All those guys that say they are the fastest are generally not great at understanding the slow is smooth, smooth is fast idea. How long can you keep that pace? Do you sit at home exhausted after work? Do you damge your body and then take the next day off? Are you bent over by 40? Because I realized after my first back injury that I'm in this for the long haul, constant and we'll thought out work beats fast any day imo
Yes your work Life is a Marathon, Not a sprint, if your running to stand still, you've a Problem, What's the use of killing your self and Inheriting a back like a 🥨, Work Smarter Not Harder
so you place the steel on top of the cleats, tie it up, use the spacer etc.. put em on top of the dobies and then take the cleats off, drop the steel, then put the steel back on? why wouldnt you just install them on top of the dobies and tie them together, doing the cleats last? Serious question - this is my first real concrete job im prepping for
Lay out your whole footing before you form anything. Much faster and if you screw up you’re not moving your footing around. Lay it out to outside of wall and set it up off your string. Just as an example, if your footing is 16” wide you’ll set up your footing to 4” outside of the string and 12” to the inside, making your wall centered on your footing.
I really like your guys methods for everything you do. You do everything with intention, thorough and efficient. I like slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. I'm going to adopt that motto 🙂
Love the methods you apply to your trade.... might want to try milwaukee m 12 small band saw for rebar.... i use it often in plumbing repairs and scrapping.... no sparks..or vibration . 34 years and counting in the trades and appreciate the thought you put into the way to do things smarter not harder!... keep it up 👍
Changed the way I do concrete forms and pours, I set forms using just a level. I dump the concrete and screed off using the laser level on the day. No more guide pins, as long as the forms higher or no more then 6mm lower then concrete should be sweet. Using formed pads on a slab at the same distance apart as the length of the screed. Used to piss me off when people step on the forms and I would have to recheck and often raise forms the morning of the pour. I also ditched the timber pegs and use only star pickets and tek screws. No more split pegs, and missed nails in form work.
you skipped showing how the rebar got UNDER the spreader bars. Did you unscrew each bar, remove it, then drop the rebar under and then reattach spreader bar?
no, you can see it in the video. All the bar is on top of the cleats, then we tie it all and tie the dobbies. Then just walk around and grab the verts and lift up enough to pop the cleats 👍
@@AwesomeFramers I reviewed the video again and still don't see it? at 22:17 the steel is on top of the spreader bars, and then at 22:18 it is all under the spreader bars....
@@hardwareguy1 my bad bro. I must have edited it out. I remember editing it but must have deleted to shorten the video. Basically just grab a vert, lift slightly, move the cleat, drop the bar, set the cleat 👍
@@AwesomeFramers Thanks for the reply, and the explanation. That makes sense. I (well, my contractor) has just started framing on my new house and wasn't around when they did the footings.
That Mt Ellinor hike is STRAIGHT UP. Cant believe the camera made it look so tame. The first half of that climb you’re basically grabbing onto roots and sliding
Nice detailed video! Around 8:00 you mentioned finding a problem with your drone. Do you have a software application for your drone data for surveying?
You're fooling yourself (and that's fine if you're into that line of reasoning) thinking that walking around the footing 3 times just so that you can do repetitive tasks each time around is more efficient. This has been well proven in manufacturing improvement evaluations, not to mention the amount of steps and number of times bending over it would save just to do all the tasks at each station at one time.
dont forget your towel & PPE yallz, i wonder what the overall house design looks like, with this very strange footing. The guy on the back hoe did a really good job, that looks hard.
I guess it varies from state to state, but one thing im having some confusion in is why is the footing just being poured on the actual soil? Here in california we are required to dig at least 18” below ground level, on top of that we needed to form footing ~6 inches on top of soil. Special occasions we had to dig up to 24 inches. I dont understand why its not required in your state? Help!
Yes, it does very by location. First of all, we aren't building footings right on top of the soil. We've excavated down 9' in the front to hard pan and "undisturbed soil". Second, the code and our structural engineer do not require footings to be dug into the dirt because after the foundation is finished, we'll back fill around the perimeter, and a slab will be poured inside. This is a a walk out or daylight basement. Hope that helps.
