Thank you for your great review. I received mine #4090 several weeks ago and it is still on my layout. I am having too much fun with it and I think my diesel locomotives are getting jealous.
I wouldn’t imagine that I will would watch a review about train models on YT But here is me. There is a little kid heart inside u Just like this little train. Your thumbnail was what being me here. Nice formations , I like them all.
Had this issue with a few DCC Sound locos I have at a club layout. Basically it will happen when the loco gets a power spike from a location where there is two power sections meeting. It does no damage but can sometime reset your loco.
Nice review. I have the same switcher version (#4023) and run it via NCE power cab, I have found if you press the emergency stop button the loco stops immediately and resumes as normal when power is re-applied, it disables the keep alive. The problem will occur if you loose track power either via a short or turning off supply as the system will see this as dirty track etc, all my locos that have a keep alive system operate this way, in fact the BLI Mikado is the only one that shuts down on the emergency button, the others continue. (which is a concern as it removes this emergency function) I have had no sound issues as yet. (time will tell) I stayed away from Paragon 3 for the well documented motor control and sound issues. Regards Gary
This is an impressive steam locomotive, the ATSF mikado is a great addition to the new paragon4 line. I hope that BLI has eliminated the performance quality function issues with the decoders from the paragon3 series.
Great job! 4K video is sweet! I would suggest; If you review Paragon 3/4 locos with the Rolling Thunder system compatibility, the Rolling Thunder system is a must!
I have mostly been a athern guy since I got into model trains in 2023. I have a athern mikado I am working on but I think I might get one of these since I see them at the train shop and I am really impressed with the level of details on it. I definitely hope to get one in the future and I am really impressed seeing how bli is improving features of the models when they end up raising the price unlike athern where the new mt4 costs $200-$300 more and there isn’t to much to justify that price hike. Great review as always.
I’ve had the same problem with the sound with a diesel on my layout one day. I could ring the bell blow the horn but the engine would not give a sound. I took it off the layout put it back on and it was fine. It’s a digitrax sound bug on a digitrax DCC system and it has only happened once. I think in my case it had to do with dirty wheels/track as a day later my switcher wouldn’t even run around the main line. Maybe it’s just the dirty track that causes all the problems you were having? Just some thoughts. Thanks a lot for this video man! I was actually thinking about putting these in my wish list and I can say this video has made it a definite yes!
Glad I helped make the right decision! That issue sounds the same. It’s tough to tell, only 1 engine did it so it could be the engine, but other engines that had tsunami 2 and esu were experiencing different issues, so it could be layout. I couldn’t replicate it on my home Digitrax layout. The club layout is also Digitrax. But who knows, I may contact BLI if the issue becomes consistent.
@10:38 - Sierra Pacific Lines refer - I noticed because I have some of those I'm in the process of restoring as the original owner botched assembling the kits.
I had an issue with mine too, the smoke unit quit working after 2 hours. The element is still on, so smoke slowly streams out, but the fan quit working, so puffing smoke. I did a factory reset on it, thinking it might fix the issue, but my nce controller said short circuit detected. It still works fine other than the smoke, so I guess I'll run it without the smoke.
Unfortunately the Paragon 4 whistles and chuffs still trail the competition from ESU, SoundTraxx, and TCS. Really nice looking and seems to run smooth, but the sounds are a C- at best for me.
From what I’ve gathered, the Santa Fe 2-8-2’s and Dreyfus Hudsons all the decoders are is a paragon 3 with a built in go pack. I’ve heard samples from the FEf-3’s and it’s new chuff sounds and sounds beautiful.
CV 29 has a bit that allows the decoder to determine if DC (analog) or DCC(digital) signal is being presented. The loco could get confused on a quick restart and think the signal is DC. DCC voltage levels are high and would set the loco at full throttle before the decoder makes the correction. Go into CV 29 and turn off the analog option. Search the web for the Digitrax CV calculator to create the new CV value. BTW, this happens with other decoders as well. It freaked me out when it happened to me as I had a full throttle run-a-way locomotive.
Good old Broadway, carries over the same hardware but adds just a few new sound files to claim that they've "fixed" major issues, crappy electronics as usual I see. Guess that means I won't be purchasing anything Paragon 4 related from BLI, I'll be sure to spread this news to our club.
Put it in Pro Lighting Mode so you can control all the lights individually. I find the auto cab light on/off to be unprototypical to the max and really irritating. If you use Pro Mode, the manual forgets to tell you about setting CV 243. Very important or your lights might not work properly. Why they didn't use one mode and eliminate some of the totally useless (IMHO) sounds from F 14 to F 21, I'll never understand. If you use Pro Mode you will lose the coupler sound function and a few others that are much more useful and will have to re-map these functions back in. But I do love being able to turn the cab light on and off and controlling the other lights individually particularly in switching operations.
