Thanks for this videoTony! Just took delivery of my pre-owned 2022 Mach1 HP with less than 6000 Miles on it. Bought from a Ford dealer in province of Nova Scotia, and delivered today in Quebec. As expected, the 15 Amp mini fuse was blown, and the wiring right next to the connector was frayed. I went ahead and used several layers of electrical tape, then cotton tape, then two tie wraps to keep the wire away from the sharp chassis edges.
I just had this exact problem occur on my 2020 S550 2 days ago. Your video saved me a trip to the dealer. Awesome video!! All fixed now for the princely sum of $2.92 for a pack of 5 fuses. You're right about the plug being a pain to get to... man, what a poorly designed layout. Took me longer to put the plug back in than to fix everything else!
Hey Tony, enjoy your break. Some guys are actually installing door edge molding on the frame, where the harness rubs. I’m going to look at mine this weekend. Take care!
Thank you for the tip and I found if I bent the bracket slightly and used a ZIP tie to secure it to itself there is room. Ford has had this issue for years.
Another great video Tony! I got a great exhaust shop near me to do my resonator delete and Steeda H pipe install and so far so good. Enjoy your break and looking forward to more videos when you get back.
I got the exhaust mode not available message a while after installing x pipe. I ended up buying the roush axle back non active mufflers, and removed the actuators. Still got the message and it would only run in normal exhaust mode which was fine as I had different mufflers. I read somewhere to keep actuators plugged in so I bought the AE bracket and mounted the actuators on the car and plugged them in. Still got the message so I bought a forscan tool and deleted the active exhaust option. Sweet. All is good! Fast forward a couple years. I just got long tube headers installed. The cold starts are extreme and waking the dead. So I added the exhaust option back to the car in hopes to put the stock active mufflers back on for a quiet mode start. I can see the actuators move but then shortly after they go back to normal position and the message shows up saying exhaust mode not available. It’s not the fuse. Wondering what the next step is… and if you had any input. sorry long winded story!
I'm not sure on this one. I have heard of bad actuators and you may have one binding up? If your harness is good, you are not blowing fuses, and the software is good there's not much left to the system. I would bench test both of them. Best of luck and keep me posted.
So what I took from this is useful… and creates ideas for mischief. If you put the car in track mode and pull the fuse….. who is going to post the first track mode cold start? 😈
What you state is true, factory build quality is hit to miss after 02/20. My GT/CS (Oxford white, 08/20 build) was perfect interior and body wise, had the wire rub issue, as you state. My 12/20 build 401a (Shadow black) is literally falling apart interior/body wise (headliner, Recaro leather, etc....Drivetrain is perfect.
Sorry to hear this and I'm not sure this is a build issue as much as a design/cheap out on parts manufacturing issue. If there was a left and right valve both pointing forward this would not be a problem. That would cost a couple of dollars per car, times the number of cars built, and so we have what we have... Build issues are there for sure. There are cars missing lug nuts, panels mis-aligned on plenty of cars, badges off center, but we didn't buy a boring Toyota Corolla so this is something we all have to live with.
I am sir. An American driving 3000 Kilometers (whatever that equals) in Italy without being able to read or understand Italian will be a future video that should be worth watching! ;)
Just as a point of order, and details, I took my car (2019 Ecoboost Premium) to the dealer with this issue. They wanted $1,600 to fix it. They were going to swap out the actuators. I told them what can be done to fix, but insisted this was "the fix"
Hopefully you saw this prior to paying them that kind of $$$. The harness can wear through and it is better to get a new one at that point but it's just two quick disconnects. The harness itself is less than $100
@@TonysFordsandMustangs I did! I did not pay them, and declined. I actually told them what the fix was if they could look at it beforehand, and gave them the TSB for the known issue. Put less than 8k miles on the car. I'm not super car savvy, but smart enough. Have the fuses, so simple enough fix then is general silicon and then some gorilla tape around the wires to insulate after the silicon dries. Then, zip tie it away from frame. Thanks again!
