Push ACS3 Fork Coil Conversion - Reviewed 

So... I'm not in the business of selling bike components, and I have run the PUSH ACS3 in my 170 Lyrik, putting some fair amount of time on it, and I have some honest info that might be helpful for those interested in the conversion. First, for what I will speculate are liability reasons, PUSH states that this conversion is one way only, meaning they state and retailers state you can't go back to the OEM air spring because the coil will score the inside of the steerer tube, which in turn will cause an air spring seal to leak. WRONG! On that, I ran the ACS3 for 6 months, including many days in the bike park and actually reverted back to an air spring recently to increase my travel from 170 to to 180mm. During the conversion teardown back I saw no scoring inside the steerer tube, and many laps post reversion I have had zero air bleed down past the piston seal. In my opinion the reason PUSH states the "one way conversion" advisory is that it is possible that scoring could happen, I would imagine especially if someone doesn't lube the coil well upon install or fails to do recommended basic service, and PUSH does not want to be held liable should such damage occur. I also have a DH bike utilizing a Boxxer A1 Team coil with many, many days of bike park on it, and it has no scoring inside the steerer tube. This is in part because I am a stickler for doing proper fork service, and having run a Boxxer, I knew that buttering the coil (the whole length) is very important. PUSH doesn't emphasize this the way SRAM does in the service manual. If you run the ASC3, I would strongly suggest buttering the whole coil well with compatible grease, and you should have no problem going back to air spring over a reasonable period of usage. Next point is oil... You can go with PUSH recommended oil OR, and this will make going back to air spring a much easier process should you do so, just use RockShox recommended 0W-30. Why? If you use the PUSH recommended oil, and if you do as I did with the syringe I used to service both ways, and if you failed to completely clean out the syringe when servicing with the two different oils you will see the PUSH oil coagulate in the syringe like snot, meaning it is somewhat incompatible and it will take a lot more cleaning in the fork than necessary should you just stray from the OEM recommendation. AND, if I remember correctly, PUSH advises going with 20 ml of their oil in both legs. RockShox explicitly warns against going over 10 ml in the damper side or damage to the Charger damper could happen. Not sure who has it more right, but 10 ml on the damper side has worked fine in thousands and thousands of Lyriks, and so I'd personally stick with RS's recommendations. As for the spring side, 0W-30 is the same oil RS recommends for its coil Boxxers as well as its air-sprung newer forks, including the Lyrik, and at the end of the day all it does is "splash" AKA "bath" lube the coils, dust seals and bushings; it doesn't do any duty as a damping fluid, and it will work perfectly fine for an ACS3 conversion just as it works well for a Boxxer coil. If you have an RS fork its probably best to stick with the oil its bushings and o-rings have been "seasoned" with regardless (IMO). PUSH lower fork dust seals... Do know that getting your steerer tubes into the PUSH seals is a major, major pain in the ass, so much so that after struggling quite some time I damaged mine and went back to the SKF seals, which work perfectly well. One problem I ran into with the ACS3 is the red cap on the spring shaft that the lower end of the coil sits on. Mine cracked up and dispersed itself into the coil. I suspect it happened during a spring swap, the cap sticking to the bottom of the coil, pulling it off the spring shaft yet leaving it inside the tube off kilter as the coil was removed, and when installing the new coil the dispositioned red cap never seated properly and therefore cracked-up. I'm in the process of trying to obtain a new one from PUSH, and I suspect mine is not a unique occurrence. You will need to either buy from PUSH a chamfer-less socket to install the top cap, or you will need to grind the chamfer out of a regular socket (the chamfer is inside a regular socket, and it is the first mm from the socket lip which angles inward to where the actual contacting tooth of the socket begins), which is easy if you have a die grinder with a sanding disk or access to a belt sander. You could even modify a regular socket with a flat file and ten minutes of sweat equity. But do be advised that if you use a regular store bought, non-modified socket, which will have an inner chamfer, the top cap has such a low hex head that you will more than likely mar the hell out of it when installing the top cap. Trust me; I did it. Lastly, if you ride PNW do know that you can run the coil weight PUSH recommends and be perfectly happy, or even stiffer, but if you take the bike on a trip to a rockier place like Trestle Bike Park, CO you may well need to drop down a coil below recommendation or your hands and wrists will take a huge beating, which defeats the point of the sweetness running a coil. That's the benefit of an air-spring; it is a no cost, easily adjustable thing of relative beauty. I moved to Colorado from Seattle last summer and brought with me the "stiffer is more expert" mentality (because out there popping roots etc is the game ) and paid the price of constantly sore wrists after my relocation, only to eventually realize that in the PNW the trails are much kinder (not technically) in terms smaller hit, constant impacts than the rockier, and chattery bullet-proof hard pack of more arid, desert(y) riding of places like CO and NM, and maybe, just maybe I needed to soften my sag just a skosh.

