This video shows a short overview of some of the steps I took to make a suede leather jacket.
I used a vintage pattern from Kwik Sew, called the '460 Men's Western Jacket', which I bought online. The pattern included several paper components with folding lines to accommodated several chest sizes. This took some trial and error, as the pattern was intended for fabric such as denim. Using 1.5mm suede meant everything had to be increased in dimension in order to fit. An initial mock-up was made (some clips included in this video show the first jacket) which followed the patterns as given, and this jacket ended up too small and too short. Later amendments were made to ensure the jacket fit the second time.
This jacket took approximately 25 sq. ft. of leather, and a similar amount in lining material. I opted to use nylon for the lining, slightly downsizing the patterns to ensure it properly fit within the outer. The suede components had skived edges - either a 1/2" or 1" skive to about 1mm thickness, depending on if the edge was folded. This ensured that I could stitch every seam, as otherwise the combined thickness would surpass 5mm thick in certain sections. A SPI of 7 was used for all stitching, sewn with tkt. 20 nylon thread on a Cobra Class 26 sewing machine. Some seams were strengthened with an extra layer of leather of fabric, to prevent tearing.
Please do not ask me to send you the patterns - they are copyrighted IP and not for me to distribute. If you are interested in making your own jacket, either purchase you own legal copy of the pattern, or search for jacket making courses in your area. I am not able to send you patterns of this jacket, nor any other product I make in my videos.
10 сен 2024