Quick tip for anyone working with Eternabond tape - once you've removed their miserable to remove protective, put it on a piece of parchment paper to maneuver it around. You can fold it and pull it loose and it won't stick at all to the Eternabond tape (and save a lot of frustration in the process)
On your basement latches they are supposed to be a gasket and they are not thick.(paper thin gasket) I was told by a dealership to run a bead of caulk around the latch to seal them up. No problems with the latches once I did that.
I see lots of good suggestions here. We used pool noodles. They are inexpensive, available everywhere come in a wide variety of colors. It wasn’t actually a pool noodle that we used, but some pipe insulation from Home Depot. I wanted black because I wanted to be as inconspicuous as possible
The only thing I would suggest if you're going to use some kind of insulation on either side of the dryer is to remove it when in use because of possible airflow problems and heat build-up. Please keep up the great job you guys are doing.
For our washer and dryer I pulled it out and ratchet strapped them together, slid it back in. No problems. We have since graduated to an all in one unit since we downsized the rig.
Look for "Air Wedge Bag Bump" air wedges used for leveling. That will let you dial in the side pressure to keep it from rocking while providing some give. Also very light and quickly removable.
I have a 2018 Arctic Fox fifth wheel. I drive 15k miles last year including a trip through Canada to Alaska. I haven’t had any trim issues or slam latch problems. In fact I haven’t had a single problem with my RV. I went and bought the Dewalt air compressor after watching your last video. Thanks for the tip, this is a fantastic suggestion.
Love how you fix stuff yourself instead of bringing everything to the dealer. I fix everything myself as well. It’s not hard, you just have to be a little creative. Bravo!
We fought that washer/dryer for about a year. We tried everything. We did exactly what you did with screwing them together, that didn't work for us either, screws broke. Our final fix was putting in a shelf between them. Never again will we have them sit on top of each other. No problems since. I hope your fix works.
Sadly RVs are built cheap. Most of the time the cabinets are made of mds with staples in them. Wish the rv industry. Would focus on quality more now. Nice job on the repairs today! Have a great day!
Chad, something I learned about the Splendid washer you have. If you wipe the inside of the bottom rubber gasket after each wash and leave the door open so it can dry properly you wont get that discoloring and possible mold staining on the gasket,
Hobby Lobby has pillow foam in different sizes and thickness you can probably use. We got the 3 inch thickness squares to shove up in the kitchen and bathroom vents for winter temps it kept the RV much warmer this past winter.
I had the opposite problem on my brand new Brinkley. One latch on the rear storage door would not release. When you lifted the handle you could feel the latch move then all of the sudden in would snap closed before the door could be opened. I had to force the door open (luckily w/o damaging anything) and opened the latch to find that when lifting the handle the mechanism that lifts the latching "bar" was slipping off the cam that connects to the handle, simply because the screw that held the latching bar to the cam was loose. By simply tightening it it worked fine. The annoyance is that when it fails the compartment door latch locks "closed."
Appreciate you’re videos. I watched another video on resealing edge of roof and gutters and the person mentioned using a small piece foil hvac tape for gutter seams. Our 2005 fleetwood had foil tape and looked like silicone underneath. I put a little dab of silicone and then foil tape.
On the dryer I would be concerned about blocking the air flow into the dryer with insulation on the sides. Maybe have it in there when you travel and take it out when you're going to run the dryer. What you did on the gutter seal looks good. I would have tried Flex Seal.
Another idea for the rust on the lock... Boeshield makes a rust and stain remover that could maybe help with the rust on the slam latches. Then add some grease or lube as a protectant.
I love that my 24-year-old Monaco dynasty has drain tubes for the condensation from the ACs that run it all the way down underneath the couch. No Mas and I still haven’t had any problem with my bay door latches except for cleaning and moving them without having to take anything apart, and I do full-time in my motorhome. Thank you for another informative video.
Just a thought. Try putting/wedging a couple 3’ tubes of fiberglass pipe insulation vertically alongside the machine’s. Has better heat/fire resistance & will allow vertical ventilation. Great tips & ideas! Thanks for sharing your experiences 👍🏼
Thank you for the slam latch lube idea. Mine were doing the same thing. I put a little marine grease on each side of that lever part you greased - hoping it will be resistant to the water that gets in there.
Same problem with the latches and my fix was the same as yours. Though I did add sealant around the top and sides. Plus along the hinge at the top to stop water from getting inside the door itself. For my drip rail I used Lexel. It sticks better and is more elastic than silicon.
For the gutter use a rubber sealant spray like Flex Seal, you like Gorilla brand products , they have one Gorilla Waterproof Patch and Seal Spray. My experience is the products are very thin and would require several coats. I used Rust-Oleum brand on my house gutters.
Our stackable washer/dryer unit came screwed together similar to what you did but we find that there is room on both sides that not only does it move while travelling the whole unit shakes a lot during the spin cycle. We have fixed that by putting pool noodles on both sides of the units. if not enough room you can cut them in half to fit.
