Hey man...i think you did a great job. I prefer the square look you were aiming for on the barrel. Which is why i like the look of the P800. Love the idea of 3D printing a slide to cover the barrel. Keep tinkering, it's a joy in itself.
Thanks, that means a lot! And yeah, airguns are the best excuse to tinker. It's kinda why I haven't made a video in a while, just too much tinkering going on...
I think you're doing a great job, I've been working on, modifying and building custom airguns for years now. A lot of it is trial and error (my designs can be a bit extreme and not conservative at all) to get the aesthetics and function to work in harmony. My only advice since you already have the passion and ingenuity (3D printing design capabilities for example, something I don't do) is to be persistent, think out of the box and equally importantly build up a diverse and good quality tool collection; i.e get a proper Dremel one month, a grinding and polishing wheel the next, then a small belt sander etc.. Also good quality drill bits are a must, the Alpen Profi Multicut range are excellent for hard steel but never use them on brass! As for your project the idea of some gas relief holes at the rear is a good one (I make a stupid amount of working suppressors for airguns), as for the front insert I think using grub screws would do the trick if you could get three evenly spaced around the shroud and to thread into or at least grip into holes on the side of the insert.
I was thinking about grub screws in the front, too (or in my case, just 3mm bolts with the heads cut off and a slot sawn in, supply issues), the walls of the 3D printed parts are quite thin in the "obvious" places, like the top and sides, but quite a bit thicker on the diagonals. But I wasn't completely sold on the 3D printed parts, they're still a bit chunky, so I think I might make a 22mm to e.g., 15mm reducer, so I can make a thinner shroud around it. More random taps and dies to order! Actually, I guess I could just print those. I finally bought a Dremel last month actually! And yeah, slowly building up the toolset, but I really don't have space for what I really want (lathes, sanders, anything that removes fingers!). I'm really intrigued by your descriptions of your work, "not conservative" is a great way of putting things. Also, I'm quite keen on figuring out what makes a good suppressor, and this is a great way of going about it, and I also appreciate the feedback! I've tried designing and printing a few, and still trying to figure out the benefits of volume vs. restriction. I have a very silly idea about an electronic suppressor that I have in the works, it has infrared LED's at the front of the suppressor, and has an Arduino that closes a little flap at the front of the shell when it detects the pellet, in the HOPES of locking the air in the chamber, and letting it bleed out of tiny holes in the back. But uh, let's just say I've still got some major kinks to iron out. As always, I really appreciate the comment, and thank you for being so encouraging, it makes a difference.
@@MyAirgunPhase My suppressors are a lot simpler than the electronic idea you have (I see a lot of smashed flaps in your future since getting the timing right is going to be a challenge!LOL). For the core of the suppressor I use hollow aluminium crossbow bolts shafts cut to length and drill a crazy amount of 5mm holes all around the shaft (so it ends up looking like the heat shield on a 1919 belt fed machine gun) the inside and outside then have to be sanded down to avoid any obstructions etc.. Next I get large thin washers with the ID matching the bolt's diameter (doesn't have to be exact but as close as possible) and the OD to match whatever you're going to use as the body of the suppressor, I highly recommend cheap aluminium airsoft suppressors which can be taken apart easily by unscrewing the ends, you can even use the foam that comes with them. I turn the large washers from flat discs into cones using a large vice with a ballpeen hammer pushing on one side o the washer and a thick short steel tube on the other side to hold it in place yet allowing it to deform into a cone without hitting the jaw of the vice. Make a bunch of these, then have the narrow part of the cone face forwards towards the dangerous end while slid over the drilled bolt tube, then make foam spacers (upholstery foam or soft packing sponge like foam is best). Getting the drilled tube to line up with the barrel is the tricky part, you'll need to make plastic spacers or use rubber grommets to get that right the super glue them in place, you can add hot glue in some cases. Remember airsoft suppressors are 14mm counter clockwise (left hand thread) sometimes clockwise or even both (a thread at each end) they sell plenty of affordable adaptors on eBay even converting air rifle 1/2" to 14mm and visa versa.
Yup! Krugersdorp most of my life! Was born in Cape Town though, and I miss it so very much... beaches in Europe are sometimes just pebbles with ice on, sigh.
Hello, i have one PP750 and when i take a two or three dry fire, then the air will escape from the barrel with the third or fourth shot, if you have an idea i would be grateful
I'm not sure I understand completely, but maybe the hammer spring is set too high? Maybe it keeps pressing against the valve too hard? You could try adjusting it and seeing if it helps.
No laughing here. I thought it looked pretty cool, considering a second printing with metallic filament and a bit of sanding and paint could work wonders. The air pressure will blow the friction fit parts clean off. You need to print your part with enough plastic density at the muzzle to tap your silencer thread. Let me digress after a few beers and say that, you might already know that friction fit silencers can work, and they absolutely do, but I wouldn't go into 600 fps territory with a friction-fit part. For my stuff it's sub 500 fps. BB guns like the Umarex Glocks and pellet pistols like the Beeman P17 can do friction-fit silencers without blowing them out. Any gun requiring a license could potentially harm someone if they use friction fit parts.
Yeah, I thought I'd give it a go in my cheap PLA before wasting money on a good metallic filament. I considered using the metallic gold I have, but that'd look gaudy, and the sanding would definitely make all the difference. Buuuut if I bought a resin 3D printer, then I'd get the smoothness right out the box... As for friction fit, yeah, no way in hell will I trust that with the pressures involved. I couldn't figure out where to put a grub screw initially though, but then figured there was just enough material at the bottom of the plastic shroud, and tap it upwards through the aluminium tube and into the threaded part. That worked a treat. And likewise here, most things are sub 500fps due to the 10J legal limit, but I still wouldn't trust it. And you make more sense after a few beers than I do normally, so thanks for the comment!