Mine was a broken wire on the passenger side. I sent my local dealership, the codes, and the part number for the harness they had me in and out in no time.
It's always a broken wire on the passenger side. The driver side valve faces front away from the frame. The passenger side faces rear towards the frame. Hopefully they made sure you had enough clearance so it won't happen again.
Great video I definitely was on right track but this definitely confirms my issue, I also installed an xpipe on my gt and the harness on the passenger side did I fact rub. I repaired it and put a chunk of heater hose that I split open and covered the harness, also I had dealership hammer back the chunk of metal that the plug rubs on when they did recall for the harness but up further. So it's 2.5y later and my car is running and it's opening/closing over and over, then I take a long drive and the whole way that fuckin screen popped up every 2m I swear I was going to snap lol. Anyway I'm going to definitely get under it tomorrow and recheck my harness make sure it hasn't rubbed thru, I did notice the dash warning would pop up mostly when I accelerate or decelerate do hoping that's all it'll be.
It certainly sounds like that's the issue but it it normally blows the fuse so that has me a bit confused. I'm thinking maybe the harness on your car has almost worn through and is making contact intermittingly? Best of luck and thanks for the kind words and let me know once you have it squared away.
This explains why when people install the x or h pipe and causes an issue with the active exhaust, there isn’t enough wiggle room to simply take off the resonator and install the replacement pipe. Bad design by ford, would installing the x pipe, and causing the issue, would that void any warranty? I would think no
Ford should cover it. It's a known issue. If they don't the harness is cheap and not all that difficult to replace if it wore through. My car was OEM. It's not the greatest design. A second Part # for the actuator on the passenger side that would face forward would correct this.
I put the Mach1 exhaust on my 22 GT and started popping fuses at full throttle, put my old solenoids on worked good til my passenger side wire rubbed in half, I thought I fixed the wires, and checked fuse but my active exhaust still kicking a fault
I have had people report stuck valves in the comments section. I would look for a loose connection or a burnt wire first if I were you as the wire harness did short out on you a couple of times.
Have a good break Tony. I ordered my M1 end of April and its looks doubtful that it will arrive until next year. Is 23 just a carry-over or will Ford be making any slight changes?
Tony I’m currently having the same issue with my 2022 ford mustang gt, I tired everything, replaced the fuse, put tape on the passenger side and still having the same issues. Any recommendations I should do ?? I was thinking buying a replacement wire jumper For active exhaust
@@sikeflower4143 if the fuse is blowing out there is a short in the harness. Ford does sell the harness. It’s sounds like it’s rubbing and I would tie it up so it wouldn’t happen again. Best of luck and let me know how it goes.
I added a MBRP RACE exhaust with out realizing the active exhuast chip was removed. How can I I stall a exhaust calibration to my none active exhaust mode lol
Tony I just have to say I love your channel. I got a warning on the cluster that said something to the effect that a sensor was blocked for my collision avoidance but then it went away. But on my Ford app it said this. The surface of the radar in the grille is dirty or the sensor is detecting an obstruction. I've looked but can't find anything to clean. Do you know where the sensor is located?
Thanks for the kind words Doug! there only two things that could trigger that are the camera, (top center windshield) or grill sensor which is actually center almost at ground level. I can't find a picture of the Mustang but this might help you narrow it down a bit. www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=6854&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G2002498&ProcUid=G2002943&userMarket=usa&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web
So goes between quiet and normal. That's it so took to ford, they couldn't figure out so replaced whole exhaust still nothing beyond normal. I see valves move but sound still same. Any ideas ?
@@daveestrien1945 not sure why they would replace the exhaust. The only thing that changes the note is the valves. Did they replace those? It sounds like a stuck or binding valve.
@@TonysFordsandMustangs So I tried the fix and although the fuse was a little corroded and the wire was not frayed, I taped up the wire anyway and also replaced the fuse and still no luck. Any idea what it could be? I'm thinking its the actuator because on startup, the left valve opens and closes fine while the right doesn't move at all. Do you know if I could maybe remove the actuators with the car on the ground and try switching the right actuator the left to test if it works or do you recommend another method? Thanks.
