I loaded the OZ Rosie patch on to USB drive after oiling without disassembly and try to break the knife opening and closing about 200 times with no luck. I inserted the flash drive between lock bar and internals. As I can tell by simple physics and my thump that lock bar is problem area as it is way to tight without any reason. I let USB patch execute and let algorithm do the work for 36 hours. After that buttery smooth action, almost drop blade shut. Now I like this
1.) 1/10000 of an inch tolerances. 2.) They require a break-in 3.) Take down Sebenza and clean and grease properly. Reassemble the knife properly per CRK. Barely tighten pivot screw and use loctite. Don't over tighten any of the screws. Basically finger tight with wrench. 4.) Double hand open and close fully 200-250 times. Best done when watching TV. See #3. 5.) Understand Sebenzas open differently than other thumb stud folders. Learn and develop proper opening techniques and muscle memory. 6.) Enjoy your now buttery smooth CRK . CRK uses PTFE (Flourinated Grease) and that the only lube that should be used. Ensure you knead the tube to properly mix it. ALSO... Fold a small piece of paper so that it can wedged in to keep the lock bar open. This makes assembly SOOO much easier.
🤣🤣🤣 i find it funny reading all these comments. You bought a knife( i just bought one yesterday) and you are sharing your experience with it. Now you are trying to help others. Nothing wrong with that. I guess many forgot what it was like to buy a new type knife for them I bought an AD 10 , a synergy and a assisted Kershaw cryo at the same time and they were all different. I was disappointed in the AD 10 and now i find it more fun to open and close while I watch reruns on Netflix, than any of my current knives. So i thank you for teaching me about the oil and the cautions of aligning the washer. I am more of an artist and i just try to work out things intuitively. You're more logic oriented. I love watching those brains work. So different from me. I sucked at C++🤣🤣🤣 ✌🏼🦁
Have watched many videos on this topic and haven’t see what I did. Now, do this at your own risk. I simply pulled back, towards the pocket clip, with moderate force on the lock bar. Bingo! Problem solved.
CRK are like Redwing Boots. They have better materials, are fancier, and look cooler - but they also require a longer break-in! For me, the #1 is the lockbar - opening and closing hundreds of times will make it smooth. You have to get the ceramic ball to wear the shoulder of the mating hole in the blade for good deployment. I found pinching the lockbar hard when closing the last little bit speeds up this break-in. The friction of the washers is much less part of the break-in, in terms of ease of opening. Once it starts to break in and the ball gets out of the blade hole easier, I disassemble, wipe clean, run the blade side of the washers flat on my Sharpmaker ceramic files (med then fine), strop the washers, strop the ceramic ball, re-lube, and eureka - smooth open/shut. Be patient, it takes time, just like a fine pair of boots. The dividends are worth the effort, there is nothing quite like a broken-in CRK.
Outstanding video, Jack! As a multi-CRK owner (with another on the way), your video reduces the intimidation factor (of breaking a CRK down) lower for a less-handy guy like me. I'm subscribing now.
Your idea of placing the index finger on the front of the knife is great. Not only does that help to apply the force needed with the thumb, but it assures that the index finger is no where near the lock bar. That idea helped me a lot. Thanks.
Just give it time, it’ll loosen up as the washers wear. Then, opening it won’t require this much effort, and thought put into it. I have a large sebenza, and a large inkosi, they all break in. I’m probably going to get the large 31 as well. Enjoy!
OMG, I love you! I didn't oil mine or take it apart but your advice worked like a charm. If you get as much of your thumb down fully into the thumb recession before putting lateral force against the thumb stud it will open up easily. Its almost magic. By pushing your thumb into the blade instead of against the stud it smears your thumb naturally against the stud and only a moderate force is required to open the blade. I don't think the oiling has anything to do with it, at least not on mine. It just arrived today, a Sebenza 31 drop point with box elder inlays. Also, you can close it with one hand, too, by putting the same lateral force on the bar and gently tipping the blade just close enough that you can put the thumb stud within reach of your thumb. I used my cell phone to block the blade for safety until I could characterize its motion. Great job!
