Hey syd me agian, i thouth if someone could help me it whas you :D i whas about to buy a nieuw frame but i found a 75€ giant team trials frame, do you think its worth it ?
Seems like far too much fuss and cost to simply keep some minor scratches or scuffs off your bike. Have also known a few guys that have used this stuff and within 2 years there were absolutely sections that were peeling at the edges. Looked like old worn clear tape you would see on an old shipping box. No thanks. Scuffs and scratches mean you actually ride your bike and I doubt this stuff helps resale value all that much. An old bike is an old bike regardless of whether it has fewer minor scratches or not. 🙂
My childhood buddy owns a car wrapping business. He has a bunch of high end vinyl wraps. Brought my bike in for him to do it, and the guy wrapped my bike like he does it in his sleep. He he cuts the vinyl on the bike like an paint artist. If you have an extreme expensive bike and wants to keep it forever,I highly recommend taking it to the car wrap shop to do it.
Really, your audience is 96% male? One of the things I love, love, love about this channel is that Syd (a woman!) is doing the mechanizing. Lots of appreciation for Macky too, but you just don’t see many female mechanics with this kind of following. Keep it up Syd! You’re inspiring me (also a woman) to start learning to work on my bike. Thanks a bunch!
I agree! I've learnt so much from Syd, and will be servicing the clutch on my bike tomorrow - 6 months ago didn't know what a clutch was. But it still wouldn't surprise me if the 96% is true. Hopefully that's changing with time!
I watched a ridewrap video to get ready for a new bike on the way. I love the Syd Fixes Bikes series and decided to watch it too. OMG! I was laughing all the way through. You started out doing everything wrong but somehow the application looked really good at the end. That convinced me I could do this. The RideWrap video had me ready to pay to have it done. Thanks you guys.
I've applied frame wrap to all of my mountain bikes. I can completely empathise with how annoying it is to chase bubbles, and also how obsessive one can get in making sure it goes on properly. I always spray more solution than necessary, and end up sliding the piece into place thinking "yay, I did it!", until squeegeeing it moves the piece away from the location because I was a bit enthusiastic with the spraying! All the bikes have had bubbles/lifting of surfaces. Unfortunately I didn't catch the lifted parts in time, and only noticed it when dirt got caught in the lifted areas. But I 100% will do it again. And you're right: take your time! I also did it over a few drinks to dull the nerves a little!
Looks really great. I'm sure you could also spray the frame to make life easier. It's the same idea as applying motorbike decals, slightly soapy spray allows you to lift and re-apply as necessary, then push out the water and let it stick. Learnt this many moons ago from a couple of bodyshop specialists, it was a 'trade secret' at the time!!
Same as window tint. I think it would be hard to squeegee some of the smaller pieces if it's actually floating but yeah, completely douse the thing it will make it way easier.
I've installed ride wrap on 3 bikes now. Still takes me several hours. A heat gun helps a lot, for sure. Also, a sewing needle to poke holes in any of the bubbles you can't get, will take care of most of them. It does make cleaning the bike much easier and keeps the paint looking new much better than if you don't use it. Definitely a hassle, but worthwhile.
@@deisen123 I guess it might not be worth wrapping a bike that I have owned for 2+ years? Has a scratch or two on some part of the frame. Was interested in maybe wrapping it, but then again, not sure if it is worth it now that it has existing scratch marks.
I just did my first ride wrap about a week ago. Like you the first couple of pieces were a learning experience. I found using my fingers and the cloth after getting the entire piece in place was better than using the squeegee for removing bubble and extra solution. The more I soaked the pieces and the frame the easier placement was.
I contemplated Ride Wrap on my Pivot Switchblade…..and after much research, it does effect the warranty of your frame, along with potentially effecting your paint upon removing it. I opted for some XPEL stealth film on the bottom of the Down tube, inside the seat and chain stays and backside of the seat tube.
I love the orange, red, green, black paintjob - stunning. For some reason, I thought you were going to cover up you paint job with a totally different color, but you are just protecting it.
These ride wrap kits look great. I've done similar with helicopter tape and do my own cuts and use a little dish soap and water in a spray bottle with a heat gun. Looks really good. I also wear disposable gloves when applying the tape too. Make sure I don't leave finger prints on the tape.
I had the same experience when I first started my bike. By the end I had essentially no bubbles. It's a slow, tedious process, but looks great in the end if you take enough time.
I find a pull-stroke a lot easier with the plastic squeegees. Less likely to apply too much pressure and rip the decal. I also come from screen-printing and sign-vinyl experience though so my pull-stroke might be a bit more refined than the average.
Well done! I have applied RideWrap to two of my bikes. It is quite a learning curve, but their instructions and diagrams are so clear and understandable. Great product!
I wrapped my own bike and a customers with Invis and the results were very good. If in doubt use more spray and take your time. If after several hours some bubbles appear I found using a pin to pierce the bubble and then work out the air/water worked well. The pin hole disappears. I’m interested to see how it looks in a year 🤞.
Just discovered your channel. Really good instruction on gear adjustment (past video). 'Love to see some videos on "old skool" rim brakes and other components.
I just used 3m tape on my down tube, chain stays, and in the two places I strap a spare tube and water bottle to my bike. Seems to work fine. And some silicon detailer goes a long way to keep mud, dirt, snow slush, and other crud from sticking to my frame.
Syd you do a great job. Tell the guy behind the camera to keep to his camera work. Your more capable than the VOICE makes you out to be. Keep on keeping on!!
You should watch our channel trailer (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yizxxFW7-Qg.html), it explains that the idea behind this channel is that Macky is teaching me to work on bikes. He has a lot more experience working on bikes and until recently did all the bike work for both of us. That's why he's providing advice, suggestions, and teaching me while I actually do the work so I can learn.
