Trev, your videos get better and better and they are already great. I love that we get to learn through your experiences not only from the lessons on metal working, but also through your experiences obtaining and assembling your equipment. Everything you show us demonstrates one of the most important things you teach us is patience. You never get upset. Thank you and your family again for the sacrifices all of you make to give us the gift of your videos.
Lasse metal shaping has a video on problems the shrinker/stretchers have, how to fix and improve them. Hope it might help some, when I'm stuck you and Lassemetalshaping channels are the best channels to watch especially doing things the old-fashioned way that I learned growing up. Thanks for all the great detailed vids.
Quant je pense que j'ai eu un mal de chien a faire certain morceau quant j'ai refais mon J9, et la tu nous montre exactement ce que j'avais besoin! Ta machine a l'aire bien mieux que la mienne de chez Matthys 👍 As I think I had a dog trouble to make some piece when I redid my J9 (see my videos), and you show us exactly what I needed! Your machine has the area much better than my home Matthys 👍
That's a good video, I have seen shrinking marks on panels for years and always wandered how they were made, thanks for showing the inside of the jaws now i know how it works.
Hi Trev, I have a small channel where I'm building a cafe racer with my mate and we want to make the seat hump out of steel sheet. I have g normal shrinker stretcher and am. Thinking of making a deep throat body for it and reusing the Jaws on it so I can just swap between the two. Obviously the guard will need to change as well so t he Jaws can be separated. Would this work as without and English wheel I'm getting stuck for ideas on how to do it... It's going to need to be a compound curve as you've done here and go a full 180 degrees. Is that possible on a deep throat shrinker stretcher using 1.5 mm cold rolled steel?
Quick Bikes this tool would make the shape you’re after I would have thought? but I haven’t seen exactly what you want to do... I’m not sure why you want to make it out of 1.5mm thick steel unless you’re going to sit on it? But if you were you could always but a strengthener from behind although the manufacturer states you can use it on thicker steel than 0.9mm (from memory 1.2mm) I cannot see it working on 1.5mm, that is extremely thick when talking about panel manufacturing. Modern cars are only 0.7mm thick on outer skin panels. Cheers Trev 👍
Well done again Trev, That offset tip has explained why my shrinker is not working as it should, wish you could help me finish the skinning on my 1930 Sunbeam
Trev you are a metal working wizard. Thanks for sharing I now want one of those thingys. The only thing is it will take me a lifetime of trying and more than a few sheets of metal to learn the wizardry lol.
Got to say it Trev i really enjoy your Blogs, ive been in the game 42 years myself and you clearly know what your doing, great stuff all the very best to you. When are we going to see the end chapter of the Bedford Sketch.
Trev - do yourself a favour. Being a former parts guy of imported tools, I can tell you that you should anticipate what you may need for this in the next "x" years, and get spares while you can! The factories for these come and go constantly. Even if they sell something that looks like it in a few years, there's nothing saying the parts are interchangeable.
Another great video Trev 👍 once again perfectly executed giving a good insight on how the tool operates and how to get the desired outcome Keep up the good work
Greetings from Australia. Food for thought. I was looking at videos on RU-vid regarding making a pneumatic Planishing hammer mounted on a frame to make curved metal pieces and shapes. Piece of cake. In one video, Planishing Hammer Basics by Ron Covell, he demonstrates how a Planisher can be used with shrinking and stretching dies. The difference being that the surface finish is not marked as with a shrinker/stretcher. Lucky you, having a holiday and visiting St Marks Square in Venice. Hope you missed the peak of the season without the flotilla of cruise ships.
Hi Trev shrinking machine looks great mate good to see your getting hang of it you deserve everything you get your the man. !Don't forget to bolt it down! Ha,ha
This is craftsmanship at its best; good on you mate. Could you possibly share a link where one could buy the same machine you're using? been struggling in sourcing a reasonable roller, and the one you're using here is just what the doctor ordered!
worldentropy the company don’t have stock currently. The best thing to do is have saved searches on eBay and then it’s a waiting game to see what gets listed. Cheers Trev 👍
Great stuff!!! Already looking forward to the TIG episode. Have done MIG for 30 odd years and now I'm going for TIG. Unsure of DC or splurge on ACDC for the aluminium ability.