@@Luke-t5l9f You don't have to test it anymore. If one is opening and the other isn't it's a stuck/bad actuator. My fix would only work IF the wires were frayed which is very common. That said that isn't the only issue. When you pulled the fuse you broke the circuit so the light went out, once you tried opening the valves it came back again because the actuator is stuck/bad. I have heard that you can free them up. If you car is still under warranty Ford should replace it IF it isn't you will need another one to repair it. I would drop the muffler as that would be much easier to replace that way. Here's a link to a forum that should be helpful. www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-active-exhaust-install-guide.101913/
Tony, I'm having this exact same problem with my active exhaust. Just started yesterday. You were able to fix it without having to lower the exhaust is that correct? Also do you know something that could be used as a replacement for the silicone? because I don't want to pay the mechanic shop 2 hours of labor while it sets there drying.
You seriously can correct this without a mechanic. It's snap in wire connector on the passenger side. You don't have to lift the car that just makes it easier. The connector is behind the muffler but it front of the tip. You pop the white retainer back, pull the wire, tape up the short, bend the bracket just a bit, and use a zip tie to pull the harness away from the frame and give it a bit of clearance. I used the silicone because it's a good insulator and to keep moisture out. You should be able to do the entire job in 10 minutes if you take your time.
Had the same issue, car only had about 1,500 miles. Passenger harness was rubbing on part of body sheet metal. Ground out some of the metal, sprayed some paint on there and wrapped some tape on the harness. It did it to me twice when I drove a little spirited. Come on Ford, should have done better than this.
You would think they would have squared it away over the years but nope it continued through S550 production. I have yet to look at an S650 but I wouldn't be surprised.
Got a 2020 gt500 and get the warning every now and then on my dash, checked the fuse and it’s good and checked the clearance on the frame from sensor and definitely no contact, could it be my actuators or harnesses ?
I have had several people report bad actuators in the comments section. The harness wearing through will blow a fuse so if the fuse and harness are good it might be the actuator and it could be either side. You can video them with your phone to see which one is hanging up. Best of luck!
Same issue with mine! Bull butter if you ask me, what a complete fail on @fords design. Was curious to, if I was able to keep it in Track mode then pull the fuse it should stay in track correct?? 🤔
I used what I had laying around. It was a clear generic and I used that just to insulant the wires. The key is to get the harness not to rub. I bent the bracket slightly and used zip ties to pull it clear of the frame.
passenger side, top. behind the muffler and ahead of the exhaust tip. I show you in the video. where i jam my hand up in. Sorry the camera wouldn't fit.
I have a active exhaust on my mustang. I want to get a mbrp axel back. Ik once I put that on I will lose the active value feature. But once I lose that’ll feature can I get it back with the stock mufflers or anything?
Hey tony. Im going to pull my harness off to check it but im not clear on how it comes apart. Do you press the white tab down then pull it apart or does the tab slide out from the harness?
Hi Brian. I used the stubby flat head screwdriver on the lip of the white tab and pushed it back. It's lock for the harness. Once it's free the harness pulls out easily. Thanks for watching and best of luck!
IF it went away & you physically saw a short in the wiring harness you may not have moved it far enough away from the frame. Question 1: was the fuse blown? IF so that is indeed your issue. Question 2: did you move the harness and then add something to the harness to keep it from grounding out a second time?
Can I just tape up the whole thing around the wires? It may touch the frame still but it’ll have the tape blocking it. Would that also stop it from shorting just from putting tape around it?
l think it would wear thought the tape eventually. I used the silicon as an insulator because the wire covering worn through and zip tied it up so I wouldn't have the problem come back. It been 7,000 miles and no issues. The best thing is to move it away from the frame and zip tie it up. Best of luck.
