Pro Mechanic’s Most Loved & Hated Products + Winter Bike Hacks - The Wild Ones Podcast Ep. 31 

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The reason bikes with guards are in worse condition is that they are actually being ridden in all weathers.

Do not kill off mechanical. I personally don’t want electronic shifting + I’ve never had a problem using my shifters during winter months!! 🚴‍♀️

Alloy bike, Claris 8 speed, full mudguards, perfect for winter and as it's heavier I feel benefit when I'm back on my summer bike.

To rapid dry your bike use a battery operated leaf blower. Works a treat at removing excess water out your bike, especially your chain.

Aluminium is rather excellent material for many reasons. The case for its low fatigue life expectancy is dependent on many factors. For instance, an airplane will load up its structural frame during take off and landing (mostly landing). If it is flown 4 times a day, that would be eight cycles a day which translates to 2980 cycles a year. In addition, there are stresses being applied during flight but it's mostly concentrated at around the wing attachment structure, which is localized and that's where the flight hours comes in to figure out the service life of the plane (for small ones around 20,000). The major difference between airplanes and bicycles make of Aluminium alloys is that bikes are inherently loaded more often than airplanes. Every pothole, crack on the road, bunny hop counts as a load cycle. In addition, if you're truly powerful rider that does sprint out of saddle up every single hill and town line, while living in a rather pothole-ridden streets then you're also adding more "flight hours" on your frame. The notion that a frame can only last for five years or so and so destroys a frame every couple years is rather anecdotal and not necessarily true. Afterall, many track bikes are still being made out of Aluminium and have lived a harsh life of track cycling crashes and generally more powerful riders. So in my opinion, which is not truly mine as I have read on the matter, studied engineering, have done a basic research on the subject matter, and have my own anecdotal experience; as is the case with any other material, the reason for Aluminium alloy frames to get "soft" or crack due to fatigue is either poor quality of manufacturing to begin with or poor maintenance. Even looking up the fatigue curves of Titanium alloys, you would come across the same issue that Aluminium alloys have, which is the fact that both materials have Fatigue limit as opposed to Steel which has an endurance limit. Granted Titanium has higher load cycles before reaching its fatigue limit; alas, Titanium alloys are not immune to fatigue cracks. In conclusion, there is nothing wrong with well manufactured and well designed Aluminium bike frame, as long as it's well maintained. On the maintenance front, if there is bare metal showing due to rubbing of cables, shoes, ... then it's prudent to clean and re-coat it to avoid exposing the bare metal to the atmosphere where oxidation would increase crack propagation (even micro level cracks that are not perceptible to naked eye).

“England has extreme winters” that was cute 😂🇨🇦🥶

Mudguards protect you and the bike. This anti mudguard talk is bs. Use them. They are amazing.

Full mudguards all the way. I remove the wheels when I clean my bike..!!

I got the SKS Raceblades for my commuting roadbike (28mm tyres, rimbrakes) and it was by far the best purchase I did last year. I even stopped needing to use pants for the rain, and when it gets warmer I can take them out in a matter of seconds. I can totally recommend them

Wishing Francis and his family all the best. As for the pod cast, I am loving it. Nick needs to be a regular and I would love to see Bike fit James on the pod cast as well. One question for Nick, I'm in Canada and as you know it gets super cold, its -29C today with -44c wind chill today, will tubeless sealant work?

Nic seems like such a cool, laid back guy. I could listen to him talk about bikes for hours.

Loving your content. No BS, organic varied personalities of your presenters, and just good. Keep it up

Great podcast guys! Love Nick being on the show he talks the truth and is very entertaining! 😂

Thanks for good content, I often listen to your pod while riding. It would be cool, as a Finn who rides in the winter even at 20 degrees below zero, to have an episode (perhaps with a guest with experience riding in similar conditions) about proper winter cycling :)

My ideal year-round bike is a steel gravel frame w/ Microshift Sword 10-speed mechanical, Growtac Equal calipers, Redshift stem, 700c wheels & ~45mm tires [I live in the SF Bay Area]

Properly made mudguards have edges rolled in to drain water and stop it from dripping back on the bike.

