I've already spent 3000 on tools and still have a Amazon cart for another 500.. just to get everything for HVAC. Overall I've spent $13,000 in the last year on tools and equipment..
I've already spent 3000 on tools and still have a Amazon cart for another 500.. just to get everything for HVAC. Overall I've spent $13,000 in the last year on tools and equipment ECT..
I've already spent 3000 on tools and still have a Amazon cart for another 500.. just to get everything for HVAC. Overall I've spent $13,000 in the last year on tools and equipment..
Been using the push fittings for years recommend not turn or twist fitting as it can wrinkle or unseat double o ring in fitting also marked line should touch end of fitting if not release and repush on as it is not in all the way if not up to the line . use inside outside reamer as well as cutting cooper will leave lip on tubing and damage o rings when pushed in and prevent complete insertion. Good job
I agree that you do a great job however in Maryland/Washington DC, we can’t use flexible gas connectors by code, also we generally install an anti -vibration canvas in the section between the plenum and evap coil especially in an area 6 inches or less. It would be easier and less time consuming. Definitely quieter. I have 42 years experience and tried the push connectors on ductless and experienced leaks also. I was very disappointed. Still have some on my truck ! I do however applaud you for helping many folks get an idea of our trade. Please continue to learn and grow . And take a tip from an old guy, buy some Carhartt pants with knee pads built in, pricey but do it now while you are still young. Martin Sharp
Awesome vid, thanks! Just a heads up, @12:20 you don't need the red anti-short bushing on MC cable; per NEC 330.40 fittings just need to be listed for MC and they'll take care of protecting the cable exiting the armor. Manufacturers include the bushings out of habit/old practices but they're only needed on AC, not MC. Also see NEMA bulletin 90.
These type of connectors are designs for high pressure. It’s a reality that having to get away from using open flame is slowly going away. This brings to a safer work enviroment. Also, this is a science that many don’t understand.
The pro fit pipe connectors are awesome. I used them to replaced a chiller evaporator on a laser fabricator and there was no clearance to braise without dismantling the whole section of machine, so the price of the fittings was cheap to the alternative
I work in refrigeration. Me personally am iffy on using these fittings for refrigerants, but I have seen them work. Years ago one of our techs due to running out of oxygen and acetylene, used one. 4 years later, no leaks. So I guess they do work, but question is longevity and consistency.
These are far more likely to leak than brazing. There is no replacement for brazing and soldering. I've already gone behind installers to remove these fittings and braze the connections. Same with zoom lock (pro press for refrigeration)
Love to see the comments of contractors asking how many installs you had, any call backs even thou their installs will leak after a year or so. They are putting the fear on regular people that don't want to spend the outrageous prices some of them charge. With the help of RU-vid, us DIY weekend contractors are saving thousands of dollars and there goes same for plumbing.
Plumbers also say shark bite are trash and leak and you shouldn’t use them. I’ve been using these for years and never an issue. Key is prep. Don’t use on dirty pipe.
I’m talking about the refrigeration ones ! We have removed nearly 100 fittings that have leaked . Within the first 2 years of being installed . My company does not install them , just had to repair a lot of those fittings from others . Hope you have better luck
@@mattmitchel8931 2 years seems about the norm for these fittings. Zoomlock too. I just replaced a 1-⅛ suction service valve on a Trane condenser because the bell was cut off and a press fitting was installed. It was only 3 months in. Installer left homeowner hanging. Trane denied their warranty because their IOM states make all refrigerant line connections using a filler material containing minimum of 5% silver content. Homeowner had to pay for valve, labor, and refrigerant. I've removed over 100 of these fittings because of leaks.
@@topher8634 100 for real seem like somone is exaggerating. I doubt there are that many installed across and entire state let alone the small area you service
yeah those connectors seem pretty cool.. there are two types of them when you order them.. one is removable and the other isn't.. I think they prefer you use the non removable ones with the higher pressure systems but its been a while since I looked into them.. never used them but seems easy
How many of the push fittings do you think would be used during a normal condenser and coil install? I would think you would need: 1) 2 for condenser low side given you need 1 to extend the existing copper line and 1 to go into the condenser 2) 3 for condenser liquid line given you need one before and after liquid line filter 3) 1 for evaporator coil high side. This might be 2 if the liquid line is short. 4) 1 for evaporator coil low side . This might be 2 if the suction line is short. Would you concur?