I am really torn over this video. I love the detail. You do a great a job describing things. Everything is well done. With all that said, I feel like you have made one of the more simple knives to maintain and assemble sound very complicated. This thing is actually very simple if you do not over-complicate the issue. The thumb soreness issue is a user created problem. I have owned every model they produce and multiples of them. Even on the some of the less "broken in" ones, I never had a sore thumb? I do see in the comments that you are not alone though.
Even Chris Reeve has stated that this is not a fidget friendly knife and isn’t meant to fly open with the flick of a finger. It’s built to take abuse. Knives that I fidget with like my Spyderco Shamans and PM2s are all great fidget knives BUT the actions constantly have to be adjusted and tuned to keep them that way. I guess it’s kind of like comparing apples to oranges.
I very recently purchased my first Sebenza. I returned it the next day because after opening and closing it for the better part of two hours, my thumb was hurting to the point where I didn't even want to continue to play with it. For me, the action on it, dare I say it, kinda sucked. I know that people will say it's a tool and therefore built to last generations, but the overwhelming majority of people that buy one, including myself, don't actually use these knives for anything other than cutting open a few boxes at the most. Which is why all the ones for sale are always NIB or LNIB. I exchanged it for two GiantMouse knives which are amazing and still got $100 back in my pocket and I'm much happier. I know I'll take shit for this post but that's how I feel and it's my freaking money, not yours.
I love the pivot bushing. All my sebenzas are tuned perfectly. I tighten all the way down and there’s no play whatsoever and it’s smooth as hell. The blade drops when the lock bar is disengaged. To be honest CRK is my favorite production knife company
The Pivot Bushing is critical to the proper location of the washers and establishing a consistent gap between the scales so that the tension on the blade is always consistent.
I'm with you. I've bought and sold three different CR knife models over the years. I really wanted to love them, but the pointy thumb studs hurt and waiting to develop calluses just wasn't fun. I know I'm an outlier and folks love them.
You have to find the right angle, sometimes these tumb stud doesn’t go vertically like most peoples usually do, you have to find the angle that will enable it to fly open.
I’ve been asking a lot of these girls commenting if they’ve tried hitting the knife with their purse. So far no results; of yay or nay. Good video tho.
@@Cikflipp180 you’re right, we should even legislate our lives around the minority of people that have issues. Not being able to “play” doesn’t make it unusable. They can pull the blade out with their off hand, like they probably would anyway because those people are generally old and look at knives as knives. Not as fidget spinners. So your genius take is all knife makers should be making knives for disabled people, and the other 99% of people can use them if they want to. Is that right?
Thank you for this. I’ve been struggling with mine and not happy. I had Taken it apart 5 times and cleaned it. When I switched out to the thinner Benchmade oil it was like a new knife. Appreciate your video!
I am still experiencing a lot of pain with the small Sebenza and I own it for more then a year now. I have cleaned it but just not as easy to grib it the way you advised us since it is smaller. I am a little disappointed since I would love to use it more often but I end up going to the 940 or bugout because they are easy to just open. it hardly makes it into my rotation for the simple reason.
@iloveknives What an idiot - one thing has nothing to do with the other. You shouldn't have to 'figure out how to open' a Sebenza - it's a knife, not an airplane. As someone who has owned 11 CRK knives over the last 9 years (take it however you want, it's the internet, I could be talking out my butt), this is simply a very undesirable consequence of their construction. If this were any other community other than the knife community, or in the engineering world, such a consequence is called a design flaw - but, OMG CRK Sebenza - it's not the design, it's the user. Please don't be that guy - the biggest problem with CRK is the people who buy them. BTW - given anatomical differences, you could own one of these for months and still not find it easy/enjoyable to open. At that point, you will have a tough call to make.