I ride my Cube Nuroad (gravel) with Shimano Claris 8-speed and mechanical discs. The stuff just works and is durable. When Spring arrives I’ll grab my Tarmac SL6 💨

Nic is so wrong about fenders/mudguards wow

1x is one my favourite discovers for winter and commuter bikes. so much less hassle to maintain and cheaper. specially in Ireland where up big mountains avoided for winter for most.

I'm sorry but I disagree with the comments regarding the mudguards. Yes a bike will still get dirty but I don't..... Yes my components still need a wash..... But I don't..... I just completed a 91 mile ride in UK winter and it chucked it down for last 30 miles..... Even then I was so appreciative of my mudguards as I was cycling through muddy roadside rivers mile after mile

Nick is a fantastic fill in!!!❤

Great show. Talking about bike mugging. Recalled an incident in 1994 in Manchester. A course mate riding through a rough area to the uni , someone stood in front of him, grabbed the handlebars and shoved him off the bike and stole it. Tbh, for as long as I've been riding in Malaysia, and nowadays with these very expensive bikes, we've never heard any single incident of this yet. Like you said, it's probably a UK thing.

Hi everyone. My bike's steel, cromoly, bought in '97. I ridden it tens of thousands of miles since then in rain/snow/sun. She has full guards (from about '98) and she gets a birthday (wash) every year or so. The odd chip in the paint but not noticeably rusty. Basically, neglect is nothing like as bad as you think. Better to ride and neglect a bit than cossette and stay indoors. Shes had marathon plus this last 15 years or so with never a puncture and my teeth are still give a steak a hard time. As reguards cable (mechanical) shifting, I recon quite a few World Tour riders would disagree with you. By world tour I don't mean pro-peleton, I mean riders who tour the world. Try fixing your fancy electronics and hydraulics way out in the wilds with no local bike shop to go to. I very much respect your views but there is a big world full of views out here. Alloy bike frames are not repaired because the alloys they are made of are ruined by welding. Re heat-treating requires a very solid jig and a labourious heating cooling heating and so on. Ok for a few hundred at a time but prohibitive for one alone. Well fielded Emily on the batteries and the environment. Charging would be ok on your own solar. The real issues are the recycling and more important the awful conditions the miners (eg in DR of Congo) are subjected to to obtain the minerals to make them.

I only got in to cycling May of 2023. I spend a fair amount of time traveling in my motorhome , when I am not traveling I live in orkney. I wanted "a do all" bike and within my budget i eventual purchased the scott speedster gravel. It gets hammered by the weather and strapped on to the back of the van, its been brilliant. I bought a pair of the lower end DT Swiss for road use and have not been disappointed so far. As I have now become MAMIL Personified I think i will look at an equally robust summer use pure road bike. Thanks for the great work you guys do, you have kept me motivated to continue cycling and out of the bottom of a bottle!

+1 for the Teravail Ramparts, I run them 38c for commuting in Canadian winter (albeit a Toronto winter, which is more welcoming), and I feel super confident on them.

Rohloff with gates carbon belt is the ultimate winter drive train set-up. I have a steel tout terrain with, 60mm wide tires on 650b wheels with mud guards...I wash it once a year! PERFECT 👌

Mechanical shifters for flat bars are great. Decent ones work for years without issue. I loved early the 11 speed Shimano road shifters.

I totally agree with you on the 1-by! I've had my kar for a year now, and I'm in love with it. Nice, simple, crisp and robust shifting (only once you've set it up and indexed correctly to the millimeter! 😅😅😅

I've just got a Planet X Mulo (frame on sale for £99 currently) as I can't be bothered maintaining gears or cleaning my bike after every ride. Threw a load of old parts on I already had. Perfect winter bike IMO.

Love Nic on the podcast could listen to him for hours perhaps its because my family resides in Pretoria and my love of bikes brilliant content as usual Jimmy.

“Moped thefts are a uniquely British problem” *Brazil has entered the chat*

I ride 1x Di2 with the shifters setup as SRAM. Does make shifting with Winter gloves on a lot easier.

Pedal systems. Still love my SPD-R pedals and cleats. Never had one break and easy use. Great racing corner clearance.

Love the episode, and Nic is amazing on the show. Im not sponsored or anything by the company but there are bells for aero handelbars from close the gap. One of the best upgrades i ever got for my bike.

Like the mics, clear and loud. Like her voice and the rundown of program. Well researched fair comments. Expect to see this channel flourish much longer. Keep up the good work. Thumbs up.

