I have 7303 and SD40M-2 8627 from the same run. 8627 has flashing ditchlights while 7303 does not, which is accurate for both engines. Im glad they got it right.
That's good to know. I wish I'd paid more attention back in the day. I'm thinking I need to dig out my collection of vintage SP train videos and re-watch them. It's hard to believe the era I'm modeling is now 30 years ago. Yikes! Thanks for the info and for watching!
I always enjoy your straight forward, no nonsense reviews. Clear and concise, with the added benefit of historical context that the model represents. Generally around 10 minutes. Many reviewers take 3 times as long and deliver half as much info. Rapido should contract you as a guest reviewer. They've hinted that they might be willing to produce an articulated Daylight set. I model in N, but I would buy an HO trainset if they made one.
I'm glad you like the reviews. I research the models as much as I can when writing up the review. It's easier with SP stuff since I have a lot of books. I would be tempted by a Daylight set, too, even though I'm modeling the 1990s. I've been looking at the upcoming Rapido SP 3/4 dome car. I don't really need one, but they're pretty cool. Thanks for watching!
Great review, Dan! The RTR locomotives look pretty good, I was surprised the ditch lights worked. I think for many modelers the RTR line would do just fine, it seems the gap between the RTR and Genesis has closed up a bit.
I'm glad you liked the review. I think you're right, a lot of modelers would be happy with this one as is. For modelers like me that are fussier about detail, it's a good starting point that doesn't need major surgery. Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed the review. Respect your master craftsman skill. Boy, you are a tough grader. Have yet to see a manufacturer get higher than 85 on a review. Still, I think your reviews are fair and highlight positives and negatives. I think that is what really matters, not the scale. Agree with the length of review comment. I don't need 10 minutes on how to open a box. Thanks again, Dan.
I'm glad you liked the review. When I started my own channel, I decided to included a brief section on packaging as part of the review. We are paying for the packaging as part of the product, after all. There have been quite a few reviews with 90 point and higher scores, and a handful of 100s. I'm glad you like the format, too. I have a formula that I use, which helps to keep things consistent and also to keep things moving. It also helps me to avoid repeating myself too much. Thanks for watching!
I had preordered these and am pretty happy with them as they look good at least in broad strokes. Shame about the ditch light stand on 7303 but I don’t think Athearn promises “unit number specific” detail unless you are buying a Genesis. It would nice if they offered the same units at both levels. Weren’t the MKM rebuilt units the ones that had flashing ditch lights? I know they got those in several body configurations
I will likely redo the ditch light, but I'm happy that overall the unit is mostly correct so even with that and maybe changing a few other details like the fans, it's still less work than I'm putting in to those old Kato units I've had for years. Thanks for the info on the ditch lights flashing vs. non-flashing. This might be a good occasion to go back and re-watch some of the SP train videos I have from back in the day. Thanks for watching!
I’ve done lit numberboards on several Athearn RTR and Genesis EMDs with standard cabs; it’s easy as prying them off with an xacto knife and adding a 0402 SMD LED right behind the boards. This unit has an ECO-21PNEM plugged into a 21 pin motherboard so replacing with an ESU 58429 Loksound 5 DCC will be easy if you prefer to go with that route. Nice review!
I've done similar things with some of my Athearn units. I was happy that the number boards on this model aren't blacked out on the back, making the job easier. I will likely swap the decoder for an ESU when I do that. Thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi Of course, when getting this recent run of RTR SD40Rs it’s honestly the best idea to purchase them with Econami sound as they now use 21 pin boards. Selling the Econami will be useful as there are other modelers who will want them; speakers will already be preinstalled for you which are very high quality
Hi Dan. Good review of this Athearn RTR engine. It shows that the price of "standard" DCC and sound engines is raising and raising. From my point of view, we're not talking about a great engine here. Many many details are missing or need to be changed on it in order to get closer to the prototype. I still think that Athearn is missing the target here because for me, this is a cheap engine in details but very expensive for what we get. Again, it's my own point of view. Finally, I get that Athearn is probably guessing that most modelers will change the original couplers for some better ones. It doesn't mean that they should put cheap plastic couplers especially on an engine that pulls many cars at the time ! The chase of profits is too obvious here.
You have some good points, especially about the plastic couplers. I know Horizon owns McHenry and Athearn, but I'd still like to see them at least make metal couplers. The model is a decent starting point in the sense that it has most of the stuff that normally involves a lot of cutting, filling and sanding already done. There are still a lot of smaller things that need fixing. I'd like to see better fans, too. The ones on the RTR tunnel motors are way better. Thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi Many thanks to you Dan. As you've probably noticed, I'm not a big Athearn fan. Only the wide spread of models they're making saves the day for them. At least, for my own self. Seems like there's always something to do on those engines even the new ones !
Great review Dan! I’m watching your review as I’m trying to renumber the numberboards on this Scaletrains SD45R. What a tedious task. Answering Your comment about the flashing ditch lights on the SD40r, I don’t recall ever seeing any of the rebuilds with flashing ditch lights. They were added as the units were shopped to meet the later FRA mandate 1994/95 iirc. Keep those reviews coming & lmk how you go about renumbering lit SP number boards… Thanks Jeff
I'm glad you liked the review. I have not tried reworking any of my ScaleTrains units yet, so I'm not sure what's involved with the number boards. I did get a couple undecorated SP SD45Rs, and one painted but not numbered SP SD45, so when I get around to those I'll have to figure that out. Thanks for the info on the ditch lights. I am thinking of maybe doing a video on this unit at some point when I get around to fixing a few details and lighting the number boards. Thanks for watching!