My method is turning my thumb sideways so it fits the angle of the thumb stud. Doing this forces me to change my grip on the knife by holding it inside the curl of my fingers rather than against my palm. Then pull back on the pocket clip and push forward on the stud. Edit: I don’t use this method anymore.
Thanks for that, i suggust you slightly loosen the pivot screw as you break it in. Use kpl light ( yah i know) To use the thumb stud properly is do not press you thumb on it. Hand must be firm, 3rd abd 4th fingers using clip as leverage , build pressure on thumb and push out in direction of 11 0clock, thump parallel to knife , thumb should straighten on final release, and finish in 11 o’clock position you will no pain on thumb. I got brand new sebenza 31 , no issue at all. Yes loosening other screws you refer helps too. Give it time.its fine , it need to wear in too.
IMO, they have to be tight at first in order to mature into a super smooth knife down the road with no blade play and solid as a rock. If it were loose as a goose out of the box it would indeed develop blade play in the future. It’s better to let the knife wear in naturally and become awesome. Like a new pair of boots or fine wine.. it’s going to take a bit of time!
Welcome to the Crk family. They do take a little getting use to. But take the time. They are worth every minute and every penny. After a while you will find yourself with more of them then you thought you would ever owe. I'm a lefty and I've even got a right handed model. Great knives. Take a look at the Mnandi. One stellar gentleman's carry. Cheer SPD
Sebenza 25 is low key the best of them all, no pinched washer deal like this but you do have a little tab to be carefull of, the 25 has duel thumb studs so you can run the backwards, get a left hand and run it right hand and no more fingers on the lock bar and the 25 also has a firm mounted and bolted down stop pin unlike the large Inkosi. All these have there little quirks but i prefer the 25 and think it's the best of the bunch. The thumb studs i love, they will make your thumb sore but you'll get used to it and they won't get caught on anything in a self defense situation, very low profile and smooth. Me personaly i could do without the goofy washer set up on all these but learning to work on them is pretty rewarding so it's a win either way.
Bushings allow the scales do clamp directly to the bushing instead of the blade and washers. That means no wobble, no screw back out, smoother action, longevity. Which is all very important in an emergency/tactical situation.
I’ve got to say, you took a simple knife, broke it down into a complicated scientific theory (because that’s what this video is) and made the knife sound absolutely miserable. I’ve owned many CRK as well as other brands of knives and I can say honestly, it’s a user created issue. It’s all about your technique. This knife is supposed to be stupid simple and user serviceable. You are correct in the amount of GREASE that the knife needs. I’ve tried OIL in them and didn’t care for it much. Your video is well thought out and I do admire your approach to the issues you have, but I think a more simple approach would have sufficed. Anyways, this wasn’t meant as a jab at you so please don’t take it as such. The reason I love these knives is due to their simplistic nature. It’s a step above a fixed blade in terms of keeping it clean and moving parts. Keep up the quality videos!
I always have found it weird with all the complaints on crk studs. I never had a issue with any crk knife. The sebenza and Inkosi ones are among the most comfortable studs on the market for me and the umnumzaan ones are great also so I guess people are different
@@Niran333 But it IS the user’s fault. 30 years this knife has existed and it has worked fine for the countless people that have handled it. Just push the damn blade out from the side of the stud if touching the top hurts! I don’t get it genuinely 😭😭
I replace the thumb studs on every knife I buy. I have one guy I go to for every set and he kills it with zirc, timascus and any other metal you could want.
Maybe a small sebenza would be more your speed. Large knives are better suited for large hands. Safer and more ergonomic to use a tool that is more tailored to the user.
Same problem with my new large 31. Wrote to CRK and they advised not to open up the knife before a decent break in . I’m sure time and use will make things better, but for now, I get the disappointment. Thanks for the tips.
QSP as well. When I first got my Penguin, my thumbs were so sore, until I cleaned, oiled, and broke it in. After a week of flipping it open and closed, it is nicely broken in, drops shut and no more sore thumbs. That is, until I got this QSP Hawk, which I am now going through the same process.