Winter bike for us mere mortals consist of a 10-15 year old Carbon framed , rim brake , 10speend Shimano/ Campy with an old set of Fulcrums . You get a little frustrated because you find it’s only a tiny bit slower than your best bike that cost £5k.

Producer Emily... if you happen to like Specialized saddles, the women's versions have a "cutout" which is sealed at the bottom. Basically any of the Mimic saddles.

The vast (VAST) majority of bikes in the world are mechanical shifting and will be so forever. 100s of millions of city bikes, train station bikes, bangers on the farm, bikes for old folks, bikes for young folks will forever be mechanical. There is no universe that I can park a SRAM electronic shifting bike at a train station for a week and expect it to be there when I return.

Bought an On One pick'n'flick titanium around 10 years ago its been faultless all year round.....love it

I live in Southern California so winter isn’t a huge issue but I still ride a titanium gravel bike with 35mm tires year round. If I lived in a place with real winter weather I might go with knobby tires in winter. I assemble my bikes with Morgan Blue aqua proof paste on anything that’s threaded or press fit. This stuff is impervious to anything weather can throw at it including salt! I have GRX one by mechanical. With cold hands there’s no issue with shifting. Panaracer gravel kings are tough as nails and come in an all slick tread version. I like the Gavel King SS with a semi slick center and knobby shoulders. These would be ideal winter tires. Traction is great.

I've got a Redline flat bar cx bike that I built up with a canti brakes, force xplr axs, and an eccentric bb. I can swap it from 12spd to single speed in 20ish minutes and it's awesome. It's the bike I use the most for commuting, racing not exactly legal cx races, and in general having fun on the hidden trails in San Francisco. Easily one of my favorite bikes I've ever owned!

Another great episode. Love this.

Couple of things on the ideal winter bike: 6-11 speed chains have the same INTERNAL width... you can use an 11 speed chain on a six speed bike.... I for instance upgraded a walmart bike with 1x8 to 1x11 and am running the original cranks. When chains got thinner it was thickness of the metal used on the plates, not the gaps between them. The sprockets didn't get thinner they just got closer together. As to running older stuff on a modern bike: most wheels are still compatible with HG. That means any 6-11 speed setup will still work. You can even run 12 speed on HG. I have a 2009 Stumpjumper FSR which is running Sram GX Eagle AXS on the original 26 inch wheels. It is using an NX 11-50 cassette, which was the cheapest eagle casette when I got it, but now you can get it in SX. If you are willing to build a mullet bike... 1x eagle components with blips paired to TRP hydraulic brakes... Or you can just go full gravel components. Or if you want to run hydrualic brakes with 6 speed brifters, you can use something like the giant conduct system, which uses very very short cables to actuate the hydraulic master cylinder. Giant came up with this (I think it was actually TRP) to allow hydraulic brakes with Tiagra, before native hydraulic tiagra was available. I upgraded my older Defy to Tiagra hydraulic, and did not really notice a difference in feel or power, but there was a big difference in weight. If you want to pay for shipping and give me a shout out, I would be quite happy to donate the system for testing. Finally I hear tell that there is a new Chinese electronic system that lets you define the number of sprockets, and then lets you individually index each gear... so there is that. The standards for derailleur mounting are compatible from 2024 back (other than Sram Transmission). There are only really 2 disc brake mount standards. Modern bikes will work fine with ancient components, and vice versa

Great video as always!

I second the winter/training bike in general. Get a decent ally frame, cheapest groupset possible that's compatible with your other wheels, budget ally rim wheels, then thiccc tires, ideally gators. In Britain you build your training bike for battle, salty roads, dirt chipping paint, massive hard-edge potholes often covered by puddles, rough tarmac and rolling hills. You have to assume you're going to take some damage, so make those components as affordable to replace or repair as possible.

I think defo the definition of a winter bike varies on region. My heavy winter bike is one I care less about and has winter tyres, but most importantly can handle the crazy winter wind here in Ireland 🇮🇪. I can't picture riding a lightweight carbon frame during a 40 kph crosswind

Loving this format, please keep it going. Specialized may not be the prettiest bikes around but they warranty their frames for life. So if you get an alloy one and it cracks, they'll replace it for free. This happened to me with an '04 (first year) Roubaix, which had an aluminum frame and carbon seat/chain stays and fork. Had to wait about 6 months though. But, they replaced it with a contemporary 2010 all-carbon one, which was an upgrade in my opinion.

