Just a walk around. Been using this over for over a year now. still works great..taking a little longer to reach 400 degrees. but think the heater is over used. Next one will be at least a 150000 btu.
No! It is cheap to run, fast temp to 400 degrees (4 mins), and it has it has a blower to circulate hot air. But just like elements, you don't want powder coating items too close to heat.
The PID controller on the wall in video. They have 10 Amp relay built in, that turns off and on burner. It's adjustable temp. I now have a new commercial burner. Look at my other videos. It's a Carlin LP Heater.
Thank you for the video! Does the forced air from the heater blow any powder off? Before it gels I mean? I’m planning to use a 60000 btu on my 3x2x3 oven if it’s big enough? Any thoughts would be appreciated 👍mt.
HEY Thanks for reply. No it does not. But inside I have a deflector plate it hits first. No it works great. And when it hits 400 degrees, it only takes 10 mins
Will a diesel heater work instead of propane heater? I mean do the diesel heaters exhaust any fumes which can cause any interruption to cure the powder?
I have a friend that runs Diesel Heater. I asked him same, and he said it was all ok. I would say yes, if your heater is burning good, and not smoking alot.
No I haven't. I did put a deflector plate inside, because one time, I had a long item,and it burnt the powder. But after that all good. And the Carlin Heater is cheaper too run, than a regular LP Salamander.
@@Dishtech48 . All I needed to hear. I have found 2 carlin guns fairly close to me.Going to try and get one for the project.thanks for your reply and information.
I m using a LP 125000 but Salamander Heater. I put 120 volt gas valve in it, and its plugged into a PID digital Controller.. I have it set for 400 degrees.. I just flip a switch, and it comes on goes up to 400 and shuts off.. comes back on at 397 degrees.. works great.. I have used this heater for over a year now. and it s not working as fast as it used to be.. getting ready to upgrade to a commercial LP forced air burner. It should last a life time then..
My vent is 4 inches. It has to channel from bottom hole in wall about 4 inches from bottom. Travel in wall to the top, where the 4 inch pipe goes out side.
I have a mr heater 250 k to 400 k hooked up to my PID... It has an auto ignite but it's not continuous ignite . When my PID calls for more heat it takes a little while for my heater to ignite it . Which causes overshooting of temps . I just need it to ignite when the pid opens the gas valve. Do I have to change any inside wiring
Never heard of auto light one .. Most has the electronic spark the continues even after ignited. But when my PID call for heat, gas value opens and lights just that fast.Now are you saying.when you PID calls for heat,, it takes a while before Gas valve comes on ? If so. You have to adjust your PID in setting for instant on. No delay.. I had to adjust mine also. What PID do ya have ?
@@Dishtech48 I have the ink bird ITC-106VH. My heater model number is mr heater MH400FAVT. My gas valve opens and heater blower starts but there is like a 4 second delay for the igniter to start. My heater has a thermostat built in it and it's own solid relay . Not sure if I have to mess with the heater itself .
I have vac it out once, was worried about blowing rust into metsl art. I should have painted with BBQ high temp paint. I'm going to sand down when warmer and paint inside.
@@Dishtech48 cool because mine was rusting out while building my oven and I decided to grind out all the rust and painted it with high temp bbq paint and was wondering if I made a smart choice lol or if I should have kept it rusted thinking the paint would give me problems for some reason
I do have a 4 inch exhaust, going out back of shop. But I'm going to exhaust into shop this winter. Summer time it makes it really hot in my Plasma room. Just like my old heater before the Carlin Heater, was a LP Salamander, they are made to heat a shop. Don't see any difference. Shop are not as tight as a home. Just my opinion.