Bought a Brian Brown Raptor, gave me a sore thumb for about a week. Eventually the detent got easier and my thumb stopped hurting. Hope yours does the same.
2 years later from this video they still refuse to fix the stupid thumb stud and stuck so much loctite inside the pivot and knife came out of the box blunt. Have enough of the nonsense, sold it. I rather stick with my zaan. Move on with the times man.
Thanks for your opinion. I provided but a few links of *some* of my research in my description. Hopefully you found them. I have a google doc full of video links, reddit, etc.. since I do a lot of research before I spend $450 of my hard earned money. I'm always learning. That's why it's my hobby. Zachary and all, stay well in these challenging times! Mahalo.
1.) 1/10000 of an inch tolerances. 2.) They require a break-in 3.) Take down Sebenza and clean and grease properly. Reassemble the knife properly per CRK. Barely tighten pivot screw and use loctite. Don't over tighten any of the screws. Basically finger tight with wrench. 4.) Double hand open and close fully 200-250 times. Best done when watching TV. See #3. 5.) Understand Sebenzas open differently than other thumb stud folders. Learn and develop proper opening techniques and muscle memory. 6.) Enjoy your now buttery smooth CRK.
One of the problems in my opinion is that the thumb stuts are not rounded and dig in your thumb, all other knifes I have with thumb studs have rounded up ones and go easier to open
Try to get your thumb nail at the base of the volcano thumb stud, then flick out using the top end of your thumb nail. It's less painful than using the pad of your thumb on that pointy volcano thumb stud. You'll end up with thumb nail that looks like this: instagram.com/p/B-fkemll50r
Oil is the way to go. Sometimes (always, until my 31) I remove a bit of lockbar tension to make them flick easier. My 31 would disengage so I had to put it back to factory. The slickest CRK out there is the Inkosi and I love mine. I was mixed at first but after a while and now having a large Inkosi and a large Sebenza 31, I've decided that, for me, the Inkosi is a superior design. Of course, if you just wanna screw everything tight and be done with it and don't mind a bit of a sluggish action, then the sebenza may still be the way to go for you.
The pivot bushing is set up so that you can tighten down the pivot screws and the tension in the screws will hold them in place with out loctite. The spyderco pm2 uses the same type of pivot setup. As far as your pivot screws backing out on you, yes you got lube in the threads. That's one I learned about with my 940 lube and loctite do not work at all together.
Thanks for the comment Shaun. I have disassembled at least 20 times; cleaned the screw and there is NO lubricant on the screw, switched the screw with a different body screw and that seemed to work better, but still came loose, tried nano oil, ... . And despite the design intention of the pivot bushing, if I tighten down the screw I can't even open the knife. And if I don't tighten it down well it comes loose. In fact, I can reproduce the issue easily. I will be contacting CRK in the morning. It's been a bit of an emotional roller coaster. Mahalo.
@@JackGHobbies just to clarify the lube may be in the female portion of the pivot assembly. I have not personally handled a sebenza but I do know the pre 31's are meant to be cranked down. The tolerance is on the knives are super crazy looks like you going to just a little bit out of whack man sorry to hear that. I do own a CRK umnumzaan so I am familiar with their product. What I've always heard they have a magnificent warranty department just go online fill out there pre registration card and then I guess send all that stuff in and they will get ya straightened out.
@@shaunbryan3421 Thx! Really appreciate the comments! Yeah, I didn't mention that I cleaned the inside the female assembly as well (disassembled it at least 20 times). I'm going to contact CRK tomorrow morning. I've heard from another commenter they had the same problem and had to send it back. Similar Birth date as mine. I'm hopeful they will resolve it. Stay well and stay safe! Mahalo!
@@JackGHobbies yeah man it seems like you got a lemon. Hopefully CRK lives up to their warranty policy. That last sentence was a lie. They will own up to their flaw and fix your knife.