Wonder how it holds up when the run cap for the condenser motor quits on a budget unit with no hp cut out and the liquid line hits 450 psi. I am old school too.
On commercial units a refrigerant leak on a liquid line valve gets worse as the seals are refrigerated by the leak ; I am old school and do not use all this stuff , I braze !
Great video, I find in most service calls that I go to, the quick connects have leaks, on an average of 1 in 3 systems, and long-term are not a reliable solution for HVAC installations, no matter what the manufacturer says. maybe if your PSI is under 100. With new systems out there being a lot of heat pumps, they can go up to as much as 450-550 PSI in the winter in heat mode and break those quick connects easily! Plus anyone wanting a long-term install needs to braze, all these new conecters have not proven themselves 100% reliable yet.
im going to set these up in my home HVAC lab (yes I have one) and see how they do in heat mode where its not only pressure but the discharge temp on a heat pump run in 45-50f weather (yes we run our heat in that weather) is also pretty high
@@diyhvacguy +1 on staybrite8, when i was in the HVAC business alot of us used it... wont oxidize if you keep your pipes from getting too hot.. I have joints out there that are close to 20 years no leaks.. we didnt use it on big commercial installs.. it really doesnt work well on anything above an inch.. our cutoff as a company was up to 1 inch.. to a 7/8 line with staybrite but not a 1 inch.. most DIYers wont find anything that big unless they are working on big homes.. but even then not likely..
The Zoomlock looks like a better way to avoid brazing than the crimper. My concern with the crimper is that whoever follows you has zero slack to work with. A brazed piece doesn't need to be cut, and the Zoomlock appears the same. Thanks for making these videos!
Was wondering if you insulated any of the duct work after your install.. I would think that would need to happen to get any efficiency and to keep your duct work from sweating.
Did you use the quick fittings on the other end where it connects to the condenser or did you braze? Also i didn't see a link for the 3/8 adapter extension you used on the evaporator side.
I have used these for reclamation on older R22 condenser units that can be pumped down and lines cut and king valve shut. I will attach a smaller pipe with a Schraeder valve to the opposite side and I’m in business. They handle a vacuum to remove refrigerant and nice to be reused over and over again. I have seen some cut off the bell on the condenser unit line and install these. But plastic outdoors which is inside these connectors… I have my doubts with holding up to seasonal conditions of extreme temperatures. And indoors?? Well…. It’s nice to not use a torch which is safe but these have a 5yr warranty and I’m sure the plastic will break down even indoors. Brazen is still the way to go. I’m assuming you brazed the outdoor connections??
Thank you, I hav enjoyed and learned from your videos! I was wondering if argon /CO2 gas instead of nitrogen can be used to pressure test the line set.
Looks nice. For me I will let those fittings be in use for a while before considering them. It is a sediment leg and not a drip leg. (A sediment leg has gas change directions off the branch like you have. A drip let is horizontal with the branch down with the cap) Tomato tomAto I suppose 👍
Would you suggest using the Pro-Fit connector on the air condenser in order to reattach the refrigeration lines? My house is older and the previous owner installed the new unit , a Goodman, on top of my septic tank. The septic system is failing and I’m positive that I will have to disconnect it. The fact that they would be exposed to outdoors is the reason for my question.
Wondering if you have tried SmartLock? It is not like Zoomlock Push Fittings. Twisting of nuts on each end of SmartLock is required to compress metal on metal to seal the connection.
I'm not sure what everyone makes a big about brazing, I just solder with propane, heck the high pressure line is only in the 400psi range. Soldering doesn't crystallize the lines either
I'm sorry, but what you have done is to create a possible 4 additional leak points. If properly brazed or soldered, there is no chance of any leaks. When you drive off from the job, you don't have to worry about it.
@@taylorhackney9275 I know you're sorry because a perfectly sealed system does exist if it's performed by a skilled tradesman, so don't try to sound like a HVAC expert because it's obvious you can't braze or solder.