Frame bags are the key (about keeping tools on your winter bike). A waterproof frame bag will keep everything dry, keep your frame pump in mint condition and will also have space to carry snacks.

I set up my 2-by Di2 GRX in SRAM Style in Winter plus the full syncro mode for the front derailleur. So I do use normally only the bigger Buttons to shift through the rear mech easily and the front mech shifts at an specific point up- or downwards. Easy with thicker gloves and so fast and on point.

Really love this episode ❤

so what actually is the benefit of electric shifting? all I hear is "once you try it you'll never go back" but never heard any plausible, objective arguments for it. personally I'm already stressed out by managing charging schedules of lights, watch, phone, earbuds, cameras, etc. I work in tech and know how unreliable BLE actually is, do I really want to bother with potentially buggy software and hardware problems while not at work? I ride mechanical 105 and entry level GRX and never had any issues with it. Had to adjust RD once in like 5 years since I had it and it's not rocket science IMAO. also loooove that chunky mechanical feeling of the shifters and the direct feedback when thrashing through gears. reminds me of the debate about touch vs tactile buttons in cars

Best winter tire I used was Continental Winter Contacts. Good to -15F and functions well in snow.

Another great video guys and gal !

Bought a carbon record from wiggle....no harbo though! Had the pleasure of a super record cassette and chain. 12spd rim brake mechanical to go on a 953 frame. Looks and rides great.

Really like Nick could listen to him for ages .

titanium gravel bike with electronic groupset, for winter, lol, lmao.

Check the INSIDE of an aluminium frame. Endoscopes are silly cheap today, simply connect them to your laptop. Remove BB and seatpost and you can easily check the whole frame. Maybe something you don´t need to do every year, depending of how you use the bike. Or buy an anodized frame and check with the maker/seller if it´s also anodized inside which certainly will slow down inside corrosion Rgr

Carbon Giant cross bike is my winter bike. Its perfect with extended ass saver. 10 speed mechanical works perfect.

I converted a basic cheap steel Argos hybrid bike to a basic cheap gravel bike for winter..... Heavier slower less need to spend excessive time cleaning it Makes my road bike feel nicer in spring and summer.....

Love how you guys (and gal) just get into it; no faffing about.

I bought a Spa cycles Elan Mk2 titanium, would probably take 40mm tyres, looks like an audax bike but is an all-round really, ticks all of Jimmy's boxes here, rides like you're on a sheet of glass. Got 4 season goodyear vector 700 - 32 tyres and first try on them I'm impressed up to now

Nic is totally right on dropper posts being underrated on gravel (and even road, but that's tougher). Not necessary but fantastic if you ride in areas with hills

8 speed shimano rules in off road, I race cross on it, no chain blocking with mud. I race tt on 8 speeding on the road tt bike, just works.

Close the Gap (formerly hidemybell) makes a gps mount with bell in them for every road bar arrangement incl cervelo (jumbo sponsor as well). -U10

Great episode lads & lady.

I'm with Nic, .... I have a Curve Titanium Belgie Spirit all road bike and just love it. (Australia)

I know this is mostly a road/gravel discussion, but I just love 2-by on my hardtail MTB - even with a 12-speed cassette in the back (10-45 though, not 10-5x). With 26T and 36T chain rings, this gives me incredible range - if I only had, say, a 30T chainring, I would constantly spin out on fast descends. If I went with a 32T or even larger chain ring, I wouldn't have an easy enough "bail out" gear on some of the steepest climbs (yes, maybe I just need more training). And about complexity resp. the problem of explaining 2-by to people new to biking: I am just using it as two modes: big chain ring for flats and downhill (a.k.a. "road" mode), small chain ring when going uphill (a.k.a. "goat mode"). If you explain it like this, even the most thick customer should get it.

Jimmy would fit right in at home with full mid guards here in Portland Oregon. We can tell when people are not from the area when their winter bike does not have guards. Some groups won’t even let you ride without them. We all want to be dry, but full fender guards on

Great content!