Or maybe there is more: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9PaG1pNftT0.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9PaG1pNftT0.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9PaG1pNftT0.html etc...
I’m not sure why they haven’t changed the thumb stud on the Sebenzas either. I have 2 umnumzaans, one for collection and one to actually carry and use. The umnumzaan has a very comfortable thumb stud. They should just have a similar design on their Sebenzas.
Buy a 21, thank me later. New or used a 21 is a better knife imo. But you are spot on, with my 21's I almost always crack the stop pin screw loose a bit, put the blade in and then the pivot screw followed by the stop pin screw. Hand tight is all you need you don't need to crank them down super hard they are designed to gall to the Ti nice and snug. The only thing about the 21 that hurts my thumb ever is the crazy tension on the lockbar and unlocking it with my thumb. However I consider that a good thing as it shows amazing lockbar strength. All of my other framelock knives from different brands don't have anywhere near the same tension as my CRK's and for that I trust them entirely.
Appreciate the video, but you are a little dramatic on the sore thumb thing. It's not that bad, or maybe you just have some soft feminine hands, who knows 🤔
i always hear something about how rough these are on the thumbs and then i heard something that actually made sense CRK’s are not made to be flicked open or drop shut. they seem like a more slow opening knife with how hydraulic everything feels
I think the detent, volcano style studs, pressing on the lock bar, and angle of thumb contribute more to the ability to smoothly/hydrolic opening experience than most factors. That said, there is some variance per knife that also contributes to your thumb liking or hating you :-) And yeah, the design wasn’t intended to be flickable like a Spyderco PM2 or the Benchmade spring/axis lock.
I having the same issues with my large 31. Also have a small 31 with no issues. My large 31 is driving me crazy. When I tighten the pivot screw, it’s really hard to open and when I back off the screw a little. The screw comes loose after opening it for a little while. I was so frustrated I send it to CRK to have it fixed. I just received it yesterday and now the pivot screw is coming loose again. I have couple of large 21’s that had never had this problem.
Sorry to hear that. Really appreciate the comment! I want this channel/hobby to be a knowledge sharing experience. Nothing negative intended for CRK. Did you see my other comments on using a different screw from the scales? So far I've had 500+ open/close without screw loosen issue. Note that I found you must fully open and fully close the blade every time or the pivot screw comes loose. I can repro the screw loosen problem in about 20 seconds - maybe I should do a video. iirc 1 of the 2 other screws is slightly shorter so pick the right one :-) Mahalo
I’ve just gotten a new Sabenza 31 yesterday and I noticed how difficult it was opening the knife with the pad of my thumb. My solution is to open with the back of my thumb using my thumbnail like your going to flick it open, as a matter of fact you can flip my 31 open that way despite Chris Reeve hiring a hit man to take me out now..lol. I’ve used that way to open just about any thumb studded knife as my thumb cracks in the winter and any thmbstud is crazy painful. I hope this helps take care.
A lot of solution for a nonexistent problem. I’ve had at least 10 Sebenza’s, all either Regulars or 21’s and have never had this problem. Quit putting pressure on the lock bar when your opening the knife. Carry on….
As they say “your mileage may vary”. Clearly I’m not the only one with a similar experience. Glad you’ve had all great experiences. I love my small PJ 31 that does not have this issue. btw, I stick out my middle finger to ovoid pressing on the lock bar. So that. Thanks for the comment and stay well.