@badger305 Nothing is 100% perfectly sealed. Even perfect brazes and solders leak at a microscopic level. It will never be an issue for the life of a unit and many years after that is what they are referring too. That's a literal fact and taught in schools, even mentioned by AC Service Tech and by Bryan Orr. Now I agree with you though, Brazing is tried and true and the best method
I don't see a flexible duct connection on your sheet metal work. Are you going to leave your overflow for the condensate aing up & open? Good demo on line set fittings.
I have seen these but will they stand the test of time. I am 68 and still work but planning out my retirement date I will continue to braze and flare fittings.
Hello, I love your videos. I have learned a lot. How is zoomlock connection you made holding up? Did you experience any issues? I plan to use quick connect - pro-fit for my install. I plan to install MrCool Universal heatpump 4-ton unit. I cannot use their quick connects because I plan to reuse my existing copper lines.
Using a screen gasket tool as a bead roller is a pretty good idea!!! I am curious as to why you sealed off the old 2 or 4 inch (I couldn't tell by just watching the video) filter slot, and put in a 1 inch filter slot. I would have thought a thicker filter was better.
On a new Goodman aren't the connections too close together on the condenser to use the push on connector, also if you cut off the factory connectors will the tubing be long enough? Looks like only 3/4" will be left.
Water plumbing shark bite couplers only have to deal with about 50 PSI or 3 Bars. Refrigerant lines can routinely work at 160 PSI or 11Bars, so I hope Pro-fits can withstand those pressures even with vibration from motors
Water pressure is considered low in some areas at 60 psi.. I would say they are good for well over 200 just to deal with different conditions. Water hammer and such
Unfortunately the stub on the outside isn’t quite long enough so I Staybrite 8 soldered that joint. Supposedly they are coming out with condensers that have a real long stub so we will see :)
Hey I just found your channel. I've been interested in HVAC ever since my compressor died one HOT summer afternoon. I asked the guy to install a sight glass and he laughed at me, saying no residential customer has ever asked for that, have you ever installed one in a home? Thanks for the great videos and sharing the TONS of knowledge you have!!
@@tonyrhoton6613 ... they had their place in R-12 and R-22 systems. Back before I retired that was always my first check on a system. That and checking temp drop and a look at air filters. 90% of my work (years ago) was a visual check.... long before I broke out the gauges.
I install 2 on every system I do. One @ the condenser and one at the air handler. Not just a sight glass but combo glass/moisture indicator. Also guage ports. Yes you can ensure a full column of liquid to the expansion device by checking and adjusting subcool, and I do it anyway, but there is something satisfying to seeing it in action.
Should go over fan wires and fan speed. I've ran into several units that had fan speed wrong. Cool should be high, black. Heat should be medium high. Some units have different colors for fan speed!
@@diyhvacguy we bought an old house and had to remodel it to where access to the horizontal furnace was on the other side. I think I’ve got it handled. I’ve got three bids for a complete new system. I’ve learned a lot watching your RU-vid channel. I’m actually having the HVAC company install the unit based on the size that you suggested.
Great video. Do you have any long term opinions on these push fittings for HVAC? How many jobs have you utilized these products on? Any callbacks? Would have been neat to see a bubble leak check after the install and maybe even the vacuum reading before use.
I used one a couple years ago,on a install in a tight area on a mobile home where i didnt want to risk using my torch and its held up so far. However there super expensive and i know 100% I can trust a braze joint,but under the right circumstances I would use one again. I guess they would be good for a homeowner installing there own system who doesnt have the tool or know how.
Many years ago. (1973 ) I kept an18” x 5/8”, WITH 2 SPECIAL FITTINGS,but you needed,a propane torch,to SET,the ADHESIVE in those fittings, which,were like slip couplings, WHY ? HUSSMANN uses ALUMINIUM EVAPS IN CASES, WHEN SOMEONE DROPS A DECKPAN,DAMAGING THE TUBING,, THATS WHY THOSE WERE FOR,, 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@cardsfan-ym1bj good to know. A little pricey however $160 or so added to the install is quite a bit cheaper than buying the actual press tool or purchasing a torch setup if you do not currently own one. The only reasonable alternative I see for a DIYer would be purchasing one of the manual press tools.