@@TonysFordsandMustangs thanks for the reply. One more question how did you get the harness out? I pulled the white tab out but it’s not coming loose. Do I have to push on something or squeeze soemthing else for it to come out?
@@randys_mach1 I used a stubby screw driver on the white tab to push it out. It moves a bit but may not be all the way out. That would be my guess based on what you are telling me.
I didn't scan for an error code since this was the second time I have seen this in 2 years. Check you harness and the fuse ASAP. If the fuse is blown the harness is most likely worn through
I use a stubby screwdriver to push the clip out of place and it does take some effort to get it fully out. You need to pull the harness down so you can see just how bad it is. IF the wires are only slightly frayed you can as I did and patch it up and secure it so it's away from the frame. If they are worn through you may need new harness and Ford should warranty that depending on how old your car is.
@Tony's Fords and Mustangs thanks for getting back to me. The wires are cut through. I wanted to buy a new harness and put it in myself. Just having problems with that plug. I can slide the white clip forward but can't seem to get the plug out. Maybe some lubricant. Thanks again.
@@juliofsb8 That clip has to have an audible click in order to remove it. It will slide a bit before it clicks. Since it's trash anyway get a good flat head screw on it and smack it with a hammer. The other news is there is another clip on the other side of the harness. Maybe try that one first as it's easier to see and will give you an idea of what you are working with. Best of luck!
Question for you have you seen or heard of when I put my mufflers back on after powder coat and hooked active back up I only have quite and track if put in normal its wide open like in track mode I've tried to re clock the actuators and keep having same issue
I have not heard of that issue. I have yet to hear of anyone powder coating their mufflers. If I had to guess, I would look at the powder coating as part your problem. If the mounting area of the valve is coated that would add few millimeters of thickness to the mounting surface and might be causing the valves to hang up. That would be my guess. Best of luck and let me know the issue when you get this worked out. If they are opening they have power so it's not connected to the harness.
@@TonysFordsandMustangs yeah the coating isn't interfering with the actuators my guy was meticulous with protecting the valves. They move freely and easy thanks for the quick, reply
Hey Tony off topic but I want more HP so I’m thinking of going with a whipple for my 21 mach 1. However scared about warranty issues. Is there anything that ford would install or certified shop would install that doesn’t effect warranty? Secondly, warranty issues or not would you install another form of supercharger/turbo? I definitely don’t want to go with the wrong item. I’m trying to get 700whp. Obviously gt500 has this already but I figured I could do the same thing but much cheaper with the mach 1.
Thank you for watching and you would have to reach out to your dealer. From what I have been told over the years a Roush Super Charger kit would not void your power train warranty and after checking their website that still seems to the case as long as it is installed by a Roush dealer. I know there used to be issues getting the cars tuned afterwards. In the past it required the mailing of your ECU to Roush who would tune it and send it back to installer. (That process took a few weeks and may have changed) The next thing that would concern me is the next weak point on the car. That being the rear axles and the rear suspension. You might want to look into beefing that up as well before you head down that road. Still if you get all that done you would still be well below the cost of what a GT500 is bringing if you can even find one. Best of luck!
@@TonysFordsandMustangs man thank you so much for this response! I will definitely look into the roushe option!! Love your videos and install help. Keep up the great work!!! New sub here!!!
Hey Tony The harness routing on my '21 GT appeared identical between the two sides (although I wasn't looking for differences). Are you saying that, on yours, one plugged into the rear side of the valve and the other plugged into the front side of the valve?
If you have the OEM exhaust they won't be pointed in the same direction on the valve itself. They are the same part # so they have to point in different directions. The drivers side point towards the front of the car and the passenger side points to the rear. That's way you only need worry about the passenger side rubbing and shorting out. You need to look on top of the exhaust passenger side so you can see where the wire is running.
@@TonysFordsandMustangs - Both of mine have the plug facing the same direction (harness comes out of the valve to the rear of the vehicle on both sides). I wonder if this is only an issue on the Mach 1, which has a different rear valence design and possibly different packaging for the active exhaust harness as a result.
