objectively harder. Should we take polished rock into account, anyway? That is a difficult question. Grades are obviously not set in stone. Hubble was originally 8c+ and is now considered being the first true 9a by some, taking that title away from Action Directe. For me, that is fine. Moon and Güllich both were beasts and it wouldn‘t make Action Directe any less iconic. On the other hand we‘ve seen multiple downgrades of hard routes, once they have been repeated. Adam Ondra was notorious for doing so a while back. And we do change grades, when holds change, either by breaking or due to chipping. See Karma, which was 8A and is 8A+ now. Especially the last point could be an argument for those, who would like to upgrade older climbs. Of course it is harder to say at which point the rock has suffered enough compared to a broken hold and reopening the route afterwards, but in both cases the rock changed. Personally I try not to care to much about grades, especially on classic climbs. Also I am quite aware of my strengths and limitations. My ultimate goal is to become a better climber. If that means I have to spend a whole day working a 6A slab without getting up in the end, I‘ll take it. I had that experience on Science Friction in Apremont. I failed on the last move, but I learned so much that day, it was worth every try. But do I start asking questions, if I fail miserably on a supposedly easy climb that fits my style? For sure.

​@@GrundkursBouldern I'll try to keep my answer short :) As for the dyno-ing MR: do not expect anything great, it is as I said previously a game. I would rather suggest starting left of Joker traversing two angles and finishing with MR - that is an interesting trav with even worse feet after the first angle than it is in MR as that slab is used for absolute beginners :) I think it is in 6C range. As for polished rock - does anyone upgrade polished routes e.g. in Arco? I don't think so. I also think that polishing something rarely brings the difficulty 2 grades higher. That is very rare. In Bleau, you can adjust feet if you know how to smear. Action Directe is pretty polished too, but there were discussions whether it is a proper 9a or not, no discussion about upgrading it. Of course I am not arguing against grade change when the route changes e.g. by broken (foot)hold etc. That is a normal practice. It is also a normal practice to update grades in new areas after enough ascents, but in classical ones such as Bleau or Boux, the grades hold to this day and should be held as benchmarks. And at the end of the day, I don't care that much about grades, as you said, grades in Bleau should make you humble if nothing else... Of course you'll find new-school power problems that are perfect for gym rats too nowadays... Soooo.... to wrap up... respect the forest, don't climb on wet rock, don't play loud music, don't climb in the night, stay safe and have fun :) !

Thanks!

Not even close! A foot slip can happen to anyone🫠

Think it was meant to be tongue in cheek/ a bit of whimsical exaggeration

Yeahhh no one’s gonna read this 😂

Didn’t read, but you’re wrong. It was most definitely graded correctly at the time, but grades can change as the climb changes…ie polished or broken holds.

@@jlehm If you didn't read, do not comment. Jeez, people are stupid as fuck.

Referencing gym boulders just... gives you zero validity...

Also, since when were V grades used to refer to problems in Fontainebleau? It's 6A+.

​@@Nick12Bradley its for us goobers that dont know anything but V0-V17 :^]