Mike, Thanks for this and the other Hatsan videos. I bought a refurb 95 vortex. At 15yds it was all over the place. Following your guides it now has a new piston seal, better trigger, and is smooth as silk. Totally different gun that what I started with. It also now shoots one ragged hole groups. I have a couple of nice German guns but my Hatsan is getting close.
+Steve Smith That is great to here, and why I made the videos. yours must have a good barrel then. with out that its not going to get any better . I have a lot of German rifles and the hatsan are ones you don't have to worry about taking out to shoot as much. I am going to try and detune mine to see what helps even more, bought some vorteck springs, I sent one to Austria last week with my custom made top hat and delrin spring guide. wil be intresting to see hopw it turns out, I have a feeling the vorteck spring will need to have a coil cut off to help tame her down but only way to know is to find it out.
+Mike Ellingsworth** Mr Stepping Stone*** I did the barrel check and with CPs it seemed kind of loose but H&N FTT come in bigger sizes and shoot great.
Thanks for making these videos. I recently picked up two 125's at pawn shops. One is a 25 and the other is 177. Found a Sniper Vortex 22 in another pawn shop that I am going to pickup in a couple of days. I love working on airguns and your videos are great. I actually have a Benjamin XL ram here for another project that didn't work out. Going to go through your videos and see if you have an install video for that.
thanks Mike.......just picked up my 1st Hatsan 125....22....springer.......used , but the dude didn't do much at all with it.......I'm going to strip it all down so thanks for the nice guide !!!
They just toss their stuff out with no regards for the buyer. if you have access you can choke the barrel that will help some . I re barrel the hatsan magnums with Lothar Walther barrels and go tru the entire gun , I am glad that most people don't go for it because its time consuming and a lot of work goes into the re build including are own custom piston seal which smooths the gun a good bit but best of all the seal edge wont burn off
@@davidkirkman2621 Bingo ! yes decent triggers hammer forged barrels I have my .22 gamo magnum listed 219 shipped if your interested let me know. airgunwarriors.com/classifieds/show-ad/22700/wts-gamo-magnum-22/airguns-springers/
@@MrSteppingstone888 I am actually on the waiting list for the spring conversion kit for the Model 95. Since the gas ram dies after only four years and about 2,000 shots, I don't have much confidence in it lasting any longer with the new one. All of my other air rifles are springers, and I don't really see, feel, or hear enough of a difference to keep buying replacement rams in the future. In fact, while the Hatsan Model 95 *was* my most favorite of the bunch to shoot, the Model 125 (.22) I picked up while trying to decide what to do with the 95 (.22) has become my new go-to air rifle. The 95 is still a close second, while the Beeman GS-1000 (.22) is third, the Ruger Airhawk (.177) is fourth, and the Gamo Silent Cat (.177) is dead last. I am debating whether or not to fix all of the issues the Gamo has. It was given to me and had been butchered. The same guy had the Beeman, but I went ahead and replaced the spring, piston seal, breech seal, and cleaned up the trigger. It's not too bad, and fairly accurate.
talking about barrels, what about the fx range of air rifles with there smooth twist design that only has the rifling at the very end of there barrels, made in Sweden and there some of the most powerful and accurate air rifles in the world today !
Hi Mike, greetings to you from the UK, and may I say that's a fine old English surname that you have there! I have greatly enjoyed watching your Hatsan air rifle modification videos, but I have one request for you.... I see that on your bench top you have a barrel mounting block with the barrel and cocking lever removed. Please could you make another video showing how you did that, as I would really like to know how I could do the same with my Hatsan air rifle. Many thanks in advance, from Steve G in Portsmouth. :-)
Mike Ellingsworth** Mr Stepping Stone*** Good stuff Mike, I'm really looking forward to seeing how you do it. It's past midnight here and I have to get up early for work tomorrow, but I will check in again tomorrow night for more updates. Thank you for your prompt reply. :-)
thanks for all the info mike, just got a 125 vortex sniper and keep reading about hard and possibly under sized piston seals that fail , would it be beneficial to change it??
