Installing the RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators + reassembly of the front forks with new goodies! Installing: 1. RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators 2. RaceTech 0.90 kg/mm springs 3. Roland Sands Preload Adjusters 4. SuperBrace Fork Brace
This dude in the video is literally the only one I've ever heard bitching about getting free stickers with a product. Usually people are upset they didn't get them 😂
Helpful Video. Only thing i think i noticed though is when I did my gold valve the instructions said to measure the distance with the washers, subtract preload adjuster, then add 1.5in. So the spring should be fairly hard to compress with reassembly. Also, any feedback on the superbrace? I haven't heard much positive feedback but always curious.
Did you weld closed the stock holes that were in there? I have read in a bunch of forms that you want to close those small holes at the top. Also did you use a chamfer bit? If so what size?
I always just lube the drill bit with some rem. gun oil by the drop while the bits spinning and it goes far :) ive heard there's different weight oils for the front suspension, if thats true then what weight should I use if I weigh 160pnds with a lowered rear rebound. the bikes a '15 dr200 so far with a dynojet stage one tune +1main jet and -7 needle clips then a 3/8" sized hole drilled into the closest exhaust baffle. rides like a new machine :)
This is my first time ever working on shocks so excuse the beginner question. With the shock collapsed you're measuring 6.25 from the emulator towards the top of the tube to get your fill level, am I correct? You're pumping the tube to disperse the air and to get the lower slider to fill with oil, correct? You're just trying to get the majority of air out so the lower slider will fill with oil, correct? You don't have to worry about tiny tiny air bubbles, like you would have to with brakes, do you. Obviously I'm going to shoot for zero bubbles but I just want to get confirmation that a miniscule amount of bubbles wouldn't cause failure.
Packaging , Packaging & more Packaging. Our planet is drowning in it. All so unnecessary , takes so much energy to produce , transport and dispose . Your Video is great. Thank you.
Nice video. Just subscribed to you. Im just starting my own channel, working on a similar video project on a CRF230F emulator installation. I notice that youre newly monetized? how long did it take you to get monetized? is it worth the obvious hard work?
So you can run preload adjusters with emulators? Also did you chamfer the outside drill holes? If so did you use a chamfering bit or just a larger drill bit?
Sure can! The cartridge emulators sit between the springs and the preload spaces, after all. I didn't use a chamfer bit - just a larger bit by hand followed up with some elbow grease and a file!
Great video. Thanks for the explanation. I have referred to this many times for my installation. Are you happy w the blue 40 lb spring or would you have preferred using the yellow 64 lb spring? Thanks again
+James Maloney I'm still doing the internal handlebar wiring, so I haven't had the bike out on the road yet. I intend to get some footage / riding impressions once I do!
HD TwO o ThRee I am unhappy to say that I've put less than 20 miles on the front end so far. NEARLY A YEAR LATER. I've been ultra-busy with life, and haven't had a chance to run the bike. I'm hoping to be able to ride again soon, though...
@@caseyterry2160 So I've put a TON of miles on it over the last year. 15w oil + the 40lbs spring @ 3 turns is too damn harsh, lol. So I'm going in this weekend, going to come down to 10w oil and take 1.0 turns off the 40lbs spring. If all goes well, I'll let you know this weekend how it goes!
@Casey Terry - So I ended up just backing the 40lbs (blue) spring down to 1/2 turn, rather than 3 turns - the front feels fantastic now! Still on 15w oil, too!
I didn't subtract for the preload adjusters :) Fully 'closed' the adjusters are near enough equal to stock that I didn't consider the need to. Rather, I opened the adjusters about 1/4 of the travel, and went from there, determining I could use the adjusters for 'final' adjustment.
uberDoward I bought race tech for my 1990 fxr plus the gold valves to go with it. on my 2000 dyna I'm running heavy progressive springs in the forks and to be honest I think that the progressive heavy springs are better then the race tech springs. speed merchant makes a great aftermarket preload adjuster and cheap. just was wondering how you like your your race tech upgrade is all
I've used the Cogent DDC emulators with good results, and they do not require fork disassembly. they are the displacable shim style. did wonders on my MT07. what is the advantage of using the gold valve emulators?
I'm very curious as to how the Cogent DDC emulators are able to emulate the functionality of cartridge forks, without actually going into the fork? The GVEs emulate the way a cartridge fork works via hydraulic pressure. Maybe I should do an in-depth video on how they work...
essentially, and I am not a fork technician, the DDC emulators use deflective shims to control damping, oil flow. they build them for bike specific use, within reason, I'm sure. To get faster flow without drilling out the damper rods they require the use of 5W fork oil. You adjustment comes from three factors, fork oil level, spring replacement, if necessary, and preload adjustment. I used these previously with adjustable preload caps. I can only speak for my results. on the MT o7, I was getting a harsh ride on the rough secondary roads, these eliminated that, at speed I was getting some fork oscillation (140KPH) due to the front skipping over the road, also eliminated. In corner twisty road handling was much improved. They do a lot of off road bikes, rugged use.
So if I stumbled upon this video searching for XR650l suspensiong tuning info... I have ZERO idea which motorcycle model this on ...WTF? Really? What? too hard to say several words in the beginning? "this is on such bike model forks"