Thanks again Trev, another very good blog. I have a job on my Alfasud/Sprint where that will come in useful. I need to make the corners that attach to the rear valance, very tricky.
Hey Trev, how about a shot bag and nylon hammer for forming those large flat sheet bends? Would like to see you compare techniques between the shrinker vs hammer.
fj5gtx its an overlooked topic but if you’re using stretching principles to create the shape then you have to stretch 95% of the panel to leave the part you needed shrunk, using this machine meant that I only shrunk the area that needed it. Cheers Trev 👍
Trev. Last week I almost thought I have to buy the Metz shrinker stretcher. But I wasn't sure how it works and how reliable the results are. Thank you for sharing.
Another quality video Trev, what about using Urchfabs method of bolting down the tube bender with the plates cut out on the plasma cutter? Would solve the storage issue and be plenty strong 👍
Why don’t you have a word with Matt Urch, he’s got a quick release floor mount jobbie he made on his plasma table. He may share the setup file for yours?
Wonderful video’s Trev! Watching them all as time permits. Would love to see you replicate a petrol tank for the Nash/Austin Metropolitan! There are NO replacement tanks available, nobody’s building any for sale. I saw the green van you rebuilt. The rust damage.Amazing! I believe you can build anything! Please consider! Thanks. BKM., Tennessee, USA.
Another great video Trev, really looking forward to the Tig setup video as I have an old industrial machine that looks a fantastic bit of kit but I am not sure how to get it set up. Another donation coming when I can and love the hammer I bought from you!
Great piece of machinery that, I have one just like that and it is really fun. I hope you have seen lazze metal shaping here on RU-vid, great tips and tricks.
Great tutorial Trev, many thanks. You mentioned planishing the marks out of the worked panel. Could you explain that process and how you would achieve that. Thanks, Peter.
looks great , i work with 1.2 mm steel a lot , scania truck cabs etc , the choice of machines that wull do that gauge is limited with out buying a pullmax , and it wouldnt go in the boot of my audi . great video as usual .
I thought you were getting a bench/vice mounted one. That's a great piece of kit. I have a window surround to do soon too.. Thanks for sharing and teaching.
@@samr1275 metz do a smaller one without the stand that can be vice mounted, certainly in the standard shrinker stretcher same as their English wheels, the smallest is vice mounted and the next size up are on stands like trev has and theres a bigger one with a full on like table stand, multiple legs and mounts for the shrinker stretcher and English wheel.
Very nice, I just order one today, but not with pedal, with handshaft, because i'm in whellchair and can't use my legs. And I order it from Vevor Great Britain! :-)
Its a great tool,can do so much. I have the slightly larger 8" version which is good but has a flaw in that the bigger jaws really scar up the job if you try to push the limits of what it can do. I have converted it to an air ram and a foot pedal, anything for an easy life! Got to watch for thinning and tearing on the outside of the curve if stretching too far.
Andrew Wilson thanks buddy I’m kind of leaning towards putting up with surface imperfections over the the benefit of being able to create the shapes it does, we all like to see things looking perfect and I’m certainly guilty of that! but I feel like we’re all getting a bit carried away especially if we’re going to paint over it anyway. I’ve been noticing more and more just lately that things weren’t as good as we think they were. When I bare back to the original coach work on a hand built car the welds are normally quite visible with quite a bit of undercut and the surrounding panel work is often quite wobbly. The whole car has since been skinned in filler to make it look perfect which alters our perception of what things should look like... if you get where I’m coming from? Cheers Trev 👍
It could certainly do with a larger floor support. You are having your work cut out to stop it from falling over sometimes. So either, BOLT it to the floor, OR, bolt it to a large 600mm x 600mm piece of 12mm plywood ?