Yes absolutely grab a new vortex piston seal and spring. I can make a custom guide and top hat @ 50.00 shipped but I would need your new vorteck spring. Air rifle head quarters sells lubes too but I go with the V teck seal & spring on thees
Could someone answer a pair of questions? The accuracy of an air rifle resides only on the combo chosen pellet-grooves of the barrel? I got five air rifles and the most accurate among them is a Gamo Hunter 440 with its horrible factory trigger and its spring with an enormous "twang". I don't understand. Those two factors should leave it as the less accurate but it's exactly the opposite. If the barrel deserves fixing both problems I would purchase a Charlie Datuna trigger and some day a gas ram but I don't know which. It's a 19-21 joules version, a British FAC because I live in Spain and the limit without firegun license is 24,2j. The power of the spring has something to do with the precission or could I ruin it installing a gas ram and altering the present power or air pressure?
+Perico De Lospalotes air rifle are all different some are very pellet picky while others not so much but usually you buy the well known good pellets and choose the pellet the does the best for accuracy out of that . nothing is set in stone you have to try it to find it out. Also what some people call accurate is not what some one else may call accurate for example how tight are the pellet groups and at what distances? some one might say oh I get 2" groups at 20 yds? thinking that that is accurate when a really accurate rifle should get dime size groups or better at 20 yds some gamos do have accurate barrels but like any air gun, there is a lot of room for improvement such as a proper fitting guide and maybe detuning the power to lesson the recoil and a better piston seal and proper lubes if you have a good rifle a better trigger sure will help
Hey mike, you said you choked George's barrel , my barrel I good 1/3 of the way but almost falls out the rest of the way so no choke, I have a hydralic pipe press at work that could give it a little squeeze at the end and wondering if that would help?? And yes I know I would have to go slow and be very carefull!!!! or would the wedding band method be better??
what we do is get a # 8- 1" hex bolt cut the head off then drill it close to the barrel size and cut it in half if that's what you mean by wedding band. hatsan barrels are made of crappy steel and steel will spring back so go for it you have nothing to loose, and like you said take it slow & easy hatsan barrels suck a god one comes thru but most are bad, over sized or choppy & tite its rediculess
i dont think pushing a pellet through the barrel proves its a lemon since whether i put a pellet in the breech end or muzzle end I get resistance for the first 3rd of the barrel and then it slides easily the rest of the way. logically the pellet just erodes as it fights the rifling until there's no material left to grab on to.
It is lead so it will conform to the bore ( not erode) 16" or 17" of travel is not much , If the first third is tighter than the last 2/3 then the bore to pellet fit will be looser ! N ow eventually it comes down to how the rifle groups Ever see the grooves on a pellet thru a tite bore? its being shaped to the bore and I had tons of pellets that were consistent all the way thru the bore hatsan barrels are known for being over sized earlier on the bores were so tite in the area of the "block" that the rest of the bore was to big because the pellet was squished down they been pretty good now days I believe they corrected that problem
@@MrSteppingstone888 like i said if i put the pellet in breech or muzzle first i get the same outcome, tight then loose exit, both ways cant be correct.
@@mst3kpimp that sounds like the barrels choked on muzzle end squeezing the pellet and breech / block end is tite squeezing the pellet after you started the pellet past the bores opening how far do you get from each end before the pellet no longer has drag either way thats not except able / Ideal should be consistent or at least most of the bore being consistent/ it can be typical to have a lose spot here & there as travel goes thru/ and a typical choke at end of barrel
Hi Mike, nice video! I am debating between a Hatsan 130 and 135 in .25 or .30 cal? Mostly for hunting small game with an occasional coyote. My go to rifle is a 350 magnum .22 cal. I only had one Hatsan before, a 125 in .25 cal. Unfortunately the sound suppressor snapped while cocking the gun. I returned it for a Patriot. I love springers for hunting. What is your impression of the Hatsan 135 in .30 cal? Am I better off with the .25 for long term reliability and a smooth shot cycle? Thanks!
