Great video. I went out and checked my hitch, everything was loose. I made the proper adjustments per your video. The large pivot bolt was dry as a bone. I greased it up good and and tightened it up to your specifications. Thx again
If you do another video. Add checking the torque of the castle nut on the hitch roller and the condition of the roller washers and the roller sleeve to annual maintenance.
Discovered these over 15 years ago,, & inittially decided one of these would be mounted in a Ram truck someday,, when we finally decided to get a 5th wheel & hit the road full time. Well,, 15 years later,, we are getting real close to getting a truck & 5th wheel,, & ''still'' looks like the Super Glide is the ''no brainer'' way to go. 😉 Don't understand why its not in the current ratings though ?? 🤔 It is a super slick ''stout''design,, & am saying that fom being a Mechanic/ fabricator most my life. I
It would be nice if the service people at these RV dealers knew anything about these hitches. They should be schooled on the products that they sell and service. When you buy a PullRite hitch from some where like, let’s say Camping World and they hook this hitch up for you. They have no clue that these adjustments need to be made.
Great video, I don't have the slider hitch but I have the Superlite #2600 in my short bed I really love that hitch this 67 years old man can take it out and put it in by myself.
I have a problem with the hitch latch and unlatching. I ran into a problem when I was out in a campsite when it was pouring rain, I had the hitch for two years starting my third season. I didn't get an owner manual from my Ford dealer when it bought the truck new. I had to pull the house plate off and, on the underside, I had to take scotchbrite to a plate that the actuator plate and lube that and the post that it pivot's on. The pivot point has a one way push on keeper on it. When the hitch is not in use, it is covered with tonto cover so it not out in the weather. The unlatching part of my problem is when I try to pull the yellow handle it will not move, I have to put my truck in reverse and slide the pin assemble back and then it will release. I would like any pointers and taking care of these problems. I also love the video about adjusting the carriage assembly, I didn't know it was adjustable or how to adjust it.
Hey Jim! So a couple quick pointers. 1. Apply some WD-40 periodically to the underside of the hitch plate to allow all of the components to move easily. This will prevent that lock lever from not rotating properly. Additionally, that push nut may have been a bit snug from the factory which could have caused this. 2. The un-hitching scenario that you are explaining is absolutely as expected. The tight fitting, rotary gear driven latch, provided by this hitch provides a very tight connection. With this tight connection comes the need to relieve any "pulling" pressure off of the jaw by backing into your trailer. This is most effective when the trailer tires are chocked as it immediately relieves any pressure on the rotary jaw. I appreciate your comments and hope that these suggestions help you along your way! Thanks, Nick Moreland
Two questions about my 4100 hitch: 1. What other points under the hitch top, or within it, have moving parts (e.g.: the lock handle, as well as the jaws) that need grease or WD-40? 2. Between October and May I don't use the hitch, but leave it in the back of my truck under the tonneau cover. The release handle remains fully extended the entire time, meaning its return spring is stretched out for eight months. Should I use a tool (e.g.: broom handle) to trip the locking mechanism so the jaws deploy and the release handle is pulled back into the hitch, so there's less stress on that spring? Thanks for this video--it's a winner!
I not sure if you still have that hitch being your comment was left a year ago... I do retract the pull handle after use... I grab tightly on the pull handle as close as you can where it protrudes from the top piece I trip the release mechanism with my finger and(SLOWLY LET THE SLIDE HANDLE SLIDE THROUGH YOUR HAND) by easing up...if you do it like that it won't pinch you... I do this all the time and have never had a problem...👊
Could one use the Specialist WD40 Water Resistant Silicone lubricant? We've always used that because it dries on the surface and doesn't attract dirt the way regular WD40 does. --- Thanks!! Installing an OE 2714 tonight after upgrading trucks. I've been using Traditional Series 4100 for the past nine years. GREAT PRODUCTS!!!