Don’t do it…all the new stuff is coming out with aluminum coils and piping….they’re making them so cheap and low quality I’m betting they won’t even get 5 years out of them before they start leaking all over the lines….the new type Freon isn’t as efficient…they’re “banning” it from being made in the US but it’s not illegal ..because duponts parent ran out and suddenly at the same time they decided that it was bad…my problem with the whole climate hoax is they’re labeling these gases like propane butane methane etc as ozone depleting….u can find all their charts etc online…on down the list is also carbon dioxide, oxygen, and all the gases they’re labeling the same…they plan to have all these banned in the US by 2035….what happens when they ban co2 and oxygen in a country? Everyone who is on o2 won’t be able to get it anymore….hvac is helping bring in this lunacy by perpetuating this belief that Freon is man made and needs to be banned….when u look what r22 is made of…methane butane and a bit of fluorine and chlorine to make the pressure a bit higher the r290 does…the d op in replacement for r22….r290 is propane….
I don’t think these have been on the market that long for HVAC. It would be interesting to see a longer track record. Have you tried testing to 500 lbs with nitrogen? The molecule is smaller. I’ve had some automotive AC’s that would leak under a nitrogen test put be fine with refrigerant.
I’ll do a video soon pressure testing it! Stay tuned! Hvacknowitall did a pressure test at 500psi and it held for over a week. Check out his video on them. Cheers
@@rodgraff1782 He said several years, not a few years. I have used them on a no flame job site, the first time I used it was 2 years ago, no issues and no leaks. Mind you, it is outside in the elements with vibration, I've had some guys brazing fail sooner than that under those conditions
@@cesarmoore7996 That’s great that those fittings are working out for you. If you have seen brazes that fail, don’t blame the process, blame the brazer
How much should it cost to replace a furnace and/or ac unit?. I’ve gotten a lot of different prices, and thx for these awesome videos bro, I love how detailed you are and how you explain to the non hvac ppl like me , keep up the great job and god bless
🙏🏻 in general, a full ac and furnace system is about 7-8k just for the furnace if its 3-4K depending on efficiency level. Maybe that will give you a ballpark. Cheers
@@diyhvacguy Thanks for your response! I have seen 1/4 and 3/8 connectors, and some reducers - but none the size of that tiny cap tube going to the filter/drier. Maybe it's 1/8, maybe less? How small do these connectors go? Do you know the OLd sizes of compressor tubes? My other concern is those tubes fit inside each other. Would I require a reducer fitting, or do i cut off the 'flares'? I was searching for videos or someone using these push connect fittings on a refrigerator - but did not find any. Have you seen any such videos, or instructions anywhere, describing how use these, or other types, of solderless fitting on a fridge compressor? Thank you!
I’m sure I missed it, so please remind me why the piston must be replaced with the one in the bag attached to the outside condenser? Why wouldn’t the manufacturer match it up at the factory? Great content. Thanks.
Because the evaporator coil can be used for a range of system sizes. So this coil was a 2.5-3 ton coil. So the piston was maybe for a 2.5 ton, when the condenser is a 3 ton, so the piston that comes with the condenser is always the one that should be used. Hopefully that makes sense 👍🏼
Oops sorry for jumping on the question, couldn't resist. The coil has a metering device to get you close. They don't know what condener you are using. The condenser knows what it needs to get a balance of flow despite the coil you pick. A TXV will give flow based on real conditions.
For stainless instrument tubing (10,000 psi rating) I have used double ferrule connectors. These fittings do not require any kind of flare. Obviously you don’t want to mix stainless and copper, but I wonder if someone makes something similar out of brass for HVAC lines. I have also seen fittings similar to vinegar ProPress, but for HVAC systems.
Probably shark bite. But it just depends on their comfort level. If they have soldered water pipe and are familiar with the technique then I say Staybrite 8
Do you pull a vacuum and then weigh in a refrigerant charge? Or do you hire an HVAC contractor to do that and start up the system? HAve any trouble getting someone to do that for you?
The refrigerant is all contained to the condensing unit when you purchase it. So after you pull the vacuum, you upped the two king valves which releases the refrigerant into the whole system. They have enough refrigerant for a lineset that’s about 20 ft or shorter. If you need some help with an install, feel free to email me at diyhvacguy@gmail.com
