PT12 Building A Spec Miata. Power Steering Delete, MX5, Autocross,Track Car This video will save you a ton of money on how to delete your P/S for ZERO $$$$$$$$$$$ on you Miata
Thanks for video. I have a 93 Miata which I’m going to do this. Correct me if I’m wrong. I’m just looping the pressure line to the return hose. Looking at the factory Miata service manual as I write this. I replaced all my brake parts as per your videos first part of the week. Thanks again for your videos. 😎
Whats Up Al! Loving all the videos - I'm currently back at tracking and have a 02 nb se with ac + power steering. Watched the video and I know you can take de-powering the steering rack a step further by removing it and doing the full de-power or buy one already but if you just do the method in your video - would you consider it safe enough for tracking - currently I'm in the NASA hpde program working my way up. Im keeping the ac it gets hot in the south. Your videos are awesome and inspiring, I'm currently doing the timing belt + water pump change...thanks man.
Thank you for this video, very thorough! I have followed your steps on my 2002 LS and I am getting CEL P0850 and P0507. Idle is high at warm up 1200 RPMS until I push in the clutch or when in gear driving. Go back to neutral with clutch out and idle goes high again to about 1200 RPM's. I am assuming it is the switch from the power steering pump. Any suggestion on how to fix this issue? I am on stock ECU.
Should show how to pull the rack, remove the spool valve from the pinion shaft, weld the pinion shaft to prevent flex, and cut the seal off the rack. Cut off the tubes from the flare nuts and fill the hole with weld to make them plugs. No need to buy custom plugs. Still zero $
It depends entirely on your alignment, but as someone who street drives a Miata with extended lowers on 200tw tires, toe/thrust angle has a whole lot more to do with premature tire wear than camber. In other words, get a really good alignment from a shop you trust. As far as why extra camber is wanted for racing in general, it’s kind of complicated but the idea is to maximize the contact patch of the front outside tire around a fast corner, because the factory camber gain from unequal length double wishbones and the car’s inherent caster angle is often inadequate for performance driving. TL:DR if you don’t track or autox your Miata regularly, or haven’t lowered it down to the subframes, don’t bother with extended fronts. Just use that money to get a good alignment, I promise you won’t regret it
@@elementaljosh Thank you. What I understand is not many people understand the nuisances of aligning a Miata with the independent suspension. Not many people know the rear suspension flexes to effectively “steer” with the rear also. The bushings in the rear are softer on purpose. If you are interested, I can dig up the references to what I am describing. I’m not bonkers crazy. I found this researching the engineering on the first models. Back to the original subject. Get a good trusted person/ companY to do the alignment and I am assuming the tolerances on the adjustments are such that extended lower ball joints will not completely baffle the tech if they hAve note dealt with this before.
You can run extra negative camber on a street car. You will wear out tires in the front more quickly. We add more negative camber on race cars to increase the grip in turns. The outer tire will stand up giving it a larger foot print that equates to more traction. We trade off tire life for traction for racing. I hope this helps and thank you for watching.
Why would someone want to delete the PS? Is there a rule for Spec Miata that doesn’t allow it? Is it faster? Seems like you’d wanna keep it in there for comfort.
Increase horsepower going to the rear wheels. Al gives a clue to the energy being used by the pump when he talks about the wire he removes, the idle has to increase so the engine doesn't stall due to the load the pump is using. Is it mandatory to remove the power steering? No, the rules state that it is allowed to be removed.
Yes the PSP (Power Steering Pressure Switch) lets the computer know that the pump is making a ton of pressure and to increase the idle so the engine does not die. Same thing with the A/C. We remove the P/S so we can feel what the car is doing on the track. Also the P/S doesn't like the constant high RPM's of the track so we remove it. I have never seen anyone race with the P/S still connected. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
