Problems with scanning and RA4 printing 

Glad you like them!

But keep in mind - contact printing cool thing if you print after, because it’s fist test print and with experience you can know what to correct later.

My problem with the contact print - size of the print. All contact printers what i saw in my life request bigger paper when i can develop in my drum, but in general i like idea because you get initial point of exposure and color and can estimate how good you are in exposure of negatives what is impossible in scanning✌️

That is true, a full roll of 35mm does require a quite akward size of paper ( i believe 9.5x12) but you could start with your 6x6 shots and see how you like it! thankfully a full roll of 6x6 fits perfectly on a sheet of 8x10. then if you like the process you could always get the slightly larger jobo drum for processing the bigger paper 🤙🏻

I cut paper in batches, so usually for now it’s 20*30 - maximum size what i can print in my drum

It’s actually combination of problems - incredibly poor quality LED and lamps in the scanners, also poor quality in terms of the direction of the light and old rgb type system for scanning. Best way to scan film theoretically- Deep Blue, Green and Ultra Red LED light with combination of BW digital sensor without IR filter in this case you remove problems with base color mask of the film, problems of crosstalk’s in film and sensor and in the same time get real red from film. More or less this is “how drum scanners” takes pictures, but in this scanner you have photo multiplayer as a detector. So quick solution get best negative quality and use camera or dedicated scanner (Plustek for example) and adjust camera/scanner to produce good results with no settings under conversion with NegativeLab for example. In this case you will get at least consistent results.

I tried scanning DNG raw format with silverfast and then convering with negative lab pro but still the results look very washed out and skin tones look very cold. I never calibrated my epson scanner and there is so little information about it online. But not even sure if the calibration is the solution to get better results

@@patrykzarI’ve always had the same exact problems. Very inconsistent too. I’m almost finished with my darkroom and I will only do prints from here on out

Fuji Supreme paper glossy

This is always interesting for me because scanner even before conversion make optimisation for the exposure on each channel and if it’s wrong whole picture will be so far off what’s impossible to correct. Paper in this case extremely forgiving because you can select intensity of each channel on photohead in huge margins un comparison to full spectrum light scanning

Just in case, I used to have a lot of problems scanning Portra but the origin of the issues was the developing. Portra is very sensitive to any variation of temperature or agitation during developing. Tried a different lab that develops with a machine and all the issues went away

This is MultiTimer app on android or ios💁

Fujifilm Crystal paper various ones

@@NordicLab The most common is Type II, sold in boxes for enlarging. But I was told it is the lowest quality and that the best types come in rolls, type DP, type CA, etc.