This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ru-vid.comUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
Thank you very much. Most helpful and very clear. I'm an expat living in rural northern Việt Nam and have just recently started keeping bees. There's no such thing as pre-made kits here. We build from scratch, so your jig idea is going to save a ton of time and energy for lots of folks. Thanks again. Cheers
Been a beekeeper for 40 years and have always assembled individually. Too cheap to buy a frame jig. Now I am making one like yours, so simple and thank you for showing how to make one. Came to your channel first because of sawing timber and saw you are a beekeeper also.
I love watching your beekeeping videos! They are so soothing and clearly demonstrate God's master handiwork. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. You are much appreciated!
I,am so glad I found your video as a new bee keeper 10 days or so it took me ages to biuld 20 frames you have just made my next 20 frames ao much easier to do many thanks
At first I wondered where the heck is this guy going. My congratulations. That is such a good plan and works well. I presume you insert wire in some of them for spinning strength. Struggled with this task for many years. Thanks so much.
If you take your stanly knife and just cut 2 vertical cuts on 2 corner of your cardboard box , You can... .....instead of taking wooden peaces out of box for 10 minutes, ... ,... dismantle the box in 5 sec. 😂😂😂🤔 ... time savings Tip. Lol. Thanks for sharing ! Very good jig !!! ...like simplicity and efficiency.
I like it. And just put the dimensions on the work bench in the shop. I'm going to be ready going into my 2nd year. I I've built 6 hives this year and hope to add more in the coming year. This will be a huge time saver. Thanks for the post.
That's a great idea, simple yet very functional, well done! A respectful tip about not mixing IDs and ODs though. I think I can see how the first iteration got a bit mixed up. I appreciate it's not critical, but many people don't have any real construction experience, and it's the Inside Diameter of the outer box and the Outside Diameter of the inner box that will determine the function. How thick the material is then doesn't matter, and it could be anything they have laying around.
I have the hives for 12 frames on brood chamber. But the suppers are same size and only 10 fat frames which for sure make more honey than 12 frames So make the legs wider Is not a joke. It works well
Just finished using this jig, and am very pleased. Just two moving parts! I used scrap wood, and made my jig to do 8 frames at a time. With all the figuring and finding the right wood, it took more than 30 minutes, but still worth it. some of the extra time was making the effort to get both boxes squared. I get my frames from Dadant, and I was assembling medium frames. I used wood that was 4 1/2" wide, so the jig would also work well with shallow frames, but might be wobbly for deep frames. I recommend getting your length and width measurements for your boxes with frame parts in hand just to make sure the boxes will work with your equipment.
@@hopeholben4979 I decided to not include measurements because I used "salvaged" wood of different thicknesses (some 5/8", some 3/4"). So, it seems best to just give the outer dimensions of the inner box, and you can size the outer box depending on the thickness of wood you have available. The outer length of the inner box should be no more than 16 7/8", and the inner length of the outer box should be just enough larger to accommodate two thicknesses of the uprights with scant play. The outer width of the inner box is less critical, since it can be fairly loose and still hold the uprights in place; I used 10 13/16", and less would also work. That's a lot of "outers" and "innners", but I hope it helps.
Great video I’m definitely building this today. If you like the idea of the small cell size, I do believe it’s to make a smaller bee. If you just incorporated the foundation-less frames into your brood boxes and not your honey boxes you will get smaller bees and still be able to spin honey frames without any trouble.
the open ended frame side is named after the cut. dado-------I really like your method, and it makes sure ten frames will fit, even with a weak hive you might put less in an upper.
Cell size is determined by latitude. As you go north the natural cell size increases. so Dee is in an area of 4.9 where as langstroth was further north so the size they saw was 5.2. I let bees do their own thing in the brood chamber and put foundation in the honey box were cell size is not important but blow out strength is. On the point of contamination it is not what you put in the hive that is the serious concentration but what the girls are bring in. This is important in the brood box so I have a faster rotation in the brood box but not in the honey box. The more agra bis in your area the faster your rotation as well. A a stock producer it is not as critical because to the rate of frame turn over 4 to 12 frames a year anyway. Being in a high agra biz area I aim for a 4 year turnover on brood frames. If your area is free of aga biz than you can go far longer.