Hi Tom I stick with the .25 for what game your hunting its praticle for pellet cost and everythng else Iam not up on the .30 but my friend says it has a good shot cycle too and thats due to the larger bore but I say stick with .25 thats my favorite
I forgot to mention the 125 in .25 has the longer barrel which if you have a good one is better then the short one exstratcing the most power from the gun and contributong to better acurecy
@@MrSteppingstone888 Hi Mike, your timing is impeccable! Of all things, and days of contemplation, I just ordered the Hatsan AIRTACT in .25 cal. Hoping to get power in FPE, reasonable accuracy, and in a 6.5# rifle instead of 9.5#. I had a Hatsan 125 that was huge for my needs. In .30 cal I'll take that, but I didn't even know they made the AIRTACT and Edge. I'll probably run irons and zero it at 30 yards. I'm optimistic the power plant is typical Hatsan. I like the scope base over the Edge. I may regret it down the road? I can shoot, I'm not a trigger snob, and I can use the savings for a better optic or a SeeAll tritium sight. Have you tuned an AIRTACT before?
My hatsan 130s has a canted front sight, it's so far off I cannot sight it in , is there a way to fix this? Also hatsun 48.6g pellets wont fully seat into the chamber, not even close.. please help!
@@MrSteppingstone888 how hard is the fix? The pellets should fit being hatsan brand though right? They are the only ones I've tried, bought 5 tins thinking they would be fine. I can still shoot the pellets but I'm afraid the skirts are being damaged when the breach is closed, it closes fine.
@@jake4194 Did you try using something to seat the pellet in like a old nail bunch with the tip ground back and rounded off to size for the pellet skirt?? you get what you get with hatsan they don't make everything perfect find something to seat the pellet in, a simple tool can work better than your finger and if they are then accurate dont worry about the skirt
@@MrSteppingstone888 yeah it only goes so far and sticks out about a 16th of a inch but it seems to be shooting ok. These sights are a big problem though I cant adjust them far enough. The front sight is visibly canted.
Hello sir, I have another question about the piston seal on the hatsan 125. ls it true that is made of hard plastic? l have a chance to buy a rubber seal. l think that a rubber seal should perform much better ofcourse. So, is the original one really madr of plastic and would a rubber one be a better option? Thank you very much.
+Cetriem Mmmm The hatsan seals are junk and will burn up and are undersized. air rifle head quarters sells the hatsan 95 seal and the 125 and 135 hATSAN SEAL FOR SPRING YOU NEED TO GO TO Vorteck Products inc but be careful the 135 spring is the same as the 125 spring but he states under wise I think the 95 spring is ok no confusion there/ Vorteck may have the hatsan seals but I use the jm seals and get springs for hatsan from Vorteck
Hi Mike. Just purchased a 125 in .22. What kind of accuracy should I expect to get at 50 & 100 yards? So far I’ve only tried the Crossman premier 14.3 grn pellets. I’ve noticed that groups appear to tighten after 15 pellets or so. I’m getting about a 5” group at 100 yds with variable 1-3 mph winds. I’m shooting bagged off a bench with toe bag as well. I’m using the 3X9 cheap scope that came with the rifle. So Is a 5” group good, bad or average? Just trying to figure where I’m at in the accuracy department. Thanks.
