We need to have weekly or monthly "guitar tech tips with Ben" segment. These tips are so helpful specially to everyone that has no chance of going to a tech or just doesnt have the funds to send their guitar o a guitar tech
I'm a Strat owner, and often I see Strats with 'over-torqued' pickguard screws, to the point that the screwheads are dimpling the guard, it's not only unsightly, but can lead to cracking the edge of the guard, I NEVER use a powered screw driver on pick guard or Tremolo/vibrato cover screws, I'm just not in that much of a hurry. P.S., I'm commenting on your comment because my computer won't allow me to post my own (it does that every now and then).
... Ben needs his own RU-vid channel, what a great, easy to understand, and knowledgeable guitar tech. I could listen to this dude share tips all day long. His vast knowledge and simple maintenance tips remind me of Dan Erlewine.
There is a tool designed to do exactly what you are doing with that razor blade. We use it in the auto painting industry. It’s a tungsten block and we use them for scraping off runs in the clear coat. They will literally last forever!
Ben explains his views very well and keeps everything extremely simple. I think working on your own guitar, has always looked complicated and dangerous and that keeps most guitar players-including myself- from trying this stuff out for themselves. He definitely makes things look like it’s no big deal. Can you do more videos with his tips and tricks? These two videos are super helpful
An old Carpenter told me about Lighter fluid in 1968. He had a can in his tool carrier and I asked Him why. He explained what a good finished surface cleaner it was. I went home and tried it on the Finger board on my Strat and was sold. I mentioned it to my Dad and he showed me that he also carried a can in his tool box. All the Old-timers Knew about it, even my Mother. Asking Questions and being Curious has served me well over my Lifetime. People have always responded enthusiastically and seemed eager to Share. Love the content! 😎
@@deputyrock3489 Yeah, and it'll come in a 1l bottle, too. It's what they sometimes use as dry-cleaning fluid. Dissolves a bunch of stuff, then evaporates instantly. Of course, it's dangerous as hell, which is why a lot of cleaners go up in flames.
good stuff! that said, two little notes: there's no good reason _not_ to put the titebond on the toothpick when filling the stripped hole before running the screw in; it takes hardly more time or effort and the result will be far stronger and more reliable that tele might have just been what was on the bench at the time of the demo but you _don't_ need to remove the neck to tweak it! the original tele design is that the pickguard slips right off without disturbing the pickup or even needing to loosen the strings, at which point you'll see a nice wide cutout between the neck pickup and the truss rod nut. adjust it with your offset screwdriver and you're good to go! same with the original '50s P bass, those little black bakelite pickguards were really just giant truss rod covers
This guy has way more experience than me with guitars ... but ... I totally disagree about using fader lube. I remember people using that stuff on mixing consoles and basically having to replace all the faders a month or so afterwards due to incessant crackling. It does lubricate the faders but, as it is oily, it also attracts dust and dirt, unlike isopropyl alchohol which totally evaporates. Once in the pot or fader, you can't get the lube out, so the only real remedy is replacement. Obvoiusly it is much cheaper to replace a guitar pot than 48 mixer faders ... which I have seen done due to this issue ... but the principle is the same. All the other advice is brilliant and much of it is new to me. Thanks Ben and Rhett!
Deoxit makes a spray for pots specifically called F5 that has lubricant in with the cleaner. It will not eat away at the carbon tracks in the same way D5 will. Use D5 for electronic connections that don't move and F5 for ones that do.
@cloudconnect I had one amplifier that D5 started dissolving some plastic in some switches. Idk if it was the propellant or some other volatile compound in it. Based on that it could cause a problem with some cp film potentiometers. Tbh, I still use it on everything.
I have a can of Deoxit at home, but I never use it because I can't stand the smell, plus it's hazardous. After a recommendation from a renowned German guitar-builder I switched to Ballistol, a gun oil. It works wonders on scratchy pots and stubborn, rusty screws. It's bio-degradable and totally non-toxic, even if you'd swallowed it.
Been watching vids on these guys for a while and as a GC tech in Alpharetta I did meet Ben once when he came in to our store and he was very polite to me and I knew he worked at RG in Roswell So now I've been catching these recent vids on the loves & hates And have to say I feel very validated because these techniques are the near exact spot on methods that I practice on my own and customers guitars everyday Ben as I've heard and seen is well respected for his skills I haven't ever worked a plek machine as leveling is by me done the old fashioned way Ben can do either Im know! Oh yes btw the "Luthier" string knots I have to deal with drive me nuts too!!!! Hate them!! Great series and very informative! 👍
Nail polish remover works great to remove super glue, Many solvents will remove superglue and other things but obviously don’t use it on an area you glued together only use it in a situation like this were u got some in an area not intended. I have used gasoline many times to remove spray paint and the paint that’s used on roads from the paint on cars but no matter what solvent u use it has to be done with caution they are typically highly flammable, can damage the finish and when I use them them I wash the area after because even if it evaporated there is still some in the pours of the surface which can eat away at the finish. I also use this acid made to clean bare unpainted rims for painted surfaces that are oxidized or stained it makes finishes look like new in situations where u think u need to repaint but u can’t leave it on for too long just a few minutes because it will ruin the finish so it has to be washed off.