I have the same one i just use it for flanges my customers hate the marks so I welded files on the shrinking heads to mark the material less it works well. also eckold sell new stimpled heads that work amazing there in England aswell think there around 200 pounds
Wow Trev, Brilliant video again. Uri Geller has nothing on you when it comes to bending metal now. Does it do spoons lol? I need to get myself one of those, I too can see the possibilities. I would love to see you show us how you would planish out the stretch lines. I know you've covered tucks but I would imagine the technique for those would be slightly different? Would the metal want to stretch out again?
You seem really happy. I looked for this on eBay, and it wasn’t there. They did have a much more expensive head, by itself. Maybe it’s just on eBay in the UK?
It really needed bolting down before I made the video, but I made the video and didn’t just put it off until the perfect day (which never arrives in my world) works as well as shown in the video, without the tool it would be impossible to shrink in this way. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog I was thinking of the hand held ones from princess auto shrinker & stretcher cheep but at my age now not doing as much as used to if I had a bigger garage I would do a little more...
@@peterrivney552 it depends on what you want to do. What you’ve got to take into account is that this tool will go in around 4” so you can vastly change the shape of a flat piece of metal. If you were just wanting to shrink an edge then a shallow shrinker will work just great 👍
And the answer to this weeks quiz question is Linda Lovelace. Ok, I know there wasn’t really a question, but I’m desperate to win one of Trevs cool hammers.
I've had a few deep throat jobs that the jaws had locked together, holding the end of my work piece trapped, noticed I've you thrust the work piece further in, the jaws dislodge, something about a gag reflex........
Trev, whats your opinion on under body sprays, sealants, rubber applicants etc? My car is looking a little like it needs some tlc on the underneath and a firm believer of prevention vs cure!!!
@@rockerpat1085 I wish tools weren't so damned expensive. Im slowly building my tool kit for metal fabrication, almost nothing starts at under 1000 these days
Portugues br - Ei Trevor, Roberto Elias, Brasil, manda um forte abraço para você, (não sou gay) venho aprendendo muito com seus videos, sou desenvolvedor de sistemas e tenho um chevette 78 (BR) e um Opel Kadett 67 Kiemen Coupe nos quaos eu trabalho nas horas vagas. Voce deixará um legado com seus ensinos.
Ilya Pekelny the 8” model as in the one for sale on eBay should work ok but maybe not as well. The jaws are two piece, the principle is the same but the jaws have a bent sheet of metal around them holding them together and the springs in place. I specifically went for the one I bought because the jaws seem more robust and you can remove the jaws with just one simple cap bolt, the other type is the same as we have at work and it can be a faff changing the jaws over. The other issue is the hand operated machines use up one of your hands, with the foot operated machine you can use both hands and apply much more force by foot. On the plus side it’s been made with an 8” throat which means it’ll be good for deeper applications like the ones I’ve shown in the video. Cheers Trev 👍
Mhamed Smati for car repairs and also for use on thicker materials this is a cracking welder at a fair price. www.r-techwelding.co.uk/mig-welder-r-tech-i-mig180/?SID=52fbfd0e2391a05989366cefe1ecaee1 Cheers Trev 👍
John Smith Mr. Smith is correct. It's possible the one Trev got has 2 sets of jaws. Trick Tools sells a JS Tools "SS" w/2 sets of jaws and Mittler Bros. sells a "Jamey Jordan" model "SS" w/2 sets of jaws. One set for steel and one for Alum. Check both sites. Good luck.
Betty Swollocks I have seen spare jaws available for other branded machines, I would be extremely surprised if they wouldn’t fit this machine as the single bolt fitment is the same. Cheers Trev 👍
Boxcar's Garage you’re in the States aren’t you? It’ll be on eBay uk. I’m not sure if they do worldwide shipping and it’s very heavy too. Cheers Trev 👍
Check amazon for metz tools. They have some there also they look fairly similar to the harbour freight stuff at least the two English wheels metz make look like the HF stuff
My girl just asked me what I was watching. I said it was a tool for deep throat stretching. She just laughed at me and said I couldn't even reach the tonsils then left the room.
