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Prototyping a Heavy Suede Jacket 

Skinner Designs
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This video shows a short overview of some of the steps I took to make a suede leather jacket.
I used a vintage pattern from Kwik Sew, called the '460 Men's Western Jacket', which I bought online. The pattern included several paper components with folding lines to accommodated several chest sizes. This took some trial and error, as the pattern was intended for fabric such as denim. Using 1.5mm suede meant everything had to be increased in dimension in order to fit. An initial mock-up was made (some clips included in this video show the first jacket) which followed the patterns as given, and this jacket ended up too small and too short. Later amendments were made to ensure the jacket fit the second time.
This jacket took approximately 25 sq. ft. of leather, and a similar amount in lining material. I opted to use nylon for the lining, slightly downsizing the patterns to ensure it properly fit within the outer. The suede components had skived edges - either a 1/2" or 1" skive to about 1mm thickness, depending on if the edge was folded. This ensured that I could stitch every seam, as otherwise the combined thickness would surpass 5mm thick in certain sections. A SPI of 7 was used for all stitching, sewn with tkt. 20 nylon thread on a Cobra Class 26 sewing machine. Some seams were strengthened with an extra layer of leather of fabric, to prevent tearing.
Please do not ask me to send you the patterns - they are copyrighted IP and not for me to distribute. If you are interested in making your own jacket, either purchase you own legal copy of the pattern, or search for jacket making courses in your area. I am not able to send you patterns of this jacket, nor any other product I make in my videos.

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10 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 40   
@aval4553
@aval4553 4 месяца назад
Incredible and inspiring work, thank you
@theloserproject
@theloserproject 2 года назад
Beautifully made. Great video. Thank you.
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 2 года назад
Thank you kindly
@patrickg3967
@patrickg3967 2 года назад
amazing video. jacket looks amazing, good work!
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 2 года назад
Thanks!
@alexbraun8875
@alexbraun8875 3 года назад
Nice precise work... I bet you needed some patience and experience for the seam work
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 3 года назад
Thanks Alex. I actually ended up having to remake a few components - the thing about suede is that if it is skived too thin, it easily tears. This was the case with one of the arms components - I skived the edges and accidently ripped the entire seam off. That's why most of the seams are reinforced with fabric or leather. Thankfully the sewing machine made quick work of the seams. I can't stress enough how useful having a walking foot machine is. There is some wobbly stitching in a few places - but there always is for first-times (as was the case here - I am an experienced leatherworker but have not made many jackets to completion). Thanks for the comment!
@midorimidori1850
@midorimidori1850 Год назад
Your work is fantastic.
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 9 месяцев назад
That's a lovely compliment, thanks
@wal33dmas81
@wal33dmas81 2 года назад
That looks great! I wonder how it's gonna look when it's all worn inn
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 2 года назад
It's a tough jacket to break in - it's going to take a while and the arms are a bit stiff - next jacket will be a softer leather I think!
@eszterbogolin7282
@eszterbogolin7282 2 года назад
Fantastic video! Beautiful jacket!
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 2 года назад
Thank you!
@muktar5795
@muktar5795 2 года назад
This is some good work
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 2 года назад
Thanks
@donching4520
@donching4520 6 месяцев назад
Hi do you have a tip for folding the corners so they are clean and rounded? I have some pretty thick suede 2mm (not sure what it is in oz) but not sure how to fold them cleanly and flat.
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 6 месяцев назад
Yeah, totally - 2mm is very thick (same as what I used here). I had to use a bell skiver from the workshop of a peer who lives close by. I skived the leather down to half thickness (1mm thick) - the depth of the skive was about a half inch deep. This was fine and it worked, but it was REALLY delicate after doing that, because suede has no grain and will tear easily if it's too thin. Hope that helps. I wouldn't recommend skiving by hand - too difficult to do evenly, but you could try it
@user-zq5rm6db3v
@user-zq5rm6db3v 2 года назад
It is wery cool!
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 2 года назад
Thanks!
@davidnao7
@davidnao7 7 месяцев назад
Can you tell me the recommended thickness and temper for a suede coat and a jacket
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 7 месяцев назад
This is a good question, I feel like I'm not all that qualified to answer it based on this jacket but I'll do my best. I used a thick suede, about 2mm or 5 ounces thick. At places where there was a seam that was folded over, I skived it down to 1mm thick. I think a better thickness would have been 1mm or 2.5 ounces, because this jacket was really, really stiff. On the one hand, this is great once it was broken in - it felt bulletproof. But I think it was slightly overkill. You make a good point about temper: sometimes it matters more than thickness. I would recommend a softer temper for a jacket. However, I've seen some amazing thick jackets made out of horsehide which look pretty stiff. It's all about whether you want to invest time to 'break in' the jacket.
@davidnao7
@davidnao7 7 месяцев назад
@@skinnerdesignsca ya right thanks , i guess it will take me some time to get everything right . Bdw great work there
@epicunderstament867
@epicunderstament867 Год назад
Do you accept orders for bespoke suede jackets?
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca Год назад
Not at the moment, no. Life has been very busy the last year or two, but I definitely have plans to release more videos and make orders for customers again. Once things calm down I'll make sure to update everyone!
@DRoche7
@DRoche7 2 года назад
thank you for sharing. great work! A couple of questions for you, if I may. 1) is your skived area essentially your seam allowance? why so much? 2) I'm looking to use 0.8mm-1.0mm suede to make a similar jacket. I have the ability to sew leather but no leather work tools. can i get away without skiving?
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 2 года назад
1) some of the seams are being doubled back then stitched - some are only 1/2" seams (single layer), others are 1" seams that are being folded over then stitched (for a better aesthetic - suede does not have an attractive raw edge) 2) Yes - the skiving was purely because this suede was pushing 2mm. You can absolutely get away with skiving if you don't use thick leather. Good luck with the jacket! Link me when it's done - would love to see :)
@DRoche7
@DRoche7 2 года назад
@@skinnerdesignsca will do and thank you for sharing your knowledge!
@DRoche7
@DRoche7 Год назад
me again with more questions! 1) what material are you using on the side seams? what are you using it for? 2) do you believe the interfacing on the edges is required? Particularly the cuffs, front placket, collar, etc?
@Futurerocket761
@Futurerocket761 2 года назад
Does anyone know anywhere I could get some nice leather gloves?
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 9 месяцев назад
Hi Dominick - good question. Depends on where you are based. If you want to support Irish craft, check out George Horn gloves, my old employer. I can also make you bespoke gloves. Hestra is a renowned brand
@sovasova694
@sovasova694 2 года назад
Супер. Спасибо.
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 2 года назад
Спасибо, добро пожаловать
@joablevytam
@joablevytam Год назад
Great job! How long would you say this took you to make?
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 9 месяцев назад
Hi! Sorry for the late reply. If you only count the time spent working on the jacket and not, for example, waiting for glue to dry or kettles to boil, about 10 hours
@mterezakis10
@mterezakis10 Год назад
You’ve made a beautiful jacket. Do you take orders?
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 9 месяцев назад
Currently, I am back to being fully employed making leather goods. So if you wish to get in touch, I can help you. Thanks!
@AmirAl-Haque
@AmirAl-Haque Год назад
What's the leather type and thickness
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 9 месяцев назад
Pardon my tardiness with replying - this was ages ago but it was about 2mm cow suede. Thanks!
@bartomiejjarosz5392
@bartomiejjarosz5392 2 года назад
Cow suede?
@skinnerdesignsca
@skinnerdesignsca 2 года назад
Yup - bought from a local harness store. It was so long ago I can't remember how much I used, about three or four bends. maybe 25-30 sq. feet?
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