Thank you guys. I’ve been doing my own maintenance for 45 years and I learned so many new tricks and tip. I was just getting ready to clean and restring my les paul custom and my Gibson wm45 acoustic. So from an old fart I sincerely appreciate it. John
As a tech/luthier this is 100% accurate! The first one is a bonus for me though. Never thought of that. I always just used some painters tape to hold the strings in place. Thnx👍
Thank you for this video. I look forward to the video that you do with your guitar tech where he demonstrates soldering. A switch, a pot, a cable, a ground etcetera. The common basic DIY repairs. It is very easy to be too hot or too cold for those of us who do not solder. “How not to make your very own cold joint” might be a title for this. Thank you.
Soldering is basically a question of experience. Don't ask me how my first soldering jobs looked. But by now I have put in new pickups and pots in more than one guitar and soldered all the cables for my pedal board. 200ft of cable and the jacks are so much cheaper than individual cables.
1. Apply Acid Flux (unless using flux-core solder) 2. Heat the electrical post 3. Dab a drop of solder on the item you want to attach the wire to 4. Trim wire insulation back 1/4" 5. Touch bare wire to cold solder 6. Apply heat to the wire until the solder melts. 7. Hold the wire in place for 10 seconds (until it solidifies) 8. Wipe excess Flux off the joint.
I use the zippo gas to clean the fretboard sometimes, and the bridge and the strings every time I play and strings can last months without any oxide, but they still sound less bright with time, and btw its more noticeable on the E A D strings, and I have less broken string on the bridge due to oxidization because my sweat is just radioactive man, so its a very nice thing to have to clean and preserve form oxide all the metal parts. Other cleaners are probably dangerous for guitar and for your health, and zippo gas is cheap too.
I see other's talking lighter fluid too. Years ago (like in the '80s) I asked an old guitar tec what his string-changing & board cleaning procedure is (was, now.) You may want to ask Ben his take on this. He told me 1st thing (on non-lacquered fretboards) after string removal was hit the board with lighter fluid followed by quick 0000 rubdown. Told me the fluid dried the wood just enough to clean around the frets really well. Clean (he used Formby's green furniture cleaner,) fretboard conditioner to re-swell, string n go. Been doin' it near 40 yrs here.
I feel like this series is like if Tested and Rhett's channels collided. Absolutely love this. Thank you Rhett. I'm sure it's way too much of a learning curve but would love if Ben had his own channel.
I do a lot of DIY PC and auto work, and just recently started learning guitar. Been quite pleased to learn that I basically already have everything I need to fix and maintain my instrument. Bought a used floor model, and in cleaning and polishing it, all I could think of while doing that, was how much it reminded me of detailing my car. 😅
Naptha. Great Stuff. I removed ball point ink from a lovely Martin D-28 with some Naptha. It did not disappear right away, but after several weeks, I suddenly realized it was gone, and all I used was Naptha as recommended by the Martin Guitar Factory rep. Saved my lovely guitar. Cleans off on its own and with a damp rag. JT
I'm more of a studio tech, but I agree that power tools are perfectly fine to use on guitar, provided you know how to use the clutch. A good way to figure out which setting to use is to start with the lightest possible setting and only ratchet it up a notch if the clutch slips before the fastener is driven to the correct depth. After awhile you'll get to know how tightly your drill cinches things at each setting and you can move a whole lot faster.
I agree with everything that was discussed and I’m sure there were a lot of takeaways for many. The only no no that was done is the use of power tools; one slip and you’re screwed. Plus if the clutch is improperly set you will strip the screw, damage the head and maybe even break it off!
agreed. You need to be a jedi power tool person, be one with the tool, to do what he does. If you think you are, you probably aren't. Get a very complete set of hand tools. Nothing fancy, you can get almost everything at Harbor Freight or down in your grandfather's basement workshop.
I don't have an issue with power tools, they're using the wrong kinds. A DeWalt cordless drill motor that you build a deck with is not the right tool for luthier work. I have a Bosch power screwdriver that works wonders. It's designed for highly detailed work and have electronic chips that control the torque and speed. You cannot make it strip a screw hardly. It's not just a clutch. It senses when the screws are nearing full depth and adjust the power so it doesn't strip. But they're a little expensive. And using a regular screwdriver on the 4 neck bolts when you have to remove the neck several times would drive you nuts. Your wrist would be sore as hell.
