@@BigDipper79 Look at the opening still to see the "C" in the knuckle. Next watch when the post is placed under the stud to see that the "tough-to-remove" reversed bolt is already out.
I actually treid that trick once when removing a ball join off my old crv. I literally used the car jack directly under the ball joing stem. The joint was so seized that it lifted the car wile not bulging. When I discovered the ball joint removal tool, I had to use my body weight to get a breacker bar to breack it aprat. When it did it was a very very deep and lound thump. Damn thing was a session of planet fitness.
@@grossmeister1181 i wish I could learn that the easy way. First time I used it I also removed the other balljoint but I fucked up, the lever side was pointing forward, and it shot out 20 yards out from the driveway to the road.
I wish my lower balls joints were bolted in instead of squeeze pressed in! 3 hour, each side, difference in replacing them when bolted in! Thanks for the video!
I have been fighting with a lower control arm ball joint since friday, i have heating it and sprayed it countless times, but still have some tricks under the sleeve.
Or not… this was what my mechanic did on my M5… a standard garage driving home and the whole wheel and hub fell off causing a lot of damage! Hitting it a lot of times with a hammer and occasionally missing caused a crack!! I spend £800 for the repair and 3 weeks later I got my car back and it hummed as it was replaced with a part worn hub! Since that year! I learnt and keep learning to fix my own car now! And I’ve not failed an MOT since! 🤣
You are replacing the ball joint right. Why are you so concerned about damaging the threads. The strut is holding the arm down. So wouldn’t it be better to just hit the ball joint to release it from the arm. I’ve been doing this for decades and never damaged an arm or the knuckle.
Lol. Standard procedure for a mechanic to bash the control arm to shock the ball joint to pop out. You don’t need a press. You can also use a ball joint separation tool. Which are cheap but ruin the rubber dust boot 95% of the time. But if you’re replacing them. Who cares. Still have to remove the CV or the ball joint won’t clear on its way out though cuz.
Bro where the fuck are these places that don’t have any salt or rock chips or any dirt or anything. That car literally just looks dusty. Where’s the rust or oxygenation of the metal??? Something? A scratch anywhere please.
If you service a lot of the same vehicle (or as you go you make more of the same) you can take the nuts from these joints and weld a bar of steel to the end. Once you thread that on to the end, you can use it to hammer on so you don't have to waste time hammering on the arm. One hit slightly on the edge unseats the thing.
I've always wondered every time I see someone changing a ball joint if you hit metal with something like a hammer especially a sledgehammer you're causing stress fractures in the metal
@@opelservicekyiv it’s all good , I personally do it while a car is on jack stands, but I would’ve just put some lube on the ball joints also pitman arm pullers are good if you don’t want to damage aluminum control arms
Господи, сколько нытиков, постоянно все шаровые снимаю молотком, без проблем, ещё ничего ни треснуло, ни лопнуло, пишут про алюминиевые, на видео что алюминий что бы это писать?
кто ж смазывает посадочные место. не закрутишь гайку, шток будет крутиться. такие вещи ставяться на сухую и снимаются съёмниками, а не как мы привыкли долбить молотком.