I have noticed that Athearn's prices have gone up noticeably in the past couple of years, along with a lot of other things. I hope it levels off, but we'll see. Thanks for watching!
Yeah, it's getting harder and harder to afford to be a model railroader. Goid quality RTR freight cars are $35 or more and passenger cars are outrageously expensive.
Thanks for doing a review on this locomotive, it is one I definitely want to add to my collection. Operation wise, have you had an opportunity to run it lashed up to other units like the Athearn SD45 or a Scale Trains SD40T-2 without speed matching or do you wait until you modify the speeds before running different manufacturers/models together?
Unfortunately, I don't yet have a permanent place where I can operate multiple-unit consists, so I've only run this engine by itself on my workbench. With a couple of exceptions, I do speed match all my diesels to each other. I want to be able to run any combination of units without issues. To do that right now I need to set up a temporary track, but eventually I'll do it on the layout. The one oddball I can think of is a little Bachmann 45 ton switcher that I have. It's just too slow to match to the bigger diesels, but it's not really the kind of locomotive that would be MU'ed anyway. Thanks for watching!
Hey Dan, huge fan and asker of questions on numerous occasions. I'm using your model building series on TSG about Santa Fe 5126 as a basis of knowledge for upgrading my own trio of Blue Box SD40-2s into CNW units, but I'm starting from already painted models rather than undecorated examples. I primarily use 91% isopropyl alcohol as my paint stripper, and on a few of the models I have stripped they came clean in a matter of a few hours, but there are some (particularly Conrail locomotives) that are in the alcohol bath for days on end and there's still paint clinging. What do you use for stubborn paint that won't come off of a model, or is there a generally better stripping method you recommend? It's sticking particularly to step wells and grilles.
For chemical stripping I usually use ScaleCoat Wash Away paint remover, though I'm not sure if that's still available. If you can find some, I've had really good results on factory painted Athearn blue box shells, as well as Atlas and Proto 2000. I don't recommend it for Kato. The paint that's on the model can make a big difference, though. It could be that the Conrail paint is tougher than others for some reason. I know that the Wash Away won't touch a blue box shell I have that I previously painted with Floquil, no matter how long I leave the shell in the solution. My other method, and one that I use more often these days, is media blasting. I've used the Badger hobby sandblaster and I currently have Paasche Air Eraser. They both shoot aluminum oxide particles. This is a messy process, and can be a little slow, but it is good for getting paint out of tight places like step wells and grilles. It won't hurt most plastics and it leaves a matte finish that is a good base for primer and paint. Thanks for watching!
I don't have very much O scale except for the train I got for our game room loop layout, and that's 3-rail. O is neat. I almost wish I'd gone for 2 rail in there, but my family has some heirloom Lionel stuff that I wanted to be able to run if the occasion arises. Thanks for watching!
No, I got razzed for other things as a kid. The coupler thing came about from having too many trains break apart on a grade I had on a previous layout. Thanks for watching!
I still need to get 2, install U33C truck sideframes on them, strip and repaint to red and black...now i need to check my photos to see if the 2 i need to model has sight glass....
@@DanielCortopassi never ends...I got 22 SD40-2 and SD40T-2 models to paint, 2 C30-7, and remodeling a bunch of 50 foot cox and Tyco flats cars for my intermodal train....such is life as a south American modeler.
If I'm not wrong, all SP units had flashing ditch lights so reprogramming them wouldn't be off compared to the rest of your SP fleet. (Don't quote me on it)
How do you like the store you bought this from, lots of critical reviews about the owners/workers on Yelp and trying to figure if it's worth a trip down from San Francisco to visit
I've been going to the Train Shop since the 1990s. The selection is a little sparser these days, but it's still a pretty good store for train stuff, mostly HO and N but also O and some large scale. They have a pretty good selection of detail parts behind the counter, though you have to know what you're looking for. I used to go in there with a list of part numbers and they would pull them for me. They have a good book section, too. I usually deal with Karen when I go there and she's always been really nice. They also have a good selection of hobby tools, plastic shapes, and scenery materials. There's even a Brio section if you're looking for gifts for a small child. Thanks for watching!
I have three of the ScaleTrains SP AC4400s on pre-order, so I'll be reviewing those when they arrive. I don't have any plans for CSX units right now. CSX power did make its way west sometimes in the 1990s, and I do have a couple CSX units already (not ACs). Thanks for watching!
The SD40Rs and SD45Rs were distinct models, rebuilt from SD40s and SD45s respectively. You might be thinking of SP's Morrison-Knudsen rebuilt SD40M-2s, which came in a variety of locomotive bodies, including former SD40s, SD45s, and SDP45s. They looked different but were basically SD40-2s on the inside. The SD40Rs had 16 cylinder prime movers and the SD45Rs had 20 cylinders. From my research, SP did experiment with reducing the horsepower on some SD45Rs from 3600 to 3200, but it doesn't sound like this became standard practice. I had to look up the Duffy St. incident. That involved SD45Rs 7551 and 7549 among other locomotives. Thanks for watching!
