You appear to have a unique gift. An ability to address complex issues and offer solutions without dumbing down the content. Please stay the course and do more videos. There is a critical need for what you do so well. Thank You!
"If you can keep your credit score rating above your ISO, you're doing pretty good." As both a REALTOR & a filmmaker, that may be the simplest, and best advice I've ever heard! 👍👍
This was so super clear. I am a total beginner and really appreciate how you managed to explain the subject by building on the complexity. Great work Brad.
Love it short and too the point. Upskilling for new gear and new project so short on time!! cheers great work practical simple demo. Nice warm vocal tone and clear and crisp diction. I have autism so super clear awesome.!
This was THE best video to explain the histogram I’ve found while I was searching. It ALL made sense while you were separating each aspect. Bra-fuckin-vo. Sub’d and looking forward to learning more from you.
Gosh, this video is ultra-mega-helpful! And your talk style...like i've got some advices from my best friend! Thanks a lot for this video! Please make some more!
So well done. I watched your zebra explanation as well. You explain well and I actually didn't get lost like I do on many other videos. That's probably more on me since I am fairly new to filming, but yours are just what I needed. Definitely subscribed. Thank you.
Thank you really nice of you to say, if I had a a6400 I would, but I am thinking about getting a smaller aps-c Sony to go along with my current cameras, so if I do, that should be pretty comparable!
Glad to help! I find zebras are a bit easier to manage than histograms so if your camera has that, try that out. I have a video on that as well if you need some help!
I find lighting the most overlooked asset with newbee's like me. I recently broke my bank to fix this and boy am I glad I did. Diffusers, Grid screen filters, color adjusting LED spots with grided guidance makes for LIGHT work load on camera settings. What's needed more of is my brain, logic wisdom and experience when mobile and no lighting gadgets found in a studio, all you have is your eye, knowledge and experience and maybe a lens filter or two. My biggest photo problem is the PEBCAG virus. Problem Exists Between Camera And Ground.
Ha yeah for sure, "user error" is a common phrase for me... But I agree lighting is probably the toughest thing to get consistently right, there are lots of different lighting environments and frequently changing variables... It's fun!
The best video I've seen thus far for the Sony A7Siii using the histogram!!! Can't wait for more content!!! Would love to see an example using the settings on the Sony A7Siii for blue hour and gold hour for video landscape.
@@BradGiannini That would be amazing. I get stuck trying to decide if I should change my ISO or Apeture for the correct exposure. And is there even a thing as "correct exposure"? Anyways thanks again for the video.
@@vogters12345 Yeah it can be confusing - no there's no "correct exposure" really, because there's a lot of artistic freedom, but keeping the image from being too bright or too dark is generally a good idea. As far as ISO or aperture, if you want to maintain a blurry background you want to adjust ISO, but if you change ISO too much it can really degrade your image, so it's a fun game of finding the right balance. I would test the limits of your cameras usable ISO range and then keep it within there, and if it's still too dark, then aperture will be your only option. Hope that helps!
Awesome explanation and loved the distinction between background and foreground exposure. But what about when the key light is also brightening up the background?
Hey thanks! Well if your key is heavily hitting the background it's going to be hard to separate everything - if that's intentional then that's okay, otherwise depending on your light putting a grid on will help. As for exposure, I would still start with background practicals and lights but you may have to turn the key on as well and do both at the same time. Hope that helps!
@@BradGiannini That's very helpful, thanks! I am working with just budget gear to begin with, that is putting some constraints on it. But I might still be able to put this to good use :-)
Yeah... those steps works in the studio where you can adjust the lighting. Most of the videography happens outdoors. And you have only ND filter for controlling.
Hi Brad! Thank you for the video. I've been getting super grainy footage/lots of noise. Do you by chance know how I can fix it using the historgram or zebra?
Hi - well most likely you're underexposed. I'm not sure what camera / settings you're using, but yeah if you keep the histogram closer to the right (a bit like the thumbnail picture of this video), you should be able to avoid most grain/noise. A common trick people use to avoid noise is to slightly overexpose footage and then bring the levels down with an editing software. If you let me know what camera / settings you're using, I'd be happy to help more!
@@BradGiannini Thank you, Brad! I am using the Sony A7C II I just got recently. I am shooting in picture profile 11 with Slog 3 & S-cine tone. I’ve been messing around with the histogram and zebra but still not super confident with my footage. Is there a recommended setting you could share for this? :)
Great camera! So I know some people recommend it, but in my experience using S-Cinetone color with S-Log 3 produces some weird blocky looking stuff. I personally think either S-Cinetone gamma with S-Cinetone color or S-Log 3 with S-gamut3.cine color is the way to go. But that aside, I would probably recommend using zebras. I have a video about it that may help. But I would probably either set the zebras for your face or if you really want to make sure you avoid noise, set them just below you blow out / overexpose your footage, and then bring it back down in your editor. A lot of people will overexpose using the camera meter to +1.3 or +1.7, and that can work but it's not terribly reliable. It's counterintuitive, but the darker your scene, the more you want to overexpose it to avoid the noise. I hope that helps! @@linangoclan
Really hard to say because it depends on your camera settings and the strength of your key light. I usually keep my a7siii at 640 ISO and at 1.8 aperture. My key light is the aputure c300d ii with a large soft box and I set my light at only 6%. Obviously this light is major overkill, but hopefully that gives you an idea!
Thanks a lot! Well there's a little noise but it's not too bad, this scene was bright enough to get away with it I think, but everyone's tolerance for noise is a little different! I've found with the newer Sony cameras you generally don't need to overexpose unless it's a really dark scene like night time outside, in which case it does help. I started out over exposing everything but now my favorite is only around a third of a stop over in ample lighting. This was a general guide for any profile, I made a video specifically about low light for really dark scenes with the a7s3, you should check it out!
I’m kind of confused I’m new to video aspect I’m a photographer. So, it looks like you are shooting 24fps but can still control your ship speed? I thought that the 24fps is the shutter speed?
Do you mean shutter speed? 24fps is the frame rate, which is separate from shutter speed. For video you can pick a frame rate (like 24), and then adjust 3 separate things to control exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. In this video I chose 24fps and 1/50 shutter speed. Does that help?
I tried looking up my camera's native ISO and all it gave me was maximum and minimum, nothing that gives me the "best exposure" like you suggested. What am I doing wrong?
Which camera is it? In this case most likely your "best" ISO will be the minimum. Assuming you have enough light for it, that will probably give you the best result. Does that help?