Our club Corona Model Railroad Society has two of these otherwise outstanding locomotives. Our only issues is that if derailed or shorted the headlight goes out and cannot be restored except by removing power completely and reapplying the headlight function. Any other way of relighting the headlight short of killing power? Thanks.
I've only done some running with my 4023 on my switching layout, only negative issue, so far, is that the wheels have to rotate several times before the chuff is heard. Wondering if a CV function setting could improve on that? I have yet to try the smoke unit and make any cosmetic improvements. Soon I will be taking it to a friends layout for a good running on a large layout with as many cars as it can pull. Regardless this engine is a beautiful model and Broadway should get a good pat on the back for what they have done. And thank you for a professional video review....!
Try CV 196. According to the technical reference manual, this controls the steam cocks event count. Default is 2. So I’m assuming setting CV 196=0 should turn it off, meaning you should get the chuff instantly. Hope this helps!
@@FIyingScotsman60103 Its actually quite simple after learning how to. I think you should watch this video instead of me typing it all out. I hope this helps ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Esbj956Wz3Q.html&ab_channel=RRBOB
Well damn, I hope the Paragon 3 gremlins haven't migrated into the Paragon 4's. I love the build quality, love the detail, just don't love the Paragon 3 gremlins.
Overnight I have a question and it is that I have 4023 and it stopped chuffing so I took it off the track and put it back on 30 seconds but the chuffing never came back to 4023. Is it possible you could help?
I would open the tender, and use the reset button first. In the instructions manual there should be a section on how to use the reset button. If that doesn’t work, might be a broken reed switch inside the engine, in front of the flywheel on the motor
The Model Railroad Club inc in Union, NJ. Their website is in the video description. Check them out! Such a beautiful layout with so much more under construction!
The whistles still suck compared to TCS WOW sound decoders. And the smoke can’t touch MTH. BLI continues to disappoint regardless of their attempts at improvements. The most disappointing point is the abysmal positioning of the eccentric cranks! With the exception of a few samples, their eccentric cranks barely move which is one of the main joys of watching steam locomotive running gear! BLI models look ok but still fall behind Athearn genesis! BLI still has lots of work to do before I’ll spend $500 on their locos!
@@Curious_Skeptic hi. MTH has been sold to Scaletrains Inc. Scaletrains hasn’t released any steam locos yet but I’ve been told they will be like the trusty MTH locos-same tooling and patents! Meanwhile you can find used MTH locos and you’ll see what I’m talking about. I’d recommend their first offering, the K4 Pacific. Excellent whistle and smoke and perfect eccentric rod movement. Same for their Mikado. Actually, all are excellent except for the J Class-kinda disappointed with how it looked. MTH looks great but BLI sometimes wins in that department. But BLI’s crappy eccentric crank modeling and weak smoke/chuff rendering ruins any edge they may have. MTH is a clear winner!
I have limited the problem by using CVs to turn off the Go Pack (Keep alive). The issue is still there, but it only happened to me once vs 3 times in a days running. I haven't tried, but maybe disconnecting the actual Go Pack from the decoder may help? Honestly, I plan on making mine Tsunami 2. Let me know if you find a solution!
@@OvernightScaleModels yeah, I figured it was related to that keep alive decoder. It seems to happen to me mostly around my frogs which I haven’t wired up yet. I’ll let you know if I figure out a solution. I want a working smoke generator ‘cause my son loves the smoke.
@@Matt_Forcum Interesting. Maybe unplugging the keep alive physically may do something. I can understand the desire to keep the smoke function. Let me know what you find!
Beautiful models. Unfortunately I model Raton Pass and these 2-8-2's were not seen there. As it is I have a few of BLI's 2-10-2's including one modified 2-10-4 to model the 3829 which was a regular on the Pass. My question is all of BLI's earlier models had the option of getting rid of the traction tire-equipped driver and replacing it with a regular driver. While this would reduce the model's tractive effort on grades, it allows for wheel slip that could be more beneficial to the model as a complete stall which a traction tire could cause could blow critical components on the engine. I also like the need for adding additional locomotives and helpers to get trains over my 3 percent grade, just like on the prototype. Are regular replacement drivers without the traction tire available? By the way, I'm a member of the NYSME in Carlstadt.
There is a 9 pin plug between the tender and engine (the same plugs you’ll see on other Broadway limited models). Once you unplug that plug and remove the tender from the drawbar then the engine and tender will separate.
In modeling, I’ve learned “never say never.” Although these were designed for freight use, I can’t say these never pulled a passenger train ever. I’m sure it happened whether it was photographed or not.