@@crankcase1733 Did you buy this new? It doesn't sound like a FORD OEM active exhaust. All of the GT350's and GT's and Mach 1's with the FORD EOM exhaust have this issue.
@@TonysFordsandMustangs - Yes, I bought this new in 2021. Maybe the design was changed on the GTs at one point. I'm gonna get under my car and see if the valves have different part numbers. I'll let you know what I find.
I never ran a scanner to check the code. It should take you all of 5 minutes to check and see if the fuse is blown and if it is check the passenger side harness. If it's frayed then yes it will fix the issue. If it's worn through you need another harness. Those valves can fail but it's rare. Best of luck!
So I installed it yesterday, I disconnected the harness prior to cutting anything and covered the harness with a towel on both sides that way if I had to jerk the mid pipes I wouldn’t hit the frame and caused a shortgage. Came out great, can tell the difference for sure especially in Sport +, raspy aggressive sound!
I’m still wondering why you traded in a bad ass boss 302 for a mach1. The only engine that I’d say would be better than a boss 302 Road Runner Would be the predator engine in the new GT500. That road runner engine can handle 1000 hp without a problem and that’s not even opening up anything in that engine. If you put a TVS or a Whipple on that boss 302 that thing is unstoppable and that engine would never break down. I just don’t see why you downgraded. The 2012 and 2013 boss 302 is among one of the best vehicles that Ford has ever made because of that engine. The Mach 1 Is a good looking car but it’s just a GT with a little bit more horsepower and suspension mods. I’m not talking shit I’m just wondering why you would do that?
I really use my car as a touring car with some track time here and there. There was nothing wrong with my Boss but it had 42K on it. Also I have a 1970 Mach 1 so having two Mach 1's was attractive to me. As for comfortable cruising the Mach 1 is better in many, many ways. The Boss was better in a straight line for sure (Solid rear Axle) but the Mach handles slightly better on track than the Boss and that's the truth. They are both great cars with the Boss being better at some things and the Mach 1 at others. I didn't plan on super charger for either so that wasn't a factor for me.
It probably handles better because of the IRS instead of the solid axle. But I am happy for you if that’s the choice you made. I recently got a 2014 Shelby GT500 with one previous owner and 4000 miles on the dash and there was also a Mach1 on the showroom floor and that thing was beautiful. I absolutely love the wheels on that thing. It is a very good looking attractive car and from what I heard it is an awesome road course car. Does that thing come with Magna Ride? My GT500 came with the SVT performance package which came with the adjustable Bilstein shocks And I can absolutely feel the difference. That would be pretty cool if your car came with the magna ride suspension
@@sylvesterstallone8637 Yes they come standard with magnaride and that's one of the really big reasons for it being more comfortable. The IRS makes it a bit more stable. The Boss would hop out once in in a corner with less than smooth pavement. Not drastic but a bit. The Boss is lighter car and more raw. It's needs pointed a bit more than the Mach 1. Power wise it's very close with a slight edge to the Boss because it's lighter. I will have the Mach 1 at that level shortly I'm sure. A 2014 GT500 is a totally different car altogether. The only knock on those cars is the transmission gearing which is quite high. I might look at 4.11's as a final rear gear ratio for one of those cars and call it a day. Everything else is there and for god sakes drive that car and enjoy it as the last owner didn't.
I have heard of a few folk's having stuck valves. That could be either side. If the car is under warranty I would take it to the dealer. If it isn't I would start with a test light on the harness for the valve and see if you are getting power at the valve itself. If you are getting power there that rules everything else out excluding the valve. The valve might be stuck and they are not cheap. If it were mine and it were stuck I might be tempted to pry it open and see if I could free it. Best of luck and let me know.
@@TonysFordsandMustangs well it’s probably the actuator and I’m sure Ford won’t cover it , and the exhaust tip with the actuator is actually welded , not clamped , to the muffler . 😐