My pop had his own construction company Here in Southern California Pop worked construction his whole life Pop had a class A engineering contractors license I've never seen footing board just laid on top of the ground The the way we did footings Was to dig the whole outline of the house I think it was a 2ft deep single-story 3 ft deep 2 story or 1 ft deep single-story 2 ft deep 2 story I can't quite remember It seems like the way they do footings up in the Pacific Northwest is completely different than down here in the south is that because of the earthquake potential for us Maybe you could explain why they do footings like that up there in a video or something
I don't know why the methods are so different here. All I know is its been common practice for at least 40 years (how long we've been in business) to dig out the foundation, form & pour footings, then walls then backfill around the outside. Our plans are engineered btw.
I have worked concrete up in so dak and we also dig down and then form with 2x8, I always figured it was a historic thing as we have lots of lumber here and hard rocky ground, also deep footings (48")
I missed something, one minute the rebar is sitting on the cleats, the next it's under them, did you just slide it out and lower it as you were tieing on the dobbies?
You guys are a great advertisement for Washington State. Please dial back a bit though on videos like the hiking one at the end… we don’t want *too* many people moving up here 😀
How long do you think you will be able to work in the field the way you do now? I’m almost 40 work for my self (electrical contractor 10 years). Your job looks so much more physical then electric work, which to me is pretty easy. I think I can make it well past 50 but time will tell.
I think about this all day every day. I see a chiropractor once a month, mostly as preventative maintenance. I just started seeing a physical therapist for suggestions on stretching and anything that needs correction. Good bill of health, saw him last week, but I definitely need to stretch. I bought a treadmill and use it every day, sometimes twice. Never running but walking and walking at incline. Hit the gym twice a week (except when COVID is surging) to train muscle groups. To answer your question, I hope to go past 50. RU-vid and IG, as well as working with some companies like Huber and Strongtie doing hands on demos is part of the plan. That way I'm not bags on every day, but can give the old body a break.
I am looking to buy a laser for formwork, build a house etc and want to buy something that can do it all. Is the Stabila LA 180 a better purchase than the Hilti PR 30-HVSG? Thx, just subscribed!
A few things that can help, not only with speed but accuracy. Total station is the very best for accuracy and speed. You can layout every corner and wall you program into the instrument. No need for tape measures. We use proform or formadrain. They have spacerbars for correct distances and keep rebar off the ground at the correct distance. If you want to use lumber they make wire chairs that poke in the ground. Extremely fast and extremely cheap.total station layouts take about 45 minutes to an hour. Only issue is the cost.
Where do you get your spreader cleats for the footing? I own a foundation company in spokane, Fellows Foundations inc, do you just hammer over the inside tab on the spreader cleat or can you buy them for 1 1/2 lumber?
I used to do that chasing big Bucks ! Not the kind you spend but eat! Tells us about all the weird things you seen over the years & heard Tim ! I hv some good ones! But I want to hear yours!
We get that a lot but actually it won't save time realistically. When they blow out the hole, they go fast, if you just do the footings they slow down some to be more accurate. So all things considered, it doesn't actually save us time. The company I work for (@PioneerBuildersInc) has 44 years of job costing. My dad was a finance guy (college degree) first then learned building after coming home from Vietnam. My brother runs the business now and his background is also finance.
@@AwesomeFramers I’ve never formed strip footings for a whole house so don’t have a reference for cost/benefit…… It just seems such a strange method when excavated strip footings are so common here in Australia. It would definitely save on volume of concrete. Thanks very much for all the content, it’s really great to see how things are done in other parts of the world.
Steps in the footing is general for site elevation changes. Either they have to dig all the dirt out on the top of the hill to match the depth of the bottom of the hill or use steps in the footings to maintain the proper frost footing depth along the hill
@@AwesomeFramers strip footings are fantastic but if your comparing regions, here they are trenched into the ground and approximately 450mm deep (which I guess would be 1.5 feet in seppo measurements) with caged rio right through.