I do apologise. I came off a little strong. I love Macky. He a great mechanic racer and camera man. Please except my apologies. I like seeing woman so there thing. I encourage my wife to be more mechanical aswell and she picks it up great. All that was needed was some encouragement and I see how Macky is your foundation or corner stone as it may be. So guy keep up the good work and I watch all of your videos and appreciate all that you teach us and most of all inspire us to get in the bikes and ride weather it's for sport or for your health.
I've read you can use a 15% isopropyl alcohol solution in another spray bottle on the final edges to help work out the soapy solution and get better final tack on the edges once you've got it in place. Use liberal amounts of spray on surface and back of wrap to begin with to help with bubbles and squeegee out.
Paint Protection Film (PPF) is used mainly on cars. The solution is just dish soap and you dilute it with water. My tip would be to not only spray the film but also the frame. The more solution the better. Once you get all the bubbles out use the heat gun and microfiber to finish the edge like you did.
Yall have made several videos for how to fix things at home and also about what tools you put in your bags for aid stops at races, but how do you actually do any of the fixes and things you are talking about when on the side of the trail or road? what are those practical kinds of things to get you fixed enough and at least rolling home again?
Here's our series of trailside repairs: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tcuQmYujikA.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ttkCdKpsF4Y.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TVU9_Zt6hOs.html
Yep, anyone who actually rides their bike regularly will definitely be replacing this stuff every 2 years or so if they actually want to have a new looking layer on their bike. I don't use the stuff because I ride my bike and scratches are a part of any tool that you actually use. Some people like fresh looking wall ornaments I guess. 🙂
Air bubbles are an issue, but water bubbles can be safely ignored as they'll go away on their own over the next couple of weeks. It's also best to start squeegeeing from the middle of a piece out to each edge. Finally, with the edges that won't stick, use a dry paper towel to "wipe" the edge onto the frame and that will get most of the edge to stick.
I wrapped my second bike.... .... and I can say... It's hard work, specialy to rubb out the bubbles. But the score is amazing 🤔 OK this is my opinion 😁. A smart tip, use gloves while you work, because the fingertips on the decals sucks 😉
This must’ve been a tough process, judging by the amount of time it took you to edit/publish the video. haha As always, great video. I think I’ll personally accept the rock chips as they happen, as I can see the lamination peeling over time and being another chore to peel it off…and leaving residue. Yes, please do a 6 mo / 1 year follow up! Cheers from Italy!
You can also avoid fingerprints on the underside of the wrap by dipping your hands in warm water with a small drop of dish soap before handling the wrap
Thanks! I'm waiting for mine to show up now. Did you find that working from the top down was best or is there a part you should definitely work on 1st? @Syd Fixes Bikes
That solution gotta be baby shampoo i measure and cut from automative grade clear wrap comes out invisible. But pre-shaped wrap is way easier. Yeah baby shampoo mix somehow the preferred mixture. Also apply some mixture to your fingers to avoid fingerprints for the sticky side.
Took me 3-4 hours at least plus another day or two of obsessively popping and pressing bubbles out. I don't think I cleaned the bike I did nearly enough and it's peeling a bit now 4 months later in some of the more precarious spots (near the rear wheel well, bottom bracket area etc.) Mostly looks amazing and being able to change the finish of my bike to matte was amazing.
In my experience, Ridewrap installation is like giving someone who has never made sushi, $200 worth of bluefin and telling them to make a perfect sushi roll. It's going to be frustrating, mistakes will be made, and in the end they will make something edible, but it isn't going to be pretty. Fortunately, some of the bubbles go away with time.
All Mountain Style frame guards, costs more but is far simpler to handle and install. Peel and stick just like a decal. This looks annoying as hell with having to spray the solution and use hairdryer
The solution makes life a lot easier because you can reposition. I use this trick for putting on all kinds of protectors, decals, whatevs. The hair dryer, yeah, maybe that is a little annoying.
Bike makers should use better quality paint and some sort of mech to prevent handlebar from hitting the top tube. High quality paint would make things SO much better.
You really have to practice with this stuff. The way I do it is plan to stick the middle of the piece first length wise work the middle out. The reason why is the more you stick and pull back to align the more chance of finger prints underneath messing with the adhesive not sticking (especially at edges) and bubbles that wont come out because the piece is now stretched. Another good reason is your smoothing the shortest distance for bubbles and solution extraction. For example... a rectangular piece that would cover a top tube. Wet both the piece and the tube thoroughly with solution till dripping. Place your piece over the top tube very lightly on top of the top tube center length to length for your piece and forward and aft for your top tube. Spray solution on top till running off. The top of your piece must be wet for your squeegee to work correctly. If too dry your squeegee will cause wrinkles. Run your squeegee just on top forward and aft just enough to stick and no bubbles. This part now that is sticking should only be about a 1/4 inch or 6mm from the front of your top tube to the back. Now start in the middle and hold out your piece but do not stretch the piece. Swipe with the squeegee in down strokes from the top to forward. Just do a down swipe that might only give you another half inch or so that sticks but work the line all the way one way....then go back to center go the other way till all is even. Then start over till that side is complete. Sometimes on a complicated piece I will cut it out but leave the backing on. Place on intended target and make alignment marks on both. That way I have a good start and not pulling off so many times. On big complex pieces sometimes I will make my marks, pull just a little of the backing, align, and proceed with taking the backing off a few inches at a time. Use a lot of solution. Hair dryers and heat guns both produce heat but are quite different. Dark colors show finger prints and imperfections more. Wow this is long.
these people will say and lie for anything free lol im a pro painter. my paintjobs take a street beating an hold up fine. get a new painter. dont like what a say come find me and catch hands welcome to the real world