If using a power tool on a guitar, it's a good idea to have one with either an adjustable clutch or adjustable speed. That way you can lessen the risk of over-torquing any bolts or screws, as well as decreasing the likelihood of cross-threading or having the screw go in at a weird angle.
As a frequent power tool user. They’re great for taking out. And also good for cinching screws close to depth. But in situations like this. Final torque with a hand screwdriver is my preferred method. (Also. Those clutches have different levels of torque depending on how fast you’re going in my experience. Inertia in the chuck and what not)
On the ultra-rare occasion that I may wish to turn the truss rod nut on my '52 Tele, I do not take the neck off, or even loosen a single neck bolt. I take the pickguard off which adequately exposes the truss rod nut so that I might slip the end of a screwdriver into its slot and do the job. Upon reading this back, it t strikes me that this operation has a somewhat sensual flavour. Well, so be it. I do love guitars.
I have known a handful of world class luthiers and guitar techs, I get the sense that this guy, Ben(?), is easily in their league. He uses a drill like a skilled adult, that’s a good start.
Great tips and explanation of the spotrepair, got some guitars to try that out on. I'd like to add that Instead of independent tools you could get a multitool from Ibanez, high quality tools, small size and adequate for on the road repairs and in addition a string cutter/winder from d' addario for exapmle.
The adjustable clutch on those Dewalt drills is a big help in preventing overtightening. The ring with the numbers on it lets you adjust how much torque is applied before the clutch “breaks” (ie the bit stops turning and the drill makes the distinctive clicking sound). With a little practice you can tighten screws just as much as needed.
On super rare occations you bumb into a video that actually saves you money, this happened just now😮 I had my strap button srew loose and I was about to bring the guitar to repair shop, now it is fixed! Thank you
Manufacturing luthier with fifty years experience would say. If it is possible to remove the truss rod nut then do so and apply a little grease within the thread to reduce the friction and allow better judgement of the tension on the rod.
You can get these tips for thin super glue, it's like a long thin plastic string with a hole in it and a cap that fits over the bottle. It'll only let out a drop of it, very easy to dose, used in miniature work. And the best part is the opening is so tiny and sealed by the liquid glue that it never dries out. So you just leave it. If it has been sitting for months the tip might harden, then you snip a couple of mm off and they usually cost 5 bucks for 100, so that lasts a lifetime. You never waste glue, never make a mess and you can dose it easily and you never forget the cap, you can throw that in the trash. Not sure what they're called but just google superglue dispenser tips and you'll find them. I discovered them from model boats. Used to regularly spill my superglue and make a big mess or run out because I used too much and had to remove excess constantly.
Hot tip for the DeOxit spray: It works on tube sockets too! I had some weird sounds happening with my Jubilee and the guy who built it for me said to take the amp out of the head shell, pull the tubes and squirt a little de oxit into the socket holes and use a preamp and power tube to sort of work the stuff in/out of the tube pin holes and that actually fixed it.
I worked at a signage shop and we'd be cutting, gluing, and engraving acrylic all day. They cleaned EVERYTHING with naphtha and I couldn't believe how well it worked. Been a convert ever since.
On the neck adjustment with vintage neck but access, I neatly dremel a slot between the neck pickup rout and neck pocket that allows access to the truss rod screw without removing the neck. Just take the pickguard off and there you are. So handy and invisible with the guard back in place. One exception would be if the guitar was a valuable vintage guitar. Nice video!
I've been using the lighter fluid since forever! Best fretboard cleaner ever, but don't use it on maple boards, on some ones it actually stained the board!!! Never had a problem with rosewood or ebony. Also the tootpicks, been doing that since I had my first guitar :D
Deep well socket set (metric & SAE) with finger rachet drives are indispensable. And cheap at the local tool shop near the harbor. I use them all the time on pots, jacks, even as screw drivers with the right adapter and bit.
Ben needs his own RU-vid channel Could film simple repairs, high end repairs, tips and tricks, and famous guitars he's worked on over the years with stories behind them.
Love listening to Ben give his tips. Sometimes though he assumes we know how to do things that we don't know how like in my case he assumed I would know how set set my intonation. I assure you I don't, but I've seen some things to help out.
Your recent emphasis on instrument care has been really excellent. Many of us musicians (myself included) ought to spend less time ogling new gear and giving TLC to the gear we already have.
Thank you Rhett and Ben!! The capo trick will save me a lot of time, and didn't know the glue + string-loop + razor blade + scotch trick = that's a blast!! I use: - A very similar solder iron from Weller but with adjustable temperature wich I found very usefull, bought on the used market that is bulletproof and very efficient. - "Essence F" (in France) that is equivalent to his zippo liquid I guess. - Electric contact cleaner bomb, no matter the brand but WD40 make a good one. The equivalent of the Deoxit I guess. Protip: for rosewood or any raw-wood fingerboard I clean it with alcool then nourish it with japaneese camelia oil.
