I surfed every day for 35 yrs now I live where the surf is not too good and get I that buzz from creating art, kayak fishing for my dinner, growing my own food and trying to be a good neighbor. I sleep good, like a baby.
You're literally living my dream bro lol. I'm saving every cent to leave the city and move to a small town on the coast surrounded by nature, easy going people and surf. Everyday is a blessing for sure!
He puts it much better than I did. Every human being needs a thing. That thing that makes life more fun. That makes your heart beat. I think 90% of people don't have a thing. And that's why they're angry all the time.
This whole thing thing makes so much sense to me. I had my thing, surfing, swimming, everything with water. Now im back in my hometown, no sea no surf no waves. Back to smoking herb and thinking about what a good time i really had just 6months ago. F Corona and f people that think the world is just theirs
I grew up in a coastal town moved away from the coast at 8 and never learned to surf, though I always wanted to. I did drugs and alcohol for 22 years. And when I got sober, i left the city and moved to a beach community, and the guy that lived above me, his son had a board , and I taught myself to surf at 36 years old. 10 years later, still sober, still living at the beach. Life’s what we make it.
I always really liked Rob, and I have never really chose my favorite surfer yet. Rob, you just became my favorite. So down to earth, and a great role model for anyone, surfer or not.
I spiraled on down, 3 times, in fact, and my addiction took from me everything i enjoyed in life. All my hobbies and passions went away, but now after many years sober and clean, it's all good! Machado is right. There's no high that beats the high of living life on it's terms and doing something valid and real as........ just my authentic self.
Even after all these years, Rob continues to be a source of inspiration for me as a surfer. He's just so incredibly good, and so smooth, but also so genuine, humble and human. I aspire to be like him every time I go out. Thanks Rob, you're the man.
You need to do more of these positive minded, antidrug videos ~ there is a very strong message behind Rob's description of surfing the first waves of the day and upon returning to the hotel. Watching all the hung over party people stumbling out of their rooms. Need I say more.! With a pure & clear mind anything is possible. Especially the dream's of grommets ~
For me my first natural high was bmx , I just found surfing a year ago and it’s saved me from suicidal thoughts and actions( I have had seizures since I was a kid ) sometimes I can’t do anything with my bike or board but they both give me something to look forward to, like a painter without a canvas I’m limited sometimes of imagining just myself shredding. But last time I surfed that imagination combined with a few hours of relentless slams , I rode the wave of my life the most perfect ride and for that moment on I started believing in what I am and who I am... surfing saves 🙏🏻
@@skankwave5245 I seriously doubt the claim 40x as high unless comparing hemp with an extremely potent strain of today, while selective breeding, environment and more certainly increased thc percentage that doesn't make it unnatural...
That feeling when you go downhill snowboarding fast AF, you know if you fell down, you will smash all your bones, the freezing air hits you in the face, you keep going, faster, adrenaline rushes through your blood, the beat drops on that epic song, faster, you carve through the snow, faster, and you survived. That's my Natural High.
This guy came to my middle school class 20 years ago and inspired me to do more. I really appreciate people like this that make the world a better place.
Surfing saved my life. It got me through a divorce, it got me through past pain from my family, it got me through life. You guys know what I’m talking about. The moment your feet hit the water, nothing matters anymore. That moment when you’re connected with the wave, you get to your feet and lock it in, you go numb. It’s pure bliss. I get goosebumps thinking about it. I’ve never done drugs in my 33 years of life on this earth. Surfing is my drug. I work the hours I do so I can surf. I drive the car I do so I easily travel with boards. I choose my home based on how close I am to my favorite spot. Everything in my life revolves around surfing. Without it, I’d be nothing. Thank you Rob. Thank you for this interview. Much love from the OC.
Thank you Rob! I was lucky enough to meet you for a moment only one time at the Surf Expo Orlando many years ago. So humble and kind just validated why you were such and inspiration to me and my surfing. Your unreal talent combined with your soulful style combined with your message in this video is so helpful to so many. With the exception of some scary wave conditions, every time I paddled out there there was an unremovable smile on my face and soul. Grateful: Thirty+ years of uncountable paddle-outs, waves, friends, sunrises and sunsets. Learning now how many of those times were exstasis experiences(ultimate natural high) for me without even realizing it. My life easily could have gone in another direction and down a rabbit hole with the wrong influences. I'm so thankful it didn't. Keep the stoke!