If you bought a good fork like a fox factory 38 you wouldn't need to buy that sh!t

Ordered one for my Yari 🤙🏿🤙🏿🤙🏿

Thanks for covering this topic. I hadn't researched this much and now I want to try it - haha.

Hey guys, great video! I have a quick question: The improvement in fine bump sensitivity makes sense. What I'm curious about however, is how the ACS upgrade changes the fork's characteristics on really "pumpy" terrain. One thing I do love about air shocks is the progressive ramp and pop you get out of terrain (particularly on an EVIL). On older large travel coil forks, I remember them feeling almost "dead" in how well they soaked up every nuance of terrain. So yes, I'm curious how these behave on high speed, buffed trail where you're pumping features to send as many gaps as possible...? In other words, does the coil still offer a "reactive", progressive and poppy feel?

How much weight, the coil spring will add to the Fork ?

Well thanks for the input. I have a 2020 Enduro that came with the bottom tier fork internals! Also, my bike is already a tank, a spring shouldn’t be too noticeable. I’ve been on a 2014 Pike that I love, so I’m a little hesitant to go coil.

Can I buy this for my zeb 180mm. And what is the website that I can buy this upgrade. Looks awesome

what about those new air release channels on the new fox 36 ? it seems not really applicable, to my eyes, or at least dumb to convert it :D

Really authentic video guys 💪🏻

So if I wanted a coil fork, what are the options, this and the other kit flying around in the comments, then the bomber z1, MRP has a coil fork too right? And what else? Does ohlins has a coil fork? Any idea Wich one is the best without looking at the price tags? In case that the best "coil fork" is with a conversion, I'll have to buy an entire air fork or is there a way to buy the chassis separately? Are those coil conversions compatible with either a lyric or a Manitou mezzer pro? (Both better/stiffer chassis than the fox 36)

Did not know about this product. Air is an absolute no-buy for me. Thanks!

Will this fit lyrik select debonair 2020?

Any additional information on adjusting LSC/HSC on a 150mm Lyrik Ultimate when adding a ACS3 Fork Coil conversion kit?

They should make one for rockshox boxxer and fox 40/49

ACS3 - www.pushindustries.com/products/acs3-fork-coil-conversion-kit

Hello what kind of oil is recommended to be poured into the damper side and which into the spring side. I would be very grateful for the answer

Can you guys also a review of the Push HC97? There doesn't seem to be much info about that out there at all.

Is there noticeable noise? That was one of the things I did not like about coil. My FOX spring would bang against the stancion. The shrink wrap would wind its way down and the noise would get loud. I have a Lyric select plus. I want to put a charger 2.1 rc2 in it. Would you recommend the push over it?

is this compatible with the z1?

They ruin a forks resell so beware!

Is there a Fox 36 version of ACS3 with the black cap knob at the end instead of the grey one?

I'll take the Vorsprung Smashpot over the Push.... Adjustable HBO and cheaper.

1: 20 How do you fill the negative chamber?

Can you put a fox 36 kit on a Marzocchi Z1 fork?, because in theory are the same fork, rigth?

Number 1

The ability too tune just better for me with air

i challenge anyone to try one and go back to air .......

Push acs kit vs rc 2 damper or air spring upgrade for my yari?

That’s my bike

What are the cons of this coil upgrade?

will there be one for the new fox 38

Can you do this on a 2020 yari rc?

Great understanding of the product, AND you make the effort to clean the fork after the work is done, well done young fellow 👍

No oil then in fork ?

Me ajudem ai quero chega a 1k pra ter uma dessa meu sonho