Chad, do you come up with some of these ideas while lying awake at night, during long drives on moving days? They seem to have been through a bit of mind cooking - some ruminating if you willl. They're not half-baked; they're well reasoned. Love these videos. Hi five!
What we found works best for us is: M-D 3-1/2-ft x 1-1/4-in Gray A/C Foam Air Conditioner Weatherstrip from Lowe’s! Hubby put this in between the wall and the washer/ dryer on both sides and this stopped the movement and worked great because it’s flexible yet cushioning.
These things all have problems, whatever the price point, and *so* many new RVers let that frustrate them to the point of seeming to hate their rigs. IMO, just making your own fixes is usually the right answer, along with sometimes bringing in the pros, but in either case, accepting that things will happen. We haven't had interior trim fail (yet) in 3 years of full-time, but at one stop I noticed that one exterior trim piece was missing, and the one just like it on the other side had a screw missing, another almost out. Early on, we had a storage bay latch fail, to where we could not open that door. Luckily, it was a pass-through, so I went in from the other side and got it open. The part the handle moves is supposed to slide against another part, but had gone past it (if that makes sense), leaving no way to open from the outside. I did something to make it not likely to happen again, but I forget what. Probably bent some metal. We've had the same problem with a seam in the gutter, and I've resealed with silicone, but that didn't last. I think I'll try the tape solution. We had a leak in our roof from the beginning, and it only showed up in the heaviest storms. It was hard to track to the source, but we found the roof has a "low" spot that makes a puddle form, right next to our skylight for the bathroom. When the puddle got deep enough, the top reached a point where the sealant wasn't good enough. It would then follow wiring to reach one or another light fixture in the ceiling (living room or bedroom, depending on the tilt of the rig), fill that, and drip. Once I realized the source, I added plenty of sealant on both sides of the "bad" seal, and it's been good since. As the great western philosopher Roseannadanna liked to say, it's always something. We even had a roof leak on the truck, which a couple of dealers tried to fix but failed. Turned out to be a light/camera fixture that wasn't well enough sealed. As for the bad roads, when we started, we took your advice and didn't bolt down our wheel dock. Mostly, that was fine, the bike was strapped down front and back. But some roads were so bad, the whole front, dock and all, was able to slide sideways a little, not good. So I securely attached the dock, which in ours is in a dedicated mini-garage, so no problem having it always there. I heard that there are plans to one day pave I-20 through Shreveport. Our dryer is well secured, but our residential fridge wasn't, and we kept having to adjust it after rough moves, until the factory guys heard that it moved, and said it shouldn't. So they fixed that for us. I think something similar is going on with our dishwasher, as it seems to be canted a little sometimes. I suspect there's a bracket for your dryer that either wasn't attached properly, or wasn't installed at all.
For the gutter, I used caulking only, and it stuck on pretty well. For the Lippert basement door handles, same issue as yours where rust appeared early on, needed to be greased and saw that the handles end up "catching" a lot of rain water, enough that when you open the basement door (lifting it up), as the handle is now upside down, that residual caught up water runs down the door and the open basement area, needs to be cleanned often.
Before going on the road we had an upholstery shop. Next time you are around a Joann’s Fabric they have an assortment of different foams that will help you
In our 390RKR with the washer dryer I actually pulled the out half way and blocked up the front to be level. Then used two pices 1/4" steel 8 inch long and 2 inches wide and drilled for four bolts on the washer and four on the dryer. Marked them out on the appliances and drilled the appliances and installed threaded rivit nuts 1/4 x 20. Then used bolts and loctite blue to fasten together. I was worried the self tappers would eventually work their way free. We now have a 399TH with washer dryer in the garage and I sure prefer that.
Chad I would use a piece of the foam from an old mattress topper not only do they have the density you need they also work well with double-face tape. Give it a try I think you'll be very happy with the results. Also, it's nice to see you guys back on the road again and your fixing stuff I'm so tired of a lot of the other channels on the frame flex soap box.
I want to reiterate what Chad said about our American highways - they are CR*P! We are on month two of a three month trip, filling in the last four states of the lower 48 on the map on the side of our RV. In particular, the bridge abutments are generally awful. This trip our 2018 RV suffered a broken leaf spring, no doubt due to the horrible conditions of the roads. In addition, several trim pieces fell down. Our rig had 30K miles on it before the start of this trip. With that many miles you would think that the “shakedown phase” would be over. Not with the state of our highways!
The Splendide stackable pair we have, the dryer screws down (or has a latching bracket, can't remember offhand) to the washer. We have ours under the "attic" in the garage (399TH). We also have floor brakckets. Even before I put a cabinet between the top of the dryer and the garage side floor of the "attic", we never had that thing move.