i ripped up the surface layer of my skin on my thumb when i got my first MT Ultratech. I read that it needed 9lbs of pressure to engage and disengage, but when I used it, it felt like way more was needed. Googled around and most answers was to man up and build a tolerance for the pain. Evenually I found out that the switch really was getting stuck to actuate, hence why it was so hard to open. The solution was to fill the knife with remington gun oil and use compress air to get rid of the excess oil. Sure enough, I could actually open and close the knife without needing to exert the strength of the gods to open. Basically, what i learned is that the "suck it up and deal with the pain" is a dumb response. Had no thumb print for a little over a month. For my CRK Sebenza 31, I've read that the knife is hard to open and close at the start. Over time it will get easier to open. I also found the "angle of attack" helps make opening the knife easier. When I put pressure with the tip of my thumb on the thumbstud parrallel to the scale, it is easier to open versus applying pressure perpendicular to the scales. You can also use the inner "knuckle" of your thumb, (boney part of your thumb where both segments meet) for less pain (downside being that you have to adjust your thumb half way to reach the point of full lockup. Also, <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="888">14:48</a> the main reason people say dont flick it is because it voids warranty. Chris Reeves claims that flicking the knife will cause the stop pin on his knives to wear out faster because he uses titanium stop pins, which is softer than the steel of the blade.
The thumb studs are my biggest, and only real complaint about the sebenzas.. I've owned two smalls and that aside, they're pretty much my ideal edc knife. I also feel like they could have a little less lockbar tension but i guess thats how theyre made and they arent meant to be flippers. I know not to put tension on the bar and can flip it reliably but it took more learning than any others ive had. Im also unwilling to try bending the bar to relieve tension. I did tighten my clip tho. I like a tight clip. The blade on my new 31 does fall freely if I push the bar away to the point of losing contact.
I just cracked loose the bolt that goes through the pivot just the tiniest bit and with lock tight on it it will stay put. The blade still feels solid as a pry bar and when the washers finally wear in a little I will tighten it back up that 1/100th of a turn.
I don’t have a purse but my wife does. She went through 36hours of hard labor with no pain meds. So if you think carrying a purse is weak, you need to think differently.
As someone who cuts open hundreds of boxes a day and hence opens a knive hundreds of times a day, I've had this same exact pain you're talking about. I wish CRK would address the shape of the stud, but that's unlikely to happen. My solution is to use the top of your thumbnail instead of the meaty tip of your thumb.
Added this to the Description, but adding it here since me so happy now :-) **UPDATE update: SOLVED** LOVE my Large Sebenza 31 now! I switched the pivot screw with a different screw from the handle AND while attempting to break in the knife, like I do with all Benchmade's (see my video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tFKFRPk-PHo.html) , I was half opening/closing the blade with 2 hands. Left hand pulling opening the thumb stud then closing it while the right was holding handles. Neither hand touched any screws. After about 20+ half open/close, the screw comes loose. Opening the normal slow and steady one handed method of fully open then close (several hundred times at last count) has no issues with pivot screw loosening. Really curious about the screw dynamics why this happens. ANYONE?!? Side note: Also found that opening with my thumb nail just over the first lowest ring at a 45 degree angle works great and helps break in the knife rather than my thumb for smooth opening.
They actually send an instructional guide for the umnumzaan for how to open it and i stilllllllll had some thumb issues but its nice and broken in now.
I hear that. I figured out another workaround that I'll post. Probably too short for a video, so I'll put it on my Twitter or Instagram if anyone is interested. Stay well and safe in this difficult times!
I’m guilty of doing this from time to time as well so no stones are being cast - but if we would just open our knives when we want to cut something instead of using them as a fidget spinner to open and close over and over, our thumbs would probably be fine. I doubt the manufacturer tested repetitive opening 1000 times per day in their ergonomics. :)
Thanks for the comment. Doing a video in a single take means that I sometimes comment with unintended lack of clarity and I even misspeak sometimes. Let me clarify what I intended to say. The 25 and Inkosi & Benchmade's do not use a pivot bushing. Hrmmm. Why? As I said in the video I'm not as smart as CRK, so I ask the question, as have *many*. Google this "inkosi pivot bushing". A pivot bushing requires near perfect tolerances (as I stated) and with that design you can pinch the washers, have to be careful with lube, .... People have even polished the washers to refine the tolerances, which is very dangerous in my opinion, especially because they aren't parts you can readily purchase. With an adjustable pivot you won't pinch a washer when you put it back together improperly and with loctite the screw won't come loose (see others commenters on that). It is a design choice, that like any design, has pros and cons. Mahalo.