A BIG MAHALO Rob, I’ve been living a sober life a while now. Done my share of stuff and parties. Got remarried to the best woman I never thought I was with until she told to stop smoking the stuff and do the right thing. Got back to surfing, living sober is where it’s at. Mahalo again ROB, great video.
Good to see this Rob , had the pleasure of meeting your Dad and brother played golf with them on couple occasions. Solid men. Tell them John says halo, from Palm Desert. Blessings :)
I really enjoyed this. I don't have anything to do with surfing. I love the message. My high is playing music. I used to use drugs and I used them the reasons you just stated. I don't anymore. This video makes me want to work harder. Thank you Rob
I started paying attention to Machado because he's got this chill flow that in his surfing that feels soulful. Rad to see it's in the rest of his life too.
I've seen him generate more speed than I thought possible on a knee high wave a block from my house. I would have never have paddled out in the slop that he made look fun effortlessly. He seemed like a really down to earth guy as well.
Hans Gunderboom ... know exactly what you mean Hans .. I have been fortunate enough to grow up and surf with a mate Gerry Wedd and he did that ... he would surf the shittiest waves when I would go and do something else but learnt to know how and where the waves would break and when .. total creds to them.. he is and will always be a legend on our surf coasts in South Aust... keep surfing Gerry ...
I remember Rob's performance in the Billabong challenge 1995 at Gnarloo in West OZ which he won (beating Kelly, Johnny Boy and Occy in the final), if there was any doubt about his surfing in serious waves before, there weren't after that! Good messages here Rob!
Macro VIGILANCE I remember Slater and Rob singing horse with no name, na na nana na, na narloo ( that's not easy writing that you know) also remember Robs board getting stolen from camp!! Great guy all round and a real style master
^ this guy quit marijuana a couple years ago, was working out for 2 years then made a mistake to smoke again. True words from Rob and so refreshing to hear his thoughts on surfing and drugs. The best highs are those that you get from life, nature, the beach, sunsets etc. Best things in life are free.
Much respect to Rob Machado for remaining down to earth and never letting fame ruin him. He is the real thing and a great roll model for young people. A great work ethic and a good human being
One of the best surfers ever His style is unmatched so fluent and gracefull perfect timing .Also the boards that he shapes are so good 2. You don't have 2 be a world champion 2 be a great surfer either. on my travels i have seen so many world class surfers that never seen a contest.Especially on my travels 2 western australia fuck there's some amazing shit going on over there all round i think WA has best free surfers in OZ
Surfing golfing and running...I was addicted to drugs and thank the Lord I let them go (ain't easy can see why people keep doing them) but thank God I have this healthy lifestyle now...just wish everyone out there struggling can find a support group and get through it
Surfing is my natural high. It's my favourite thing to do in the whole world. Ive tried most drugs under the sun and nothing even nearly comes close to the feeling I get from riding a wave and being in rhythm with the ocean even just for a split second. There is so much beauty in surfing, so much growth, so much depth. It is and will always be the best thing I've ever done for myself in my life. Learn how to surf.
