Thank you Dianne for sharing so generously your artistic skills. My question: I plan to begin my 36 x 40" under painting, prepping my canvas lightly ( oil and Gamsol ) for paint to meet the surface well. Would it be better to prep just areas I am to work on that session, rather than all over, given it might be a couple of months work to go. Anxious to hear from you. Again, your videos are appreciated. Best wishes from Canada. Christine
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction Good morning (smile), thank you for your welcome reply, just one more thing, ought I to dampen the complete canvas at the beginning, or dampen only in the sections as I paint, given a couple months window to completion and wondered if canvas would keep drying out? Very grateful to have watched your "Mother Color" video. Thank you!!
@@mona2242 Hi Mona, I am no expert, however Dianne apparently goes 50/50 with her mixture, as would I when using pure oil colors. If you really want less toxicity try water soluable/mixable oil paints by Winsor Newton, or Grumbacher (Max) Cobra etc. Check out on Google. Good luck.
In context to this video I had realised recently that if I want to use lighter value of same colour and the base layer on canvas is thicker....I jump the value scale bit higher and then put that on the base layer...that way if this paint smudges with base layer it comes down to lower value scale. Is this true?
You're asking for a list. Everything I teach in these Quick Tips is important to realistic painting. Why not go to the list on our channel page under Community in the menu - ru-vid.com/show-UCJErPSUwVOXzRYDC4kWejnw - and choose from among the list.
Thank you so very much. The confidence you build in me for painting is immeasurable. I think I can say that of the many viewers out there. Thanks again, Dianne.
I absolutely love all your quick tips. I inform all my friends who are artists! Off the subject here but the one, that I’m really using in everyone of my studies is Mother Color! This is great! As always. Thanks Dianne. You’re the BEST!
I had never heard of these terms, except for grisaille. I could follow your explanation, and I'm led to believe that the indirect approach would make it easier to work areas that you did not want to blend. Still I want to ask, is the choice of methods primarily based on the painter's choice of style and interpretation, no matter what the subject? When you look at a finished painting, is the difference distinguishable? I'm grappling with what one considers in choosing the method, besides time. Thanks for your consideration and valuable work as an educator. Blessings.
Whether the artist chooses a direct or indirect approach is a matter of preference, no matter their style. Many paintings that appear more spontaneous were done over a period of time using a combination of techniques. The direct method is most valuable in plein air painting because the time between the sun's position is short, about two hours. It might help to give you clarity if you distinguish between style and technique. Style is the artist's mode of expression whereas technique is the mechanics of how that gets done.
This so helpful. I have never had an art teacher able to explain HOW to use oil paint or the process as clearly as u have. I’ve been shooting in the dark for a while. Thank U.
Really appreciated this quick tip. But I do have one question though. Did or didn’t you use solvent with your first layer, ie, blocking in the values? Or did you use linseed oil? The paint seemed to glide quite smoothly. Thank you!
The only time I use solvent is when setting up the notan. I do not mix mediums in my paint while working. I use only brands that come in a creamy consistency, such as Gamblin and Rembrandt.
Hello Ms. Mize, I have been watching a lot of your videos and have become a big fan. I was wondering if you could expand a bit more on painting over wet paint in another quick tip. I watch another channel called The Paint Coach, he says that the key is using thicker paint over thinner paint (that being paint with less mineral spirits over paint with more spirits). However in this video you seem to be able to paint wet paint over wet paint with no solvent at all in either layer. I would love to see a video focused on that subject specifically. I apologize if this question seems redundant, this is just a particularly confusing topic for me. Thank you very much for all of your videos.
Thanks for the request Richard. I will put it on our schedule, but since we film these several weeks in advance, it will be at least June before it appears on RU-vid. Meanwhile, conservators advise painters not to thin their paint with mineral spirits alone because, being a solvent, it breaks down the integrity of the paint. Whenever we "thin" paint, it is best to use either a formulated medium or a mixture of solvent, a good oil and a dryer.
I enjoy your videos very much. One area that I would like to see a video about would be: how to work safely with oils. What do you do with paper/ towels that have oil or turpentine (disposal)? Do you put them into a special container with water? How concerned should a painter be? Do you always have a window open even during winter? It would be great to see how you take care of these issues.
Perhaps I do need to make a Quick Tip on this subject as I've had several questions like yours. I've been working with oils since 1961. They are not the hazard some folks make them out to be. (1) The binder in most oil paints is linseed oil, a plant-based oil, no more volatile than the vegetable oils we cook with. (2) When refined mineral spirits is used as the solvent, paper towels can be disposed of loosely in an open container. The mineral spirits evaporates quickly, so there is no danger so long as the container is not closed and not kept in temperatures above the flashpoint which is around 100 F. (3) As with working with any solvent, working in a well ventilated space such as a large open room or a small space with an exhaust fan keeps you safe. (4) Keeping a window open in the winter is not necessary when working in a large open space.
i karolus I would definitely benefit from this too. Moreover , what is the least toxic solvent one can buy? I am very sensitive to odourless mineral spirits .
sujanith tottempudi thanks, but how about cleaning our brushes? Difficult to paint with an open patio door in -20 c. I’m seriously thinking about acrylics, don’t like the paint but don’t want to fall sick.
Just discovered your channel today and you have so many great tips that are helping with my homework for school💛 Love watching your videos while I paint!
Hi Dianne, I have tried many times but cannot create the way monet creates sunlight , my version does not glow like his does, i also think his paint is more vibrant.. Kindly Help...
My practice is to premix value lines of the major colors I choose for the initial color scheme. Beyond that, I think I have more freedom to mix from this line as I go because once we start exploring our reference, we will discover color variations we did not see initially.
Hi Diane. Thank you for your helpful tips. I am having trouble choosing some new brushes. They are expensive and I would like your opinion. I paint as you showed today, and I really liked the brush you used. It kept its edge and looked soft enough for direct painting in oils. Could you please tell me what brand (and series) of brush you use? It would help me so much. Thank you 🙏🏻 .
My main workhorse for doing these Quick Tips is the Rosemary 274 series. They are a bit pricy, but well worth it and will last and keep their shape for a long time.
SIGH ...Quick tip: since the questioner clearly knows the concept, why doesn't s/he simply try picking up a brush with paint on it and figure at least some of it out, instead of issuing detailed commands to Mrs. Mize so they can continue to sit back and NOT learn by doing?
Let's be a bit more gentle. One of my major roles here is to answer questions, hoping my answers will stimulate the desire to practice the techniques and concepts.
I have an old oil painting I never finished from over a year ago. What's the proper way to start back up with it? It has a few sunken spots and the oil is very dry. Do I just start painting on it again or do I need to wipe some kind of medium to prep the surface? If so, what kind? Linseed oil? Liquin?
First, lay it flat, then using a lint-free cloth such as a gauze pad soaked with rubbing alcohol, thoroughly clean it. Allow to thoroughly dry. Then, use a 50/50 mixture of refined mineral spirits and refined linseed oil. Pour onto the painting's surface and with a wide brush in a light circular motion, work this into the painting throughout its entire surface. All it to sit for a couple of hours, then using a dry lint-free cloth wipe as much of it off as you can. Test the surface with your fingertips and keep wiping until your fingertips are shiny but not wet. You can now begin to paint on the surface.