I was so disappointed with my very expensive small incosie. That they sent me a new 31 small. No questions asked. Very IMPRESSIVE, but still hard to deploy, hard to open, slow to close. Sore thumb! I Don't like the Pointed stud. Quality is great, everything is awesome. I didn't pay $425 to take my knife apart 10 times. I have stopped wasting my time trying to break it in .went back to My benchmades. My 31 is going back to C R .for a tune up. Or refund.
I just got my very first Chris Reeves, same exact one . cost me close to $470 bucks and yes the T. Stud suck ass, I shouldn't have to go threw that too break in on a simple t.stud. I will not buy another one because of that. But I needed one for the collection I never needed one for any of my Benchemades and I have a a bunch. In my opinion the Kershaw Blur has the best T. STub in the biz
Not being facetious here, but I have my fair share of blisters, trying to open sebenzas.(5 of them) Until I learned to flick them open with my thumb nail. You are not pressing against any lock bar, and the strong detent help the blade fly out. And because no wrist action is required, you not voiding the crk warranty.
After a few thousand open/closes now, I agree the thumb nail method works best. I have a "W" wave shaped thumb nail now. If only it was a "C" shape that would be even cooler ;-) I fidget while I read, so yeah, thousands :-)
PM2 is one of the best knives EVER made! So much regret selling my customized PM2 but I was chasing a grail and it went to a good home. Am I the only one that wants my knives, classic sports car and precise items to go to a good home? I have another Spyderco coming that I have always wanted. I'm going to upload a new video tomorrow on my new Sebenza 31 - Wait What ?!? Am I crazy? Maybe. I have a lot to say on the 31. Stay well Tom! Mahalo.
The Sebenza pivot screw is designed not to come loose and CRK specifically warns against using loctite. That said, some of us have experienced some not by design issues. If you're curious about some discussions on the subject search for "Loose pivot screw" on bladeforums.com Thanks for the comment! Stay well and safe during these challenging times!
@@JackGHobbies You can check out videos on Umnumzaan disassembly. Neroknives (a longtime strider fan) is the best in my opinion. My advice when you get your hands on an Umnumzaan - Hold it like how you hold a hotdog sandwich when putting ketchup on it (i hope you get the idea) and it'll flick smoothly. No more tricks, adjustment, special oil, etc. Plus the O-rings on the stud makes it very thumb-friendly. I guess I'll be seeing an Umnumzaan video from you in the near future.
@@lytlediaz6708 ^ this is why I love this hobby. MAHALO! Thanks for the pointer! Checked out the video. I just reported a reoccurring issue with my 31 with what I believe to be a pivot bushing and screw issue. I'm more familiar with pivot screw designs. Lots of Benchmade's & Spyderco's in my collection and Blue loctite ;-) So an UM may be in my future :-) I'll try to find a friend that can loan me one like the 21 loaner, since the wife says I should do some budget knife videos for a while. Love hot dogs :-) Stay well my friend!
It's like saying "I'm never doing squats again! I did them for the first time and my LEGS HURT! - better make a video condemning squats"... You're developing a new skill/habit your body needs to adjust and accommodate. Chill out and stop being a giant baby.
You are supposed to push the thumbstud from the side not from the top man. Use it properly and this will be the most comfortable thumbstud in the industry.
A pictures worth a thousand words. Here's my thumb nail from repeated pressing at the side/base (not the top) of the thumb stud. If it were comfortable it probably wouldn’t be wearing down my thumb nail - Just saying: instagram.com/p/B-fkemll50r
Um, yeah.... so, tell me again why you spent $425? There should be exactly zero disappointment. A video like this on an expensive production knife should be unnecessary.