That's why I moved out of florida a couple years ago...all my friends and enemies turned into ICE zombies...it's like the walking dead in Fort Myers...that stuff got there way late and it spread like wildfires through the community..I wanna go back down there now but I'm too scared I'll end up a zombie too. I barely made it out alive when I left. People say you can move but you have to change who you are inside..while that's certainly true, if you physically move away from that crap to a place you know no one and you stay to yourself, that can work to keep you clean too..who knows I guess everyone is different...but yeah Florida is a nightmare..I've lived in Cali and New York but they got NOTHING compared to Florida heads when it comes to getting blasted daily! It's a lifestyle down there..old and young people there get bent daily. ☮️
Word up! So true! I used to rage and now I just surf & train. Feels amazing with 0.0 hangover and makes shortboarding more sustainable. Other than a few minor injuries here and there, I’m going stronger than ever at age 49 thanks to the natural high! Growing up in the 80’s in Encinitas I saw SO many talented surfers go down the tubes due to partying. Todd “Gluefoot” Martin is a cautionary tale for sure. He was neck & neck with Tom Curren and then spiraled
When I was 11 I went to my friends house for his birthday and he invited older teens. They bought weed and vapes, my friend keep in mind he was only 11, the older kids handed him and me a joint and a lighter, that moment could’ve costed me my whole adult hood. Sadly my friend, he smoked it, all of it, it’s horrifying to see someone you care so much about slowly getting addicted to drugs, I tried to stop him, he didn’t listen.
My age is September 27, 1973. I started surfing at the age of 20 and watched Marui Pro. Machado has won twice in Chiba. nostalgic. I have a lot of respect. Life is all cool! Biscuit is the easiest to ride!
I get high off life. Sometimes it’s surf, sometimes it’s family, sometimes it’s weed. I don’t see a problem with using natural mind altering substances. I understand that there is a very strong stigma around it, but it’s my life and I’m in control. I’ll smoke a bowl and have a good nights rest, then in the morning I’ll get up and go surfing (sober). It’s all about awareness, control, and balance.
A large number of the greatest surfers in the world walked into Rob's house for laughs, lunch, dinner or for a few days to surf with Rob. When you walked through their door, you were Rob, Kelly, Shane etc. You didn't have a last name. You were a friend, became family and that's what kept Rob grounded and real. Jim (Dad) and Chris (Mom) kept it real for everyone. The Machado Family. Solid and Real 100%. He'll still hoot for a grom's cutback or off the top making that kid'd perma grin last the whole summer.
God bless you for your testimony. I wish I would have heard something like this when I was 14 before my long dreadful dirty road trip with drugs n alcohol...
hi and aloha Rob....my high... are see, visit and listen people like YOU !! Energy give me sport and my daughter...but Inspiration for Things are doing in my life ...people like YOU!! Thanks you very much for this ! G.from Germany
Rob you were my favorite surfer growing up and you will always be my favorite you are a true role model to us all. Rob is truly a genuine human being great guy.
Yeah. , he’s such a big inspiration , watched numerous footage of him surfing 🏄♀️ over the years he’s so good to watch , just like Shaun and MR another down to earth legend and a cool dude ! 👍
Just got back from a little local Skatepark on the edge of Greater London where there were only Two Skateboarders and when the Young Dude left i was the only Rider there...still getting a natural High grinding those old Indys at 55 years... well someone has to keep Surf Style and the Flame of Skate Alive !
Finally, someone that doesn’t spout garbage about drug use. Sooooo many options exist than being a low life drug user. Keep living life the right way Rob! You drive the masses. God bless brother...
Absolutely love the guy... We always see him at the Bro am with Switchfoot and he looked my wife straight in the eye and gave her a high-five while hanging out in the middle of the crowd! Totally down-to-earth
“Natural high is there, you just gotta find it....” and that may mean years and years of hard chiefimg on sum o dat big magic Cali kush while you search it out lol
Sitting at the bar in my barn. Please read... I don’t believe in white privilege in this day and age. If you were born in America you’re privileged. I come from a broken home and my dad was not in my life. Lived in a trailer, trap house and peoples couches. Made mistakes and went to prison. Came home from prison and slept on my brothers basement floor. I took what I could get for a job. I cleaned carpets, towed cars and dug ditches. I also raised my son, got out of that basement and kept working. I turned my whole life around from never gonna amount to anything... To being what I am today, successful. You think the color of my skin made me successful or the will to never give up? If you act like a victim to your circumstances, that’s what you will be.
There is some damn good old school weed in Hawaii as well, and in fact the first time I tried Hawaiian it was from a SoCal surfer who brought it back from a surf trip to the islands....i still remember it to this day, it was that good.
Rob you have always been a person I’ve looked up to you have always been a down to earth person and people like you for you not for a person you tried and fake people out with much love and respect
