Man Franklin, that's some good stuff. I made my wedgies on my CNC but I do love Dave Gatton's stuff also. Great work on the other video of making the jig for gluing the circles. Think I need to make one...
I've been thinking about making a sled myself... I'm new to turning but I'm thinking ahead to when I'm good enough to try segments.... This makes so much since using your technique, thanks for sharing....
There is a fundamental difference between this design of a wedgie sled and the original with two fences. With the original you are always registering the cut to the same side of the stock; therefore, the two sides do not have to be dead parallel. With this design, you're using both sides of the stock for registration; therefore the two sides do have to be dead parallel. I know that is not insurmountable but it does introduce another possible error.
Good observation, and totally correct. I do, however, make sure my stock has parallel sides - a well set up table saw makes that a snap. Thanks for watching!
What is the sq item on the tablesaw between the blade & the front of the saw?? Is that a stop that determines the length of the segments??? If so can you give some directions on making one?? This is my first attempt at a segmented bowl, very novice!!
Go on Pinterest and search for segmented bowl calculator. That will give you an idea of the relationship between the diameter of the ring and the length of the segments.
Purchase a "flush trim bit.". They are foolproof. There's many vids on RU-vid on how to use one. Don't let things like this stop you from projects like this. You don't have to have a table mounted router like I do, any router will work, even a small trim router.
I didn't, but I saw one in another RU-vid video, and decided it was a great idea. Turns out it was. I used a piece of 3/4 plywood glued onto a piece of a 2" thick pressboard door. The rings are in 1" increments.
1. does it make a difference which end is the saw blade end, wide part or narrow part of the template. 2. could you not just use one side of the template and rotate the piece to be cut? (mark each side of the piece to be cut, A and B, first cut A side up, 2nd cut B side up)?
The end you use wouldn't make a difference, it's just personal preference. Theoretically, you could just use one side. However, that would depend on perfect placement of the wedge exactly perpendicular to the blade. If you are off .003", multiply that by the number of segments, and you could be way off by the time you get everything cut. By using both sides of the wedge, it's self-correcting. I'm not a math major, but I think just flipping the wood on the same side of the wedge wouldn't correct. Might even amplify the error? Maybe someone smarter than me would know the answer to that.
IMPORTANT: Cutting on a table saw on the back side of a fence is dangerous. As the strip gets shorter the more it gets. I know it sounds like a good idea but it is not. There are several ways to make a Wedgie sled that is safe. As the inventor of the system and producer of the Segmentology videos, I have more experience at it than anyone on the planet. The table saw is not your friend. It will bite you bad. Jerry Bennett
Mr. Bennett, first let me thank you for your HUGE contribution to the woodworking community. I discovered turning fairly recently, but segmented turning is what gives me the most pleasure. I agree that cutting on the back side of a fence is not ideal, and can be disastrous. But most of us change the methods we use as we gain experience. For instance, most professional woodworkers take the cumbersome blade guards off of their table saw. I don't believe this is done out of ignorance, but done with knowledge of how wood is interacting with the blade. Likewise, I take appropriate precautions when I'm cutting segments, ensuring that I have a solid grip on the work piece, and I never force the wood through the blade. All that being said, I have since discovered that making the sled is so easy and fast, and since they can be relatively small, I'm just going to make separate sleds for each wedge angle, permanently affixing the fences, and using the fence methodology you suggest. Thank you so much for watching my video. I am truly honored you took the time to comment and share you knowledge with me and others that may read this.
Sorry, but as a new segmenter I don't understand the warning about "cutting on the back side of the fence." Please explain to a novice. I want to be safe!
@@randysmith4344 A very general rule is that a work piece should be supported as well as possible when introduced to a moving blade, sanding belt, etc. When you put a work piece on the back side of a guide, that work piece will want to pull away from the guide. The only thing holding it to the guide is the pressure you're putting on it with you hands. This greatly increases the chances of an accident. I'm going to make another sled soon that will take care of this problem. Stay tuned!
Thank you. I get it now. When Mr Bennett said "fence" my mind immediately went to the table saw fence and I just couldn't understand what was being said. Now i do. Thanks very much and thanks for the great video.