Michelin Pro 2 Race is the best tyre I’ve ever used, so comfortable, so fast, very decent grip in all weather, decent puncture resistance. I don’t know why Pro 3 Race was not as good. Actually, I prefer Conti GP4000 to GP5000 too. I really wish these brands would only bring out new models that are definitely better, else just continue making the same good stuff!

I'm not sure i agree with Nick that mudguards direct spray back onto the components. They do direct it back to the tyre, and the inside of the guards can get clogged up with dirt. They can also be suboptimal with rim brakes. But my components - RD, FD, chain, cassette are all much cleaner when using mudguards. Not to mention the rest of the bike and the rider and the rider's clothes. It does make cleaning and maintenance a pain though I agree.

These questions are so stupid but I love listening to this. Also, I will NEVER give up my mechanical.

A large front mud flap will work wonders at keeping the gritty road spray from washing all the lube off your chain in the first 10 minutes of your ride. I hate the weight/aero penalty with mudguards, but I have to give credit for the fact that they do their job very well indeed.

Winter bike -> an old steel touring frame will easily fit 32mm tires, build it singel speed/fixed gear. to have less parts, with less to go wrong.

Qbicle Tangent Fender is the best mudguard ,keeps you dry is light weight easy to remove., and does not detract from the bikes appearance if left on.

Totally with you on the mudguards Jimmy. “PDW full metal fender” expensive but very adaptable and silent. Come with “buddy flaps”

Good winter tires might be the Challenge Strada Bianca or something else from this brand or the continental contact speed. Only when it comes to gravel of course or light snow. Or get some thin Smart Sam from Schwalbe to be completely safe

Great show! Thank you for reminding everyone that 8 speed means end of your trouble forever. However I'm sorry I have to correct you, in the interest of everyone: the water actually doesn't come from the sky when riding a bike, and there is just no physical way mudguards are spraying your components. Using actual mudguards with a curl and extending below the wheel axle of course.It isn't possible for the water drop to fight both the curl retaining it and gravity pulling it towards the end of the mudguards. All the spraying on components comes from the front wheel when it doesn't have a flap. If you want to spray your rear mech using a mudguard, you can indeed achieve it using an ass-saver, which doesn't have curls retaining the drops and is high enough for the drop to catch gravity again, and fall right on you cassette and mech.

I love when you guys bring Nic. He is honest, direct and highly opinionated. I may agree or disagree with what he says but he always have a clear point of view with valid arguments. PS: An idea for under/over or love/kill: 3D printed saddles, internal cable routing, integrated cockpits (stem+handlebar).

In my active years in road cycling i rode a Singlespeed Cyclocross as a winter bike. I live in northern Germany, so nasty weather over here. They often use sand and salt mix against ice on the roads which kills your drivetrain. So Singlespeed is cheaper to maintain. Often a lot of fun, but sometimes i regret it with heavy winds and stuff. But you got a workout with lesser kilometres and build up a lot of strength. When season came i was in much better shape than my buddies who rode indoor or went to Mallorca once a winter for training camps. Even after i sold all my fancy bikes i kept my OnOne pompino singlecross because it grew on me that much. I went to hell and back on that bike.

53:07 I have ‘aero bars’ if profile design wing 10a base bar count as aero, I have a bell on it, need to find the right mounting system You can find bells which go on the stem and replace a 10mm spacer

Nick is the common sense Czar - period. When I come to England this summer I would love to buy a bike from him. Indestructible, get around the world machine. 8Speed Claris on a frame that clears 35c tires and take it on Pan Celtic Ultra.

i enjoyed that thank you :)

Cheap’ish Gravel bike with 1x mechanical, mudguards, hydraulic disc brakes & 700x35-45 studded tyres. That's my setup for winter cycling in Norway. Usually between -5 and -20'ish degrees between November and March; no need for fancy stuff in those conditions.

Nick is awesome same as James for bike fits in fact I love you all on the cade media 😁

I have chunky fingers and have never had an issue with Di2 shift buttons, even in winter with thick gloves. Also, I never get this complaint about the Shimano battery. It lasts for ages and you get a low battery warning on your head unit at 20%.

Campagnolo 10, 11s mechanical with external cable routing. Rim Brake. I do have Chorus 12s mechanical disc on Ti custom. It just works .... there is no need to pay extra $$ & complicate a simple function of stopping & shifting gears.

