When it's time to replace service lines, is your crew spending more time digging and filling than actually getting the line in place? You might be missing a vital tool; a service line puller kit.
I used this product to pull 120ft of 1 1/4” pex pipe through a 1 ¼” pvc water main in Arizona fountain hills - hardest dirt known to man Under a drive way, existing pipe was 3ft deep Worked liked a charm Mighty approved
It's always an easy pull when you're pulling through 30' of a freshly dug trench with 2' of light backfill (not even tamped) on top of it. Show me one that's been in the ground for 30 years and 5' deep. Then I'll be impressed.
Screw the overpriced kit. We replace the old PE services with copper. Where a single service would supply 2 residents under a street. We pull back two 1” type K copper back. Using a splitter bullet which we then attach to both copper lines. We use a 420E Cat Backhoe to pull the service. We also use it to replace 2” galvanize pipe with PVC Under a driveway or or stub across a street. If we can’t pull it we put the Pneumatic Mole or as we call it (Hog) and either run besides the old one or use it to drive the old one out and slip the new one in right behind it. The longest pull I have done so far has been 100 ft as that is the longest length of copper we have and we don’t want any Packjoint connections under the street, we could use flare but if I have to have a connection under a paved surface I’ll run PVC either as an encasement or as it’s supply.
Kobus Services Ltd - THE pipe replacement machine that’s nice does it operate off of the hydraulic connections? Lead is quite easy to pull as it in a sense it lubricates the hole. We have finished replacing all our lead services recently. Why not just shoot a Pneumatic Hog/Mole and Move on to the next. Instead of destroying half of the street. Make a new tap on the main on the backside abandon the old tap. We make direct taps with the Mueller B-101 very rarely do we ever use a saddle. Direct taps on CI and DI mains. Only PVC mains are 2” or 3” insize all others are DUCTILE IRON. The exception would be other surrounding cities we have taken over. Some of them are a complete nightmare. So we are replacing the Junk PE services as fast as possible one. I think we have 8,000 +|- PE services left. We replace them when they begin to leak. If we run across thin wall copper we replace it as well.
There were so many inquiries about how to use this product. Many from less seasoned users, that it became apparent that we simply needed a visual as to how to use the Kit. The NCT staff put this video together to be used as a visual. I understand it dos not depict every jobsite type you may encounter. The NCT Puller Kit has been used for many years in all types of jobsite conditions. Thanks for having a look.
Used this method several times mostly for services under a road or lots of utilities, usually the hardest part is getting the old service to move once you start pulling
Recently purchased this to replace an 80 year old galvanized water line 4.5ft in the ground pulled 20ft of pipe under a front porch with this system and it worked flawlessly it's a wise investment very simple to use and worked surprisingly well
Wasted your money but if you got it waste or got the time to hook all that up so he it , you could have most likely just added some pull soap or dish liquid and push it through or used a ball a roll of string and a shop vac on exhaust and blue the ball and string through the line then pull your new line in .
Having an excavator make this a safe application. We have used the "anchor to one truck and pull with another in the past" Definately gets sketchy going through rock or thick tree roots. Great demonstration.
I don’t see how that simple compression fitting will hold the new pipe without letting it go halfway inside the ground? Shouldn’t the pipe be bolted to the head or something?
Lets see you get the cable through a 50 year old galvanized 3/4" diameter pipe filled with massive amounts of hardened rust and calcium, which is generally the reason for replacing the pipe in the first place. Can you get your money back if the cable will not fit inside more than a few inches"
I just watched Cucamonga valley water pull 1" copper through 1" galv. well they actually pull the galv pipe as they pull the copper. They dug down to the 90 below the meter box and then dug the corp up and cut about 4ft of the galv pipe out then took the jackhammer layer down into the 1 galv. pipe and ran the hammer to jar the galv pipe say 6" and then ran the cable through it and pull the copper behind the galv.
Most times than not i've seen them directional bore new services along side old abandoned ones. No ones got time for pulling that old shit out especially if its 6 feet deep and surrounded by clay
What you do in that situation is use an energizer and locate the line. From there if you have 100' of cable for example, you would locate the pipe in the ground and dig down at around 100' run the cable and pull 100' of new pipe, they locate another 100' of pipe and dig down and pull another 100' and repeat this process several times until you have your line complete. If you have 1700' of pipe to run your better off getting a trencher. Where this works best is if you need to run a water line under a lot of concrete or you don't want to mess up landscaping as with this you have minimal digging. I run a bunch of water lines and when you tell customers you don't have to tear up their yard, trenchless becomes a valuable selling tool.