I would start out 18 yds then when that zeroed in take it to 30 first 30 yrds will tell you what you have at 100 yrds 5" is proably typical with out tuning the trigger or getting the rifle set up with custom guide & aftermarket spring I rebarrel them if you intrested and highly recomend .25 in the 125 or 135 gun over the .22 it smoothes the shot cyclye alot more
@@motorgearhead unfinished barrel is 135. shipped to me unless you have a hand break I can cut off for a reinstall for your open sights there wont be any. labor 125.00 for the barrel work new crown & face and breech chanfered /new piston seal 10.00 / breech seal checked & adjusted/ trigger tune with new screw and adjustment receiver rear reamed out and smoothed out tube cleaned out & fresh lube burnished into tube re assembeled , barrel tested and adjusted and shipping back 130.00 total 400.00 is yours a springer or a gas ram / vortek has coston springs I make custom spring guide & top hat for them/ also I can rebuild the gas ram alot are failing due to bad O rings
@@jameswill6541 If everything is out of the brake except the internal spot welded separator, dividing the loose parts side to barrel side then install the two metal cups into the housing open end side in first one after the other then insert the curler looking cartridge with the fabric wrapped around it then the next one. next add the O ring and screw the threaded lid back on. outside of the hand brake is a small piece which is a external spacer that goes on the barrel first then the hand brake
Hi Mike I have a hatsan qe 130 vortex piston. After a month or two after receiving it, it wouldn't cock and I believe its the cocking lever. If I send you pics of what's wrong can I buy those parts from you?
Hi, I have read the 135 has a 30mm diameter compression chamber, where as the 125's is 29mm. Both are said to have same stroke of 120mm. Can you confirm this?... Is it possible to put a 135 compression chamber into the 125 rifle? ... Do you have an email address to organise tuning? Thank you.
The stroke is the same. the 135 piston is a tad heavier! can you put a 135 compression chamber into a 125? the chamber is the receiver tube size its not a specific separate part. not currently taking on tunes , thees rifles dont tuned they get worked with new springs & seals and spring guide. only way to tune thees is to de power them and usually no one wants that as they want full power.LOL call my friend Rich he works thees also but make sure your barrel is a good one first before shipping it out 330-853-9916
What would be the better buy ? Hatsan 125 Sniper vortex .25 or Hatsan 125 Springer in .25 caliber with the main spring. Is the Springer better than the gas ram? Would like to be able to put a scope on the rifle without ruining my scope due to the recoil! I know you said to use the crosman xp are np gas ram in the hatsan 125 Sniper vortex. 25 is that assembly just a straight drop in without any modifying?
Hi Tony hatsan vortex rams often fail. You would need to buy the springer. later if you want to convert it to a gas ram you can but you would need to make adapters for it or get back to me and I can make them for you.
@@robertw5008 Krale outside of the US will have it at your door in three days. you will need to ask your bank to allow the transaction for them to go thru. they usually will set it up for a a brief time like a day Krale is good to deal with. www.krale.shop/en/hatsan-mod-135/
hello mike 'love your video's 'here's a little food for thought 'as you know the piton seal holds the front of the piston from scraping against the piston wall ( correct)? im working on an old hatsan 125 sniper I have get the new piston seal 'but before I replace it 'im taking the rifle down to the machine shop 'im going to have them drill and grove the back of the cylinder and put fiber slides in with just enough play so it wont drag'when being cocked 'that ends the bouncing around when fired 'with out the up grade I designed it all ways bounces around on any type air rifle ( correct )? when fired they bounce around like a supper ball on a highway till it bottoms out 'so just between you and me what do you think of my upgrade?