Switching mechs with etap is exactly what I do my mtb has gx and cx has a 36t force mech. For racing I keep force but when I want to go for a technical gravel ride I borrow my gx mech, takes less than 10 mins to swap and reconfig the shifting in the app! Intercompatibility and lack of planned obsolescence ie incompatibility between old and new di2 has to be SRAMs main strength.

I have a 2010 Cervelo S1. So that is a aluminium frame. And i have ridden it 150-200 km a week on average until the summer 2022. And that is still completely fine. I worked in a bikeshop when I bought it. And have maintained it very well. So alloy frames can easily last 15-20 years if you take care of them.

Man, Nic is awesome

Lol, you are describing the bike I am building now 😂. Waltly custom-geometry titanium gravel frame with quite big clearance (up to 50), SRAM AXS (rival on the front, GX AXS on the rear). Carbon wheels (elitewheels, 700C, 22 internal). Pirelli Cinturatto S/M 45mm tires.

On the topic of Bells: Almost everyone who's ever been 'in my way' on a cycle path or whatever ahs responded quickly and happily to a bell. people are conditioned to it, they hear a bell when they're walking and they expect it to mean a bike is behind them and wants to pass. It's also just a nice sound - even a polite and well mannered "Excuse me" doesn't come close to the cheerful ping of bell. I bought a Knog ring style bell for my bike and most people don't even realise it's there, hidden away under my clip-on tri-bars as it is, but it works well enough, is plenty loud, and is the ideal tool for those situations. Nobody rides at night without lights if they can help it, so why ride in the day without a bell? My ideal winter bike: Titanium I agree is the best material (provided you can afford it). No fatigue issues, no corrosion issues, and as I'm more likely to have a crash in the winter I'd rather ride something I'm not too worried about if it has a dent or two, so definitely not carbon! Perhaps controversially, as aggressive a geometry as my summer bike. For all the good training on a heavy bike and then moving to the nippy carbon show-off-mobile does for your psyche, it really takes the fun out of it when your back's in agony after 30 minutes because all winter you've been in a nice relaxed position, and now you're trying to flex like 19 year-old freaks of nature in the pro peloton. Carbon wheels about 30-35mm depth. Would get these in titanium too if they were available. 40mm tyres, something with mild tread like Shwalbe G-one allround. Just enough tread to mean I can tackle a bit of gravel here and there. Probably mechanical 105 or similar. Never had an issue shifting to be honest. If I need to wear such gloves that i can't shift, it's too cold and I'm not riding anyway. What would be ideal is a 1x mullet. I prefer to do more climbing and 'resistance' training in the winter since it's a double whammy of hard sustained effort and slow speed/less windchill to help keep warm. Not mentioned in the video, but I'd opt for MTB clipless too. Road shoes are nice in the summer but cold in winter and dangerous enough to clip-clop around on on totally dry, flat surfaces let alone muddy, slushy, icy roads.

We’d have to do some math, but I’m gonna push back on cable having less energy impact than the battery. When you use a cable, you’re using up the tensile strength of a piece of steel that then gets tossed. When you use the battery, you’re using up the energy from the grid, and a little bit of your ability to store it. I think that consuming 1Wh + battery degradation fueled by fire will consume less energy than the equivalent of how much goes into creating a cable divided by how much you can pull.

@Bike Mechanic Nick, Crane Bell has one that attaches to the drop bar... so for those with aero bars that's an option.

Another great show, listening from the Great White North of Western Canada today (-43 Celcius windshill) YUCK Hope Frances is doing ok.

Have a Ti winter road frame with 35mm tyre clearance. Have no need for gravel frame but can see the point. Have old 11 speed ultegra disc thats seen many winters. Carbon wheels in summer and some old fulcrums with many changed spokes and nipples run gp4000 on the and have for about 4 years but low milage on the road at about 600 miles over winter max.

My preparation for 5° is the same as my preparation for -4° too. Brew some coffee and queue up a video. I might put in an hour Zwifting.

Winter bikes . . . Fat tires and studs in Alaska; last year's road bike (or a gravel bike) with full wrap fenders and fender flaps/extentions in Oregon.

Ali CX bike (Kensis CX racelight), 105 speed 11 or 12, with full mudguard and 32mm Cont 4 season on Mavic Kysilum 😁 Get washed every ride not to sure why mud guards don't stop bottom bracket and me dry 🤯