I would personally use that instead of reg WD,, as reg WD evaportes quick,, plus is hell on nylon ,teflon ,,plastic,, & rubber,, & will break down the molecular structure of these materials,, especily nylon. Was a Mechanic most my life,, & finally learned this a few years back . lol I will be personally using like ''Fluid film'',, which is Lanolin based,, & is my new snake oil. For grease,, Marine general purpose Synthetic ''blue stuff' for me. 😉 I
THANK YOU FOR A GREAT VIDEO ON MAINTENACE OF THE SLIDER HITCH. (FYI I TYPE IN ALL CAPS, NO YELLING LOL) HITCH HAS BEEN WORKING GREAT BUT, WHEN WE WENT TO HOOK UP ON SUNDAY WE HEARD THE LOCK SNAP SHUT AND MY WIFE SAID TO STAR TUG TEST, SHE YELLED STOP BECAUSE THE KING PIN WASN,T IN THE LOCK ? I MISSED IT BUT IT STILL SNAPED SHUT LIKE I WAS IN THERE. THIS HAS NEVER HAPPEN BEFORE. (WHAT DID I DO WRONG ???? THIS IS ONLY MY 4 TRIP OUT WITH THE RIG. HAS ANYBODY ELES HAD THIS HAPPEN WHERE IT SNAPED SHUT BUT YOUR KING PIN WASN,T IN THE LOCKED HEADS???? ALL COMMENTS WELCOMED DAVE
Hey Dave!! Not being there and looking things over in just speculating here but I'm going to take a guess anyway. I'm guessing that you were likely "inching" into the kingpin and stopped a bit prematurely. When this happens, the jaw is released(audible click) and pushes up against the side of the pin until the pin finishes its way into the jaw allowing the jaw to finish closing. By slowly creeping into the connection, the truck likely stopped by the pressure of the jaw pushing against it. Had you back into the trailer a bit more, it would have completed latching. Again, this is a guess but one that comes with the experience of doing the EXACT same thing... yelling wife and all!
NICK LOL YES WIFE YELLING. THANK YOU SO MUCH , GOING TO THE RV SHOW IN HERSHEY TO MORROW SO WILL TALK TO THE PULLRITE FOLKS THERE ALL SO. AND ABOUT MIANTTINANCE . THANK YOU AGAIN . LOL SORRY FOR ALL CAPITS TYPING @@nickthehitchguy7648
Good morning Nick, and Thank you . We met Scott at the RV show in Hershey Last Friday and he Helped us out with all my questions. Need to tighten up the Slider and not to slow down backing into the hitch. Love Pull Rite Auto Slide . Many Thanks 👍🙏 @@nickthehitchguy7648
You suggest cleaning top of hitch plate and possibly sanding to remove rust. Would you also recommend repainting with Rust-oleum paint to further protect?
Tiding that screw in the front to keep it still from sliding back and forth what do you do when you connect the RV to the truck Will the RV be able to turn left and right with that boat being tight
@NickTheHitchGuy I have developed rust on my the steel sliding rails. I have been able to clean up the rust with CLR, but want to coat it with Paste Wax to prevent future rusting while not in use. Does Paste Wax sound OK to prevent additional rust after cleaning?
Excellent! Thank you very much. I am a full time RVr. I'm starting to notice on the head rust building up on the scratches. Any suggestions to clean and coat it with for protection?
My pleasure! I would recommend cleaning the top of the hitch plate and possible even sand a bit of needed to remove the rust. Once all cleaned up, cover it with a dry graphite lubricant. I personally use SLIPPLATE graphite spray that comes in an aerosol can. It is applied just like spray paint.
@@nickthehitchguy7648 I also see rust on the vertical silver square tubes as well. I will order some of that coating now. I appreciate your advice. I look forward to more of your vids.
My arm has pulled in the out position and will not stay out. The inside went back to latch I cannot keep the handle in the outward position. What has gone wrong? I cannot hook up!
I just bought mine a few weeks ago. There's quite a bit of play between the lower Teflon and the glides. It makes a load enough banging sound after every turn. Basically if you stop the truck in a turn, rock it back and fourth it rocks the 5th wheel on the glides. Is there a way to tighten the upper and lower Teflon to the glides? There's roughly 1/16 - 1/8" play.