Rock solid recommendations!!! Naphtha is a necessity for any DIY guitar player. In 2020 I bought a 79 LP Standard complete with 40+ years of gunky grime on the body and board. Naphtha stripped it all away with ease.
Hand-thread the neck screws before tightening. Otherwise you'll chew up the threads in the neck. DeoxIT is awesome. MG Chemicals NU-TROL Control Cleaner is even better! Cut your toothpicks so that they recess into the hole slightly. Otherwise, sometimes the expanding toothpick will crack the finish. Round the edges of your razor blade using some sandpaper. That way you don't have to worry about them scratching the finish. There are different grades of naphtha. Zippo lighter fluid is a higher quality, in contrast to VM&P hardware store naphtha. Motsenbocker's Lift Off is very useful too.
A most excellent video, and really useful for everybody from beginners to pro. There was even something for Me : the capo trick, which seems extremely useful !
The best trick which did wonders in my guitars was shielding my instruments with aluminum foil. You simply place adhesive aluminum foil in all the spaces such as pick-ups and potentiometer chambers. Do both, because shielding only potentiometers chamber is not enough. It takes care of 10-20% of the noise. 80% comes from unshielded pick-ups (meaning surface underneath and on sides). At first I used copper adhesive tape, but aluminum creates better shield. This "trick" reduced 99 % of hum and noise from my guitar setup. Before doing that I was blaming my amps for all these sounds. I though for years that this how things are and there is no way to get rid of it. I was wrong. The real source of hum and hiss were my guitars (good quality). You need to be careful with potentiometer chamber. Aluminum tape can contribute to shortcuts in your circuit. So after applying aluminum tape I also used layer of insulation tape. The best spent 10 bucks in my life :-)
Sometimes when changing over to locking strap buttons the supplied screws are smaller in diameter. Using a wooden match stick and tite bond glue fills the original hole nicely. In most cases using a tiny drill bit to create a starter hole makes for an easy install. Great video
Brilliant. Interview more techs! Then do the same with players. Approaches to song writing or riff writing. Song writing hacks. Blah blah. All that stuff. This could be a great on going series.
Here’s a variation on the toothpick method for repairing stripped out screw holes: instead of gluing in the toothpick and redrilling the hole, I mix some sawdust with wood glue and push it into the hole. While it’s still wet, I screw in the screw at the exact angle and depth I want it and the sawdust and glue forms around the screw. The result is a perfectly angled screw hole without the use of a drill and the challenge of drilling straight into the wood.
I like using Tibet Almond Stick Scratch Remover on my guitars from cleaning strings to polishing the metal parts. I saw the tip on reddit over 5 years ago. Still have the same stick, it will probably be passed down generations.
When re-fitting a neck always go 'backwards' with the neck screws first until you feel them find the existing thread wherever it is. If you go straight in you can end up cutting a new thread. Very bad 🙂
I came across the lighter fluid trick some years ago when I bought a second hand guitar with stickers on it. The adhesive was a nightmare to get off. I researched and everyone on the internet was recommending some commercial product that's not sold here. Did a little bit of more digging and learned that it was essentially a mixture of petroleum based lubricant (think Vaseline) and lighter fluid. I figured lighter fluid must be the ingredient that dissolves the adhesive. Tried it and it made the job 100x easier. Been using it ever since on fretboards and everything.
Wood glue has a shelf life. I believe it’s a year for titebond, I think I’ve gotten close to 2 years out of it though before it started to separate in the bottle
I am a restorer...I do many things except music instruments-- and I know better that is why I go to you guys because you are trained slightly different from me.... I've got a lot of study hours in but it looks like I need to get some hours in from you guys...P.S. Rhett thanks you do a good job with these videos
Rhett, I’ve been watching your stuff for a while now but haven’t gotten around to subscribing until after this vid. I have really gotten into working on my guitars lately and this video for sure helped a lot! So today I become a sub! Thanks for all the awesome content man
Love the video! On a lot of those custom shop teles they actually have a little pocket that is under the pickguard that you can use a stewmac truss rod tool with and you can leave the neck on and just take the pick guard off. That’s my little cheat
The Stewmac Telecaster truss rod tool is cheap and saves you so much time. And you get to monitor the relief and dial it in perfectly with your strings still tuned to pitch. Just screw of your pickguard and adjust the truss rod* - and there you go. No need to take your neck off every time and potentially wear those neck heel screw holes out. *some tele bodies don’t have a notch at the heel and will require you to take the neck off.