Hi George the hatsans 125 ? and 135 do have a bit of play on the back end of the piston. some guys will button the piston with delrin, I used to dril using a flat bottom end mill 1/4" then cut delrin rod, use two part epoxy to set them in then when fully cures I would dremel them down. Now I found it easier to just lathe down some delrin to where it will just fit into the receiver then cut a grove on the piston and drill out the delrin til I got it down to a ring then part it off and cut the ring on a diagonal so it joins back when its snapped over the groove made on the piston, your machine shop can do that one easy enough. the thing with the hatsan is the inside of the receiver size fluctuates so what you make will help with the rattle but it often is not as nice as the fit was when it first went into the receiver usually I'll ream the crap out of the back end of the receiver then see how the fit is when I push the piston further down into place then you can get a judge on getting the fit better. it may take several redo's whatever you do dont sand the cocking slot hard or heavy the hatsan steel is soft and if you over do the cocking slot the cocking arm will start to rattle you have to go overseas for hatsan barrel its not worth the shipping or buy a refurb and check the bore to see if its fair hatsan barrels are a toss of the coin for good bad or ho hum barrels
I dont where some get that info but the barrels are so junky they won't drill properly due to the metal giving away in the process. a Lothar walther barrel is probably 2x as heavy as a hatsan barrel out of its block
No it takes lathe work and working the process out to pull it off with having failure in the process, I wont give that info out because it cost me to much, and currently won't do any rebarreling because I work 5 days a week and need time for my two day weekend for my sanity
You could buy a .25 cal cleaning rod and bag of cleaning patches and use goo gone, with a 30. cal you would need to put more patches in before you push them thru to fill the bigger bore here's a quick video with some ideals Iam talking about ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_4644AFb0SE.html
Hey Mike, You mentioned you fill the springs to 170 bar.. I have a vortex piston Hatsan 125 .25 Cal. What is the Hatsan 125 spring filled to from the factory? Thanks
I have no Idea what Hatsan fils their rams too / later I'll be able to compare one but the guns been apart since I bought it waiting its turn for its project I have in mind
Mike Ellingsworth** Mr Stepping Stone*** Ok thanks for the response. How much would you charge to fill a gas spring to 170 bar? & Is it possible to fill it more than 170 ? Thanks
170 bar for the hatsan 125 - 135 was the level that seemed stable more than that and the crony numbers were all over the place Iam pretty sure the 170 bar is good bit more then crosman XL and hatsan vortek I think cocking was like 50 to 55 can't remember the ram was filled by the company I bought it from Special springs probably 4 years ago I do not remember what ram it was they have numbers
Not on a powerful gun like this but a rear piston delrin bearing ring is helpful keeps the rear piston end off the tube & makes it's travel smooth and wont allow it to jump around see in this video at 8:10 in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-01fOEWmnRmg.html
Are you saying when you close the barrel it wont stay shut or it pops open easy ? is the spring jam installed on the receiver tube / 8:58 shows the barrel you can see the silver tip jam sticking out of the block
L attacco della canna gamo è una vera merda è in plastica, vorrei cambiarlo con una totalmente in acciai ma non la trovo ,sai se haatsan con quakche aggiustalsççg
Same here at the receivers end. Any tips for lapping that part? Would cleaning pellets attached to a stick work? And then use some chrome/metal polish?
Hi. Are you in the United states? If your under warranty you need to return it. if you are not under warranty. You could send it to a friend of mine and he will install another barrel, let me know and if thats what you want I' Il give you his info. Thanks
I am from south america. I have the rifle about 2 years now . I have watch the tips of your video and i realised was something wrong.I could try to do something about it my self but to order a new barrel blank is not very easy. Is there a another way i could try.
You have a bad barrel , and there is nothing you can do to fix the bore. Iam guessing it shoots all over the place with 2/3rds of the bore to big.. Its late here in the U S Iam going to bed. sorry for the bad news
It was no bother at all. thats the chance we take when we buy a hatsan, it is because they dont keep up with the proper quality control, because they do not care. They have the capability to make the barrels rite but will not take measures for that to happen. It could be because the steel they use on the barrels is very crappy so soft and when machined it dose not machine rite it, even the metal shavings chips are weird and not normal
Hi The xl rams are good I used them. you will need adapters for the end plug and ram body. I found some hatsan have the pre drill hole at the bottom of the piston which is just the size for the xl but could be enlarged or tip of ram arm decreased. and I cant remember but you may need to add a steel spacer at the bottom of the piston with its own drilled out divot in order to get the rams body back further towards the end plug if you need adapters let me know I can make them for you and later you can adjust it if needed the steel adapter if needed in the bottom of the piston would be little less than 3/8 if I remember. awaysmike@hotmail.com