Hi Gabriel! I apologize your comment slipped through the cracks. The amount of clearance should be just over 1/16" and when adjusted, this clearance should not result in any noise. Now when in a turn, a direct stop, will result in some noise and a bump, but nothing to sweat.
I have the older model (3300) 16 K slider, is the adjustment procedure pretty much the same principle? When I purchased mine, white grease was recommended for the rails and I’ve continued to do so without issue, should I change to WD 40?
Hi William! These are low friction polymer wear plates that are integrated into the hitch. If lubricated regularly with WD-40, these should perform without any issues. Also, it is worth noting that there are a total of 6 pieces(2 plates on top, 2 plates on bottom and then 2 blocks in the middle) on most models. Could you send me a picture of the break and I'll get you taken care of? Nmoreland212@gmail.com
The RV dealers are quick sale wham bam get out the door..Sorry that such a kickass hitch reflects poorly because of them..they installed it 2014 3500 OEM tow package..then as they Finished the "Install" i use that word very loosely....i backed up hooked up by their direction and waved goodbyes..then quickly stopped me and "Oh here you Mr Eastman we forgot the "Capture Plate" as i went to step out..Oh don't worry Mr Eastman you don't really need it..a couple of us don't use it" hindsight being 20/20 and that grotesquse feel of dread creeped in...i couldn' get rid of that sense of something is wrong... 20mins away from home...it started to rain..this is when i let the Engine brake take over ..applied brakes and then it came to me ...i turned to my wife open my mouth to to say whats wrong..at that moment...BANG!!!..10,000 lbs 3500 lounges forward like as we just got rear-ended by a Hwy Tractor Trailer.. Wife screams and all that I said "F@#K!!! And knew immediately what it was.. I don't need to say what hit us...but the most important thing to mount and use 1000% is the "Capture Plate"...leave it bolted or even weld it to the Pin Box..NEVER EVER TOW YOUR TRAILER WITHOUT IT!!!
Curious why are you guys recommend WD-40 when it’s technically not a lubricant. Did you find that using lithium spray grease or others made it too slippery?
Hey Tim! Great question and one we get often in our tech support department. We found that WD-40 is the perfect cleanser and conditioner for the integrated polymer blocks. You see, lubrication needs are minimal due to the polymer vs steel friction points. We are mainly recommending WD-40 to keep things clean and free of dirt build up along with providing a slick surface. Lithium grease will work but you will have to incorporate a cleaning process into the maintenance. I hope this makes sense.
Actually! All current Superglides have a polymer material integrated into the hitch to MINIMIZE lubrication. We found that lubrication is still necessary to avoid premature wear.
Great video; very helpful. Do I need to worry about periodically tightening the bolts where the hitch connects to my truck bed? I don't have the pucks (2016 Ram 2500 CTD). Also, my yellow handle cover dry rotted and cracked in the AZ sun in just 4 years. Will Pull Rite replace that for me? Love the hitch, thank you.
Hi! Sorry I missed your comment! If you have to continually tighten the base rail bolts, I would be concerned whether the rails were adequately shimmed upon installation. You see, if they aren't shimmed, the vertical weight can distort the bed and essentially loosen the bolts due to the bed bending... would probably be good to follow up with Pullrite tech support or the installing dealer. As for the handle grip.. shoot me an email and I'll hook you up! NickM@pullrite.com
Sorry for missing your comment Joe! If lubricated properly, these low friction polymers should never need replaced. PullRie does recommend to replace them if the plates wear by 1/16" to a total thickness of 3/32".
Nick thank you for the informative video. I’ve had my 16k hitch since 2019, and have always used wd-40 like the instructions say, but are the slide tubes supposed to develop black wear marks from the polymer plates? It seems they are shedding material during the travel.
So just to double check, if I hook up to a trailer and take off from a stop light and it slams all the way to the rear and then hit the breaks and the trailer slams forward its the front bolt out of adjustment?
Hi Brian, thanks for the question. A little up and down play is designed into the product to ensure that the hitch slides easily. Once the forward stop is adjusted, this up and down play has no negative effect.