Thanks for the information. I hope to order these soon. I hope that they come in other sizes. I'm sure they do. I've built the longhouse beehives. Wish me luck. I hope to catch a swarm this spring. ;-D
Excellent video - super helpful. Love your frame jig. Thanks for the dimensions, building one! Hope you have a great bee year. Dave, in Alberta, Canada
For a nail gun, check out the "WORX Nitro 20V Cordless 18 Gauge Nail" its an All In One. You can pick them up for less than $150 and you wont regret it!! Its not a super high end gun but for things like this and other random quick projects ware a nail gun would make it so much easier it is well worth. I can get 60-100 shots on one battery depending on nail lenth and depth setting.
No need to make 2 boxes just nail the 2 sides of the inner box to the outer box, will have to be cut a bit longer obviously but you save some wood. Good idea though
Your voice and accent remind me of a gentleman by the name of Norman Blake from Rising Fawn, Georgia. You must be a Georgia native, if I'm not mistaken. Anyway, thanks for sharing your assembly contraption. I'm working with the Layens system of frames, so it's a slightly different set up. Thanks. Bob ( a Norman and Nancy fan in Montana)
To prevent the top bar frame from coming undone under beehive tool pressure when removing, how about wrapping a stainless steel thin wire around that top bar and bottom bar then twist ends of wire together... A strong fishing line would also work, but I don't know if the bees could eventually chew through it and break the fishing line.
I got some unassembled frames and found out they won't fit the longhouse hive I made from a pipe crate. Outside dimensions 2 ft x 9.5 ft. I cut 2 out and used the middle piece for the two ends. I was proud of them but now I'm splicing them together- 3 makes 2 frames 20 7/8 wide but not changing the deep frame, i figure the bees will fill it in to the depth they want. I think I'll start making my own after this group.
EDITED (fixed): I made a jig for deeep frames using 1x8 pine lumber for Mann Lake frames. Outer box assembled: 19 3/8" long x 15 5/16" wide x 7 3/16" high : Cut Measurements: Ends 15 5/16" x 7 3/16. Lengths 17 7/8" x 7 3/16". Inner box assembled: 17" long x 13 5/8" wide x 7 3/16" high : Cut Measurements: Ends 13 5/8" x 7 3/16 Lengths 15 1/2 x 7 3/16..
I don't use foundation for brood boxes, the comb is lighter and the bees can draw the comb to suit their colony. I use foundation for honey supers though. But for your half-height frames, why even use foundation? Good jig though. We use small pins in the side bars for the top bar only, so it doesn't pull off when lifting a heavy langstroth frame.
What Frame kit did you order and plastic foundation you ordered from Mann Lake? Great video. I am going to build this jib ASAP. Is there a Hive Box specific for these frames also? Thanks....
Hint: when I make boxes, I glue first (at the perfect 90 degree angle), and then let the glue fully set before I re-inforce with screws. This assures that the 90 degree angle isn't altered by handling/screwing.
@@KayAteChef If the glue hasn't set yet, using screws can pull the box pieces out of the 90 degree angle. I actually have saved a particular bee box (that I know is a true 90 degrees AND sits flat) that I use as a jig in the process of assembling new boxes. I clamp a long side of this box to the workbench, and then I glue two sides of the new box to each other (no screws yet) and place them perfectly aligned alongside the jig box, maybe with long clamp bars if necessary, and let the glue fully dry. (I put Saran Wrap under one of the pieces to prevent gluing it to the workbench.) After the glue is fully hard, I add on the other two sides with glue and let the whole assembly harden next to the jig box. Later I apply the screws. Yes, this is a slow process. If I had to assemble 100 boxes in a short time, maybe I wouldn't be so careful. But in warm weather I can get one box a day finished this way (while I do other things, of course), and that is ok with me.
Great job!! I have a question, do you mill the lumber for your boxes? If so, would make a very interesting video from start to finish? Keep up the good work!! Thanks for the great video!! Phillip Hall
I built this with your measurements and it is way too big by almost 3/8 of an inch. The outside box needs to be 1/8 to 3/16 smaller and the inside needs to be about 1/16 or maybe a little over 1/16 larger
Were can i buy some of that real honey at .because the one they sell at shoprite and stop and shop it really fake as hell with expiration dates and all saids 100 percent real but on the back got all these big words of chemical they added 😕