The actual top panel if the washer has come off. The dryer sets on top of a plate that latches in to a slit on the dryer. The whole top of the washer has come loose. Clever temporary fix you have done there. But the dryer needs to come out and the washer top repaired.
Nice fixes. Pool noodles or pipe insulation pieces might be able to be cut to brace the washer and dryer. They would have some moderate compression and fill the spaces. Just a thought. Happy travels.
I just purchased an LG 2.3 cu combo for my 42ft Fuzion Toy Hauler…was looking for some ideas to reduce the vibration. Although it’s a different issue I stumbled across something that might work for you. Didn’t read through other comments - so not sure if someone has already suggested. During my online search I came across the following that might work for you. Search: Stacking Kit for Washer and Dryer, Universal Washer and Dryer Stacking Kit with Pull Out Drying Rack, Adjustable 29"/28"/27"/26"/25"/24" Stacking Kit with Ratchet Strap.
We have a 2021 382WB - same issue with the door latches. Poor quality, and installation alignment issues also exist on the wetbay door, causing it to pop open while we are driving. Shimmed that one a bit, wire brush and lubing the rest. Had the same issue with washer/dryer. I built a wood platform for the dryer to sit on about an inch above the washer. I don't think the washer is strong enough to hold any weight on top of it when bouncing down the highway., ours was starting to cave in on top.
We have the same seam thing on our Alliance Valor. Gonna have to try your fix. We tried just putting some sealant but it didn’t work. On a side note, that flat earth nasa shirt is awesome! lol
My rain gutter has a seam right above the door…of all places. I’ve tried rain gutter sealer without any long term success. I’ll try the eternabond tape next. Hope it holds up for both of us.
Chad Just ran into same issue with the Basement latch issue on My 23 Solitude 373FB. Going to 1. Let GD know they have an issue and what they suggest. 2. try same fix you did. 3. hopefully find a thin seal to keep it from happening again.
I'd probably flood those door latches with fluid film a couple times a year, that would lubricate and also stop the mechanism from rusting. You can probably sneak a spray straw into the mechanism without taking it apart each time.
We have a 399TH, and that seam is right above the sliding door as you go out onto the side patio. Would love to have you report back in a year about how well the Eternabond worked, long term.
Chad I would remove the dryer then get some aluminum thin wall angle and frame it around the top of the washer anchor down to the washer then place the dryer inside the framed top of the dryer, then screw it good the the aluminum angle maybe like 1-1/4" x 1" x 1/16" making two units as one. But hey your brackets worked also.
It may have already been mentioned, but what about instapac expanding foam package bags? They form to whatever shape you have and take up space. Maybe put it along the top edge so it will form a “L” shape over the top edge to keep it from sliding down the side.
Another great project (that I did), I ended up doing.... after a time, the washer and the dryer began to squeak. Bad. I've solved most by being able to replace the bearings on the dryer. I could NEVER get the bearings off the washer motor. I destroyed two bearing pullers trying to get them apart. They are ON there.
Have you considered Rockwool insulation board on each side of the washer/dryer? It’s stiff enough, it won’t fall apart and it’s not flammable and you can cut it to size. Just a thought.
I use Anti-seeze with moly...kinda like pipe dope...Car guys like me that live here in the rust belt love this stuff! We use it if we think we will ever have to take that blasted rusty $$%%&*! apart ever again! Worked great on those latch's!
Our Splendide washer, when rinsing moves quite a bit. I’m not sure I’d want that more securely “attached” to the walls. I’d be concerned about damage to the walls, and shaking the “house” during the spin cycle. Also, Splendide makes a bracket to mount the dryer to the top of the washer, but that tight fit in the closet might make it difficult to use.
The eternabond didn't work on my gutter seam, but I hope yours holds! My latest fix for it is 2 part epoxy in there (tape on the bottom until the epoxy set), which seems to be holding.
Chad...put a plastic bag in between the washer/dryer and the wall on both sides and spray expanding closed cell foam in the bags. Close the bag. As the foam expands in the bag it will fill the space between the W/D and the wall when it sets.
My Boss at Work call's that "Picking Fly Shit out of Chocolate" :) You could try Fasnal are Napa Auto for good Hardware, and I would consider using a Strap/Winch Sys. for the W/D. Great Job Chad 👍🕊
@@ChangingLanes Self installed ours last July (replaced Whirlpool) and it's been rock solid in the back of our 38' Class A. I'll check it before our next trip!
One of my gutter seams is doing the exact same thing. I'll be addressing that issue when it gets a little warmer. Thanks for the tip. The gutter on the utility side is a different story. It wasn't installed level with the roof and therefore has a low spot where the water pools, then overflows on top of our slider topper, then puddles and drains...usually when I'm standing underneath it. Not sure how I'm going to fix that yet. Maybe do some sort of a build up for the outer rail.🤷♂ For the dryer sides, I might suggest one of those really thick foam kneeling pads; maybe even doubling it up if needed. Thanks again for all your videos. Bravo Zulu.
